DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. dean-o

    dean-o Dabs often

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,292
    Location:
    old hickory,tn
    Anyone aware of different length koubalinks? I have installed #1 on my 350 & wonder which # lowered the seat height the least?
    Happy Tuesday
  2. plugeye

    plugeye MC rescue

    Joined:
    May 11, 2007
    Oddometer:
    6,796
    Location:
    Garland, Texas USA
    If the links are for lowering purposes ONLY, sag is set at 3.75", and will lower the rear of the bike approx. 2.0" with the DR #3 links, 1.75” with the DR #2 links and 1.5" with the DR #1 links.
  3. dean-o

    dean-o Dabs often

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,292
    Location:
    old hickory,tn
    Thanks
    I think I like the stock feel better, but I haven’t lowered the front of the bike yet.
  4. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    8,324
    Location:
    Truckee
    Never seen an aftermarket one. Why? What is wrong with the stocker? Is it cause it is $30? Here is what I have found. The 90-93S runs a 43/14 stock and uses case save 27640-14D01 which runs ~$30. This one only fits a 14 or smaller tooth front sprocket. Not really worth grinding. You need to grind alot.

    The 94+ SE runs a 15/44 stock. And uses case saver 27640-14D10 and cost ~$10. This one fits the 15 and is backwards compatible.
    Hamburgerhotdog and plugeye like this.
  5. Kestrel

    Kestrel Gear Driven Cams!!

    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2008
    Oddometer:
    649
    Location:
    North Carolina
    The Royal Enfield cooler actually looks pretty darn good. I bet that could be rigged to fit the DR350 quite easily.. and if the parts are coming from India, they are likely pretty reasonably priced.

    But where can you buy RE Himalayan OEM parts online? I checked around and can't find a good vendor or parts fiche.
  6. hellotimmutton

    hellotimmutton Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2016
    Oddometer:
    241
    No strong need, just looks flimsy, especially if ground to fit a 16 tooth sprocket
  7. mentolio

    mentolio King of the island of unwanted toys...

    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2016
    Oddometer:
    822
    Is that part in question really a "case saver," or is it more of a chain "guide?" I see a lot of cases (mine being one of them) where one or both of the bosses that piece bolts to are broken-off. Seems to me to be a pretty weak design if it's meant to protect the stator cover in the event of a chain break/pop-off. The steel is plenty stout, I just question the strength of those two small post-style bosses it bolts to (with 6mm hardware).
    brianpeck and Greg Bender like this.
  8. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    8,324
    Location:
    Truckee
    Not that cheap. I tried to find some on Ebay yesterday.
    It is more of a chain jammer. I broke a chain on the dr, twice in fact. Both time the same thing happened. The chain got all jammed up and did not contact the case. I'll post a pic if I can find it.
    Screenshot_2019-10-15-19-40-41.png
  9. hellotimmutton

    hellotimmutton Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2016
    Oddometer:
    241
    Yeah my top one is snapped. Gotta get it welded back on, might be worth increasing the diameter at the same time (assuming it wouldnt make the wall too thin). Seems like a third mounting point wouldve been a good idea
    brianpeck likes this.
  10. V-Stormer

    V-Stormer Bush Basher

    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2009
    Oddometer:
    394
    Location:
    Vancouver Island, Canada
    I believe it's mostly meant as a guide or "keeper" to prevent the chain from jumping teeth or coming off the front sprocket if the chain becomes too loose for some reason. As others have mentioned, it's not much metal and the bolts are kind of small for it's primary function to be a case cover saver. However, as also mentioned, it can (and has) prevented the chain from breaking the case cover, so it's definitely better than not having anything there!

    I think it's important to have one, so I custom made one for my 16 tooth sprocket. I just shaped a piece of similar thickness steel with a slightly larger circumference (using the chain on the 16T to size it), then used two small pieces of steel tubing mig welded over the holes in the plate. I had to cut a notch in the front side of it to clear a bump on a part of the case, so there is even less metal than there is on the stock one. But as I count on it mostly as a keeper, I just hope if the chain ever goes it might also save the case cover. I have my doubts, depending on the forces at play if/when a chain breaks, but . . .

    The next time I put the 13 tooth sprocket on, I'll measure up and make one for that too. Up until now, I've just used the stock one with the 13T as I believe it is still close enough to the chain to prevent teeth from lifting off and hopefully provide some protection for the case cover. But if you look at how close it is to the chain on the stock setup, I think it's intended to be pretty close to the rollers in the middle of the chain, so I'll make one for that sprocket as well.
  11. mentolio

    mentolio King of the island of unwanted toys...

    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2016
    Oddometer:
    822
    Careful when welding that little bugger. When my friend welded mine back on, the weld actually impinged upon the oil passage where the hard line bolts up (the break was very close to the passage). Not only did it compromise the flat sealing surface, but I ended up with a pin hole as well. Nothing a double sealing washer and some JB couldn't fix, but it was a PITA.
  12. brianpeck

    brianpeck Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2017
    Oddometer:
    291
    Location:
    Santa Barbara, CA
    For what it's worth, I had a chain break pretty early on to owning my 97SE, when it came around it brought the "case saver" with it by breaking off at those threaded holes in the case. Punched a small hole in the case right in front of the "case saver," but luckily this area is sort of double-walled (again, at least on my 97SE) and though I had a clear hole I could see right in to, it never leaked oil - I was just looking into an empty cavity in the case. Some JB Weld sealed up the hole and I never had any issues.
  13. mentolio

    mentolio King of the island of unwanted toys...

    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2016
    Oddometer:
    822
    whew, lucky that^^^
    brianpeck and OHjim like this.
  14. V-Stormer

    V-Stormer Bush Basher

    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2009
    Oddometer:
    394
    Location:
    Vancouver Island, Canada
    I received my 4" SPAL fan the other day and hooked it up to a spare 12v battery and Thump! is absolutely on the mark when he says it moves a LOT more air! In fact close to 4 times more CFM. So far the smaller 3" computer fan has tolerated the heat, but it's absolutely wimpy compared to the SPAL. Unfortunately, the SPAL is a bit big for the 3" wide cooler, but I'll design the cooler guard to accommodate the fan and post my setup once it's done. (Might not be for a bit as there are a number of other priorities ahead of it.) But if anyone is thinking of putting a fan on a cooler, consider using the SPAL. It's the same one that TT provides with the universal fan kit. I ended up buying components separately and saved a bit of money, but had to do some extending of the cables and swapping of connectors. The kit comes with everything needed and all proper connectors. In the end I spent close to what the TT universal kit cost (SPAL $95 / TT gauge about $100). That's still a bit less than the $239 (tax incl.) that the kit sells for in Canada.
    brianpeck likes this.
  15. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    8,324
    Location:
    Truckee
    From time to time you see this throttle on a DR350. Usually a dirt model. Anyone know what it is? I don't think it came stock.

    [​IMG]
  16. Boblosi111

    Boblosi111 Adventurer Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2019
    Oddometer:
    32
    Location:
    Indiana
    Looks like the quick twist 1/4 turn type aftermarket throttle. Popular back on the late 70's early 80's motocross bikes.
  17. turboguzzi

    turboguzzi Casual rooster

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2017
    Oddometer:
    43
    Location:
    Milan, Italy
    nice period piece but it's an "open only" throttle, for carbs with bell-crank operation like ours you'd better use a "open-close" double cable one. 95% of the time an open only will be fine, but for those occasions were for some reason slide hangs up (dirt ingress, etc...), a dual cable one will allow you to positively roll-off.
    That said, I think that until the introduction of open-close units in the 70's, we didnt know any better right?
  18. nooooo

    nooooo Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2013
    Oddometer:
    33
    Location:
    odaroloC
    Hey guys, bike was stolen a month back or so in Boulder, CO. Oury grips, DG exhaust, left hand guard was cracked a bit, had a really cool stamped steel rack on the back I bought from a guy on here. Please keep an eye out.

    Attached Files:

  19. dbarale

    dbarale Squiddly slow

    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2008
    Oddometer:
    2,716
    Location:
    Western NC
    The early 350 only had one cable too. They work fine.
    plugeye likes this.
  20. mentolio

    mentolio King of the island of unwanted toys...

    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2016
    Oddometer:
    822
    They do work fine. My bike is a single, pull-only cable. It HAS stuck on me before, on one particuarly wet and sandy ride. Some junk got mixed into the throttle plate return spring and caused my throttle to hang up a bit, really only equaling a high idle, not a life threatening condition by any means. The fix? Stopping the bike and forcibly closing the throttle all the way, by hand. If I'd had a "push-pull" double cable I could have fixed the issue without stopping, and could have dealt with it had it persisted (which it didn't). I maintain the hell outta my bike, to include regular cable lubing and keeping it very clean, so I don't worry about not having the double cable setup but I can definitely see an advantage to it. Someone who does less maintenance and/or never washes their bike (we all know someone who thinks clumps of dirt falling off their bike gives them more "street cred"), and has killed a few too many brain cells could end up with a hanging throttle and a problem with the single cable setup.