DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. The Villain

    The Villain Adventurer

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    Alaska1WD likes this.
  2. The Villain

    The Villain Adventurer

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    ^ Speaking of...
    Any update on this? You'd be an all star of this thread if you dropped a Vortex CAD model on us!
    Alaska1WD likes this.
  3. mentolio

    mentolio Been here awhile

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    Wow, that was fast!
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  4. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    I saw it last night, and didn't buy it. Pricey. 4 days auction or ~$210 buy it now. I guess cheaper than buying a $900 DR350 to get one, that's how I got mine. Wish it was a vortex instead of the OG magic air box.
  5. The Villain

    The Villain Adventurer

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    Oh yeah, way too pricey if it was the Magic...didn't catch that.

    One of these days, someone's gonna figure out another airbox swap that works. I just need an afternoon in a well-stocked moto salvage yard with the OE box and some measuring tools.
  6. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    The Ebay one was a Vortex. I was not clear. Years ago I bought a DR350 for some of its upgrades, including a magic airbox.

    That OE airbox is so convoluted to fit into our frame, around the shock, and act as part of the inner fender linear. I think it will be a difficult to find a replacement that is better without a custom job like the magic/vortex.
  7. plugeye

    plugeye MC rescue

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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    adjusted the valves on the 99 today. previous shop or owner probably got confused with the shop manual, intakes were spot on but exhausts were pre-94 spec
  8. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    Please try again with the pic. I can;t see anything.

    The Clymer shop manuals list the wrong spec for the 94+ valve. TERRIBLE. Good manual otherwise.
    plugeye likes this.
  9. Brett Berisford

    Brett Berisford Been here awhile

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    What are the specs for the later model? Have always set mine to what manual says- .004? .005?
    Bonnie & Clyde likes this.
  10. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    .007-.009
    This is for both the Dirt and the SE
    94+.png

    You can download the factory service manual from Sir Greg Benders website "this old tractor". Search it.
  11. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    Nice moto jack
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  12. Bonnie & Clyde

    Bonnie & Clyde Wishing I was riding RTW

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    Well learned something new. I guess ive been adjusting mine wrong for the last 10 years Note made in my Clymer manual now with adjusted exhaust valve spec
  13. Boblosi111

    Boblosi111 Adventurer Supporter

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    My Dad made one for my tm 100 in the mid 70's fully adjustable worked great. I need to make one for my bikes.
  14. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    I was always curious if this change in spec was due to the newer de comp cam. Or did they learn after 4 years that the old spec was just too tight.
  15. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Life is for good friends and great adventures Supporter

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    I'm pretty sure the spec changed more than once over the years. I went with 0.004 and 0.009 or something like that.
  16. abraham_lincoln

    abraham_lincoln Been here awhile

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    hi everyone, been a little busy lately but I've really been wanting to get my DR into proper shape.

    a couple weeks ago I took off my front caliper and discovered one of the pistons is pretty well stuck in place. should I focus on rebuilding the caliper or should I just buy a whole new unit? can I get new pistons or do I just need new seals and rubbers?

    I know it's be easier just replacing the whole thing but I feel a brand new caliper would probably be pretty expensive and a used one can come with problems of it's own, and I think the back caliper is going to need work as well. I don't own an air.compressor which I've read is needed to remove the pistons.

    I would YouTube some how tos but I recently moved out on my own and only have limited mobile data at the moment so any help is appreciated
  17. mentolio

    mentolio Been here awhile

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    Pistons are still available. Removing a stuck piston is made easier by using compressed air, but as long as you haven't disconnected your caliper from the master cylinder, you can just use the hydraulic pressure to pump the stuck piston out enough to remove it. Just hold the unstuck piston at least partially in with a large Chanel lock plier (or just leave one or both pads in while you do it) as you pump the stuck one free. Easy-Peasey. If memory serves I think the pistons are made of composite (with stainless caps on the end where they contact the inner brake pad), so if you have to grab them with pliers to remove the jaws will likely wreck the pistons.

    Most of the time the pistons are seizing because of a crusty build-up that you will find inside the piston seal grooves. Make sure you scrape all that crusty junk out before installing the new piston seals. Best of luck!
  18. abraham_lincoln

    abraham_lincoln Been here awhile

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    dang well ive already removed both the calipers from the bike so ill try finding an air compressor to remove the pistons I suppose. the screw heads on my front master cylinder are totally stripped so I have to figure out how to get that off as well to refill the reservoir.

    I've found some caliper rebuild kits online for around $20, I guess I'll pick some of those up as soon as I can get the stuck pistons out.

    thanks for the advice, I've gone to a couple local auto mechanics and they have no clue what to do and know nothing about bikes even though I'd assume bike and car calipers aren't that different.

    does anyone know if the rm250 has the same front caliper as the dr350? I have the rm250 forks and I'm not sure if the PO swapped calipers or reused the Dr's caliper. I'll post pics later if I can get them to upload via mobile
  19. Boblosi111

    Boblosi111 Adventurer Supporter

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    I think the screws on the master cylinder are prone to stripping due to corrosion. I had luck cutting a slot in the head of the screw with a cutoff wheel on a Dremel. And using a flat blade screwdriver the heat from cutting the slot helps as well but must be careful. I cut into the cap a little but didn't ruin the cap. The rebuild kit I had supplied new screws. I put a new Tusk cap on anyway. Or you could drill the head of the screws just enough to lift the cap off (just the head of the screw) and remove the rest of the screws with vice grips.
    If you use compressed air be aware not to have fingers in the way and point pistons away from you and harms way. The pistons can shoot out like a bullet. I got a finger stuck in one and found the other piston 15 feet away. Lesson learned lol. A paint stick or file in the caliper would stop the pistons from becoming projectiles.
    Me bet is on you having the RM caliper. IMG_20200125_215331616.jpg IMG_20200125_220535619.jpg IMG_20200125_215403473.jpg IMG_20200125_220459673.jpg IMG_20200125_220451665.jpg IMG_20200125_220846121.jpg
    abraham_lincoln likes this.
  20. buzzword

    buzzword Been here awhile

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    The front Nissin calipers on the DR350 are the same fitment and spec as the brakes on many other manufacturers’ bikes - I had a 2011+ CRF450R caliper and front master on my 99 DR350SE, and also on my 08 XR650L. Just re-use your fork mounting bracket and it will bolt right up.

    Regarding a rebuild - at some point your time is worth something. As such, you can probably find a used caliper on ebay for cheap if the piston is stuck beyond your capability to remove it.