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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Britmick, May 4, 2007.
Hell yeah! PM sent!
I have been running the IMS 4.0 for years now with no issues. Fit has been great even with radiator guards. IMS customer service has always been great for me as I also have an IMS tank on my 650R. Did you contact them and discuss the issue.
Hey guys-just picked up a 03 klx400 (rebaged drz400s) and could use some advice. It appears completely stock besides a gravity fed petcock and external fuel filter. It’s remarkable clean but is in desperate need of consumables and a tune up-I’ve got parts coming in and am going to replace tubes and tires, chain and sprockets (14/47 gearing), spark plug, air filter, brake fluid, coolant, check bearings, etc.
It is going to need some carb work though and I was hoping to get some opinions-it’s very cold blooded on initial start up for 5-10 min, the RPMs hang when chopping the throttle, and (when I took it on a short trail test ride) it was extremely prone to stalling at no throttle even with the clutch pulled in-I don’t have much four stroke thumper experience but did a similar ride on an older yz450 with no issues. I sprayed some wd40 around the intake boots to check for leaks and didn’t notice any change. I’m assuming this is just a combination of lean factory jetting and a plugged pilot jet-does that sound right? Is there anything special to look for in a CV compared to a pumper that I should be aware of? I’m planning a rebuild with a dynojet kit if it’s still running stock jets. Is there anything else I missed? I plan on using this as a SoCal ohv trail bike and just driving to the area, and it seems like it’ll be great once tires, gearing, and fueling is sorted.
I have similar problem with the IMS 4.0 (BTW it hold 4.5 when fully empty). I only experienced tough times aligning the lower bolts to the rad's holes. The seat fit good with no issue. I do worry every time i have to remove it for whatever reason, especially when u wanna do road side repairs when off-rd.
On the upside, it give me amazing range and provide convenient space where I can fit good size tank-bags.
I've read that some IMS tanks fit great and some don't. I took my chances and got one that didn't fit. I did not contact their customer service.
My stock radiators even with Unibiker guards have taken a beating. The replacement radiators were a worse fit with the IMS tank than the stock radiators. I was relieved to have an excuse to get a different brand tank.
The Clarke has better finish everywhere.
I ran a range test and the fill up was about 4.25 gallons. I only tilted the bike once for the secret reserve and that allowed 0.8 miles additional travel. IDK if additional tilts would get the same or less distance.
I have not run a range test with the Clarke tank.
Sounds like you are on the right track...one thing that might be a contributor is if the previous owner drilled the slide. You can open up the holes in the slide so the bike will theoretically have better throttle response...it is supposed to allow the slide to move quicker. Just something to consider if it still runs rough after cleaner and jetting the carb. Just FYI, I went with the Dynojet kit too and followed the Dynojet recomendations and my bike runs awesome.
Thanks-I don’t have any experience with CV carbs so any tips like this are greatly appreciated
If I were you, I'd start from ground zero (a valve adjust and fresh air filter) before messing with jetting.
Cant hurt. I’m leaning towards reusing current jetting if I find a problem with the carb setup (clogged jets, torn rubber, etc) just to set baseline. Is early valve movement common on these?
Nah, go through the carb and I'm sure you'll find some crap in there.
Acerbis 2 petcocks use every drop, no tipping bike over to get all the gas & perfect fit.
Don't you have to remove the radiator fan?
Might not be a problem on an E only on trails, but I want a fan for the (rare) traffic.
Never had a fan on my E & never a problem?
That E is WAY too clean. How do you do you keep it looking new?
I have an E and it only gets hot in slow single track - Remember there is no thermostat so it's 100% free flow.
Add changing the fork oil to your list. Since you'll already have the forks off, might as well go ahead and grease the steering head bearings also. Since the mfr's never seem to bother during assembly. Now that I think of it, they don't really grease any of the other bearings either. Better do the swing arm pivot and linkage also. Use BelRay water proof and slather it good. A few years from now, you'll be glad you did. Oh, and we need pics of the new bike.
Sold it about a year ago was GREAT bike. Spray the whole bike with Simple Green, almost full strength. Hose off with strong spray nozzle. After dry spray entire bike with Lemon Pledge. Tire black on tires & go get it dirty again. My moto it's not how you ride it's how you look when you ride!
oh it’s on there. I figure with 17 year old seals the suspension will need a full rebuild in the very near future-my priority for now is getting it running well and safely, hopefully in time to ride on Saturday. As for the swing arm pivot-last time I did one of those it took a weekend of pb blaster soaking and 3 hours with a mini sledgehammer. I’ll wait until I can get my hands on an air hammer for that one
Any chance the speedo is in Km/hr and the ODO is in miles...?
On the CV carb, the screws that hold the top on are JIS and not Phillips...there is just enough difference that a phillips screwdriver doesn't work well. I'd recomend either a JIS bit/screwdriver or once you get them out, change to allen head screws.
Check out this video on how a CV carb works...they are actually pretty simple:
No, but you said you had a 2003 and didn't specify how many miles were on it. Or you did and I didn't see it.