DisTech's DR650 rebuild

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by DisTech, Dec 13, 2008.

  1. DisTech

    DisTech Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2008
    Oddometer:
    658
    Location:
    Seattle
    There she is! $125 from the machine shop. Looks like they used a pretty heavy stainless pipe because they machined it to fit over the larger 1 3/4" Two Brothers midtube and then it steps down but still fits over the 1 5/8" FMF headpipe. The FMF headpipe is a nice tight fit, hopefully no clamp required.
    [​IMG]

    The guy at the machine shop cut off the split reduced section of the midtube but there's still a little choking my fat pipe!
    [​IMG]

    Meet Thor.
    [​IMG]

    Finally, finally, finally! Full diameter to the muffler!
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    Well, I think it looks damn good.
    [​IMG]

    See the weld is on the headpipe right next to the frame? That is really close, I mean it is almost touching. How big of a gap is there supposed to be there? Anyone with a FMF headpipe care to check? LukasM?
    [​IMG]
  2. DisTech

    DisTech Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2008
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    658
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    No problem. Working on the forks is kinda cool because I get two tries for screw ups and pictures, ha!

    Hi Rick. They actually looked pretty good, but they are replaced now anyway.
  3. Whitey1

    Whitey1 Long timer

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    Ohio
    Outstanding write up and detail! The bike looks great and I am drooling to see more updates.
    :clap
  4. DisTech

    DisTech Been here awhile Supporter

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    Thanks. Here come a couple updates.
  5. DisTech

    DisTech Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
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    To put the proper amount of fork oil in the forks the DR650 manual lists yet another special tool:
    • 09943-74111: Fork oil level gauge
    The oil level is supposed to be 6.5" from the top of the tube. I figured I just make a dip stick, but 10wt oil is so thin I couldn't really tell where it was on my improvised stick. What I ended up doing was cutting the stick to 6.5" and looking down the tube and watching for when the end touched the surface of the oil. Pour some oil in, pour some out, until it was just right.
    [​IMG]

    The Moose fork skins come with tiny zip ties that are supposed to secure the bottom end, but they are too short to use on the DR650 fork outer tubes. I bought some much beefier longer ones. Greased up the bearings on the triple tree and put the forks back on.
    [​IMG]
  6. DisTech

    DisTech Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
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    Last night the wife and I picked up dinner at Gorditos in Greenwood. This is HALF of the Burrito Grande!
    [​IMG]
  7. NC Rick

    NC Rick Cogent Dynamics Inc

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    9,251
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    Asheville, NC
    Trade those springs in while you can! :D looks yummy.
  8. DisTech

    DisTech Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2008
    Oddometer:
    658
    Location:
    Seattle
    The ProTaper bar clamps have a ~1/2" bolt and the stock bar clamps use ~3/8". I had to drill the washers on the rubber mounts, but was still able to use them.
    [​IMG]

    Stock speedometer drive.
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    The seal on the Speedometer Drive Eliminator did not want to go down in there.
    [​IMG]

    I think it's time to replace the front brake pads.
    [​IMG]

    She rolls!
    [​IMG]
  9. brucifer

    brucifer Long timer

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    Eureka, Ca.
    Lookin' sweet DisTech! Great job. Excellent documentation. :thumb
  10. Jason Hutchins

    Jason Hutchins Monarch 71

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    Jan 27, 2008
    Oddometer:
    348
    Location:
    Bonbeach, Melbourne's smallest suburb!
    Very Cool

    Keep it coming
  11. Gustavo.Ramos

    Gustavo.Ramos Long timer

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    May 19, 2008
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    1,260
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    Accross the pond
    Hi,

    Looking at your DR rebuilt, very interesting work.

    Does the DR has embossed frame number on the steering column? When you sent the frame to be painted, in the final result it seems there is nothing showing up.

    I'm thinking about going the same way, but with powder coating the numbers will be ilegible.

    Thanks
  12. DisTech

    DisTech Been here awhile Supporter

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    Thanks.

    Thanks.

    Thanks Gustavo. The guys that did the PC were concerned about the same thing. So, they masked the VIN for the silver coat and just coated with clear. Hard to tell from this picture, but you can read it from different angles. I may have to sand it a bit if once I get all the gear on I can't take advantage of all those angles.
    [​IMG]
  13. GODSPEED

    GODSPEED finger lickin' good

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    Port Angeles
    Oh man, give me a Gorditos carne asada quesadilla. :tb


  14. Watson

    Watson Been here awhile

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    Oct 15, 2008
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    879
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    Grayson, GA
    What'd you decide to do for tires?

    I dig this thread, and check it just about everytime I'm on this site. :thumb
  15. YnotJP?

    YnotJP? Long timer

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    Dec 26, 2007
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    Man, you have done a great job, not only the work on the bike, but with the reporting and pictures.

    But, a few pictures of the snow at Greenlake would have been nice.

    Now take the wife down to the North Lake Tavern for pizza.
  16. DisTech

    DisTech Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
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    I'm with you brother.

    Thanks, I went with Dunlop D606's. Your blue 2006 DR650 looks excellent!

    Thanks, how about this one from 45th & Stone Way 7am 12-24-08.
    [​IMG]
    She doesn't like the black olives.
  17. DisTech

    DisTech Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2008
    Oddometer:
    658
    Location:
    Seattle
    The default action of the DR650 kill switch is one click for "kill" and one click for "run". This mod changes the switch to "kill" while you are pressing the button and "run" while you are not. I've seen references to this mod many places, but not in much detail. This is really easy, the switch is held in by one screw and just snaps apart.

    The little brass pin sticking out the side of the red button slides between two positions in the track in the rectangular piece of plastic you can see in the bottom of the switch body.
    [​IMG]

    I've removed the rectangle piece of plastic, the pin and the pin spring. The red button, button spring, copper bridge and bridge spring are back in the switch body and ready for the back with the four contacts to be snapped back on.
    [​IMG]

    Back together.
    [​IMG]
  18. DisTech

    DisTech Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
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    The stock hand guards make the lever pins quite complex. Since I'll be using Acerbis Rally Pro's I replaced each with a stainless #6 allen bolt and aluminum spacer. The spacers had to be drilled and cut to length, the OD was correct but the ID and length were not metric.
    [​IMG]
  19. DisTech

    DisTech Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2008
    Oddometer:
    658
    Location:
    Seattle
    Putting the wiring harness back on and labeling connections as I work my way through the wiring diagram.
    [​IMG]

    More labels.
    [​IMG]

    I thought I was going crazy because there were so many connectors that didn't have connections. But it turns out there are several connectors with no connections. Anyone know what these are? Are they for diagnostics & troubleshooting. Are they for optional equipment?
    [​IMG]
  20. ADV8

    ADV8 Long timer

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    Nov 10, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,609
    Location:
    North of Sydney.
    Excellent reading,i will be interested to see how your fork mods perform.
    I was told not to follow the RT instructions as it can put a spike in the rebound mid stroke so drilled the existing holes larger.
    I set the oil level at 130 mm's with the emulators installed..fwiw...i might take a couple of mm's off the preload spacers but with the new springs it eats big hits and corrugations.
    One real problem is the damper rod end not being square so they need turning and locking until the piston is central or as close to in the tube to avoid excess bypass pass the seal ring.