Drz400 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Britmick, May 4, 2007.

  1. ptgarcia

    ptgarcia Huh?

    Joined:
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    Correct. The non-MX FCR 39 is an older generation. It's distiguishing characteristic is it's slanted body. It's often referred to as the slant body FCR. Take a look at the picure below and you can see the obvious slant.

    [​IMG]


    The MX body is the typical vertical arangement.

    [​IMG]
  2. TheLastByte

    TheLastByte Adventurer

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    I heard that messing with the gearing too much on the DRZ can cause the chain slider to wear out prematurely and risk the chain wearing into the swingarm.

    I have an S I want to ride on singletrack. I was thinking of swapping in sprockets with the 400E's gear ratio (14/47). Am I good with that setup or should I be keeping the stock front/rear sprocket and only changing out the other to prevent damage.
  3. Marco Moto

    Marco Moto Voyager Supporter

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    ...do they both fit the DRZ?
  4. DR650SEDDY

    DR650SEDDY ride2discover Supporter

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    Don't use the 13T cs sprocket. No need. The 14/47 is more than enough to climb hills, single tracks etc... But if anything, go higher on the rear sprocket. 14/49 Is super to do extreme stuff but you'll compromise your freeway speed.
    AZ TOM and GREWUPIN_D11 like this.
  5. ptgarcia

    ptgarcia Huh?

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    Yes they do.
    Marco Moto likes this.
  6. SR56

    SR56 Long timer

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    TreasureState....I balance mine on the bike using the axle as the "stand" with the chain off, brakes not dragging, axle spacers not in place, etc. Good video...Thanks.

    All....this video is pretty good as far as rating tires with some good data at the very end showing a relative comparison...the Shinko 705 is rated the best 50/50 tire in deep sand but that doesn't mean it is "good" in deep sand :lol3:

    TreasureState likes this.
  7. SR56

    SR56 Long timer

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    ptgarcia...any advantage to the old style or the new style as far as you know?

    I am probably going to change carbs one day...just gathering data.

    Thanks
  8. ptgarcia

    ptgarcia Huh?

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    I really don't know the specific differences, and I only have first hand experience with the MX version, but I hear the MX is easier to tune and also has updated/upgraded accelerator pump (AP) linkage.
    dirtridr5115 likes this.
  9. TheLastByte

    TheLastByte Adventurer

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    [​IMG]

    Anyone running this style of bar riser on a S? Is there enough space to get these on or does the speedometer get in the way?
  10. rustycager

    rustycager Long timer

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    I have 3" risers on mine. In order to make it work I made a mount that moved my gauges forward over and up. It can easily easily be moved forward with spacers and longer screws.
    bracket.jpg 20170621_174059.jpg
  11. scharfg

    scharfg Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
    575
    Location:
    Prince George (icky) BC Canada
    Need help with my ODO and Trip meters.

    Bought a 2009 DRZS and when trying to figure out the fuel range and fuel mileage I found out the ODO is reading ~42% low and the two Trip meters are ~21% low.

    I thought it might be because I had a SM thingy in the speedo in the front tire, but my speedo is only reading 5% high.

    I played with the Trip meter adjustment option (0.7-1.3x) but it didn’t change anything.

    Ideas on how I can correct this?
  12. WindBlast

    WindBlast Jesus and Tequila

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    The speedo drive gearing at the front wheel drives the speedo and the odo and trip meters. It doesn’t make sense that they are off by varying amounts. You figured out that the trip meters can be adjusted +-30%. There is an optical reader board inside the dash. Maybe try replacing that?
  13. scharfg

    scharfg Been here awhile

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    Hi Windblast.

    Yes very strange, given the adjustment doesn’t make any difference....

    I’ll do some research on the optical dash reader suggestion.

    Thanks!
  14. dirtridr5115

    dirtridr5115 dirtridr5115

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    Weak spark/intermittent spark timing...

    What the heck is wrong here?? This doesn’t seem normal to me and I don’t know what to check next to remedy this... I just put on a brand new spark plug before getting this video. I replaced my stator last winter so I wouldn’t think that would be bad but I haven’t rechecked it recently



    12 second video of my spark plug because I can’t upload a video to my thread post
  15. Marco Moto

    Marco Moto Voyager Supporter

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    ...could be a cracked coil, intermittently shunting on the frame. Just throwing one out there for you to check, sometimes you can see the spark from the coil to the frame in the dark.
    dirtridr5115 likes this.
  16. steadfast

    steadfast Been here awhile Supporter

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    As the temperatures are starting to drop in VT, the gears on projects are starting to turn again. A buddy of mine gave me a 2005 drz400s project of his which needs bottom end bearings. My thought is, while I have the case apart why not put a stroker crank in there because it will most likely need a new crank anyway. To make this change effective, will I also have to put hot cams in it and put a big bore kit on the bike? I have not started to check things out with tolerances on the top end yet. I'm thinking of building the motor in steps as I also have to replace some other things on the bike.
  17. dirtridr5115

    dirtridr5115 dirtridr5115

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    thanks! Any feedback is helpful. At this point I’m fried trying to problem solve this
    Marco Moto likes this.
  18. Marco Moto

    Marco Moto Voyager Supporter

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    You can also check the coil by measuring the primary and secondary resistances, the values should be in the shop manual, my guess is that your secondary is low.
    dirtridr5115 likes this.
  19. Suzuki Phil

    Suzuki Phil Been here awhile

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    Sep 7, 2007
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    Tonight I noticed by rear subframe is not centered over the rear wheel. Using the rear wheel as a reference the rear fender is pushed to the right. I bought the bike with 400 miles on it and never laid it down hard. I've dropped it a couple of times in soft sand. The rear wheel is centered in the swing arm and the chain looks square to the motor. Has anyone encountered this issue before? I've had the rear sub frame off when I replaced the air box that had been modifried.

    Thx,

    SP
  20. Grinnin

    Grinnin Forever N00b Supporter

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    My experience with big tanks.

    I got the 4-gallon IMS last year. I liked the range. I think the tank looked good. The thing never fit right. When the puck pockets were solid against the pucks, the underseat tank bolt holes were still 15 to 17mm from the frame bolt holes. Then the low front bolt holes didn't line up with the radiator bolt holes. THEN the seat wouldn't go forward enough so the seat bolt holes didn't line up and those bolts also held the front of the top luggage rack. I think the whole thing was screwed because of mislocated puck pockets.

    I absolutely hated taking even the seat off, let alone the whole tank.

    Tunnel2.JPG

    I recently bought a 3.9-gallon Clarke. Everything lines up -- underseat bolts, radiator bolts, seat, seat bolts -- everything. I don't exactly look for excuses to take the tank off, but it's not a nightmare like it was.

    OtherLookout.JPG

    Which leaves me with a conundrum. I have this used tank. Some cosmetic scratching from the tank panniers. Good condition for what it is. Available free for anyone who wants it. One friend with a DRZ said it was hard to resist my sales pitch but resist he did.

    Any takers?
    JohnIrvine123 and rustycager like this.