OK thanks guys for the direction, I just ordered a bracket from a 1992 off fleabay, lets see if that can do the trick.
Advice requested: 1995 SE: I have the Keintech extended fuel screw in place. No matter what I do I end up with the carb drooping slightly and the screw resting lightly on the top of the starter housing. I have tried multiple times loosening (and removing and replacing) the carb fixing bands and trying to lft the carb while I tighten them up. At best I get 0.5mm clearance that goes away as the motor runs. It doesn't seem to affect the running too much but can't ultimately be good. Priced out replacement rubber manifold and its over $40 (and no one is shipping to Canada right now, though I could go to the dealer I suppose and pay $80 for it!)....thoughts/tips?
Looks like your rubber bits are a little stiff? I’d suggest pulling both and soaking in Simple Green for a day or two. That stuff can be like magic on old, dry, stiff rubber parts. It can cause them to soften up and fill out a little...might help?
The length May depend on design? Mine is from Procycle, and I think it hangs lower than Mr Pull down’ s even when “bottomed-out.” Of course my bike is a kicker only, and not an issue if it does hang low.
Thanks both Mr P and @mentolio : the screw on mine has always been just a hair above the starter - never as much clearance as Mr P's but a little more than I have now. I think mine may just be a longer screw than yours Mr P, I got it a LONG time ago from Jesse. Perhaps they made them shorter for just this reason and I think a safe answer might be to grind off 1mm from the screw head.
Edit: turns out that's the right plug for a '94. Interesting finding today - instead of the recommended DPR9EA-9 plug, this bike had a CR9EK in it, and was pretty black. Dry fouled. It has had a hesitation at 1/8 to 1/4 throttle. Needle was on the second clip from the bottom. 130 main. Pilot screw 1 turn out. Airbox has a 3x3 hole cut in the top (previous owner's doing), stock exhaust, stock mikuni vacuum carb, K&N filter. Gonna get the recommended plug and see how it runs.
ah crap, I was looking at the wrong model in the service manual. Good catch! Ok so right plug, I'm thinking about closing up that hole in the airbox. I really don't care about the extra .75 hp it renders, I just want it to run smooth through the rpm range.
Not sure what shape your intake is in, but you might be able to use a spacer like the in the TM33 Pumper kit to push it back from the head and away from the starter.
I have a couple friends in the LA area who got their motorcycle licenses about a year ago but never decided on/bought bikes who I've been trying to convince to join the 350 army for a while. Whenever I see a nice example on Craigslist or anything for sale close to them, I'll send em the link with the hopes of sparking some inspiration. The other day I noticed this one up on CL 2hr after it was posted, was super close to me in Santa Barbara. My buddy gave me the green light to grab it for him and I think he really scored! 96 SE with only 3300 miles for only $1900. I think that's a reasonable price for a bike in this condition anywhere, but is definitely a deal here in Southern California. The thing is cleaaaan and stock as stock could be, except for the Clarke tank upgrade. Stock hand guards, stock license plate monstrosity, frame has barely any damage anywhere. All the emissions and warning stickers are still in place. Previous owner just upgraded it to the pumper carb too, which actually pleasantly surprised me on the ride home (mine's an SE with the CV, might have to upgrade now). Title showed that the PO registered it in 2003 with only 550 miles on it then! Kinda jealous of my buddy but also excited to have another riding partner.
Might be the needle's clip position, or the needle. Your specs seem okay. Seems odd for a guy to go up to a 130 tho, 127.5 is stock so that's not much difference... I've taken Hi-Res photos of my DR plug - your outside looks darker BUT your center ceramic part looks lighter vs. mine?!?!? Not sure what that means, but I thought I'd mention it. I'd suspect your needle clip position, I had to do some testing with mine to get it juuust right! It was handy to use a helmet cam on test runs, so I could sort the video/audio that way to make it perfect. Would explain the 1/8 to 1/4 issue as that's needle territory, so to speak. I'd buy a CR9EIX, it's like a platinum or iridium plug and is only a few bucks more. They last a loooong time, kind of the best plug you can buy for a DR.
Interesting, I imagine my plug is pretty old so it's probably just a bunch of buildup. Went ahead and got 2 replacements, one for testing and one for once it's set. Tried dropping the needle one clip, aaaand now it won't stay running without choke... I'll be going the other direction with the next test.
If messing with the needle doesn't work, perhaps your 130 main jet came from a "smaller" manufacturer. A 130 can be between a 120 and a 140 depending on the company!!!?!! It's not a standardized number, like a kilogram or an inch is. Not sure why, but it really does very by that much. I suggest jetsrus.com and pay the extra few dollars for the genuine Mikuni ones. I'd suggest a 132.5, 135, and maybe one more size. Don't do too rich/big, it seems tempting but you lose throttle response and max power and MPG all at the same time. Good luck! Oh and you checked that your other jet is a 37.5 or a 40 and looks good, isn't plugged up?
And smells like crap for the guy following you (running rich). Generally it is Dynojet jets that are "mislabeled". I assume it is because they have their line of jets that fit many makes of carb. Humm if it is a DJ130 then that would correspond to a Mikuni 122 which would be impossibly small. I think you do have a mikuni jet. Try 135. What elevation?
yup 37.5 and clean. 0' elevation Florida.. Handy chart, thanks! yea I have no idea what all was messed with on this carb, part of the mystery of used bikes... Gonna keep messing with the needle clip position before any jet purchases.
I R an Idjet: I firmly believe that when you make a huge stupid, you share it so others can learn.....I solved my issue with the Extended Fuel Screw.....Today I went to remove it to see what could be the issue (and probably to grind off 1mm from the knob if truth be told). I wanted to make sure I checked the setting so I screwed the fuel screw in and counted.....1/2, stop....say what!?! 1/2 turn - that can't be right. My notes say I set it to 2.5 turns.......long story short, I had 2 o rings stacked. Removing one let me set to 2.5 turns and the bike seems to be running fine. Its a crappy day out so will test on a longer ride later this week but the screw has plenty of clearance now - looks about like @MrPulldown 's picture (without all the dirt). It'll probably need fine adjusting too. Anyway, *always* check you got the old O ring out before you replace with a new one!!!
ahh the ol "2 rings down in the hole" issue. Glad you found it. That fine dirt layer (all over everything) was meticulously applied over several hundred dirt miles. Some call it art. Others call it a mess. I call it my dirt life.
