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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.
Rare and expensive are two different things.
$500 shipped conus
Small battery, small starter. Sure it might work and work well when conditions are ideal. Knock that bike over in the mud, in the cold, flood it, and battery not in perfect shape with NO decompression…I think that combination is just increasing the chances of being disappointed and stranded. Risk vs. reward = unnecessary imbalance.
Anyone know if there is an alternate chain guard that would fit a 1998, need it for inspection in my state but can't seem to find one for a reasonable price. Assuming making one with sheet steel for the inspection is probably easier. Any help would be appreciated, Photo to get your attention love this thing.
They actually check that stuff?
In Louisiana, if they look at your bike AT ALL (which they frequently don't) functioning headlamp and (maybe) horn will get you through the inspection.
I've just been riding it around un-inspected, but registered which is fairly common. Trying to go full legit but don't want to have to make multiple trips to an inspection station.
Your in luck. Ramman is selling one for $10
For sale - DR650 and DR350 Parts | Adventure Rider (advrider.com)
Thank you for the notice, still figuring out where everything is on this site.
Guys I'm still reading from the beginning and see that running the engine low on oil can destroy the cam bearing surface pretty quick. I'm only on page 400ish so I haven't seen this asked yet or mentioned, can insert bearings be place in the head for the cam saving an otherwise useless head?
Bearing insert isn't a typical fix. Custom machining/engineering would be costly.
I'd be more inclined to just buff out the cam journals and run it till it blows. I am sure half the Dr's out there have have pretty rough journals.
Somewhere in this thread, (or maybe on maximum suzuki?) a machinist wizard did an oiled bronze cam bearing replacement . It was a rather complex process. I doubt the photos are still up, but hopefully you'll come across the post as you read through.
This place was known for fixing cam journals in the Honda world. I'm sure someone could ask if they'd do the same on the DR's.
I just sent them an email to find out if they service/are willing to service Suzuki. I’ll post here if they reply.
I remember hearing that there were shops that did this kind of repair on the west coast. Basically weld-up some meat on the journals, resurface, and line-bore the weld to factor spec? Haven’t seen this service advertised in decades…maybe there’s a reason? It would be super-sweet if someone started offering this type of repair. I’m tired of passing on “affordable” heads that clearly have journal issues on eBay. I’m cheap, but I’d gladly pay a few hunnert if I knew my journals would be properly aligned and have a like new surface.
I know they are doing inserts in Ford model A engines to replace the "Babbitt" bearings so surely someone could do this to the DR's head at an affordable price. Mine is good but just in case.
There’s a big engine shop in Quebec that does just that.
They overhaul so many atv/marine/bike/sled engines that they have engines ready to ship in exchange of blown ones.
You ship the worn head with new parts (cam, valve seals, valves, (rockers?)) and they weld/machine/assemble the thing.
Their work is supposed to be quote: « OEM quality or superior »
Last DR350 quote I heard is 400CAD + parts + shipping.
Google Cvtech AAB.
Huh, will do. Thanks for the suggestion!
I had a 2-stroke crank (RD400) rebuilt by Cvtech and it was perfectly done, like a brand new crank. I just checked and they have a U.S. shop in Franklin, WI.
Just heard back from “Engine dynamics.” They regret to inform me that while they DO repair aluminum cylinder heads, the DR series of heads are not included.
Is anyone running a 80/20 rear tire? I'm working on a set of wheels that will be for road use, probably 90% of the time. I am having trouble deciding what size tire to run on the rear. I have been very pleased with Shinko 705 tires but they only offer a 120-80 and a 4.10 tire. The 120/80 seems way to big, don't want it to look like a Harley. The 4.10 seems a bit narrow to me. The only 110/100 I have found is made by Fullbore, I have no experience with them regarding quality or ease of mounting on a rim, etc. So tell me what you are running and if you are happy with the tire size and performance on pavement. I like my Kenda 270's but I want something with better grip for faster twisty paved roads.
Shinko 705 is a 90/10 at best - but they are great street tires - Quiet, stick ok in all weathers, wear well, great price. I have run several of the cheap 50/50's without any real issues but I was never excited about them off-road. My DR is currently on D-606,s which are close to being street legal knobbys IMO. I'd call them 30/70s. They wear well and handle surprisingly well but OMG they are LOUD on the street.