Here is a summary of my front fork/triple tree upgrade to my 05 DR650. Comments, and suggestions welcome. I've had a number of people ask me to write it up so here I go. All opinions are My Opinions. So, I've had my 05 DR for 1 year now. I loved the bike from the first ride, but I wanted more offroad capability than the stock suspension could give me. I ride the bike daily to work (my ride to work is 50% dirt 50% street). I seriously considered racetech cartridge emulators, and new fork springs. This would have cost ~$300 in parts and my labor. I still would have been left with small 43 mm tubes, and emulators for adjustments. Next I've read about and seen some RM250 (mid 90s) USD fork swaps to the DR. Sexy inverted forks, but the forks are designed for much lighter bikes. (lighter springs & smaller tubes) The swap is simple and I've heard of people buying complete mid 90s RM front ends with wheel cheap <$200 on fleabay. (lunatic speak up here) I read somewhere that the steering head bearings and lengths of the 01 through 05 (verify those years before buying) DRZ400 forks were the same as the DR650 triple tree. The DRZ400 uses Showa traditional design 49mm diameter tubes, 11.5" travel, full compression and rebound adjustment, and are designed for the heavier DRZ with respect to an RM. The disadvantage is that DRZ front ends are more expensive than the RM. They seem to be popular with the Super Motard people, so lots of wrecked DRZ owners looking for forks? I decided on the DRZ400S option. I pulled the trigger on a 2002 DRZ400 triple tree and forks from fleabay. I payed $180 for them. The upper tree turned out, was an aftermarket beefy billet aluminum job with multi-mounting points for the handlebar risers. My intention was to use the stock front wheel and order bearings and make wheel spacers.:huh So here we go. 1st I stripped the plastic from the stock front end. Here are a couple of pictures comparing the DRZ and stock DR triple trees. Notice the additional width, and beefier clamps of the DRZ, while the DRZ tree is lighter in weight. Yes, the bearings seemed to fit fine. On a side note, it still amazes me that I started spending money based on something I read in Joe rider's write up on a bulletin board without first getting absolute verification of the information. God Bless the WWW stuff. Next I tried fitting the new DRZ steering head the lower half fit great. I screwed the 1st upper nut on, and of course a little problem. It seems the 1st nut when appropriately tightened did not clear the shoulder (or taper) enough to allow the bottom of the upper tree to seat against the taper in the steering stem. The picture below (although blurry) shows my problem. The upper tree is designed to ride on the radius in the steering stem and the 1st nut is too thick or the DRZ steering stem is to short. I'm not sure if this problem is an artifact of the aftermarket upper tree, but that is what I suspect. Looking at the problem, I decided on a two pronged solution. I decided the 1st upper nut did not need to be that thick. most loading on the steering stem is upwards through the steering stem, and this nut is backed by the upper tree and a second nut. The clamped forks also distribute this loading. So, using a file, and (get this) belt sander clamped in my bench vise, I shaved the nut about 60 mils (1.5 mm) thinner. Watch out the nut gets warm on the belt sander. Here is a picture of the stock and shaved nuts (did I really just say that)??? As you may be able to see in the picture the steering stem shoulder is now clear of the nut. My next prong of this solution.... The upper tree clamp had the mating shoulder machined relatively deep such that it still did not make full contact with the stem radius before bottoming against the nut face. Fortunately the upper clamp had a raised shoulder where it sat down on the nut. So I again pulled out the file and belt sander and shaved the shoulder down about 40 mils (1 mm). Sorry for the bad pictures, I'm a cheap DR rider and can't afford a decent camera (you thought KLR riders were cheap). So, now the upper tree clamp fits correctly, life is good. As I previosly mentioned, I intended to use the original DR front wheel. Two problems; 1st the brake disk is not the same size so the caliper mount is in the wrong location. The DR uses a larger diameter full floating front disk. My solution... buy a DRZ brake disk from fleabay and mount it on the DR wheel. 2nd, the axle diameter for the DRZ is 20 mm while the DR uses a 17 mm axle. My simple solution was to but a DRZ brake disk and front axle ($20 + $10) and mount the disk on the DR wheel, and buy new wheel bearings. Of course this didn't work once I got the parts. The DRZ rigid disk will not bolt to the DR hub.:eek1 I went to the local bearing supplier and the bearing size to match the DR hub to the DRZ axle does not exist. I started drinking at this point, so I bit the bullet, pulled out my charge card, and bought a DRZ front wheel from fleabay for $220 (expensive, everyone wants two sets of wheels for their DRZ). At this point I now have a set of DRZ forks, and wheel mounted on my DR. Did I fail to mention I also had to order the DRZ speedo drive ($60) new, and while I was at it the DRZ left side wheel spacer, cheap for $6 and would have taken me 30 minutes to machine on a lathe I have access to. So I was getting hungry by this point so MRSinda505 brought me out a chef salad. My right index finger is getting bloody, so I'll finish this up tomorrow. I really did get this to work, 1.5 weeks before WFest07, and have been riding it since.......................................................... ........................................................ ......................................... ....................... more to come.