DRZ400 Who's got one? Let's see it.

Discussion in 'Australia' started by johmarq, Oct 19, 2011.

  1. Hoots

    Hoots Long timer

    Joined:
    May 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    4,233
    I found the same thing with the 690 - 6-speed gearbox the same width (exactly) as the 5-speed in the WR450F - and not all that much wider than the DRZ for that matter - the 690 came alive with taller SM gearing - could really feel / use the big motor - but then too tall for offroad

    Be interesting to ride the new smooth 701 motor, as that might really help - you could certainly wind the 690 up but it was like sitting on an enormous brushcutter - that and the rooted suspension, poor mapping, airbox, engine issues, etc gave me the shits in the end and I sold it

    But it looked good, and was fun on an open fire trail ...
  2. Blossem12

    Blossem12 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2015
    Oddometer:
    63
    Location:
    South Pacific Crimes Gold Coast
    What your Drz RPMs at 100ks XRman as i have just purchased the ACT gears
    Do you run the 14/47 and did you try the 15/44 with the WR box
    Cheers
  3. Rus

    Rus Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2011
    Oddometer:
    570
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    You can check it here but probably around 6500rpm, which is really revvving hard compared with my old 630, which was around 4100 with one tooth lower on counershaft sprocket. A massive difference that you really notice when riding.
    https://www.gearingcommander.com/
  4. Rus

    Rus Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2011
    Oddometer:
    570
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    I’ve ridden the new one briefly in SM form. Whilst it’s smoother it’s not worth me trading up for yet. Different feel to motor, didn’t seem quite as grunty off the bottom but still ample & probably more up top.

    My 701 is also a bit like a brushcutter & nowhere near as smooth & comfortable as the 630. But it’s fine for me on anything other than Enduro terrain, where I use the 501 instead. If I didn’t have the luxury of two bikes I’d choose the 501.
  5. XRman

    XRman Long timer

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    SW Victoria Oz
    I am using 14 47 sprockets. I tried a 15T front, but it was too high for the standard motor to pull ( revved too low in 5th) . A big bore kit might pull the 15 T though.

    The bike feels under stressed at highway speeds ( 110 kph). The gear box whirs a bit but you will get used to it.
  6. Blossem12

    Blossem12 Adventurer

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    Dec 24, 2015
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    63
    Location:
    South Pacific Crimes Gold Coast
    Great that's what I'm hoping for a better highway speed. Thanks for the info
    Cheers
  7. XRman

    XRman Long timer

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    SW Victoria Oz
    You will find that on hills you will need to change between 4th and 5th a bit at highway speeds to keep it" boiling". Once again a 430 kit would make it more lively, but I am resisting doing that, preferring to keep it standard and reliable.
  8. Blossem12

    Blossem12 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2015
    Oddometer:
    63
    Location:
    South Pacific Crimes Gold Coast
    Same here with the reliable part I want to keep it standard are you happy with it was it worth doing
  9. XRman

    XRman Long timer

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    Dec 9, 2006
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    Location:
    SW Victoria Oz
    Yes it is worth it if you intend to keep the bike long term.
  10. Blossem12

    Blossem12 Adventurer

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    Dec 24, 2015
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    South Pacific Crimes Gold Coast
    Yea she a keeper I get a kick every time I ride it
  11. BlueHeart

    BlueHeart Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2015
    Oddometer:
    990
    Location:
    Traverse City, MI
    Several guys are getting 10s of thousands of miles on a big bore DRZ and even on a BB kit and stroker crank.
  12. Adrian V

    Adrian V Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,693
    Location:
    Albany Western Australia
    I need a new front disc for my e model. There's heaps of choices on fleabay, but can anyone recommend one seller/make over another? Anywhere else I can get one for a reasonable price?
    Cheers,
    Adrian
  13. Adrian V

    Adrian V Long timer

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    Jul 15, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,693
    Location:
    Albany Western Australia
    I'm also looking for a decent 15 tooth front sprocket, as the last few have worn out too quick, any suggestions?
  14. Bridgeburner

    Bridgeburner Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2016
    Oddometer:
    59
    Location:
    Australia
    Brains trust, hoping for a bit of help.


    This is the chronology
    -bike in storage for 4 months, old fuel
    -drained tank, drained carby, removed carb, cleaned it, replaced pilot jet and main jet
    -replaced spark plug
    -old spark plug very sooty/black
    -put new spark plug in
    -put carb back in

    Carby didnt start after putting it in, sprayed a lot of carb cleaner into airbox, then it starts up.

    This is where i am at now.

    Bike doesn't cold start unless I spray about 5-6 seconds worth of carby cleaner directly into the airbox. This is with the choke out mind you. If I ride the bike somewhere and leave it standing, then the issue returns after the bike goes cold again

    Noticed at the same time fuel pooling out of one of the hoses when the bike struggled to start and dripping down the swingarm. (this was a once off occurrence)

    Have basically been carrying carb cleaner everywhere I go with the bike to get it to work

    Any ideas?
  15. cobrin

    cobrin Live to Ride - Ride to Live

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2018
    Oddometer:
    152
    Location:
    Australia
    looks like it's back to the carby for another pulldown and investigation, if it's running through the carby then out the drain tube the bowl must be full so the float isn't stopping fuel supply. As for hard starting pretty clear it's still carby related as it runs with a gut full carby cleaner. Hopefully someone more experienced can narrow the carby system down to potential areas.
    Bridgeburner likes this.
  16. Scrubmonkey

    Scrubmonkey Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2016
    Oddometer:
    551
    Location:
    Australia, QLD
    A) sticky float and/or bad needle seat. Replace the float needle and seat, and check the screen as well. If you know you've cleaned the carb up well and its only issue is when cold then

    B) valves if that doesn't stop it. Most likely an intake valve has closed up and that will make starting an absolute bitch until its warmed up then it will run ok.
    Bridgeburner likes this.
  17. schmik

    schmik Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2016
    Oddometer:
    301
    Location:
    Shitney
    I have had some weird carb behaviour when one of the o-rings sealing the float bowl was not the right size. This resulted in a fuel leak out one of the hoses.

    I picked up this DRZ to keep my DR650 company.

    dr400.jpg


    The good: has had $1k spend on getting the suspension setup for a rider approx my weight. Came with safari tank, fat bars, risers, spare filters and cables (all new), receipts for engine rebuild ($2.6k). Repadded seat.

    The bad: indicators all need fixing, needs mirrors, needs chain gaurd, needs DOT tyres. Air filter is at end of life. Rear caliber protector is busted. One foot peg is bent. Trail tech magnet has disappeared and trail tech won't switch off when connected to 12V (i guess i'll wire it to a feed that is off when the ignition is off). Need new grips. Radiator over flow is cracked. Carb leaks if you leave the fuel tap on too long (there is a brand new float needle in with the spares).

    $2.5K for the bike and probably another $500 in parts already ordered. I hate waiting for online shopping!!!
    Safari tank is in the Flea market if anyone is keen.

    Should be fun getting this bike tidied up and rego'ed.
    Should be more fun on the tight stuff than the DR650.
  18. mario62

    mario62 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2009
    Oddometer:
    39
    Location:
    Inverell, NSW,Australia
    as for the front sprocket a genuine one from the S model 15t with a rubbery cush thing moulded onto it is good and last 2-3 times non gen.
    they are quieter to. Heaps dearer(about $100 I think!!!!!) . But I like it.
  19. Bridgeburner

    Bridgeburner Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2016
    Oddometer:
    59
    Location:
    Australia
    I'm quite new to all of this, is there a way to know how if the float is correctly seated/if the needle seat is in the correct position? As for the screen, what is that referring to? Happy to take the time to learn if someone is okay walking me through. As far as I know the float is the plastic covering on the underside of the bowl right? But what's the needle?
  20. schmik

    schmik Been here awhile

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    Oct 1, 2016
    Oddometer:
    301
    Location:
    Shitney
    @Bridgeburner, the float needle is a little bullet looking thing with a rubber tip. As the float.... float on top of the fuel it pushes the float needle up into the seat and stops fuel flow. If it doesn't seal properly then you get leaks when the fuel tap is not switched off.