DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. abraham_lincoln

    abraham_lincoln Been here awhile

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    I was really hoping my next bike would have stock analog speedo and tach and was honestly a little bummed when I learned this bike didn't have them. My first bike was a speedo only and although tach's aren't necessary I still think it'd be nice to have anyways.

    The current speedo is a digital aftermarket one and the it jumps all over the place. Sometimes it'll read an accurate speed but most the time it's jumping from 15mph to 80mph when I'm cruising at like 50, or sometimes just shows 0mph. Not the end of the world for me but something I'd like to address in the future once the necessities are fixed up.



    All I know about these forks is that they're "Race Tech" brand. Beyond that I'm not really too sure, although the seller did tell me they're fully adjustable but I don't even know anything about doing that either lol. My 1st bike was bone simple and I just got on it and rode, so having all these options for fine-tuning it really cool but also a bit over my head at the moment

    Also one of the big selling points for this bike was that it's electric start and kickstart, which I wasn't going to buy a dualsport without a kickstart so the electric start is an added plus. Although the starter button was getting stuck on and was draining my battery while riding. Disassembled the switch assembly, cleaned it out with electrical cleaner and re-soldered some fraying connections and so far so good
    Boblosi111 likes this.
  2. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    Race tech is a tuning company not a fork making company. Pretty sure those are Showa forks. Take a picture of the top cap and the measure the upper slider (chrome) diameter. It will give us a clue as to what forks those are.

    Does the front wheel have a speedo drive gear on the axle? I am guess that is either a DRZ400 wheel (which would) or a RM250/450 wheel (which it wouldn't). You can still probably add a speedo drive gear and an analog speedo.
    [​IMG]
  3. V-Stormer

    V-Stormer Bush Basher

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    The OEM instrument cluster does come up on eBay and other sites once in a while.
  4. Jeff@TheQuadShop

    Jeff@TheQuadShop TAT survivor

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    Those are 96 RM125/250 forks.
  5. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    I read this when you first wrote it, and again just now. Great article as always.

    "...kick the engine over a bunch of times before starting it to get the oil circulating..."

    Ha ha. Not any more for you.

    This picture caught my attention. The engine mounting plate looks odd. I don't recall that extra bracket and the rubber bumper (looks like the ones on the muffler to stand off the plastic side panels). Is this related to a dirt version's gas tank mount?

    [​IMG]
    abraham_lincoln and Greg Bender like this.
  6. plugeye

    plugeye MC rescue

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    yes, i think its a damper for the dirt tank
  7. abraham_lincoln

    abraham_lincoln Been here awhile

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    From what it appears I don't think it does have a speedo gear. Which without that how does a digital speedo know the speed?

    [​IMG]

    Also here's the best shot of the top of the forks I could get. Your guy's guess would be better than mine:

    [​IMG]


    And the dash I'm working with:

    [​IMG]
  8. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    You can not see it in that picture but from your previous one, you can see the magnetic pick up. Yellow arrow. And one rotor bolt has been replaced with a magnetic bolt. yellow circle.
    reHNY5a.jpg

    That fork could have also come off a DRZ400 (same lowers) However that top cap only came on the dual chamber 96-98 RM250 (150 and 450).

    I know cause that is the fork I run on my 94SE
    IMG_0023.JPG
  9. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    Yep, definitely a dirt model thing.

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
  10. abraham_lincoln

    abraham_lincoln Been here awhile

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    Interesting deal with the magnetic reader. Does the stock tachometer work via cable or does it use something similar to the aftermarket speedo?

    The more I learn about the bike the more I realize how much previous owners have done to it. On one hand it'd be nice to have a fully stock bike but at the same time it saves me from a lot of money upgrading it myself.

    From a noobs standpoint what difference is there in the stock front suspension and the one's we have on our bikes? Are they just more adjustable? Or more off-road oriented?


    ----------------

    Also, for those of you who've changed the sprockets for something more road-orientated like a 16/41 16/43.. what kind of RPM's are you running at 70-75mph? Do you still have decent acceleration at those speeds? Is hopping on the freeway for an hour or so tolerable?

    I know it's a light bike but I'd like to do some road trips and wondering if this bike would be decent enough at it. For example a trip to Yosemite would be great but that's about a 500 mile distance for me one way and there are sections where I'd probably have to take the freeway to pass mountain ranges
  11. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Life is for good friends and great adventures Supporter

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    I had a big-bore DR that required a very significant gearing up to work best on the road. My stock SE seems to be fine with stock gearing. It’s not especially happy on the highway and really struggled to maintain speed on high altitude passes (45mph flat out at 10,000 feet on one steep section) but it will handle it.

    Two issues come to mind:
    1. The stock seat will NOT work for most people. Seat Concepts fixed that completely for me; and
    2. They use more oil at sustained high rpm so you have to make frequent checks.
  12. V-Stormer

    V-Stormer Bush Basher

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    I concur . . . while I did a seat mod myself, it's wider and much like the Seat Concepts shape. That made all the difference between a sore butt and comfort. The stock seat is just too narrow. I don't find the stock foam to be that bad. So I glued on two triangular pieces of dense foam on the sides, then took an electric knife to shape the front taper and the edges, then wrapped a dense, thin foam over the whole thing. I just stretched a one-piece vinyl cover over it with no stitching. On my WADBDR trip I rode from Victoria to Stevenson, WA on pavement and from Osoyoos BC back to Victoria (total of about 850 mi) on pavement and didn't even notice the seat. That says a lot.

    As for gearing, the 16/41 makes a noticeable difference to me on the highway. RPMs are about 6000-6250 @ 70mph. I find 6000 to be about the comfort margin. Above that it starts getting buzzy. I think the stock 350 engine displacement and CV carb can handle it, but don't expect hard acceleration in 5th or 6th gear at high rpms. With a performance exhaust, opened airbox and jetted CV, it would help at higher rpms with a bit more horsepower for passing. I'm looking forward to trying the taller primary gear on my BB to see if it improves it even more on the highway.
  13. mentolio

    mentolio King of the island of unwanted toys...

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    I’ve seen talk recently about different “primary gears.” What’s up with that? Looks like clutch basket and primary drive gear (on crank)...need anything else? Do the kicker idler and/or oil pump drive gear need to be changed? Are these different gears from different years? Are they the difference between dirt model and dual sport? Sorry if this has been asked before...but I gotta know!
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  14. mwitt08

    mwitt08 Adventurer

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    My $6 EMT rack is coming together.

    A little bigger than I wanted, but it fits on the back without hitting my butt. A 1/2” conduit bender has a radius of 5” so doing 4 bends front to back made the rack 20” long.

    Need to cut down and weld the four couriers where everything comes together. And add a few supports to the tail rack portion.

    I think I’m just going to use tie wire to lash it to the existing rack. I purposely don’t want this to be “structural” so that when I crash it can give a little.

    IMG_0851.jpg IMG_0852.jpg
  15. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    The OE tach gets a signal directly from the CDI. None of the aftermarket tachs have figured out how to read the CDI signal.
    I had a little aftermarket tach on my bike once that would pick up a signal from the spark plug wire. Not super accurate as you accle or decel but enough to give you a reading at a steady cruising speed. the trail tech vapor give a tach reading. Mine doesn't work too well but others have had better luck. Our bikes use a wasted spark system (correct me if I am wrong on this anyone). Thus it sparks twice per cycle. Typically a setting on the tach you need to select.

    Personally I would only run a 15/41 for the road and not deal with the 16.

    You should check what kind of rear shock you have. Chances are it has been upgraded to the dirt shock. You can tell by the lower clevis mount on the linkage. If it is machined aluminum with an adjuster screw it is the "good" one, if it is the welded steel clevis it is the 94-97 SE, which is the worst of the 3 variation of rear shocks spec'ed for our bikes.

    Generally suspension upgrades are for better offroad. Other than brake dive, I feel the stock suspension is fine for road riding; even the SE shock.

    Despite the gearing riding 70-75 is never a pleasant thing on a DR. Almost sounds like you want a more road oriented bike.


    The 90-93 DR350 (ALL versions) had a primary gear reduction of 2.818 (62/22). All 94+ bikes had a 3.2 (64/20) reduction. This is all documented in the workshop manual that you can download from Greg Bender's website (search this old tractor). I did this conversion on one of my bikes and if I recall all you needed was the basket and the primary gear. The oil pump gear is the same. Thing to note is you need to somehow hold the engine while you spin the nut holding the P-gear BACKWARDS (reverse threaded). And a penny jammed between the oil pump gear is NOT what you want to do. The teeth on the oil pump gear will break off. Ask me how I know. I think I impacted the nut off and forgot how I got it back on tight.

    If you are buying this off e-bay do not trust the discription on the year. No one knows what year their bike is. Find the best resolution picture, print it, and count the teeth.
    abraham_lincoln likes this.
  16. V-Stormer

    V-Stormer Bush Basher

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    Nice job on the adapter! . . . I used the Scott weld-on kit because at the time I had painted my frame (wherever visible) from Barney Purple to Black. After welding it on, only a paint touch up was required. I concur with you on the benefits of the damper . . . I added mine to avoid another wrist/elbow injury when the front wheel got tweaked hard and fast unexpectedly in a dry stream bed crossing that caused an injury that took 6+ months to heal and affected my ability to clutch. After installing the damper, I too found it stabilized the front end at high speed on the highway and on gravel, in deep sand, etc. I hardly notice it with normal riding until the wheel wants to quickly move in an unwanted way and it kicks in. I have it set higher than a friend likes, but to me it just makes the front end handle like a bigger, heavier bike without the added weight.
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  17. V-Stormer

    V-Stormer Bush Basher

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    It's been discussed on this forum for years. I'll let you know for certain after I try installing mine, but from what I've read it's a bolt-in thing and doesn't interfere with anything. I'm hoping that is the case. I have a '96 se with a kick starter added. I'm not sure on your other questions around models, model years, etc., but a quick search of this thread should provide that info.
  18. plugeye

    plugeye MC rescue

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    the thick primary gear of the taller primary takes the place of the primary gear & oil pump drive gears.
  19. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    Are you using that OE rack to support the side racks. Do you still have the little sticker on it that says Do not exceed "4lbs" HAHAHAHAHa
  20. hellotimmutton

    hellotimmutton Been here awhile

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    if im not mistaken, its parts 21200-14D11 (62 tooth) and 21200-15D21 (64 tooth). I believe its based on year not type. I believe 93 and below had the taller 62 tooth sprocket and 94 and up had the shorter 64, but would be nice for someone to confirm/deny that