DIY: 990 ABS Removal

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by Katoom119, Oct 11, 2009.

  1. Katoom119

    Katoom119 Mmmm....Orange Kool-aid

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    First, thanks to inmate DSM8 for actually being the one to figure all this out. He gets the credit, I simply put it into pictures.

    Tools needed:
    6mm socket
    8mm socket
    10mm socket
    14mm socket
    wire cutters

    Parts needed:
    62514068100 Speedo sensor
    60013072000 Rear brake hose for S model
    60113012000 Front brake hose for S model
    60014070100 Instrument cover for S model
    0084040083 x2 Screws for speedo sensor

    My main reason for doing this was I wanted to get rid of the ABS unit and by using the longer lines it'll allow me to easily raise the suspension. It's pretty straight forward as long as you're comfortable disassembling half the motorcycle.

    First steps are to remove the glove box, right tank, and headlight assembly. I'm assuming that everyone knows how to do this, if not there are a few other write-ups that discuss it. Now let's get to know the parts...

    [​IMG]
    This is the ABS wiring harness that connects to the ABS pump. The ABS wiring harness only connects into the main harness in one area, here.

    [​IMG]
    The white plug under the seat. Everything else that connects will either be removed or replaced.

    Now, from the ABS pump the harness runs down the right side of the bike...
    [​IMG]

    Up the frame rail and under the head tube...
    [​IMG]

    And also down under the engine to two 40 amp fuses.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Now that you know where everything is headed, lets go to the top of the bike. Remove the 5 8mm bolts that hold the instruments on...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    and pull the instruments out. There are now 3 8mm bolts that hold the plastic cover on that are hidden by the instruments. Remove these and the cover can be removed. Now using the wires that run off the ABS switch as a reference...
    [​IMG]

    trace it back and find where everything connects. It'll be a black plug with several other wires. The black plug runs to the front ABS sensor and the rest runs back to the harness that we found earlier.

    [​IMG]

    Unplug the black plug and the white plug, the speedo sensor you ordered will plug in here. To remove these, I actually had to cut the plugs off to get them under the head tube. No big deal, leave some extra wire on both sides so you can reconnect them in the future if you so choose. The other side of the black plug runs under the triple clamps down to the front ABS sensor.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The fuses under the engine just pull off a little clip and then the rest of the harness will just pull out. After that's out you've done the hard part. The rest is pretty simple. Just drain all the brake fluid from the brakes. I took a hose, hooked it up to the bleeders, and then used the levers to just pump the fluid out. Then take a 14mm socket, pull all the brake bolts, and then remove the lines. After this, take the brake lines you ordered and install them using the copper washers from the original brake lines.

    The instrument cover needs to have the 2 metal clips on the side transferred over along with the 5 rubber grommets. This will get rid of the ABS switch by using the S instrument cover and will give a nice clean look.

    The speedo sensor screws into the inside of the left fork leg and plugs into the white plug that we unplugged earlier behind the headlight.

    Remove the front ABS ring on the hub because it will hit the new speedo sensor.

    After this everything just bolts back up the way you took it out. Nothing hard, just time consuming.
    #1
    ADV67 likes this.
  2. sonoran

    sonoran bigly Supporter

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    I'm confused... can't you keep the ABS and just get longer brake lines to accommodate the longer suspension?
    #2
  3. Katoom119

    Katoom119 Mmmm....Orange Kool-aid

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    Yeah, but I wanted to nix the ABS.
    #3
  4. 4play

    4play Next?

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    Thanks! I'm considering doing the same.
    I have friends with 950adv's & was disappointed when I took my seat off the 1st time & realized I did not have the underseat storage that they do!
    #4
  5. sonoran

    sonoran bigly Supporter

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    Why?
    #5
  6. 4play

    4play Next?

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    Answering for me, I like the ABS fine for the pavement, offroad it can get you hurt. I have forgotten to turn it off a few times & scared myself.
    I ride moslty offroad, just have to slab it to get there. I always admired how much storage there was under the seat on the 950's & was really disappointed when I removed the seat on the new to me 990 & found barely enough room for the factory tool kit.

    I don't know if I'll do it, but I'm glad to know it's doable
    #6
  7. sonoran

    sonoran bigly Supporter

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    Makes sense. I thought perhaps there was a functional issue with ABS that might be causing you to remove it. I have had ABS save my butt a couple times on the slab. Crashing in the dirt beats crashing on the pavement every time.
    #7
  8. azkiwi

    azkiwi message in a bottle

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    There are work-arounds that make the ABS more easily handlebar switchable. Won't get you more underseat storage tho.
    #8
  9. Pax

    Pax shazam.

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    If you do this, how much weight will it save?

    -Pax
    #9
  10. twodollardoug

    twodollardoug the calimesa kid

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    all in all, i think mine weighed about 7 lbs.
    #10
  11. bt390

    bt390 Adventurer

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    thanks th Mr. Bubblehead I removed mine yesterday and Im very happy with it.
    The bike is much more rider friendly off road I don't have the ability to make the bike do what I want it to do with the link between me and the brakes.
    The extra storage room is nice also.

    My 2c's
    #11
  12. DSM8

    DSM8 Where fun goes to die....

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    For putting into pics what I did. I have yet to remove the actual harness that went to the pump under the seat but since I already have the bike apart I think that will on the to do list this week.

    Just a couple of points in reference to other questions:

    Longer lines.

    If you try to route lines in any manner than the stock S curve with the low fender you end up with air in the lines that is never fully removed and get a mushy lever. This is why after dozens of tests and several thousand miles we scrapped the ABS high fender kit.

    Turn off in the dirt.

    If you want to keep the ABS but not worry about it for a multi day trip just put a washer between the sesor and the housing on the rear sensor. This will move it far enough out the ABS will be disabled until you put it back to stock. No ABS worries while off road on your trip.

    Storage

    Yes having the storage under the seat is very nice indeed.

    Weight.

    Pump with wires etc came in a little over 6lbs.
    #12
  13. Pax

    Pax shazam.

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    Thanks for the explanations.

    Is it possible to leave the current lines and brakes, but simply remove the abs pump allowing for it to be reinstalled later?

    If I remove the ABS can I then easily convert to the high fender kit?

    -Pax

    #13
  14. DSM8

    DSM8 Where fun goes to die....

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    Yes and No.

    You can remove just the pump but then you need new lines to the front and rear brakes from the brake boosters.

    You will also need to replace the speedo pickup so you can tell how fast and far you have gone.

    BUT if you keep the stock stuff it would just be a matter of R&R the new back with the old to get the ABS back together.
    #14
  15. Pax

    Pax shazam.

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    Hrm. I need to simply make a decision. If I am going to remove it, I need to keep the old parts if I ever want to restore the ABS on the bike. Thanks for the input...

    Perhaps I need to just trade for a 990S or a 950SE...hrm... :thumb

    -Pax

    #15
  16. Faststage1

    Faststage1 mmmm muuuud

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    How did the brakes feel after the removal? More power? Better feel? Harder? More spongy? Less spongy? Lever travel?
    #16
  17. Katoom119

    Katoom119 Mmmm....Orange Kool-aid

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    The brakes feel better to me. Now I don't know if that's because the lines are more direct instead of running through a pump or because I did a decent job bleeding them. I had 4,000+ miles on the bike when I did it so it was time to anyway. It's not 10x better or anything but you can tell that there is a more solid feel to both front and rear.

    I'm going to try and convert to a high fender here soon. I've got all the parts on order and hopefully I'll get it done before I leave for Moab. I'm going to bleed them again with the low fender on, to make sure that all the air is out, and then put the high fender on. I'm routing things a little differently and it may/may not even work. We'll see.
    #17
  18. Pax

    Pax shazam.

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    Guys,

    Thanks for working on this post. It is helpful. Can I pull the ABS without replacing the brake lines if I'm not raising the suspension?

    If I can do it sans line replacement, are there any other parts required other than the sensor, instrument cover and screws?

    -Pax
    #18
  19. Katoom119

    Katoom119 Mmmm....Orange Kool-aid

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    The lines are long enough that you'll be able to get by with the stockers, the only real problem is the end of the line will be bent at a different angle than you really need up at the master cylinder. You can probably make it work. From the front brakes they go up to the bottom triple clamp then back along the frame to the pump. If anything they'll be about a foot too long. You may be able to get a brake shop or someplace similar to make some. I know that there's a few places around here that'll make a set pretty cheaply.

    The bare minimum parts that you need are the speedo sensor and the screws. The instrument cover is 50% optional as you don't need to get the one without the ABS button but if you don't the light will burn out. Your choice. I will say that I like the new cover much better without that button.
    #19
  20. cpmodem

    cpmodem Orange Caveman

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    #20