Drz400 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Britmick, May 4, 2007.

  1. PilotRPI

    PilotRPI Adventurer

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    Just thinking too about if they left 7 yo gas in there. Is the carb difficult to clean if needed? There is another nearby for less money with 4miles, bike protection installed, and jetting and 3x3 mod done. Maybe that is the better deal, starts out less and less needed to put in.
    NorskieRider likes this.
  2. offroadtoys

    offroadtoys Been here awhile Supporter

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    I certainly wouldn’t be afraid of 4K miles but a few hundred miles sounds intriguing. Carb cleaning is not difficult if you are slightly mechanically inclined. Take note that the “s” model got better suspension after 2001.
  3. mh7

    mh7 Adventurer

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    Aug 18, 2019
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    Just picked up a 2003 that ran but didn’t idle well. Rebuilt the carb with a moose racing kit and added a dynojet stage 1 kit-it wasn’t too bad. The clymer manual walks you through it with enough steps to break it down easily. Just put the cleaned parts from each step in labeled ziplock bags and it’s easy to reverse the process-about 4-5 hours over two afternoons and I was going slow. Started up and ran great after. I also put in an extended pilot adjustment screw, and will need another float bowl drain screw (old one was already seized and stripped).

    The only immediate thing (so far) I’d add to the above is that the chain was shot (o rings split and/or missing). I expect to service neck and suspension bearings over winter, and replace shock seals sometime in the next year. A decent bit of work just to get it up to my standards but not any worse than the 2005 sportster I had a few years ago, and it should be good to go for another 10 years after that
    Fixnfly likes this.
  4. ptgarcia

    ptgarcia Huh?

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    My recommendation with regards to cleaning carbs that sat full of fuel is don't bother trying to clean the jets, just replace them. Clean the carb body, blow out the passages, install new jets and needle (I recommend the JD Jetting jet kit) and be done with it. Most people that attempt to clean jets don't get them clean and end up having to pull the carb a second or even third time. While in the carb, replace the float valve plunger and seat. They harden and leak over time and lead to oil in the crankcase (see below).

    I think the only real concern I'd have buying a DRZ that sat for a long time is if it sat with fuel in the crankcase. If the vacuum fuel valve failed (pretty common issue) and fuel leaked passed the float valve (pretty common, also) you end up with fuel mixing with the oil in the crankcase. Not a disaster, but be prepared to change the oil, and if there is indeed a bunch of fuel in the oil change it again in short time.

    The rest is like any other neglected bike. Check the chain and sprockets, change fluids and lube cables and bearings and you should be set. The DRZ is a great bike. Good luck!
    TreasureState likes this.
  5. larolco

    larolco Adventurer

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    Are you mechanically inclined, or will you need to pay someone else to deal with revitalizing them? Therein lies your answer. Fueling system (tank, carb) will be likely problems. But, if you're planning on doing anything serious with it, you'll want to put an oversized aftermarket tank on it anyway. So, that leaves the carb. Maybe some fork seals from lack of use but they'll let you know quickly. Research resurrecting a long stored engine and be careful turning over the engine the first time (by hand, not starter). For the right price, you could have a great bike. The key is how was the bike stored. Look for an honest answer there and you know what kettle of fish you're buying.
    TreasureState likes this.
  6. Pavement Optional

    Pavement Optional Adventurer

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    Jun 18, 2019
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    CurveAlice, Oregon
    Just froze my ass off riding 60 miles in 45 degrees to take my new-to-me DRZ home! It's an S, currently has 17s on it, but have the original wheels too. This should be fun....
  7. SR56

    SR56 Long timer

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    IMO...hardest thing about cleaning the carb is getting the carb on and off the bike.

    It was easier for me after titling the subframe down...only a few bolts but it gives you enough room to get the carb on/off without fighting with it too much.
    dirtridr5115 and MotoChris521 like this.
  8. Grinnin

    Grinnin Forever N00b Supporter

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    I take the carb out and put it back without moving the subframe or much else beyond the seat and tank. Now I'd have to remove my SH775 but the stock R/R was never in the way.

    Probably depends on the style of carb. Mine is bog standard S model BSR36.

    RedBlueberries.JPG
  9. Marco Moto

    Marco Moto Voyager Supporter

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    Same here, I tuck the airbox boot behind the frame and remove the carb without much fuss.

    Question: I installed the SH775 just like you, in the same spot, and the main thing I don't like is that now I can't get to the idle screw as easily, and use the flathead screwdriver on the multitool that I keep in my pocket. Does anyone know of an extended, remote Idle adjustment screw? I can't seem to find anything online.

    IMG_20200403_181801.jpg
  10. Grinnin

    Grinnin Forever N00b Supporter

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    Hope someone else can help. I haven't touched the idle adjustment screw in a few years. I CAN get to it, but you're right that it's not easy with my choice of R/R location.
  11. dirtridr5115

    dirtridr5115 dirtridr5115

    Joined:
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    Sorry it’s been a bit since I’ve had time to look at my bike... I just checked the primary (terminal-ground) and the secondary (terminal-spark cap) and here’s what I got...
    Primary = 2.8 ohms
    Secondary = 16.9 kohms

    Does that make sense that the primary is high? To me it means that it’s being grounded in other places which makes sense if the spark is erratic... I think this makes sense at least...

    So where is the best place to buy a coil? Amazon?
  12. WindBlast

    WindBlast Jesus and Tequila

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    New Sweden
    Selling a set of stock S wheels off my 2010 DRz complete with OEM disks and sprockets if anyone is interested. 9k miles. Ad is in Parts thread. I went SM last summer,
  13. DR650SEDDY

    DR650SEDDY ride2discover Supporter

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    dirtridr5115 likes this.
  14. Fixnfly

    Fixnfly Not found on the book of faces

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    I just checked Rocky Mountain for a OEM coil,
    $75 without the plug cap.
    Big difference.
  15. DR650SEDDY

    DR650SEDDY ride2discover Supporter

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    OEM always more $$. Is it the best? Yes on some parts. I tried after market stuff there's mostly good as long they're made here not in China.
    dirtridr5115 likes this.
  16. 62hsr

    62hsr Been here awhile

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    Jun 8, 2009
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    Marietta GA
    When taking apart a carb I’ll use disposable muffin tins to hold all the small parts as they come off. Starting at top left and going across and down. I make small notes on the tin with sharpie when needed. Take plenty of closeup pics of carb with phone during process to reference during reassembly. This process helps a lot when project stalls and restarts three weeks later. It seems my memory is shit these days and I need all the tricks I can find!
    RebelYell, TreasureState and JohnE65c like this.
  17. SR56

    SR56 Long timer

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    62hsr...excellent suggestions :-). I have the wife on stadby with her smartphone to photo everything BEFORE I take it apart. It has saved me many times when I can't remember where/how something is supposed to fit on all sorts of mechanical devices :lol3.
    62hsr and TreasureState like this.
  18. Fixnfly

    Fixnfly Not found on the book of faces

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    I don't think I would trust a $20 coil.
  19. dirtridr5115

    dirtridr5115 dirtridr5115

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    West Ohio
  20. dirtridr5115

    dirtridr5115 dirtridr5115

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