Drug home a "race" car.

Discussion in 'Shiny Things' started by c1skout, Dec 23, 2018.

  1. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

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    My nephews have started to autocross. Not real big into it, just having some fun. I wanted to join in, so had been watching C-list looking for race cars that fit into my budget. I'm partial to Ford products so mostly I was looking at Focuses (Focii?), 94-98 Mustangs, and Capri's. Always liked Capri's.
    Years ago I had a 72 Capri with the 2600 and a 4 speed. I ran it for a bit, but mostly kept munching and replacing transmissions. Eventually junked it.
    Next up was a 91 non-turbo car, 1.6 Mazda, auto trans. I swapped in a 5-spd and commuted with it for almost 100,000 miles. Nice, nimble, light, easily maintained, 2300lbs and 100hp.

    One evening a 91 Capri showed up on a nearby C-list. 160,000 miles, been sitting, runs but has a bad miss. $250 obo. I made an appointment to go look at it. 3 of us met after work, hooked the tow dolly onto my Nephew's truck and headed south to check it out in the dark. When we got there the seller put a battery in and started it up. It seemed to hit on only 2 cylinders, but didn't make any strange noises, showed oil pressure, and there wasn't any blue smoke cloud. I offered $200, he accepted, and we loaded it up. It has a hard-top, so I figured there's no way I can go wrong for the price.
    1210182107a.jpg

    We made it home without issue. Next day I ordered an 80amp Maxi-fuse for it, to replace the jumper wire that was being used. Got the fuse installed and drove it down to my barn. Next order of business was to check compression. Showed 145-155 on all 4 holes, so I metered the plug wires and didn't see any problem there. Pulled the distributer cap and checked those contacts, again all looked fine. The plugs looked like the car had been running really rich before, so I pulled the air filter. It was so plugged up I'm surprised it ran at all! I didn't have a replacement filter, so I knocked the filter media out for testing and cleaned the inside of the airbox. I screwed 4 new plugs in and fired it up. Still only hitting on 2-3 holes! Decide to pull the pump out of the tank. Easy job on these, lift the rear seat and there's an access hole to the tank. Here's the top of the pump with the panel lifted.
    1544792827871.jpg

    Something was storing nut shells here. I got that mess cleaned up and the pump pulled. One look down into the tank confirmed my fears. Nasty rust and gelled fuel. I tried to siphon the old gas, but my siphon kept clogging! Here's what I got out in a clean bucket.
    1544792827127.jpg

    I decided to pull the tank. Jacked up the rear and started spraying everything with PB. Tank came out without any bolts or brackets breaking.
    DSCN1818.JPG
    #1
  2. Nico

    Nico Save the @Pork Butt

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    Ecoboost swap. :deal








    Someone had to say it. :D
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  3. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

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    The brake lines to the rear originally ran over the tank, someone replaced them and rerouted around-under the tank. I'll be replacing with new lines in the original location while I'm in there. With the tank out I sloshed the remaining fuel around to carry as much of the gunk out of the tank as possible. When sloshing I noticed a wet spot appearing on the top of the tank.......and around the upper vent hose. Shucks!

    DSCN1808.JPG

    Drained out the gas that remained and took some pics of the inside.
    DSCN1805.JPG

    Realized I need to replace or line this tank. Checked out my options and found a new tank for $140 shipped. Lining will cost better than $60 for supplies, plus time, and building some kind of rotisserie for rotating the tank. I took the lazy route here and ordered the new tank. If I would have lined it, then had trouble again a few years down the road, a new one may not then be available.
    #3
  4. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

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    That'd be fun! But, to run in the "stock" classes in autocross the car has to remain stock. I even have to keep 5.5" wide wheels, but I can go to either 13 or 15" diameter! I'll be outclassed enough already, without venturing into the "prepared" classes. Bad enough to start racing when I'm pushing 50.

    Oh yeah, I'm open to (helpful or humorous) advise from any autocrossers out there.
    #4
  5. Nico

    Nico Save the @Pork Butt

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    "Stock" mostly means "stock-looking". Big bore kit, fat injectors, proper cams and head work. Might as well go all out. :deal
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  6. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

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    I could put a 1.8 from an Escort GT in it, pretty much plug n play.
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  7. waybill

    waybill wayward

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    Get as much weight out as possible then put money into suspension and sticky tires, those'll help the most. Autocross is about transitioning from one direction to another as quickly as possible and most of it's 2nd and 3rd gear. Stiffer, lower springs and good shocks. Low end torque over high end hp, need to steer with the rear sometimes. Don't know if you can change gearing but lower and closer spaced is better.

    Oh, your competitors are bending the rules (cheating) so don't let that be a hurdle, you'll learn what you can get away with : )
    #7
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  8. Crocker

    Crocker Just passing through Supporter

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    Subscribed.

    I'm looking for a car over the winter to use for autocross that could eventually be built to a time trials car if I decide to go that route.

    Good luck with the build out.
    #8
  9. Stretch67

    Stretch67 Mad Scientist Supporter

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    LS swap!
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  10. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

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    Thanks guys, keep the ideas coming. Long winter ahead yet. I don't think I'll be doing any swaps, least not till I get some experience. I'll have plenty to do just going over the car and repairing the brakes, suspension, fuel system......and whatever else I haven't noticed yet. One step at a time.

    Imagining an LS hooked up to an Eldorado transaxle and wedged in here makes me smile.
    #10
  11. GPD323

    GPD323 Adventurer

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    If its the B6T 1.6 turbo engine then the crank nose is one of the issues. Pull off the drive pulley and check the woodruf key for wear on the nose of the crankshaft. the early 1.6 engines had a loose crank bolt that wore the slot in the crank and allowed the timing to change resulting in poor engine performance. Additionally, they were susceptible to bad spark plug wires and water in the spark plug wells.

    However, the 91 may have the large nose crank so this may not be an issue.
    #11
  12. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

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    No turbo, I haven't looked yet, but should have the big nose crank in this one.
    #12
  13. ddavidv

    ddavidv Dark web dangerous

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    I used to dabble in stock and SP class. After I drove a couple Prepared class cars I realized how much fun I was missing. I'd gut that car, take weight out everywhere the rules allow and put on the stickiest, widest tires allowed and have a blast.
    #13
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  14. High Hope

    High Hope World's Best Dog Supporter

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    What WayBill advised. I ran stock in the PCA driving 3.2 liter 911s. My first year was completely stock, including crappy tires, US ride height, Boge shocks. Later I switched to a lighter car, lowered to Euro height and then some, Bilstein sport shocks, and at the time the hot setup was Yokohama AO7s (IIRC) mounted on wider F&R wheels. We would take everything out of the car at scrutineering, incl spare, jack, tools, floor mats. The difference was amazing. I miss those days. Have fun!
    #14
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  15. tominboise

    tominboise Long timer

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    The SCCA has very clear rules about what can be done/not done for the various classes. I run in a street prepared class and no one really checks anything until you get to a national event. I follow the rule book because it's the right thing to do.

    Single best thing you can do to be competitive is to get 200 treadwear tires as wide as your class will allow, and drive as many events as you can.
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  16. KeithinSC

    KeithinSC Long timer

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    Make it reliable. Then tires. Then practice practice practice. Then worry about weight, faster, better handling.
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  17. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

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    When the boys started racing I downloaded the scca rules. Holy s*~#t are they picky! Going strictly by the book an aftermarket stereo would get you bumped from stock class. So would a Moog ball joint, unless the OEM part was unavailable.

    I won't be going to any national events, and the local bunch seems pretty relaxed about what people are running. But I'll still follow the rules as much as reasonable for me. I'm not going to worry about the Sony head unit though.

    200 treadwear tires are on the list, but not a priority for me yet. There aren't a lot of choices in my 185-60-14 factory size. I'm sure I'll start out with 400 tires. I want to go with 15" wheels for sticky tires, then 195-50-15 tires give me more options.
    #17
  18. tominboise

    tominboise Long timer

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    There is a facebook group on autocross where people post lots of goodies for sale, including wheels and tires. Might be worth joining.

    https://www.facebook.com/groups/522592824569057/

    Since I can run DOT slicks in my class, I buy used race tires from the internet. Saves at least 50-75%.
    #18
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  19. lowriderglen

    lowriderglen Adventurer

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    I have one of those Capri's in my basement w/turbo. I may swap the driveline into a Festiva that I have. There is a guy that goes by the name Rocketman that will burn a hipo chip for that car....Also thought about running the Capri in a Lemons race.
    #19
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  20. SRG

    SRG Long timer

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    Tires are the best bang for the buck time wise. Good AX are 2sec or so faster than good street tire on a 1 minute course.

    Search out other AX's around besides SCCA. Porsche club, BMW club (most don't care a bit what make of car you bring) etc. More runs, less rules, more fun, less picky technical BS.
    #20
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