DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. PWNDuallydad

    PWNDuallydad n00b

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    What was the reason for grinding off some width from that gear? I can’t imaging the clutch plates are anything other the OEM at 1750 miles but nothing is for certain since I don’t know the whole history of this bike.

    I plan on opening up the clutch sometime soon and checking spring length, basket edges to see if there is any grooves in there. Any other things to look for?
  2. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    The clutch basket spins between the space created by the spacer than the 2 thrust washers. 2 things cause this space to become smaller than the width of the basket and clutch drag occurs and neutral hard to find. Gets worse when things heat up and everything expands. The back side of the basket gear wears and becomes rough, adding to the baskets total width. Search this topic out and read; there are alot of how to's and pictures. You are not really removing material, more polishing the roughed out back of the gear. As for the spacer and thrust washers. The thrust washers wear, but you can flip them over and use both sides before they need replacement. The spacer appears to be made of a harder material than the washers and I did not measure any wear; thus nor needed to be replaced.
  3. Friedom

    Friedom Onward and upward!

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    Shift drum bolt!!
  4. Friedom

    Friedom Onward and upward!

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    I talked to a guy that tried on the GenI and ended up returning it as the idle never straightened out. GenII has a dedicated idle adjustment. Haven't heard if anyone actually runs one on the good doctor, but the raves on xr650r threads are pretty convincing.
  5. mwitt08

    mwitt08 Adventurer

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    So I may get a head tilt on this, does anyone here make a practice of running some sea foam in their oil just before an oil change?

    On my KLR, the PO had definitely let it sit and the oil had significant build up that could been see on the sight glass. I ran some sea foam in the engine oil for a mile or two, let it sit a day, then ran the engine to get it hot again for an oil change.

    That oil change gave a noticeable improvement in the looks of the sight glass and the feel of the clutch.

    So the real question, is there anything with the dry sump arrangement that would make the sea foam a bad idea on the DR350? Any reason this procedure would hurt anything to do before each oil change?

    I know the sea foam lowers the viscosity and therefore protection factor. Hence not running it for more than a mile or two.
  6. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    maybe I read about the same un successful mating.
    Those carbs also cost more than some of my drs.
    I think I'll stick with the box of cv and tm carbs I have and keep em running.
    Greg Bender and Boblosi111 like this.
  7. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Life is for good friends and great adventures Supporter

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    Just changing the oil will have the same effect IMO. If the old oil is really filthy, put some cheap oil in and change it after a few hundred miles. I have seen vehicles that were sitting for years and years, initially started up with the old oil in them - no ill effects. My DR350 had a leaky petcock so I had to drain the oil because it was diluted with fuel - but it had only 800 miles on it after twenty years so could have been the original oil, or at least not changed for a very long time.
  8. turboguzzi

    turboguzzi Casual rooster

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    Hard to find neutral is a known issue on the 350
    https://advrider.com/f/threads/not-just-another-dr350-clutch.377545/
    but if you dont have the problem then good!
    Not in my case.... have plenty of other bikes and to get some axial free play for the basket like any other of my motor has, i had to grind off some 0.2mm off the gear. For some maybe just polishing the face is enough but you definitely need to feel some axial free play for the basket with the springs off.
    2old2Bbold likes this.
  9. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Life is for good friends and great adventures Supporter

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    I have wondered about this for some time. I presume the original design intent was that the thrust washers should be clamped tight to the spacer and the clutch basket should spin between the washers. The lack of clearance means the thrust washers are tight against the basket so they spin. Once the thrust washers spin relative to the spacer, they wear, press tighter on the basket and at that point, it's all over. If you shave the basket, should you not be able to use full torque on the clutch nut and prevent any of this unwanted movement/wear from happening?
    2old2Bbold likes this.
  10. Boblosi111

    Boblosi111 Adventurer Supporter

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    Sounds like you got the idea. I recently had changed the clutch basket on one of my dr's. I set the torque at the low end of the spec, but didn't check for a little play in the basket. After I got things all back together and tested the bike as soon as I put the bike in gear, which took a heavy foot to do the drag was so bad the bike wanted to start pulling. Shifting was very difficult and finding neutral while the bike was running impossible. Pulled clutch cover back off took the plates out and the basket took a good amount of effort to turn by hand. The thrush washers where quite worn. While waiting for new thrust washers. I wet sanded the gear of the clutch basket with I think 280 grit sandpaper by hand on a flat surface. (My kitchen table) it was slow going but went well. I measured the spacer and then removed enough of the backside of the gear so the distance was smaller than the length of the spacer. After reassembling the clutch basket with new thrust washers I could torque the clutch nut to spec and still have freeplays in the clutch basket. Shifts like butter, finding neutral no problem and the bike don't move till the clutch is let out. With the clutch nut torque to spec before installing the clutch plates the clutch basket should spin freely and have a little back and forth free play.
    brianpeck likes this.
  11. turboguzzi

    turboguzzi Casual rooster

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    yep, thats exactly the idea, getting some axial free play. having the luxury of a small lathe in the shop just made it easier. wrenched for +30 years without one, stopped counting the amount of things i did with it in the two years since ive got one... highly recommended getting one if you maintain and modify bikes

    Attached Files:

    Boblosi111 likes this.
  12. PWNDuallydad

    PWNDuallydad n00b

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    Update on the clutch issue, yesterday I got out for a couple hour ride and found that my clutch cable was sticking really bad. This is what was causing the slipping. When I would pull the clutch in it wouldn’t return fully unless I pushed it forward. With the handle pushed forward no slipping at all! New cable coming because lubing it didn’t seem to free it up fully.

    no change on the noise other then I think it’s comings from the bottom of the engine (like underneath). That is where the sound seems louder.
  13. Tygen1

    Tygen1 Been here awhile

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    I'm working on lightening up my DR. I expect the normal and accepted way to measure this is an empty gas tank and full oil, correct?
  14. Tygen1

    Tygen1 Been here awhile

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    0.2mm is 0.0078in for us Mericans.

    I will try this soon.


  15. windsurfer

    windsurfer Been here awhile

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    I just picked up a 1995 DR350SE with 1400 miles. My shake down run was not good. There is no power! Run first gear up, shift to second nothing. Bike accelerates very slowly. I got on a short section of freeway and the bike topped out at 50mph. At a slight incline, the bike started to slow. On a flat stretch with the throttle wide open I'm going 50mph when there is a short pop and then instant acceleration up through the gear, I shift to the next gear and the bike goes right back to plodding along. This pop and then instant acceleration happened twice. When I get home there is oil all over the air cleaner assembly and below it. I can't tell where exactly it is coming from but the engine is clean. I'd love to hear your thoughts. The bike looks to be in very good shape. I have flushed the brake fluid, put on new clutch and throttle cables, new throttle tube as well.
  16. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Life is for good friends and great adventures Supporter

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    Don’t ride it any more until you’ve checked whether the carb is leaking fuel into the oil. Also check the oil level after running for a couple of minutes and checking the dipstick. If you’ve had fuel leaking into the engine or someone has overfilled the oil - that would account for the oil smoke.
  17. dbarale

    dbarale Squiddly slow

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    It’s usually what people use. Known as “wet weight”. Gas is 6lbs/gal. So if you need to get somewhere to weight it just put one gallon in and subtract 6lbs.

    Mine, which is pretty stripped down, weighed at 278 wet (on some high end intercomp race scales).
  18. mwitt08

    mwitt08 Adventurer

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    Getting ready to look into all this once I get a free weekend.

    I had the bike out again today and really only felt the crunch in 2nd and 3rd gear. And it wasn’t consistent.

    Who knows what I’m going to find in there.




    Also, I’d like the groups opinion. There’s a 1992 model on Facebook listed at $550. Stated to have big bore high compression head end work done plus some other new work. It looks like shit, almost no plastics, but is stated to be running fine.

    Is the cost worth it to having around for a part bike. I assume the big bore is swappable to my 1997 SE?
  19. Friedom

    Friedom Onward and upward!

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    Fluid is being pushed out the crank case breather hose into your airbox which generally means that there's too much of it in the crank case. Either someone didn't know how to properly check the oil so they added too much, or your gas is flowing past the petcock and fuel valve seat o ring, into the cylinder and into the crank case oil.
    Needs addressed.

    90-93 and 94-99 had different cylinders, cams, clutch basket gear ratios, and a few other items.
    Ibraz and Boblosi111 like this.
  20. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Life is for good friends and great adventures Supporter

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    $550 for a runner is a good deal. You can pick up a parts bike with a trashed cylinder head quite easily if you want to make a good second bike.

    Caution! ...It’s a slippery slope. I once had no less than five XS650’s because I saw parts bikes, good deals, etc.
    buzzword and Boblosi111 like this.