Drug home a "race" car.

Discussion in 'Shiny Things' started by c1skout, Dec 23, 2018.

  1. nk14zp

    nk14zp Long timer

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    When the car corners and you don't have to slow down and it feels like you are on a grocery run during a race then it is time for more power.
    #61
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  2. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

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    Thanks Villageidiot, I've seen those, but 30-40 bucks for a tool would save me from looking at those adapters every time I open the hood :D. Plus, who doesn't like more tools?
    #62
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  3. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

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    Yeah, I'm sure I'll be the limiting factor for quite a while......possibly always! I've been advised to not make any mods until the driver can make all his runs within a couple of tenths, sounds like a good metric to me.
    #63
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  4. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

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    Got a bit more brake line ran. I mentioned getting a bubble flare tool and a fellow who I work with offered to loan me one. I made a practice flare on a length of cut-off line, seemed a simple enough process, so I went ahead and cut then flared the first one for the rear brakes.
    DSCN1869.JPG

    I had to pick up another coil of line to finish the runs to the rear, should have enough now to run fresh to both fronts and still have some leftover for on stock.
    DSCN1870.JPG

    Here's where the rear lines run under the booster, between the rack and firewall, before threading through a channel between the engine support and frame. This run would have been impossible with the mild steel brake line I grew up using!
    DSCN1876.JPG
    This is how I had to start the line clamp fastening bolt back into the firewall. 1 prybar to hold the clamp up, plus 1 to push in toward the firewall while I started the bolt with a wrench. I swear I struggled with this clamp for the better part of an hour. Needed 3 hands in a spot where I could only fit my fingertips in to the bolt.
    DSCN1878.JPG

    I did get the second rear line flared and into the master, that's where I quit for the day. Just need to make one more junction under the car and replace all the line clamps to have the rear half of the brake lines finished. I'm getting there.......slowly.
    #64
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  5. WVhillbilly

    WVhillbilly Long timer

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    You can get a lot of those lines pre bent and ready to install, from the dealer, for a LOT less than you would think.

    My son bought a few for his Jeep and they were literally just a few bucks more than a straight stick of tubing would have been in that length.
    #65
  6. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

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    Thanks, I've bought factory lines for projects in the past. Brake, fuel, and transmission. Never even considered it here. These cars were "obsoleted" quite a while before Mercury was disbanded by Ford, so NOS dealer stuff would be the only way there'd be any.

    Good reminder nonetheless! I often price-shop the local dealers for whatever parts I'm needing. More often than some people would believe factory parts are cheaper than aftermarket.
    #66
  7. WVhillbilly

    WVhillbilly Long timer

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    I used to be able to buy factory replacement brake lines for my Samurai.
    Back when Suzuki auto was still in the US :(
    #67
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  8. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

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    I tried to get some more done on the car today, but things didn't quite go as planned. I needed to make a junction under the car, where I was putting two line ends together. I started to make a double flare on one end of line, got the first half of the flare made and realized I hadn't put a flarenut on!! Cut the flare back off, slide a flarenut on, make a new flare and one side is done. I had a swallow of coffee and thought to myself "haven't done something like that in a while". I slid back under the car to figure where I want to cut the other end of line off. I didn't want it to end up long, I wanted it to be a snug fit, so the line could hang neatly in the factory line clips. I decided where to make the cut, cut the line off and started making my next flare.......then realized I'd done it again. No flarenut. :baldy I calmed myself down, cut the second flare off, and put the flarenut on BEFORE flaring the line this time.
    DSCN1880.JPG

    It worked out ok. I was able to tighten the fittings and snap the lines up into their clips nice and neat. I've done enough over the years to know when it's time to step away. Sometimes things just go wrong, and on those days the more I try to do the more things go wrong. I'm farther ahead just to stop and come back another time. This was one of those days.

    But hey, It's Groundhog Day! I've got some family coming over to watch the classic Bill Murray movie, and somebody needs to make apple crisp!
    DSCN1881.JPG

    I processed 16 apples, a mixture of Gala and Granny Smith. Add a bunch of sugars, flour, cinnamon, butter and oats. 40 minutes at 350 and.......
    DSCN1884.JPG

    I like mine with chocolate ice cream!
    DSCN1885.JPG

    That's it for today. I had no trouble making, or eating the apple crisp :clap. Groundhog Day, the movie, was the same as last year. And the year before that.
    #68
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  9. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

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    50-some degrees when I came home from work today. Wasn't even raining! I had a bowl of venison chili and headed down to the barn. I bolted the line clips back up to the frame. I think I'll revisit that coupler with a P-clamp since it ended up between the 2 other clamps. Not crazy about the extra weight hanging loose.
    DSCN1888.JPG

    Left front was next on the agenda. I unfastened the 2 ends and was able to jiggle and finesse the line out in one piece. Here's the old one along with the replacement.
    DSCN1890.JPG

    I got the new line in place and hooked up both ends. 3 new lines from the master cylinder now. Woo-Hoo!
    DSCN1892.JPG
    This short run of line only had 1 factory clip, paired up with the clutch line. Naturally the tab snapped off when I put the new line in. I didn't want to leave it unsupported, so I grabbed some sliced vacuum hose and a zip-tie.
    DSCN1894.JPG

    Years ago a read a story about a Baja race where the leader ended up losing his lead when a brake line burst. It had been rubbed through by a zip-tie. I'm not planning on any desert races, but I still don't want a burst line.
    #69
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  10. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

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    New rubber hose
    DSCN1891.JPG

    The brake pad pins and caliper slides were stuck in position. I pulled the caliper so I could work on it standing up. The clip to hold the pad pins had to be destroyed, but then I was able to knock the pins out with a punch.
    DSCN1896.JPG

    I separated the 2 halves of the caliper and pressed the slide pins back and forth. 1 actually came out pretty quickly with some liquid wrench. The second one took a good bit of futzing around.
    DSCN1897.JPG

    I finally got the slide pin out and only destroyed the one rubber bushing-bellows thing. I used a scraper to clear the hole of rust scale, then shined it up with a plumber's wire brush.
    DSCN1899.JPG

    I picked up some new slide pin seal things at the auto parts today. I'll get it all greased up and reinstalled next chance I have.
    #70
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  11. RedRocket

    RedRocket Yeah! I want Cheesy Poofs

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    Plug away.

    Stopping is important.
    #71
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  12. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

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    I had to work part of the day on Saturday, but the weather was decent when I got home, so I put some more time into my brakes. Right front brake line was the last one to replace. It ran from the master, along the firewall, then dropped down around the lower end of the strut tower to pass under the frame horn. I got both ends loose, pulled some hoses and stuff out of the way, and tried to wriggle the whole line out in one piece. I wasted more time than I should have before giving up and cutting it in half for removal. With the old line out I slid the bubble flare fitting on the end of the new line and made a flare. Then I made the first tight 90 by the fitting, and started fishing that end of the line into position from the right front wheelwell. With the end up near the master cylinder I began making the rest of the bends to get it installed back into the original position. Here's all 4 new lines at the master cylinder. It isn't perfect, but nothing is rubbing anywhere, and they all run in the factory positions. I'm happy with it!

    DSCN1903.JPG

    The other end, and another new hose. That finishes the running of the brake lines. All new everywhere!
    DSCN1904.JPG

    I removed this....... speaker?
    Alarm system?
    Flux Capacitor?

    DSCN1902.JPG

    It was fastened to the firewall with 2 small screws with nuts. Easy enough install, but I wish that whoever put them in would have put those tiny screwheads out in the engine bay. I had to jam my hand and a right-angle screwdriver into the cowl to hold the screws. It's in the garbage now, so no biggie. I think it may have been an alarm, but I don't understand the wiring. There were a red, black, and yellow wires. The red and black had 1/4" flat plugs that plugged onto wires coming from the battery terminal bolts. I understand this, constant power from the battery. There's an inline fuse holder wrapped up in that bundle near the speaker.
    The yellow wire runs down to a scotch-lock connector that is tied into the power wires for the COOLING FAN! :hmmmmm Got me on that one!
    #72
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  13. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

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    The right front caliper slide pin was stuck too. Worse than the left side was! I fought with it for a bit at the workbench, then ended up using my "big" vice to press it out. The big vice is down for repairs though, so I had to c-clamp it onto a stool to use for this project! I need to get this old beast fixed and back in service.......some things a 4" vice just can't do!
    DSCN1916.JPG

    New slide bushing-bellows thingies.
    DSCN1905.JPG

    I removed the rear caliper fixing bolts, pulled the calipers and verified that they moved properly on their slides. All was good there, so I moved on to bleeding the brakes! It took a while to get fluid flowing everywhere, and I used up a good bit until all the old nasty stuff was out of the rear calipers.
    DSCN1918.JPG

    It has pedal now. I'll have to go over it all again once running to be sure there's no leaks with the vacuum booster in play. For now it's good.
    #73
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  14. WVhillbilly

    WVhillbilly Long timer

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    You'll never be able to take Marty back in time now
    #74
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  15. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

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    I got some mail over the weekend too. New rotors and wheel bearings for the front.
    DSCN1907.JPG

    For fun I bought a few "period" magazines with Capri road tests. They all say it's a sporty car.......not a sports car! Glad I knew that going in. It's cool to read all the old ads and such too. I'm getting old!
    DSCN1913.JPG

    Now that the brakes are wrapped up, here's a preview of where I'm going next.
    DSCN1901.JPG

    Gotta love rust repair!
    #75
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  16. tominboise

    tominboise Long timer

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    Appears that perhaps you bought a project car that you might race one day,....NTTIAWWT....The joy is often in the journey.....I have my "race car" up on stands in the garage getting ready for a clutch it doesn't really need.

    Great work - keep the pics coming.....
    #76
  17. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

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    thanks Tom!

    Definitely a project.
    #77
  18. villageidiot

    villageidiot Long timer Supporter

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    Something to think about when you do the wheel bearings on the car.....


    Some of that generation ford/Mazda/Kia the wheel bearing races are pressed into the knuckle, there’s a spacer between the bearings, don’t lose it and don’t mix it up if so. It’s a machined spacer for the thickness between bearings for THAT spindle. Fuckers.

    In the rear I think it’s all normal stuff, though the left rear castle nut could be reverse thread.

    It is on the festivas of that era.
    #78
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  19. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

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    Thanks for the reminder. I did wheel bearings on the last Capri I had, so I'm familiar with the unusual setup. I even have the factory tools here ( somewhere) for front bearing service. Right now I have a spare set of knuckles/rotors, and the new rotors that just came, so my plan is to build the new rotors up on the spare knuckles, then I can swap them out for the ones on the car when needed. I'm hoping that I don't need to keep more than 1 spare set up on hand!

    There is a "VR4 Galant big brake upgrade" that I debated switching to. If I went that route I would gain a rotor that I could switch out by simply removing the caliper. That would be a big plus, but it is a lot heavier, no bigger in diameter, spaces the wheel out farther, and you lose the hub-centric wheel mounting.

    I ran over 80,000 commuter miles on 1 new set of stock rotors on my last Capri, so I'm not afraid to try them for auto cross. If it doesn't work out I'll change it up later.
    #79
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  20. villageidiot

    villageidiot Long timer Supporter

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    Not sure if it works or not but I think an escort gt caliper is bolt on and gives a 4 piston non floating rotor.

    My festivas I ran ford aspire knuckles and escort gt calipers, got me to a 9” disc up front.

    Did the whole aspire beam swap in the rear, still drum, but 9” vs 7”

    The lines blur between all that generation of car for me
    #80