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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by MCmad, Jul 14, 2008.
Nice trail in the bottom picture. Mountain bike trail or walking path?
Well, the Big is never going to be turbine smooth but the two things I've found that will calm the vibrations as much as possible are:
Balancer chain tension set correctly
New Cush drive cushions in the rear hub.
Great photo, thanks
my cush drive is shot . i wonder if dr650 blocks will fit , since in usa u can get anything for dr650
Check on the parts numbers.
The 1990 DR650 uses the same hub. Part No. 64651-44B01. Available in the States.
sweet , now i need spokes , and rear shock lol
Aftermarket for the rear shock as the standard part is rubbish.
Spokes are available from Stefan Hessler (http://dr-big-shop.de/DR_BIG.html) both standard and stainless.
I ve seen that, big $
Walking path. However in the middle of the week around noon at 35°C you can bet that I was all alone out there...
Hi, been a while since i was on here and have just added a DR800 sr42 to my garage. wanted one for a long time but never had the chance to get one until yesterday. Anyway,the bike is great but not perfect and the first job i need to tackle is the stripped sump plug thread, the bolt just turns.. the PO said he had to use ptfe tape to seal it but it's still leaking. I suppose the best thing to do is get a helicoil thread repair set, drill and tap the hole and replace the bolt? Does anyone here know what size the bolt is? I don't want to take out the bolt until I'm doing the repair.. It's a 17mm head but what size repair kit do I need?
I love pouching walking paths . Preferably on my ultra stealth beta350rr. Ha .
I'm pretty certain the drain plug is a 12 mm plug but I'm NOT certain about the thread size, sorry. None of the parts sites I tried listed the size and thread pitch.
Thanks Ladder106, i read somewhere it might be m14x1.25.. Think i'm just going to have to take it out and measure it..
Seems to be difficult information to get hold of..
Took the BIG out for my first spin yesterday, even got it muddy. What a great bike, it's going to be a keeper alongside my FJ1200.
Hiya Mor and Welcome. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful. Let us know what you find. There is also a UK site that might be helpful:
If you have an older FJ (great bike) you'll know that these older guys have some areas that require looking into. In the DR they are generally the carbs (with 4 O-rings that usually go bad) the balancer chain (that requires regular adjustment) and fuel lines (the standard part uses 2 different ID sized due to differences between the fuel pump and the carbs so the standard part is good to use). Search back threads on this site for further information.
yep , thanks , thats the one . i was hoping for it to be the same as the modern but they changed most thinks in 1996 , so 96 to current the bike is the same , but yeah the cush drive fits from a 1990 to 1994 or so , i appreciate the part number look up .
You were right Ladder, it's M12 thread. I re-tapped it to M13 and put in a new sump plug, no more leak.
Thanks for the heads up on the fuel lines, I need to change them. They're all perished.
Looking forward to going through this bike and sorting out all the little issues, same as I did with the FJ!
Re: fuel lining. There’s an alternative routing for left/right tank(s), when you can skip the odd t-line. In general, you use left tank as general tank and right tank for reserve. Can’t find the link now but some of the old timers (in a good way, that is) here may have it?
Right, Ive done that with mine. The left and right tanks are independent and controlled with the original fuel valve. The old "on" position for the left tank and the "res" position for the right tank. "Off" is still OFF.
I run one tank for about 220 km (using trip meter) and then switch. This leaves just a bit left in the first tank to be used as an emergency reserve. The bike doesn't feel out of balance with one tank low and the other full.
The tanks interconnect with the same quick connect part as original. I've re-routed this to happen at the rear of the tanks up under the seat. Also, the original Suzuki quick-connect can still be sourced by looking up Suzuki Marine parts on the web.
Hello fellow DR BIG owners.
First time posting but I have a problem with my doctor...
After dropping the bike on its side it simply will not start, I have emptied the carbs, took out the spark plugs and while I did I change them to DPR8EA-9 instead of the DPR9EA-9. The bike is getting fuel and air and from what I could tell there was a spark. The starter engine runs and the decomp is activated some Times but not all (with this I mean that the enginge pulls back the lever, I always start the bike with The decomp lever pulled in.)
The bike has been extremely easy to start when the battery has been charged, I have used a booster pack and jumpleads to a car battery but this time it simply will not start.
At this time I think it might be the ignition that is causing the problem because I checked the start Button and kill switch and they are both good.
Anyone have any ideas what might be the cause?
DR750 or 800? SR 41 or 42?
Onto which side did it fall. Was it a zero speed fall-over in the garage or "at-speed" fall with a 100 meter slide down the road?
What if anything was damaged in the fall?
For now, start simple and have a look at the wiring going into the bottom of the ignition switch. The solder connections there are easily broken.