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Discussion in 'Moto Bellissima: All Other Dualsports' started by Paulvt1, Sep 10, 2008.
950S was what I saw at COTA last month with spiked wheels
So. It appears that they’re no longer available. I have a 2011 S, and the guards are the Ducati Performance racing or Enduro or something. Full aluminium bar that connects to the bar end and the master mount.
They do. Of course. Totally preclude the use of an RCS clutch master. The angled design of the ‘semi-radial’ appears unique to the MTS afaik so stuck with that. And that ‘clutch pump’ is sodding expensive (NOT $200!) so that’s a thing.
Grumpy now! And it’s too early for a beer to salve my battered soul
Boudicca multistrada! Spikes!!! :)
An early prototype
I did note 100 dollars more than a rebuild.
Yes, but the MTS is semi-radial; the cylinder is at an angle. I don’t think an RCS will work, unless someone can correct me.
LOL. Wondered if I’d get comments
The temptation was way too much. Even when you know os just a slight typo.
Your right of course. And that is to facilitate the handgards
Question for the group. Anybody have a tip, or otherwise had luck, getting a tubeless tire with "too narrow" of space between the beads to take air and mount onto the rim? I got a tire today that seems to have gotten kind of squished by the banding during shipping, or is just made with the beads close to each other (as an unmounted tire). When I put the thing on the rim, there was just almost no natural force of the tire wanting to push outward, so I just couldn't get enough air in it to get it to mount. I took it back off and am just going to let it sit and see if it recovers, but barring that, WTF.
I guess I might try taking the valve out of the stem and using my air nozzle (which also has a rubber tip) to get more air in quicker, but who knows.
Put a ratchet strap around the middle of the tire and squeeze it around its circumference. Makes it spread out a little.
Thanks, two guys on my Husaberg thread said same on the ratchet strap so I'll try that. Kinda makes sense as I was able to gain a little by pushing the tire and bouncing it a bit while airing it up, just wasn't enough. I use my NoMar lube, usually tires bead up at like 5-10 psi, so that wasn't an issue. Maybe if I let that thing heat up in the sun it will relax back into shape a bit.
You can also remove the valve core and get air in there much faster. Once the bead is set, air the tire down and install the core and air up to desired pressure.
Yeah, but my air chuck only works when opened by the valve stem, so I'll try the air nozzle when I do it again probably.
Hello all. I have been reading through this thread, but 384 pages takes a minute. I have been eyeballing some 2010-2012 multis and was wondering if there is anything in specific to be aware of or specifically ask the seller about. Also, how bad is the maintenance to do yourself? I have had an SV650 for 11 years, but my aging body can't deal with those ergos for very long any more, and this looks like the ticket. The bump up in power has absolutely nothing to do with it.
ETA: I'm 6'4" 35 years old with the body of a 55 year old. (Thanks Army.)
They aren't any "harder" to work on than any other brand of motorcycle. You will be learning "how many screws" does it take to hold body work on though. Off the top of my head I don't think of anything specific to ask, other than has the maintenance and upkeep been done, and what't the overall condition of the bike? Oh, make sure you get all the keys and codes. Personally I'd prefer a well used, and well maintained and well loved bike over a garage queen that sits on a trickle charger all the time.
Coolant swap? There were some of those that are their heads and exhaust valves (DAMHIK). Never was sure if it was miles or age. I’d think you’d know on a 2010 or 2011 by now though
Getting the tank off is a major PITA otherwise the valve/blet maintenance isn't really any harder than a traditional shim under bucket...though getting to the vertical head is sort of a "who thought this was a good idea" type of deal. Its nothing too crazy.
Thought it was actually a bad batch of coolant thing, like it was acidic, and wasn't it only the earliest 2010 models? I don't recall either specifically, but would agree it would have been taken care of by now.