Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by vmabuck, Jun 29, 2009.
So I burned my clutch out today.
Any suggestions on aftermarket kits?
How you manage that?
DR clutch holds up pretty well to abuse, in my experience. But I don't fan the
clutch on my DR ... I just carry more speed and torque through the technical stuff and lay off the frickin' clutch ... this ain't your 125cc moto crosser
Stay away from aftermarket CRAP. Get OEM Suzuki clutch plates .....
and if you're a clutch burner, maybe best hire a pro to do this very easy job.
Jeff from Procycle recommended the EBC Dirt Racer kit. He can also get you OEM Suzuki if you prefer those.
never heard of someone burning out a wet clutch! Broken clutch basket but thats about the worst! Share on how you got it right?
Well, I was doing some very tight single track riding. The engine was getting very hot and I was having to work the clutch a lot to get through a lot of sections. What I did notice after the fact was that every now and then my clutch lever would get caught on my handguard and it would not extend out all the way. I don't know how long this situation had been present but it could have had something to do with it.
So, about 2 miles up this single track trail about a half mile from the end I stop to take a picture then go to first to take off and no workey. I let the bike cool down and the guy I was riding with adjusted the clutch. He is a mechanic by trade and said my clutch was to tight.
So a combination of all that I guess. I have never messed with my clutch since the day I bought the bike.
It has always worked fine. Until that day.
Here are some pics of that day for an idea of the type of riding. Real slow, real hot...
it happens. you probably roasted your oil too... so get that out asap.
just R&R with OEM suzuki parts. heard some iffy stories about EBC clutch stack height tolerances lately that caused immediate failure.
Maybe I will just go the OEM route then.
Once I drop the gearing on the bike I don't think I will be having to do as much clutch work as before. And I am hoping the synthetic oil will make a difference on those slow hot sections...
Wow! You guys were really getting into some technical stuff for a DR!
You're explanation covers it all. The lever getting hung up on the hand guard is what did it I'm sure. Been there, done that one too! I've had this happen after a fall, where the bark buster gets moved and now the lever hangs up or can't open all the way .... hence the clutch is dragging constantly as you ride. NOT good.
I too have heard a few negatives regards EBC plates. I would stick with the Suzuki OEM plates. Take a close look at the basket, friction and drive plates too.
looks like fun to me!
Thats how I COOKED my clutch on my XR. It was 101 deg out and we were doing slow tight trail riding with alot of clucth work. But mine failed a day or so later. It did not "quit" but would clip on accel in the higher gears.
I replaced it with the EBC Dirt series clutch with the heavy duty springs.
If you go OEM you will need to get new springs. If you got it hot enough to toast the clutch then you got it hot enough to weaken the springs.
Change the oil a couple times after that too to make sure that you did not have any clutch fibers floating around that could clog the filter.
Looks like you did a good job in the tight stuff. I know my 650 can be tough to handle on trails like that.
What about these Barnett Clutch components?
Anyone have experience with those?
Stevele5 just put in a barnett clutch I think into his mighty dr 650's trip through the rubicon. pm him he'll probably give you some great feedback.
I will do that.
I just got off the phone with Jesse from Kientech and he recommends the OEM parts minus the springs he said get Barnett springs.
Let's see what Steve says...
Steve says good things about the Barnett setup.
Now my only question is this. I need 8 Drive Plates. In the OEM parts manual 7 of them are the same P/N and one, the farthest outboard one, is a different P/N. And another thing, the parts catalog shows the most outboard Drive Plate as having its own P/N but in the service manual it shows the most inboard Drive Plate as having the individual P/N.
I looked at the plates that came off my bike and tell any difference in it. Must be like an inner diameter deal??
Now when you look at the Barnett site they only have one P/N for their replacement Drive Plate for a 2005 DR650. So what is the deal with this lone OEM Drive Plate P/N?
Obviously there is an answer as Steve has put his kit together. I will ask him but if anyone knows until then please hook a brother up.
I need everything, all the Friction Plates, all the Steel Plates and even a new Pressure Disk...
..............that's the weak link.
I remember frying my old 91's "clutch". Warped the plates and sacked the springs.
Went with a Barnett on the advice of Bromely Suzuki in Trevose Pa. and never looked back.
First thing I did when I traded my 91 in on the 97 was upgrade the springs (stiffer) and it went trouble free for over 50,000 miles before an old lady Subaru driver took her out.
Heat IS the enemy and using heavier springs that prevents slippage reduces heat so..............
My experience with Barnett clutches is that lever pull ends up being
pretty stiff compared to stock.
I remember guys would try to "out smart" the Japanese and "build UP" their inline fours. They all installed Barnett clutches ... you could barely pull in the lever on some of these bikes ... and after being "tuned" by all the Rob Muzzy Wanna be's, most ended up slower that stock ... but very very loud!
Same deal in the two stroke dirt bike world. The Japanese spent years to make clutch pull light .. and a barnett set up
just ruined that! Funny stuff.
Stay with stock springs. You are not racing.
yep, ive toasted a clutch, tho not in a DR :) cooked the beejesus out of my little WR200 making tracks on virgin mountainside.. very cooked oil, took a couple of changes to get it cleaned out proper, went with EBC dirt series as a replacment...
Bumping this long old post.
Have a DR with 3k miles on it. Great machine.
However this weekend while riding at Carnegie SRVA here in California I discovered you cannot slip the clutch like I was taught to ride a dirt bike.
Full disclaimer, I am pretty much a new dirt rider but did do 8 days in El Salvador on 250 4 strokes. We were taught to speed control with the clutch in tight stuff etc, so that is what I was doing with my DR.
Riding single track and some steeps hills etc. Then the bike just wouldn't go forwards any more, and bam, no clutch.
So question, do you have to ride this bike with the clutch fully engaged like pretty much all the time? You can't ride slipping the clutch like a dirt bike?
I mean fine, I will replace the clutch and move on, was just a bitch of a day getting the bike out and home, and yeah it was my ride to get there fro SF ha ha.
I did pretty much the same this weekend. Lots of loose uphill with some ruts that required you to gingerly work your way through. I didn't want the bike to die while doing the uphill sections, and thus likely feathered the clutch too much.