DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. Ibraz

    Ibraz Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2017
    Oddometer:
    396
    Location:
    Québec
    Don’t know if it’s worth it.
    The DR only is my second bike, still have my Versys 650. Both were supposed to be in « perfect » condition. I’ve since then discovered re painted plastics, evidence of a tow truck winch chain on a rim, BLACK brake fluid, leaking break calipers, dead chains, bent handlebars, dried out carb o-rings, faulty radiator cap etc etc...

    Spare parts are good only if they are in good condition, and a seller’s apperctation of the state of a bike is worth nothing. YMMV.
    Boblosi111 likes this.
  2. Boblosi111

    Boblosi111 Adventurer Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2019
    Oddometer:
    15
    Location:
    Indiana
    My first Dr I picked up was a 1992 dr250s new piston, rings, valve job only 3231 miles on the bike and clean. Lots of new stuff battery, petcock, tires. But the previous owner claimed it needed to be timed, he claimed the shop that did the work didn't have the service manual to time it and he got the bike back not running and lost interest in it. I asked lots of questions before I made the hour an a half drive to see it. All made sense price was right so It became mine. The bike is now my parts bike ,because for some reason the valve cover that po must have replaced was off a 94' or newer dr with Auto decompression. And not compatible with the 92' manual decompression head. Finding that valve cover was like finding a unicorn. In searching for one I ended up buying my first 91' dr350s which is one of two running 91' 350s I own now. Just short of the jug and head the 250 is a compatible parts bike for the 350's all three pre 94' model's. The past 7 months have been quite the learning process. Thanks to forum's like this one I've been enjoying the bikes and experience very much. Learning something new all the time.
    P.S. pictures can make a bike look a lot cleaner then they actually are in person.
    Ibraz likes this.
  3. abraham_lincoln

    abraham_lincoln Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2019
    Oddometer:
    84
    Location:
    USA
    Hi everyone, recent new owner of a 95 DR350SE. Was wondering if anyone had good suggestions for some full top & side racks.. looking to mount some panniers in the future

    I've only been able to find 1 rack on ebay so far but would like to look at more options. Looking to gear up over the winter to do some trips around the state next spring! Already came with an oversized tank which is nice among some other things, just nothing for storage.
    +venture likes this.
  4. +venture

    +venture Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2019
    Oddometer:
    46
    Location:
    Eastern Long Island
  5. everready

    everready Stuck in Ohio....Ugh!!!

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    Jul 1, 2013
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    Location:
    Macedonia, Ohio
    Sound like your carb is filthy. I recommend pulling the carb and give it a THOROUGH cleaning. How old is the gas that you're running? What does the air filter look like?
    You should also check the valves. The valve specs vary from year to year and model. Ensure you have the correct values for your bike!
    Heck, that bikes needs a complete going over. Get to wrenching..........
    http://www.thisoldtractor.com/dr350_workshop_manuals___shop_manuals___service_manuals.html
  6. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Life is for good friends and great adventures Supporter

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2003
    Oddometer:
    10,878
    Location:
    Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
    I have one of the rare and gorgeous pro-moto-billet racks in a box in my shop. Scored the last brand new one in existence about 10 years ago. The buyer of my 94 didn't want it and I planned to swap it to my 96 but never got around to it. Make me an offer, if interested.
  7. abraham_lincoln

    abraham_lincoln Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2019
    Oddometer:
    84
    Location:
    USA
    Send me some pics and I'll give it some thought. Is there a ballpark you're looking to get for it? Also how do you guys transfer money over online, just paypal or something? (I'm pretty new to this stuff)
  8. windsurfer

    windsurfer Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 15, 2008
    Oddometer:
    114
    Location:
    Tacoma
    I've changed the oil and filter. The air filter doesn't look bad but I will change it. I don't think excess oil is the issue. Next, a thorough carb cleaning and install a Dynojet kit.
    everready likes this.
  9. V-Stormer

    V-Stormer Bush Basher

    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2009
    Oddometer:
    365
    Location:
    Vancouver Island, Canada
    Have you checked the compression?
  10. gripnripper

    gripnripper Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2018
    Oddometer:
    40
    Location:
    SW Indiana
    Okay, so I need some help with my 1998 DR350SE - if you're willing and patient. Here's the backstory: Got the bike last spring with only 1100 miles on odometer. The bike ran okay but there was some hesitation on acceleration and a hanging idle, figured the carb (BST33) just needed cleaning and adjusted. Started digging. Cleaned & rebuilt carbs, replaced a bunch of parts including all o-rings., adjusted float height, stayed with stock jetting. Put her back together, still ran the same. Still digging. Plugs were carbon fouled. Failed leak down test...miserably. Took the top end apart and took it to my local motorcycle/machine shop guy. He said the cylinder was ovaled and valve seats were singed. Valve guides and seats were fine. So had cylinder overbored 0.5 mm and honed and valves lapped. So, to date I've done the following in terms of engine and carb:

    - Carb cleaned, virtually all new parts including needle valve and seat and all o-rings replaced. Stock jetting and float height. New carb boot on engine side. New choke plunger.
    - replaced stock vacuum petcock with Raptor petcock
    - Twin Air air filter, oiled properly
    - cylinder overbored and honed, new piston, rings, gaskets, etc.
    - valves lapped, new valve stem seals
    - stock exhaust with Keintech-ish mod (see description: https://advrider.com/f/threads/dr350se-stock-exhaust-mod.1380693/)
    - fresh dino oil (about 1.8 L) and filter
    - air box snorkel removed

    Buttoned her back up, checked valve clearances, and started with the mixture screw set at 1.0 turns out (which I know is lean but I wanted to start there). It started right up, no choke necessary (it was 60 deg F here). Took it out for a break-in ride, varying RPMs but nothing too aggressive but also not letting the engine "lug". There was a slight bog on acceleration, but it otherwise ran okay - but throttle response was not as crisp as it should have. I rode for 30 minutes or so, or about 15-20 miles. Got back home, let it sit for a minute, and checked the oil with the bike upright. Immediately, I detected what I believe was a gasoline smell in the oil. Oh, boy. Checked the spark plug, it looked pretty good, if not a little lean, but a far cry from the carbon fouling like before. So I drained the oil, and the exact amount of oil I put in (1.8 L) came back out, so if fuel is making it past the rings, it wasn't a huge volume.

    So to summarize the problems:
    - bike started from cold with no choke --> rich condition
    - bog on acceleration --> rich or lean condition depending several variables, as I understand it. Given that it bogged at 1/3 throttle (est.) or less, I'm leaning towards too rich in pilot circuit as cause, but not sure.
    - oil smells like gas --> excess fuel getting past rings --> rich condition but from what carb circuit?
    - spark plug insulator super clean --> suggests lean condition

    I'm just not sure where to go from here. I have some ideas but I'd like to hear from you all first. Thanks for your help!
  11. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Life is for good friends and great adventures Supporter

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2003
    Oddometer:
    10,878
    Location:
    Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
    Oil smells like gas - if correct would mean carb is probably leaking. Fuel valve could be leaking and/or float height could be incorrect or the float needle valve is still leaking.

    Bike starting with no choke - if all jetting is stock, o-rings and seals are in place and undamaged mixture screw is only 1 turn out - also implies possible fuel leak or overflowing float bowl.

    Due to modern fuels, the spark plug will tell you nothing unless it is super, super rich.

    Put the snorkel back in.

    1998 would be EPA lean and would probably have a slight bog at low throttle / low-to-mid rpm until thoroughly warmed up. Going up one size on the pilot jet and/or switching to the adjustable needle would probably cure it.
  12. everready

    everready Stuck in Ohio....Ugh!!!

    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2013
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    3,312
    Location:
    Macedonia, Ohio
    What's a twin air filter?
  13. plugeye

    plugeye MC rescue

    Joined:
    May 11, 2007
    Oddometer:
    6,586
    Location:
    Garland, Texas USA
    [​IMG]
    everready likes this.
  14. Hamburgerhotdog

    Hamburgerhotdog Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 21, 2016
    Oddometer:
    178
    Location:
    Massachusetts
    BEAUTY.jpg

    I've put my riding to a halt for now! I've been going on afternoon rides each weekend but my local area has gotten dull (nowhere to offroad). Its gotten cold, very wet, and I had <15mph fall in traffic, turning from a stop sign. I gave a bit too much gas (traffic moves quick, it's a main "highway"), lost the rear, over-corrected, and came off the bike in the oncoming lane. That was a first. I'm fine (thanks fully armored jacket+helmet) and so is the DR.
    I almost bought a Kawasaki ZZR1200 a couple weeks ago but I'm planning to move out of my hometown and don't need the extra anchor. Instead, I'll have a go at rebuilding my suspension starting with the forks. It's about time. I don't want to start a complete rebuild but I want to freshen it up and get some knobbies back on.
  15. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    7,983
    Location:
    Truckee
    There are a couple of top racks out there. The OE one is the slickest. If you can find one buy it.
    [​IMG]

    The Turbo City Inc rack, now sold to Moose racing is a nice BIG bolt on deal. Able to use to OE grab bar and turn signal mounting locations
    [​IMG]

    The pro moto billet has been mentioned. Don't think they still make them, but someone offers their up
    [​IMG]

    Then there is a whole new crop of flat panel racks out there
    [​IMG]


    Right now the only true side racks right now are made by the Ukrainian company.
    [​IMG]
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Whole-weld...362029?hash=item5478c3f8ed:g:efAAAOSwcL5dfR~D

    There is PM rack makes these side "stand off" racks. They are not good for mounting traditional side panniers such are hard boxes. More for throw over saddle bags. I don't see these on their website, but I think they do sell them. They are a bit of a PITA to take your side panels off.
    [​IMG]
    https://www.pmracks.com/products.php?b=Suzuki

    Turbo City Use to make a good 1 piece top and side rack. You can tell it is the same basic rack as the top rack but with sides. I have one of these. Not sure how strong in a tip over, but one member on here runs one and has dropped it many times. Good rack if you can find one used.
    [​IMG]
    https://www.motorcyclegear.com/browse/view_product_images/5945
    plugeye likes this.
  16. mentolio

    mentolio Been here awhile

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    Jul 14, 2016
    Oddometer:
    552
    Wow, glad you're unhurt! Suspension rebuild is a piece of cake, and will make the bike feel/handle better too. I used Race Tech "Super Slick" slider bushings (think that's what they call them) in both the forks and shock and can recommend them. Unsure what year your DR is, so if a later model may have cartridge forks, which complicates it a little, but still pretty easy and so worth doing.
  17. abraham_lincoln

    abraham_lincoln Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2019
    Oddometer:
    84
    Location:
    USA


    Thanks for this. I like the one from the Ukrainian company, I'm still not sure whether I want to do soft or hard luggage yet though as they both have their pro's and con's. I mainly want to do some trips around the state next spring/summer (Oregon) so I won't be needing a ton of gear to bring with me.

    Was almost thinking of buying some of the Harbor Freight Pelican cases and a pipe bender and making my own setup. Would probably come out costing about the same if not less and would make for a fun project
  18. everready

    everready Stuck in Ohio....Ugh!!!

    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2013
    Oddometer:
    3,312
    Location:
    Macedonia, Ohio
    Man that looks almost identical to my bike. I got rid of that ugly rear fender extension though.
    I'd probably just change the fork oil, unless you're really big. That oil has been in there, who know how long...
  19. V-Stormer

    V-Stormer Bush Basher

    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2009
    Oddometer:
    365
    Location:
    Vancouver Island, Canada
    I ended up making my own top and pannier racks and it was a fun and rewarding project. I have a really cheap MIG welder for just this kind of stuff and it worked fine. I fashioned the top rack after the OEM rack, but wanted more top surface area so I made it rectangular instead of a trapezoid like the OEM was.

    I fashioned the side racks after the Givi Monokey system for the E21 cases, but I used a different locking system with locking knobs from bicycle carry racks. I designed it so I could go back to the Monokey system if I wanted to. I used to have E21 and large pelican cases for a V-Strom which is why I fashioned the racks after Givi. I sold the E21's with the V-Strom, but they were good top loading cases with locks and I'd use them again if I had to replace the pelican style ones (which are more sturdy).

    I use both hard cases and soft bags on my DR and R1200GS. Hard cases for the DR are "Pelican like" cases ($40 ea) and I use them for around town and road trips where I'm not doing anything close to technical riding. For off-road and adventure touring/camping, I use Mosko Moto bags (which I really like) and a small pelican like top case for my electronics, maps, shaving kit, etc. I bought the Mosko Moto bags on their own without the mounting system and fabricated aluminum mounting plates for them to fit my racks. I can swap between cases in minutes on the DR or take them off for an unencumbered bike-only ride. With the GS, I mostly use the OEM expandable hard cases, but I have Givi racks for that bike too and can use the same cases or soft bags that I use on the DR. Lots of options.

    photo 2.jpg IMG_3690.JPG hard cases side view.png hard cases top view.png

    I just used soft steel tubing and hand tubing benders I rented from an equipment rental place. A lot of the corners were only done as a 90 degree or U shaped and then welded together. It's quite tricky to get everything bent exactly right and match up when trying to make a full rectangle, etc. So I found making it in pieces and welding those together with a smaller rod inside to line them up was better than trying to bend the full shape. I'm a better grinder than welder, so if the welds looked messy but were structurally sound, I ground off the junky lumps and filled the welds with JB Weld epoxy before painting the racks. I used a two-part automotive paint for the top rack to match the frame paint colour and black epoxy appliance paint for the side racks so they'd blend in better. The first pic above is from when I was building the racks so they're not painted at that stage yet.
    Greg Bender and hellotimmutton like this.
  20. mwitt08

    mwitt08 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2018
    Oddometer:
    67
    Location:
    Dayton, Ohio
    I just borrowed a pipe bender for this exact thing.

    I’m trying to figure out a way to make the rack easily removable, with a back rest for highway, and to double as a camp chair.

    If I manage to make something to strap a bag to I’ll call it a success.