DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. law1200

    law1200 Adventurer

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    Just wondering which cylinder head is preferred by riders with the kick start engine Auto or Manual?

    Please chime in. I have a manual and was wondering if the auto would be better.
  2. Btown Jason

    Btown Jason MotoChimp Supporter

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    Has anyone here mounted both a Corbin seat and an acerbis 5.8 gallon tank (the one meant for an XR650) on their DR350SE? I have the Acerbis tank on the bike already (bought it that way) and just bought a Corbin seat. Now I can't get the thing mounted and I'm thinking that moving the tank a bit is gonna be my only chance at getting the seat on the bike. Any wisdom out there?
  3. Friedom

    Friedom Onward and upward!

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    Definitely the auto decoompression head. Furthermore - the dirt model cam is much friendlier on the foot than the SE cam. The decompression mechanism is a little different between the two. I could start my 99 dirt model in sandals. Sometimes it would start while I was priming it to be ready to kick.
    There's a good bit if play in the mounting of the tank. Certainly more so than the Corbin. You might need to modify the rearmost tank bracket, depending on how it was done. Just make sure you still have lock-to-lock steering when you move the tank forward.
    Btown Jason likes this.
  4. V-Stormer

    V-Stormer Bush Basher

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    TM33-8012 question . . . Is the throttle shaft on the carb supposed to go 100 % of it's range from idle-stop to end-stop when using the throttle?

    I can move the shaft by hand that way, but using the throttle it only goes 80% of the way. I've tried every adjustment possible on the push-pull cables, which I got from a TM33-8012 kit custom made for the DR350se. But no cable adjustment combination works. If I try to unscrew the in-line adjuster any further it will increase range, but things start to bind and not move freely. I had a similar issue with the stock push-pull cables. So I'm wondering if 80% travel is normal?

    Can anyone confirm what their throttle shaft rotation range is on a DR350 with a TM33-8012 and stock throttle tube setup? (I know you are out there!)

    I increased the pilot and main jets both a size up for my 440 big bore kit and it's running great. Barely perceptible hesitation at one point and lots of power. Can go from 60km to 100km in a few seconds in sixth gear. Passing is no problem. So I'm riding and enjoying it as-is for now until I can get a well informed answer. I've emailed Mikunioz and will ask a local shop I trust about carb stuff.

    (Been a while since I've been on this thread and man has it gotten big! . . . over 3,000 pages! . . . must be a record)
  5. V-Stormer

    V-Stormer Bush Basher

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    I wanted to provide an update on this oil pressure indicator modification . . . it works like a hot damn!

    I can tell when the oil level is low, because when I come to a quick stop, the LED light flickers a bit. Usually at that point, the oil is around the bottom of the stick. When I fill it, it seldom if ever flickers. I think that's because there is not enough gravity feed when the oil level is low to keep the pump full of oil and pressure well above the switch cut-out point momentarily when coming to a quick stop or fast deceleration.

    One thing I've noticed though is that the connection needs to be waterproofed. When riding in wet weather, my heart kind of stops when I see the light on steady. Especially after I go through a puddle in the middle of who-knows-where! But after a few min of driving (if it's not raining), it dries up and it goes away. I might solder a short wire to the spade connector on the switch with a waterproof connector on the other end and then use some silicon or other goop to seal up the spade connector.

    But overall , this has been a great mod and saved my butt a few times when I wasn't expecting the oil to be low. Definitely would save my butt in a leak situation.
  6. turboguzzi

    turboguzzi Casual rooster

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    solution depends on how well the squish area was brought to a good height value. If you mounted your big bore without making a check, then do one with 1/16 solder ASAP :). Would aim for 0.9mm by milling the cyl.

    Stock is most likely above 1mm (mine measured 1.17), so it cant help much with stopping detonation/pinging

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  7. Andreim92

    Andreim92 Lost

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    Any tall and heavy guys around here? I'm about 6feet6 (1.97) and 240 (110kg) and thinking about possibly getting a little brother for the Africa Twin.
    I really tried getting technical with my first one, the Transalp, now with the AT, I learned a lot of stuff, but of course , as you know, those bike are heavy as shit and I really want to improve my riding ( not necessarily jumping off cliffs but small jumps I would like).
    I heard the bike bike has some frame flex and some cases with swingarm flex. Would like to get a SE model but at the right price would get a kickstarter.
    So my questions are...

    1. Are other fat blokes like me riding the DR hard-ish than can calm me down? (Enduro not MX)
    2. Is the flexing i mentioned above a problem?
    3. Will the bike hold my fat ass ok after a resprung?

    Thank you, Andrei
  8. Dirtnadvil

    Dirtnadvil Long timer

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    I had the headlight cowling off doing some work and I noticed a wire connector with a brown and a black wire. Is this for the Euro model or something else....Thanks
  9. hellotimmutton

    hellotimmutton Been here awhile

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    This mod seems like it should be an essential one for DR owners, given that oil starvation appears to be the #1 killer of these bikes. If you were to do it again would you stick with the adapter setup or just buy a slightly oversized one and machine it to the correct thread?
  10. V-Stormer

    V-Stormer Bush Basher

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    I think either way would work equally as well, but it might be a challenge finding a oil pressure switch with threads larger than the size of that plug in the type and range you'd need. The adapter way was just easier for me in my garage shop. The thread pitch was wrong, so the other method wouldn't have worked for me because the thread was already the same size as the hole. Drilling out and tapping the plug, then taking the thread down on the switch seemed the best way at hand at the time.

    The key is locating the right kind of switch - a normally-open oil pressure switch that will close at about 3 or 4 psi (minimum pressure). The one I ended up with was a switch for FIAT 131 Mirafiori 2.0 Racing car - and purchased from the UK. Unfortunately the link I have for the one I bought doesn't work anymore. :(

    But if you could find one to that spec and had a large enough thread you could strip it and make the correct size and pitch thread to fit the plug hole, that's probably less work. Less steps in any case.

    As for oil starvation (which I think most often occurs in the valve head), I'm not sure how much this switch would help, other than in a no-oil or faulty pump situation. If an oil passage to or from the head is the culprit, the oil pressure light would still go out once the pressure goes above 4psi. It also doesn't tell you what the pressure is, just that it's above minimum. A gauge sensor instead of a switch would give you a better idea of whether the pressure is weak, but above minimum.
  11. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Life is for good friends and great adventures Supporter

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    A blocked oil passage is almost never the culprit. Low oil level is.
  12. mentolio

    mentolio Been here awhile

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    I think there were bikes from the 80s that came equipped with oil LEVEL sending units, though I'll be damned if I can remember what models (want to say small Viragos, 535/250, but am likely wrong). I do remember them being small, though (the switch, I mean). Find your minimum comfort zone for oil level, weld a bung in the reservoir, add a light, and done...maybe...don't remember how they worked, just remember replacing quite a few of them, so maybe not a great idea to begin with?
    hellotimmutton likes this.
  13. turboguzzi

    turboguzzi Casual rooster

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    A DR350 is not for you IMHO. I bought mine for my girlfriend but ride it quite a lot. I am not even as tall as you (1.88m) certainly nor as lardy (84kg.) and the bike feels OK, but already on the limit of being too small to me. In tight and technical enduro it works fine but if im doing any highway miles or long fast gravel, my ass is usually found on the passenger seating zone, it's that short. So get a 600.... XR600, TT600, or if you dont mind doing a bit more maintenenace a KTM640. Im mentioning this older stuff as it sounds like your budget is under 2K euro or so.
  14. Andreim92

    Andreim92 Lost

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    Around there yea, regarding the budget. I also thought it was too little, I need my room haha. Sat on an XR650R, was ok, but hard to get because they're rare as ....
    Thanks for the reply ! P.S. Heres me on the XR !:rofl
    A19A1EB8-369A-4F94-A03A-6B55EBF6CDCE.jpeg
  15. turboguzzi

    turboguzzi Casual rooster

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    from the "RO" i take it you are in Romania? Guess not much second hand choice there.... If you can import from EU, then autoscout24 is an excellent place to look in. But that XR650s would be a rare beast also here in italy.... I think you have more chances finding a nice KTM from the LC4 series (600, 620, 640) than an XR650...
    law1200 likes this.
  16. Andreim92

    Andreim92 Lost

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    Yes....yes...and yes....will also keep an eye on xr600r s
  17. law1200

    law1200 Adventurer

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    I have 2 buddies your height and weight they both went with the XR650L due to their size. Wanted KTM but didn't want to have play the wait on parts game when in need of them. The only issue they have had is with the weird carburetor that Honda put on those bikes.
  18. Andreim92

    Andreim92 Lost

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    I d rather stick with the AT than getting a L, dont really like it although I heard its a good bike . Thank you for the reply !
  19. plugeye

    plugeye MC rescue

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    yep, i've seen this in the past on an XR650
    [​IMG]
    Flipmode513 likes this.
  20. buzzword

    buzzword Been here awhile

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    what’s weird about the carburetor? It’s a CV carb that’s not too dissimilar from the BST on a DR - just made by keihin instead of mikuni.
    Jeff@TheQuadShop likes this.