DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. Boblosi111

    Boblosi111 n00b Supporter

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    Seems like working on 20 - 30 year old dual sport motorcycles lot's of elbow grease needed sometimes even with the right tool!
    Just about done with a complete tune up & maintenance end to end top to bottom, on my 91 ds350s. At this point I'm quite pleased with how it's going. But very nice to have a twin dr350s (low miles) I've been riding in the meantime. So much elbow grease used but I know just what I got now. 8500 miles and she's rock solid now. I feel a smile on my face just typing this. If I was gonna do it worth doing it right
    BikePilot likes this.
  2. V-Stormer

    V-Stormer Bush Basher

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    I found this solution to be intriguing . . . https://kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=17772#p162123

    Looks to me like a harmonic balancer puller which I've seen on amazon.ca for $29 Cdn (close to Aud). They're advertised locally all over the place for about double that. I'm going to check out locally first and see how large they are. I have old (broken) cases that I can measure up against. Some kit's include long 8mm and 10mm bolts, but metric ready-rod would also work if you can find it at a fastener supply store.
    thump! likes this.
  3. everready

    everready Stuck in Ohio....Ugh!!!

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    Do you have Advance Auto or Auto Zone stores, or stores like them in Aus? If so, you might be able to rent a puller. You 'buy' the item and when you return it, you get all of your money back. It might be worth checking into. Even a generic gear puller might work.
    DBamaC likes this.
  4. plugeye

    plugeye MC rescue

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    +1
    steering wheel puller or the like should work fine.
    every shop needs one
    thump! likes this.
  5. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    Getting cold out here. Throttle side grip heater went out. Finger tips were frozen by the time I got home from my after work commute. Burrrrrrr.
  6. plugeye

    plugeye MC rescue

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    dang, still wearing hunting vest and no gloves. shorts to the gym
  7. Ibraz

    Ibraz Been here awhile

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    Is your chain contacting the aluminum underside or just the black chain guide in front? My chain is adjusted to a little less than 1.5 inches or so, andlooks like this when I pull it up to the swingarm:

    View attachment 1864051
    Yeah, I know...I really should make putting a rear chain guide on this thing a priority, but...

    I leave it a little loose like this, as the bike seems happier with it this way. I run a 14t front sprocket (little if any effect on the slack) and a 52 tooth rear (which may have some effect). A smaller rear sprocket like a 42t (which I think is what most of the 350s come with stock?) would likely have the chain slapping the aluminum if set up like mine. If in ONE click you're going from "chain slapping aluminum" to "too damned tight," there's something wonky going on. I would suggest putting your rear wheel in the air and slowly turning it while observing the chain closely. If while rotating the rear wheel you notice the chain going from slack to tight and back again, you likely have a "tight spot" in the chain. When you ride doe you hear a "wurrrr-wurrr-wurrr" noise coming from the front sprocket area that speeds up and slows down with acceleration/deceleration? And remains constant at steady speed? If you experience this, also a dead give away for a damaged chain. A "tight spot" is a section of the chain that either stretched significantly more or less than the rest of the chain.

    I know you said your chain is new, but who makes it and where did it come from? My original brand new chain was a DID that I ordered from eBay. It was very inexpensive, and the first one I ordered I put on my buddy's D350, and it's been fine. "Same" chain (same model ordered from same seller, I mean) on my anemic DR250 needed adjustment after every ride for the first 1000 to 1500 miles, until i ran out of adjustment and replaced it. Moral of the story: I either got a defective DID chain, a counterfeit chain, or my DR250 makes more power than any DR350 (least likely of the options;)). Could be your new chain is a POS like mine was, and now you may have a tight spot (or three) in it. What are your sprockets like? Did they get replaced with the chain? Sometimes you can get away with just doing the chain if the sprockets are worn evenly and very little, unlike this front:

    View attachment 1864058 View attachment 1864059
    Old front sprocket, less than 1500 miles, and the suspect chain.

    If you look closely at the sprocket, some of the teeth seem to be directional/pointing in one direction like a claw. No bueno. Either my sprocket was also a counterfeit (rear sprocket showed none of this wear), or the "bad" chain caused it to wear prematurely. I use a Bikemaster chain now that a friend turned me on to. It's an x-ring, doesn't cost a fortune, and is tough as nails! In about four hundred miles I've adjusted twice, and it's now holding steady adjusted as-is.

    View attachment 1864065

    Check the chain and sprockets as I said and let us know what you find. Hope this is some help?[/QUOTE]

    The chain is a lot slacker than in your picture, I'm able to push it against the underside of the swingarm with absolutely no resistance yet on the "next" adjustment tooth it is tight to the point of not having any play.

    When I did the first adjustment I was at a friend's place and I think the rear axle was under tightened. Riding the bike like this may have gouged the adjusters (not visibly) or the axle.
    I'll have a bit of time tomorrow to check things (I'll try rotating the axle).

    The PO gave me a bill from the shop that did the tune up a few days before I bought the bike. Same shop who changed the filter and missed the O-Ring, and same shop that said that the bike was ready to braaap and needed nothing even though it had a loose primary nut and carb needed an overhaul + clutch basket is dragging (first single cyl and carbureted bike for me so I trusted them).

    It'll get a new chain and some internal (clutch basket + valves + gear selection stopper) work this winter just to be sure (I'm not able to ride it at the moment so it's condition won't deteriorate.
    Can't trust the PO or the shop that did the work.
  8. Thedktor

    Thedktor Adventurer

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    United Kingdom
    I have done many without a puller. What you need to consider is that most have a "fixed" side where the crank is a semi-interference fit on the main bearing so the first stage is to open the cases leaving the crank on the flywheel side in the left case. ie. pull the right hand case off leaving crank and gearbox parts remaining n the left case.

    The manual mentions this. The gearbox shafts and cogs come out easily, then get a hot air gun on the left crank bearing, you may be lucky and the crank will come out of the bearing, or the bearing may come out with the crank.

    So to reiterate - all the shafts on the RH side will slide off the bearings, with a little help from a rubber mallet ;)

    20190530_202048.jpg
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  9. thatonetylerguy

    thatonetylerguy Been here awhile

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    I think you got the wrong guy. I don't remember posting about a problem with my chain other than it was super rusty.
    Thank you for all the detail though. Stuff like that still helps.
    Ibraz likes this.
  10. V-Stormer

    V-Stormer Bush Basher

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    I was having lunch with some riding buddies yesterday and one of them bought a Royal Enfield Himalayan. To my surprise, it has an oil cooler the same size as mine, placement is the same, mounting is almost exactly the same way, with oil lines that are similarly placed on the engine to the DR350. This cooler would almost be a turnkey fit compared to my custom built one. I'm also guessing that Enfield parts are going to be quite a bit less expensive. If this had been available when I was building mine, I'd have tried to get these parts and may end up doing that anyway in the future. Here are some pics.

    Pic 4.png Pic 3.png Pic 2.png Pic 1.png

    I'd order the cooler, mounting bracket, and the lines. That gives you the proper connections to the cooler and the pipes coming off of them are just short with hoses attached. There is the banjo bolt on the DR for the oil coming off the head that would need to be figured out and the return to the oil tank, but I think that would be easier to solve than all the stuff I had to do for mine. Something to consider anyway.
    Cooler w Fan.png
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  11. hellotimmutton

    hellotimmutton Been here awhile

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  12. dean-o

    dean-o Dabs often

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    Anyone aware of different length koubalinks? I have installed #1 on my 350 & wonder which # lowered the seat height the least?
    Happy Tuesday
  13. plugeye

    plugeye MC rescue

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    If the links are for lowering purposes ONLY, sag is set at 3.75", and will lower the rear of the bike approx. 2.0" with the DR #3 links, 1.75” with the DR #2 links and 1.5" with the DR #1 links.
  14. dean-o

    dean-o Dabs often

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    Thanks
    I think I like the stock feel better, but I haven’t lowered the front of the bike yet.
  15. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    Never seen an aftermarket one. Why? What is wrong with the stocker? Is it cause it is $30? Here is what I have found. The 90-93S runs a 43/14 stock and uses case save 27640-14D01 which runs ~$30. This one only fits a 14 or smaller tooth front sprocket. Not really worth grinding. You need to grind alot.

    The 94+ SE runs a 15/44 stock. And uses case saver 27640-14D10 and cost ~$10. This one fits the 15 and is backwards compatible.
    Hamburgerhotdog and plugeye like this.
  16. Kestrel

    Kestrel Gear Driven Cams!!

    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2008
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    The Royal Enfield cooler actually looks pretty darn good. I bet that could be rigged to fit the DR350 quite easily.. and if the parts are coming from India, they are likely pretty reasonably priced.

    But where can you buy RE Himalayan OEM parts online? I checked around and can't find a good vendor or parts fiche.
  17. hellotimmutton

    hellotimmutton Been here awhile

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    No strong need, just looks flimsy, especially if ground to fit a 16 tooth sprocket
  18. mentolio

    mentolio Been here awhile

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    Is that part in question really a "case saver," or is it more of a chain "guide?" I see a lot of cases (mine being one of them) where one or both of the bosses that piece bolts to are broken-off. Seems to me to be a pretty weak design if it's meant to protect the stator cover in the event of a chain break/pop-off. The steel is plenty stout, I just question the strength of those two small post-style bosses it bolts to (with 6mm hardware).
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  19. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    Not that cheap. I tried to find some on Ebay yesterday.
    It is more of a chain jammer. I broke a chain on the dr, twice in fact. Both time the same thing happened. The chain got all jammed up and did not contact the case. I'll post a pic if I can find it.
    Screenshot_2019-10-15-19-40-41.png
  20. hellotimmutton

    hellotimmutton Been here awhile

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    Yeah my top one is snapped. Gotta get it welded back on, might be worth increasing the diameter at the same time (assuming it wouldnt make the wall too thin). Seems like a third mounting point wouldve been a good idea
    brianpeck likes this.