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Discussion in 'Shiny Things' started by c1skout, Dec 23, 2018.
I agree. Over time I moved up to the SP class and regretted it.
SP means lots of mods, doesn't it? Street Prepared?
yes, I wasn't as serious about things as the other guys in that class.
I hear ya, change 1 thing and open up the rabbit hole!
I'll echo what's been said already- once it's running and reliable, tires are #1.
Current favorite at the autox parking lot is the Bridgestone RE71R
Of course, running street tires for an event first will give you an appreciation for just how much difference proper rubber makes!
If 13" wheels are an option getcha some bassett wheels with slicks!
#2 is suspension bushings, especially on an old car like yours.
Replace all of the cheap and easy ones at least for a start.
I had to look up Bassett wheels. Cool stuff! Thanks for the link. Nice Festiva you've got there.
Thanks, it's got a Protege BP in it
That white Merkur XR4Ti is now gone. Looks like I dodged that bullet.
Ha Ha, it might have moved closer to you! Keep your eyes open.
My new tank came today!
Naturally it came with a pump gasket and screws so I have a spare now. Had a couple small differences, but nothing that should matter for install. One item it didn't have is the safety flapper-valve thingy.
I used a screwdriver to carefully pry the old one out of the bad tank, then cleaned it up for install.
The new tank was missing a locating slot for the tab on the flapper valve, so I grabbed a couple files and made one, after marking for position.
With my new notch made it just took a couple easy swats with a rubber mallet to seat in place.
I stripped the pump apart and scraped, brushed, and wiped all the corrosion and petrified fuel off. I don't know if it would have been easier when I first removed it and everything was still slimy. I just didn't want to play with the smelly goop any more than I had to. A small scraper and a stiff brush handled most of it, so it wasn't a big deal anyways. I put my new strainer sock on, then decided to check the fuel gauge just to be sure it showed signs of life. No idea what kind of readings I should have gotten, but the ohms meter changed when I moved the float up and down. I'm calling it good.
Some of the tanks paint had rubbed off from storage or shipping in the cardboard box. I decided to give it a coat of machinery grey paint too. Got the top painted, and the pump installed. I'll paint the bottom after this side dries. I stuck the foam isolator strips from the old tank on the sticky paint, that should hold them till it gets installed.
That's it for now.
Early 1980's I had a Datsun 200SX with the "L-20B" engine. SCCA slaloms at San Diego Stadium were a hoot.
I had to google that one. I remember those first gen. 200SX cars, pretty funky looking. Did you have one of those?
I got the bottom half of my new tank painted today
and yanked the old brake lines from the rear junction block to the joint at the rubber hoses. It looks like somebody used those 2 compression fittings to repair line leaks, the whole line seems the same age.
I don't remember the last time I used my double flare tool! It was actually hidden in my tool box and it took me some searching to find. I didn't remember what the box looked like.
2 new lines ready for install. This fancy new line sure bends nicely. I used the bender to make the 180's on the lines, but made the rest of the bends with my thumbs.
I've always had a special ability to take a tubing bender and make a mirror image of the part I'm trying to duplicate, so I used to just bend it all by hand. I don't think that my fingers could take that kind of stress anymore though, so this ni-cp line is a godsend!
I got some goodies from Rock Auto. Mostly just brake hoses but there were some other parts too.
I also found a guy parting out a Capri, and went and got a truckload of parts.
I got my new lines bent up, at least far enough forward to get out from above the tank. I left them run "wild" for now, I'll continue them later.
I put the new tank up in place. Took a bit of fiddlin' trying to figure out which way to orient the filler hose, other than that no trouble.
The new tank had a couple small differences from the factory tank, one is it didn't have a tab for the rollover-safety-valve thingy. I grabbed some scrap off the floor by my vice and built this bracket.
The new bracket bolts up with one of the tank mount bolts, and secures the safety valve.
I had to modify the exhaust shield also, but didn't get any good pics of that. It just took a couple bends and a snip on the original mount to clear the new tank, so nothing exciting anyways.
Sorry for the funny pics, I forgot my camera so just took these with the cellafone.
That's all for now.
I'm stuck home today, on call for snow plowing. Went down to the barn and got some stuff done on the racecar. New rear rubber brake hoses, Dorman brand sourced from Rock Auto.
They unfortunately didn't come with new sealing washers for the banjo bolts, so I annealed the old copper ones.
The left side banjo bolt felt a bit "wonky" threading into the caliper, like somebody started to cross it at one time. I greased up a thread chaser and wound it into the fitting hole.
Next I cleaned up the hole with brakecleen, then built a rig to flush out the caliper with new Dot 3 fluid.
The banjo bolt tightened up, but I'm still gonna keep a good eye on it when bleeding time comes.
I needed to finish running the new brake lines forward into the engine bay. I put a tire on the right rear, set that corner back on the ground, and jacked up the left front so I have room to work under that side of the car. I shook the left front wheel to check for tie rod and ball joint play before breaking it loose. Ball joint is tight, but found a lot of play in the outer tie rod.
The brake and fuel lines run together in nice isolation clips, along the length of the left frame rail. The old lines had 4 compression fitting "repairs" between the front of the fuel tank and the engine support member! Here's the forward-most line clip, bolted between the steering rack and firewall, below the master cylinder.
I got the clip bolt loosened with a 1/4" ratchet, but it was tight to the rack bellows just to break it loose. A ratchet wrench is too fat to fit around the bolt, so I worked through the tie-rod hole with a long open-end to get that bolt. I pulled the outer tie rod off the knuckle to get a bit more room for my hands, and got a surprise there.
The cotter pin was missing, and the castle nut was only finger tight. Don't know how long somebody drove it around like this.....hopefully the taper in my knuckle isn't wallowed out from the tie rod slopping around in it!
I got the old lines out, and one new line pulled up to the master cylinder area, but had to stop there for now. The master ends of the brake lines use bubble flares, and I don't have a bubble flare tool, at least not yet!
They sell a bubble to inverted flare adapter fitting if ya don’t wanna buy a new tool.