Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by DisTech, Dec 13, 2008.
Dude, that's it???? C'mon man, what gives???
Great job so far. Keep it up.
You are going to sell more bikes for Suzuki with this thread. They should send you a check.
Great thread mate , cant wait to see it all together and farkled
THANK YOU SIR, MAY I HAVE ANOTHER!
Show me the money!
Thanks, I should start making better progress once I get the midtube back from the machine shop.
The upper right of the following picture shows the back of the magnesium tip with the P4 sitting in it. The four bolts come through back of the mag tip next to the P4 have a little bit of the P4 to clamp onto. The two bolts away from the P4 do not and when tightened distort the mag tip.
The bolts that come with the M7 for securing the mag tip appear to be anodized aluminum(?!) torx bolts. The second time assembled the end, one of the torx heads stripped. The good thing about aluminum bolts is they are easy to cut a groove into so you can get them out with a standard screw driver.
If you follow the advise from Two Brothers to just bolt the mag tip on, the two bolts that distort the mag tip will eventually crack it like this.
I replaced the aluminum torx bolts with stainless allen head bolts. Two #6 stainless flat washers stacked is about the perfect thickness. Notice I had to file a little flat side on the washers next to the P4 because they wouldn't fit between the P4 and the recessed edge of the end plate.
The gap is bigger but the new mag tip is not distorted and the whole thing feels very solid.
I had said I was becoming irritated with Two Brothers over warranty issues. Here's the story. I called them after the mag tip cracked and they said send them a copy of the receipt and they would replace the tip no problem. I asked if the purchase confirmation from ProCycle would work and they said yes. The next day I get an email back from Two Brothers saying ProCycle is not an authorized dealer (ProCycle is authorized, they are a Tucker Rocky dealer) and they wouldn't honor the warranty because I had purchased from a third party. I was pretty mad at this point. I called Jeff at ProCycle and forwarded him the email. He was very calm and said he would look into it. The next morning Two Brothers called me and asked where to send the new mag tip. ProCycle Jeff, thank you.
Great reading. I'm doing my swingarm and linkage while expecting my shock from Cogent pretty soon. My linkage bearings, 2 of the 3 were shot. (fell apart upon disassembly)
Wahoo! More DR goodness.
Mousitsas, just for a point of info I am using a dr swing arm on a project build which we narrowed quite a bit to fit an old yamaha XS frame. Not to difficult to do since you do not have to much to do. I had to fit a different in my case bushing to match the frame cause we machined quite a bit. there is a picture here in post 81
The bling factor on this thread is over the top
Very nice, I will stay tuned for updates!!
Thanks. I've seen quite a few posts saying what you said about the bearings. The PO must have had mine replaced.
Thanks. Hadn't thought of any of this as bling, but now that you mention it I did pick up my Dakar windscreen today! Held it up next with the Buell headlights and it looks blingtastic!
The DR650 manual lists a couple special tools for getting the damper rod out of the fork tubes:
09940-34520: "T" handle
09940-34592: Attachment "G"
Over in the DR650 thread eldavo references and links the Suzuki DR650 Wiki that explain how to make your own tool. Basically it's a 30mm allen. On the wiki they used a 3/4" bolt that has a 28.3mm head. I found that a nut for a 20mm bolt actually is 30mm. I used that nut a 1/2" bolt, 1/2" nut and a 1/2" nut with the nylon insert. $5 from the hardware store. I used the nut with the nylon insert because the cone shaped end forced the 20mm nut to center.
1/2" nut take a 3/4" socket.
30mm allen nice fit.
The Race Tech Cartridge Emulator instructions for removing the damping rod had me kind of freaked out, "Take the fork off the bike and disassemble them. An air impact and a long Allen socket helps a lot. For stubborn Damping Rod Allen bolts use a drift and beat on the head of the damping rod bolt to jar the threads loose...". Sounds like I'd be using brokentap.com again. I didn't have any problem. Then damper rod allens were tight, but came right out.
We did talk about the "sweet" setup numbers for the emulators, right?
Hi Rick. If we did talk about that, I did not retain of that data. Please refresh me.
Mine appear to have come with the 40lb/in emulator valve springs with 3 turns of preload. They also need the circlips.
For a close tolerance fit.
Way to go on the 30mm nut. I did not have easy access to metric bolts/nuts, so I used the 3/4" bolt and wrote it up. I like your way better. I'll send a note to Bigboy to update the FAQ and Wiki.
Distech: Did you drill the holes in the damper rod? I'd like to see that. Or at least hear about it. I have all the stuff on stand-by waiting for the temps to go up some. It's not gotten out of the teens since last weekend around here.
Thanks. It's a 20mm nut, but the wrench size is 30mm.
Rusty, I'm about to post those pictures and I used your method of using the old seals in place of the special tool to seat the new seals!
If there is a cheap way out, I'll find it. Glad to know someone was able to use that idea.
Your pictures are very helpful. Thanks for doing this. Russ
Once the damper rod bolt was out and the oil drained, I got the tubes apart and then put all the new parts on for this picture (kinda dumb cause they pretty much have to be put on one at a time).
Slide the inner tube in with the inner tube metal on, then tap the outer tube metal down into place. The top of the outer tube metal must be even with that step in the outer tube or the seal will not seat.
The DR650 manual list a special tool for installing the fork seals:
09940-52860: Front fork oil seal installer
Back to the DR650 thread where Rusty Rocket explains how to use the old seals in place of the tool. Cut as much rubber off the outside so the old seal wont get stuck. I cut an inner ring off too.
Greased the new seal up and shoved it in, then slid the old seal on and hit it with the hammer. Have to work your way around because the opposite side will want to spring back out.
Once the new seal is seated...
slide the tube apart and the old seal should come right out.
Slide the dust seal on
and then put the stopper ring back in.
Following Race Tech instructions, drilled the existing holes to 5/16". All the holes are supposed to on a 7/16" spacing, but the existing ones on mine were only 5/16" apart. I still spaced the new ones at 7/16".
As good as to be expected without a drill press.
With a damper rod, emulator, spring, two washers and the tubes fully extended I had 2 1/2" from the top of the washers to the top of the inner tube. The fork cap is 11/16" from the lip to the end. For 1/2" preload I used a tubing cutter to cut the plastic spacer to 2 5/16".
With spacer and washers there is 3/16" to top of tube.
All that fancy math some how made 1/2" preload!
Nice work and great photos! Thanks for sharing. How did your bushings look?