DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Life is for good friends and great adventures Supporter

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    Oil smells like gas - if correct would mean carb is probably leaking. Fuel valve could be leaking and/or float height could be incorrect or the float needle valve is still leaking.

    Bike starting with no choke - if all jetting is stock, o-rings and seals are in place and undamaged mixture screw is only 1 turn out - also implies possible fuel leak or overflowing float bowl.

    Due to modern fuels, the spark plug will tell you nothing unless it is super, super rich.

    Put the snorkel back in.

    1998 would be EPA lean and would probably have a slight bog at low throttle / low-to-mid rpm until thoroughly warmed up. Going up one size on the pilot jet and/or switching to the adjustable needle would probably cure it.
  2. everready

    everready Stuck in Ohio....Ugh!!!

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    What's a twin air filter?
  3. plugeye

    plugeye MC rescue

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    [​IMG]
    everready likes this.
  4. Hamburgerhotdog

    Hamburgerhotdog Been here awhile

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    Massachusetts
    BEAUTY.jpg

    I've put my riding to a halt for now! I've been going on afternoon rides each weekend but my local area has gotten dull (nowhere to offroad). Its gotten cold, very wet, and I had <15mph fall in traffic, turning from a stop sign. I gave a bit too much gas (traffic moves quick, it's a main "highway"), lost the rear, over-corrected, and came off the bike in the oncoming lane. That was a first. I'm fine (thanks fully armored jacket+helmet) and so is the DR.
    I almost bought a Kawasaki ZZR1200 a couple weeks ago but I'm planning to move out of my hometown and don't need the extra anchor. Instead, I'll have a go at rebuilding my suspension starting with the forks. It's about time. I don't want to start a complete rebuild but I want to freshen it up and get some knobbies back on.
  5. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    There are a couple of top racks out there. The OE one is the slickest. If you can find one buy it.
    [​IMG]

    The Turbo City Inc rack, now sold to Moose racing is a nice BIG bolt on deal. Able to use to OE grab bar and turn signal mounting locations
    [​IMG]

    The pro moto billet has been mentioned. Don't think they still make them, but someone offers their up
    [​IMG]

    Then there is a whole new crop of flat panel racks out there
    [​IMG]


    Right now the only true side racks right now are made by the Ukrainian company.
    [​IMG]
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Whole-weld...362029?hash=item5478c3f8ed:g:efAAAOSwcL5dfR~D

    There is PM rack makes these side "stand off" racks. They are not good for mounting traditional side panniers such are hard boxes. More for throw over saddle bags. I don't see these on their website, but I think they do sell them. They are a bit of a PITA to take your side panels off.
    [​IMG]
    https://www.pmracks.com/products.php?b=Suzuki

    Turbo City Use to make a good 1 piece top and side rack. You can tell it is the same basic rack as the top rack but with sides. I have one of these. Not sure how strong in a tip over, but one member on here runs one and has dropped it many times. Good rack if you can find one used.
    [​IMG]
    https://www.motorcyclegear.com/browse/view_product_images/5945
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  6. mentolio

    mentolio Been here awhile

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    Wow, glad you're unhurt! Suspension rebuild is a piece of cake, and will make the bike feel/handle better too. I used Race Tech "Super Slick" slider bushings (think that's what they call them) in both the forks and shock and can recommend them. Unsure what year your DR is, so if a later model may have cartridge forks, which complicates it a little, but still pretty easy and so worth doing.
  7. abraham_lincoln

    abraham_lincoln Adventurer

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    Thanks for this. I like the one from the Ukrainian company, I'm still not sure whether I want to do soft or hard luggage yet though as they both have their pro's and con's. I mainly want to do some trips around the state next spring/summer (Oregon) so I won't be needing a ton of gear to bring with me.

    Was almost thinking of buying some of the Harbor Freight Pelican cases and a pipe bender and making my own setup. Would probably come out costing about the same if not less and would make for a fun project
  8. everready

    everready Stuck in Ohio....Ugh!!!

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    Man that looks almost identical to my bike. I got rid of that ugly rear fender extension though.
    I'd probably just change the fork oil, unless you're really big. That oil has been in there, who know how long...
  9. V-Stormer

    V-Stormer Bush Basher

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    I ended up making my own top and pannier racks and it was a fun and rewarding project. I have a really cheap MIG welder for just this kind of stuff and it worked fine. I fashioned the top rack after the OEM rack, but wanted more top surface area so I made it rectangular instead of a trapezoid like the OEM was.

    I fashioned the side racks after the Givi Monokey system for the E21 cases, but I used a different locking system with locking knobs from bicycle carry racks. I designed it so I could go back to the Monokey system if I wanted to. I used to have E21 and large pelican cases for a V-Strom which is why I fashioned the racks after Givi. I sold the E21's with the V-Strom, but they were good top loading cases with locks and I'd use them again if I had to replace the pelican style ones (which are more sturdy).

    I use both hard cases and soft bags on my DR and R1200GS. Hard cases for the DR are "Pelican like" cases ($40 ea) and I use them for around town and road trips where I'm not doing anything close to technical riding. For off-road and adventure touring/camping, I use Mosko Moto bags (which I really like) and a small pelican like top case for my electronics, maps, shaving kit, etc. I bought the Mosko Moto bags on their own without the mounting system and fabricated aluminum mounting plates for them to fit my racks. I can swap between cases in minutes on the DR or take them off for an unencumbered bike-only ride. With the GS, I mostly use the OEM expandable hard cases, but I have Givi racks for that bike too and can use the same cases or soft bags that I use on the DR. Lots of options.

    photo 2.jpg IMG_3690.JPG hard cases side view.png hard cases top view.png

    I just used soft steel tubing and hand tubing benders I rented from an equipment rental place. A lot of the corners were only done as a 90 degree or U shaped and then welded together. It's quite tricky to get everything bent exactly right and match up when trying to make a full rectangle, etc. So I found making it in pieces and welding those together with a smaller rod inside to line them up was better than trying to bend the full shape. I'm a better grinder than welder, so if the welds looked messy but were structurally sound, I ground off the junky lumps and filled the welds with JB Weld epoxy before painting the racks. I used a two-part automotive paint for the top rack to match the frame paint colour and black epoxy appliance paint for the side racks so they'd blend in better. The first pic above is from when I was building the racks so they're not painted at that stage yet.
    Greg Bender and hellotimmutton like this.
  10. mwitt08

    mwitt08 Adventurer

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    I just borrowed a pipe bender for this exact thing.

    I’m trying to figure out a way to make the rack easily removable, with a back rest for highway, and to double as a camp chair.

    If I manage to make something to strap a bag to I’ll call it a success.
  11. abraham_lincoln

    abraham_lincoln Adventurer

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    Wow those came out really nice, right along the lines of what I'm wanting to do as well. I think making my own rack would be a lot of fun and allow for some personalization to fit my needs


    Just got back from my 1st test ride outside the neighborhood up some dirt roads. I've been a little weary gaining trust with a new bike, learning it's ins and outs making sure everything's solid. So far though the engine starts right up, idles good and pulls strong. No major leaks although a couple seeping leaks that are pretty minor and easy to fix

    [​IMG]

    Really the only issue I've discovered so far was I was hearing this weird noise while riding and it turned out my starter was stuck turned on. I think it drained my battery cause it was only at 8 volts when I got home (had it topped off a couple day before). Hopefully it's just the starter issue causing the low battery and not a problem charging (going to dissassemble the switch and renew with electronic cleaner). The previous owner said he did a mod so that it can run without the battery cause he got stranded once due to a battery terminal breaking on him out in the desert (if anyone has info on this mod I'd like to know more about it)

    All in all though I'm freaking loving this bike. It's a huge upgrade in power from my previous '83 Honda XL200R. Also liking the grip warmers, oversized tank and race tech front suspension upgrade. Put some fresh oil in it the other day and will be getting a new chain pretty soon. Once it's fitted for some luggage, new chain and AUX lights I'm looking to do some really fun road trips this upcoming spring!

    For $1,300 (he was asking $1.8k) I think I got a pretty good deal!
  12. gripnripper

    gripnripper Adventurer

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    I agree that the the float mechanism is the likely culprit with fuel overflowing from the float bowl, which is why I'm perplexed. I've replaced every part and o-ring in the carb, except the float itself. I've checked the float height and confirmed it's right on. I tested the needle valve and seat seal by removing the carb and removing the float bowl, hooking up a hose to where the fuel flows into the carb, and blowing into the fuel intake while lifting the float until it seals (if that makes sense). It seems to be sealing perfectly. Plus, if excessive fuel was flowing from the carb into the engine, wouldn't my spark plug be fouled? But starting without choke, that would suggest way too much fuel, which would make sense. I just can't make any sense of it. Some symptoms point to being too rich, some seem to suggest too lean. I guess I'll take it all apart and check everything again. Thanks for your feedback slartidbartfast.

    I'd still appreciate any feedback you all might have. Thanks!
  13. V-Stormer

    V-Stormer Bush Basher

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    Thanks and yes, your purchase looks like a good deal with all the things already added to it. Not sure on the mod to make it run without a battery, as mine does that from stock. :scratch In fact just recently I had a battery connector issue when the lights, accessories and tachometer would suddenly stop working while I was riding, but the bike would keep running. It would do that intermittently until I figured out what it was and replaced the battery connectors. BTW - You might want to change that chain sooner than later. It looks to be in rough shape and also quite loose. I'd suggest looking out for a used sprocket cover. You wouldn't want to get some clothing caught in there. But the bike overall is already quite a ways along modification wise with the other things you mention. I did the same thing . . . just tweaked and added things over time. I'm now $6k+ and counting over the purchase price. LOL!!! :loco
  14. abraham_lincoln

    abraham_lincoln Adventurer

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    Hmm interesting about the battery ordeal. But then again I was still half asleep and zoned out for a minute while he was talking about it (he delivered to my house @ 6a.m. cause he was passing through town (saved me a 3hr round trip :D)) so I didn't catch what exactly he said. He may have just upgraded the capacitor or something perhaps. It is the SE model so not sure if that has anything to do with it.

    Also I've a gold plated x-ring chain in my shopping cart now along with about $100 worth of other tid bits, was just wanting to ensure the motor and trans was solid before dumping money into it. After today's run though I think I'm clear to go forward. Very stoked on the longer trips in store, the XL200R is a great starter bike but the 5spd/60mph top speed really held me back from longer rides with comfort

    Obligatory Honda shout out:
    [​IMG]
  15. V-Stormer

    V-Stormer Bush Basher

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    That's a cool looking first bike! I like it. . . . The DR uses a dual magneto/AC alternator setup, so there are two sections to the stator. One supplies spark, the other supplies charging for the battery and running accessories. That's why it can still run without a battery. Perhaps he was just mentioning this and the new information sounded like he had done some kind of mod.

    Glad to see you're getting a good chain right off the bat. That's the same one I use. Here's an example of what I was referring to regarding a front sprocket cover. The other piece with it is a keeper/guard for in front of the chain. It keeps the chain on the sprocket if it ever becomes too loose and can often protect the stator cover if a chain breaks, so it's a good thing to have. I think the price listed on this example is a little steep, (considering you can get an entire rear wheel with sprocket and rotor for about $100), but they come up quite often. I still prefer a chain guard on the swing arm as well, if for nothing else to help keep crap off the chain and lube oil from the chain from getting all over the bike.

    You're going to really enjoy the DR and farkeling it. It's simple to work on, not too expensive for parts/upgrades and a great all-round, fun bike to ride. I have a BMW R1200GS as well and if I could have only one bike, it would be the DR.
    Boblosi111 likes this.
  16. 685

    685 Scarred Adventurer

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    My brother visited here (Tucson) for a long weekend. From Reno, where it's trending to cooler, tho nothing like the east. We rode out to Sagauro National Park and beyond, the park entrance is only 5 miles from my place. The Sonora desert here is more like a jungle--Sagauro, Prickley Pear, Cholla cactus, and Mesquite, Palo Verde, and Greasewood trees. Green and beautiful, we had recent fall rain, temp in the low 80's. The road, Old Soldiers Trail, is gentle curves, mostly great, smooth surface, riding was almost a religious experience and I got that feeling in my chest of "Yeah, this is what attracted me to riding almost 50 years ago.

    I'm gonna be 68 in less than a month, giving up riding was in the back of my mind. I started out in 71 on a 67 T250, the X6 Scrambler. Rare then, really rare now. And now, almost 50 years later, after riding a Transalp, large displacement big bikes, and ST1100 (top heavy turds) I'm back with a 97 DR 350, I got in about 2015. I wanted one since riding my brother's back in the 90's and finally got a one owner, from a guy my age, who used it as his camp bike. Low mileage, bone stock, and not at all clapped out.

    I've renewed my fandom of the DR350. It's fast enough and very light. Except for putting a pumper carb on it and pending tires and a chain, it's the way it was born. It doesn't disappoint. And takes me back to the beginning of my riding heritage. It is as good as it gets for me. And I'll take the oath: I'll never sell my wonderful Suzuki! (So much better than the KLRs I own or have owned in the past.)

    So much on the forums is aimed towards "improving" our motorcycles--I've been guilty in the past. Suzuki pretty much got the DR350 perfect.
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  17. hoffguy

    hoffguy n00b

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    For just a top rack, I have a manracks rack and really like it. It's the closest thing I could find to the OE one.

    https://www.manracks.com/suzuki-dr350
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  18. abraham_lincoln

    abraham_lincoln Adventurer

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    I currently have a 15T front sprocket on the bike, if I were to put a 16T would I need to get a bigger chain guide? From as far as I can tell the sprocket is just held in place with a ring clip so I've been thinking of carrying a 14T and 16T and swapping in between whether I'm going to be riding more road or dirt. I will definitely be looking into finding a sprocket cover.. I could only imagine the hell it'd cause if my pants of shoelace were to get wrapped up in there D:

    Also are there any recommended aftermarket tach/speedo's out there? The one that's on there currently is speedo only and rarely reads an accurate speed let alone any speed at all. I would really like just a stock speed/tach but I've seen those running $250+. I'm able to ride just by sound and feel but it'd be nice knowing what RPM's I'm at and how close to redline since I would like to use this a little bit on the freeway (~70mph)
  19. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    15t is the biggest you can go "stock". The cover includes a case saver meant to jam up the chain in case it breaks, so that it doesn't bust the engine. The SE had one that would accommodate a 15th. The S would only accommodate a 14. You can grind out the SE case save so that it can work with a 16t. Because of this you can getnerally only find 15t as the biggest listed for a dr350. I think one of the other suzuki DS bikes fits: DRZ400?

    I swap between 13/14/15. I can use the same chain, just need to make an adjustment to the tension. I can also swap between a 41 and 43 rear with the same chain. 13/43 vs 15/41 is a whole different bike. I avoid 16 because I don't want to grind down the already thin case saver which saved my case twice (well once for each DR). And don't go down lower than 13 because it starts to wear the chain more making that tight bend. For the rear is you have a cush drive hub (kind of looks like it) 41 is the lowest you can get. I think you might be able to find one with a tooth or 2 lower but not listed for our bikes. Some Dr member also made his own 38(?). But the allen head were touching the chain.

    Speaking of which you should pull that chain tighter. I know you said you are getting a new chain, but in the mean time pull it in a click or 2 on the chain tension snail adjuster.

    If you really want to turn your bike into a hwy cruiser and 41/15 is not high enough , you can swap out your primary gear (and matching clutch basket gear) to the S (90-93) and get even higher.


    As for speedo, here is one for $150. Do you still have a key ignition if you don't have the OE instrument cluster.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/97-SUZUKI-...130542?hash=item547095fc6e:g:6bAAAOSw-PFc8aY9

    I ditched my OE speedo years ago, but I is a nice unit. Most aftermarket people use the trail tech vapor or similar. I have one that I am not very fond of. Wires keep getting ripped out and the tach never works right. Aftermarket forks and triple so no stock mounting location.

    On my 95E I went with a cheap bike computer. I REALLY like it. So simple and has never given me issue. Don't get the wireless ones too much distance between the disk and the bar, and it wont work. Even the wired ones will need to have the wire lengthened.

    as far as red line goes you are probably not close. redline is at 9K. at 7K the bike sounds/feels like the piston is going to rip through the head. I think there is also a rev limiter built into the CDI. I have never hit it before.
  20. abraham_lincoln

    abraham_lincoln Adventurer

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    All good info. I guess if I feel the need to change out sprockets maybe I'll start by dropping the rear then switch with a 14 and 15 up front to compensate. I'm a little surprised I'm able to pull uphill in 6th gear in this thing, I feel I can heighten the gearing without much power loss. I've a feeling the previous owner did some jetting cause he chopped a square hole straight out the top of the airbox.

    Also the current dash is custom made, basically a painted sheet of metal with LED's for the brights, neutral and blinker drilled into it with a mount for the AM speedo and a section for the ignition and grip heater switch.



    I do have slight oil leaks I'd like to fix up, it's a little hard to pinpoint where it's coming from because the airflow is spraying the seeping oil around.. but as far as I can tell I believe it's coming from the external oil lines highlighted in the image below (had already wiped it down before taking the photo, but it seems to be pooling around this section)

    [​IMG]

    Now does this braided oil line screw into the metal fitting? Is there an o-ring I can replace? Is it possible to just put a layer of Hondabond around the seal? Or is this one entire unit that needs to be replaced as a whole? It's not leaking at a high rate but is seeping more than I'm comfortable with which left a couple oil drops on the ground after parking today.