DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. thatonetylerguy

    thatonetylerguy Been here awhile

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    Yes. I'm inexperienced and nobody I know rides. Sometimes I have to ask dumb questions cuz I have no one else to ask.
    Hamburgerhotdog and Ibraz like this.
  2. everready

    everready Stuck in Ohio....Ugh!!!

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    No worries. We all have to start somewhere. I thought you were just trolling.
    Ask away...................
    thatonetylerguy likes this.
  3. Dirtnadvil

    Dirtnadvil Long timer

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    I know this is an old post, but I'll chime in on the WR250R. For a guy who is 6'5" I think you'll find the WR too small and cramped. Im 6' nothing and the main reason I sold my WR was how cramped I felt. It was a great bike after I had it restrung and valved for my weight, how ever the bike requires a lot of shifting if your 200 lbs. If the bike was slightly larger and a 450 it would of been perfect
  4. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    That is good to know. I need to swap bikes with my friend one day and try his out. At 6'2", I already find the DR350 small (mostly corrected with lower foot pegs and handlebar risers).

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
  5. Jeff@TheQuadShop

    Jeff@TheQuadShop TAT survivor

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    Crestwood, Kentucky
    I'm 6'1", the Fishers seat and ROX risers made all the difference for me.
    Greg Bender likes this.
  6. brianpeck

    brianpeck Been here awhile

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    Santa Barbara, CA
    Ended up finding both side plates & bolts for $9 shipped on eBay, figured for that price it wasn’t worth it to bug either of you. Thanks though!
    plugeye and Jeff@TheQuadShop like this.
  7. Friedom

    Friedom Onward and upward!

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    I did a 385. It pinged. High octane fuel solved it. Then I made a different bike a 441 from Thumper Racing. No compression bump with that kit, less pinging there but it's there if you lug it when it's hot(see above posts).
    All in all, after having 8 of them I'd say if you don't like the DR in stock form(maybe accessorized), then go find a bike that you do like rather than trying to make this bike something it's not. After big bores, big tanks, big forks, my favorite is a 99 kicker with an improved seat.
    plugeye likes this.
  8. Friedom

    Friedom Onward and upward!

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    Fixed my bike. Decided that it was worth checking the remote possibility that something was wrong in the wiring, so I unplugged all nonessentials and it fired up.
    Turns out I had the power going to the handlebar switch from the red/white wire and bikey no likey. Also explains the burned headlight bulb.

    She's baaaaaaaack!
    Also swapped a fender on it that I think looks better, snugged up some bolts, tightened up the kick stand play, welded on a nub to stop the kick stand from going so high and leading to rubbing, replaced headlight bulb, wiped things down and took pictures and test ride.
    And the carb is SUUUUPER clean now, o rings updated, valves adjusted, cam checked, she ready to play.

    DR for sale!! Haha only real problem she ever gave me was when I plugged in the wrong wire.. 20191004_134256.jpg
  9. law1200

    law1200 Adventurer

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    Oct 2, 2019
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    I am very pleased with the power I gained from the 385 and after adding the exhaust the pinging is almost gone. I Can live with it I was just wondering if anyone had found a solution to the pinging.

    With the money I spent for the bike the engine kit and machining the cylinder am at $1500.00.
    My budget to get into the adventure riding was $2200.00 so after upgrading the engine I spent some money on some goodies like the trial tech Pro a large fuel tank HID head light fork springs couple ram mounts for electronics.
    It's not as powerful as the DR400 or as fast but I am happy with the old bike, it gets the job done and is reliable to boot.
  10. law1200

    law1200 Adventurer

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    Oct 2, 2019
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    South Carolina
    Just wondering which cylinder head is preferred by riders with the kick start engine Auto or Manual?

    Please chime in. I have a manual and was wondering if the auto would be better.
  11. Btown Jason

    Btown Jason MotoChimp Supporter

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    Sep 17, 2012
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    200
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    Bloomington, IN
    Has anyone here mounted both a Corbin seat and an acerbis 5.8 gallon tank (the one meant for an XR650) on their DR350SE? I have the Acerbis tank on the bike already (bought it that way) and just bought a Corbin seat. Now I can't get the thing mounted and I'm thinking that moving the tank a bit is gonna be my only chance at getting the seat on the bike. Any wisdom out there?
  12. Friedom

    Friedom Onward and upward!

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    Definitely the auto decoompression head. Furthermore - the dirt model cam is much friendlier on the foot than the SE cam. The decompression mechanism is a little different between the two. I could start my 99 dirt model in sandals. Sometimes it would start while I was priming it to be ready to kick.
    There's a good bit if play in the mounting of the tank. Certainly more so than the Corbin. You might need to modify the rearmost tank bracket, depending on how it was done. Just make sure you still have lock-to-lock steering when you move the tank forward.
    Btown Jason likes this.
  13. V-Stormer

    V-Stormer Bush Basher

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    TM33-8012 question . . . Is the throttle shaft on the carb supposed to go 100 % of it's range from idle-stop to end-stop when using the throttle?

    I can move the shaft by hand that way, but using the throttle it only goes 80% of the way. I've tried every adjustment possible on the push-pull cables, which I got from a TM33-8012 kit custom made for the DR350se. But no cable adjustment combination works. If I try to unscrew the in-line adjuster any further it will increase range, but things start to bind and not move freely. I had a similar issue with the stock push-pull cables. So I'm wondering if 80% travel is normal?

    Can anyone confirm what their throttle shaft rotation range is on a DR350 with a TM33-8012 and stock throttle tube setup? (I know you are out there!)

    I increased the pilot and main jets both a size up for my 440 big bore kit and it's running great. Barely perceptible hesitation at one point and lots of power. Can go from 60km to 100km in a few seconds in sixth gear. Passing is no problem. So I'm riding and enjoying it as-is for now until I can get a well informed answer. I've emailed Mikunioz and will ask a local shop I trust about carb stuff.

    (Been a while since I've been on this thread and man has it gotten big! . . . over 3,000 pages! . . . must be a record)
  14. V-Stormer

    V-Stormer Bush Basher

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    I wanted to provide an update on this oil pressure indicator modification . . . it works like a hot damn!

    I can tell when the oil level is low, because when I come to a quick stop, the LED light flickers a bit. Usually at that point, the oil is around the bottom of the stick. When I fill it, it seldom if ever flickers. I think that's because there is not enough gravity feed when the oil level is low to keep the pump full of oil and pressure well above the switch cut-out point momentarily when coming to a quick stop or fast deceleration.

    One thing I've noticed though is that the connection needs to be waterproofed. When riding in wet weather, my heart kind of stops when I see the light on steady. Especially after I go through a puddle in the middle of who-knows-where! But after a few min of driving (if it's not raining), it dries up and it goes away. I might solder a short wire to the spade connector on the switch with a waterproof connector on the other end and then use some silicon or other goop to seal up the spade connector.

    But overall , this has been a great mod and saved my butt a few times when I wasn't expecting the oil to be low. Definitely would save my butt in a leak situation.
  15. turboguzzi

    turboguzzi Casual rooster

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    Milan, Italy
    solution depends on how well the squish area was brought to a good height value. If you mounted your big bore without making a check, then do one with 1/16 solder ASAP :). Would aim for 0.9mm by milling the cyl.

    Stock is most likely above 1mm (mine measured 1.17), so it cant help much with stopping detonation/pinging

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  16. Andreim92

    Andreim92 Lost

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    Dec 10, 2016
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    120
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    RO
    Any tall and heavy guys around here? I'm about 6feet6 (1.97) and 240 (110kg) and thinking about possibly getting a little brother for the Africa Twin.
    I really tried getting technical with my first one, the Transalp, now with the AT, I learned a lot of stuff, but of course , as you know, those bike are heavy as shit and I really want to improve my riding ( not necessarily jumping off cliffs but small jumps I would like).
    I heard the bike bike has some frame flex and some cases with swingarm flex. Would like to get a SE model but at the right price would get a kickstarter.
    So my questions are...

    1. Are other fat blokes like me riding the DR hard-ish than can calm me down? (Enduro not MX)
    2. Is the flexing i mentioned above a problem?
    3. Will the bike hold my fat ass ok after a resprung?

    Thank you, Andrei
  17. Dirtnadvil

    Dirtnadvil Long timer

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    I had the headlight cowling off doing some work and I noticed a wire connector with a brown and a black wire. Is this for the Euro model or something else....Thanks
  18. hellotimmutton

    hellotimmutton Been here awhile

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    Oct 24, 2016
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    This mod seems like it should be an essential one for DR owners, given that oil starvation appears to be the #1 killer of these bikes. If you were to do it again would you stick with the adapter setup or just buy a slightly oversized one and machine it to the correct thread?
  19. V-Stormer

    V-Stormer Bush Basher

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    I think either way would work equally as well, but it might be a challenge finding a oil pressure switch with threads larger than the size of that plug in the type and range you'd need. The adapter way was just easier for me in my garage shop. The thread pitch was wrong, so the other method wouldn't have worked for me because the thread was already the same size as the hole. Drilling out and tapping the plug, then taking the thread down on the switch seemed the best way at hand at the time.

    The key is locating the right kind of switch - a normally-open oil pressure switch that will close at about 3 or 4 psi (minimum pressure). The one I ended up with was a switch for FIAT 131 Mirafiori 2.0 Racing car - and purchased from the UK. Unfortunately the link I have for the one I bought doesn't work anymore. :(

    But if you could find one to that spec and had a large enough thread you could strip it and make the correct size and pitch thread to fit the plug hole, that's probably less work. Less steps in any case.

    As for oil starvation (which I think most often occurs in the valve head), I'm not sure how much this switch would help, other than in a no-oil or faulty pump situation. If an oil passage to or from the head is the culprit, the oil pressure light would still go out once the pressure goes above 4psi. It also doesn't tell you what the pressure is, just that it's above minimum. A gauge sensor instead of a switch would give you a better idea of whether the pressure is weak, but above minimum.
  20. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Life is for good friends and great adventures Supporter

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    A blocked oil passage is almost never the culprit. Low oil level is.