Ed's Third Trip to Mexico (this time the Yucatan) and so much more...

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by edstoll, Nov 17, 2018.

  1. edstoll

    edstoll OPD-2019 Supporter

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2004
    Oddometer:
    578
    Location:
    Iowa
    Day 35

    Oaxaca City.

    I got a great Airbnb room just 3 blocks from the Zocalo. It was a great find. A really nice place for $27 per night and the location is dynamite. The only problem was parking. I was told there was nearby parking for $100 pesos. Turns out they wanted $350 pesos per day. I looked for other options and finally found a place that would take it for both days for $350 pesos. $10 a day to park a motorcycle sounds high to me but what are you going to do? I sure hope that evil 1290 Adventure doesn't give my poor innocent little Honda any bad ideas.

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    I set out today on foot. I was armed with a listing of locations with street art and Google maps for museums.

    It didn't disappoint.

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    I thought I better get a motorcycle in there somewhere.


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    I am told a lot of the street art has a political message. I don't know. Art and poetry I am just not that deep. It has to be pretty simple for me to understand. This one looks like they are toppling an idol?


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    Sorry about all those pictures. I have a lot more but I imagine that's plenty. I just admire the talent and if I do see a meaning in any of them that's cool too.

    As I was walking I came across an old aqueduct. I could see all kinds of structures built behind it. If fact allot of the openings are now entrances to homes. I took a few pictures and looked it up later.

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    Turns out it is called Los Arquitos. It was built the1700's to supply water to the city until 1941 when steel pipes were laid to replace it.

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    I stopped at Temple de Santa Domingo. Ornate does not even describe this church. Highly impressive every square inch inside is decorated with gold or ornamentation of some kind.

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    Attached to the Church is an old Convent that is now the Cultural Center. It is a museum. The building itself is very impressive. In the lower portion it has a really large collection of really old books. It also has modern art. Paintings and goofy structures of things thrown together all artsy. But on the upper level is a huge collection of artifacts. I could not read any of the information but this stuff is treasure. I didn't take pictures because I am not sure if you are allowed to or not. Lots of security. Even had to go through a metal detector. I did sneak a couple. One of the still and one of a display that makes some kind of reference to the American dollar.

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    Another one for Dan


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    Good to know where this is if I need it.

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    I went to a few museums but the one I liked the best was the boyhood home of Benito Juarez. This is the kind of stuff that interests me. Juarez grew up from nothing to becoming a lawyer and eventually President of Mexico. His story is interesting if you care to research it. Benito's parents died when he was three. His grandparents died after that. This is the home of a man who took him as a boy. He was raised and schooled here. They had English version of the information for me.

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    I will quit there. I am sorry for the long post but I took in a lot today. Saw this and thought it was interesting. 250 cc.

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    Tomorrow Monte Alban and then I roll south
  2. dano619

    dano619 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2011
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    850
    Location:
    sunny san diego
    Just a great RR....no need to be sorry, this is your LIFE/ride report!! carry on!!
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  3. Cal

    Cal Long timer

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    Calgary
    Love all the photos and updates, I could never find the time or inclination to do a ride report, it warms up these cold nights up north Thanks
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  4. DavidM1

    DavidM1 Unicorn hunting

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    UK
    I think the new 19" wheel Honda 500 may be less innocent.
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  5. edstoll

    edstoll OPD-2019 Supporter

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2004
    Oddometer:
    578
    Location:
    Iowa
    Day 36

    Oaxaca City to Miahuetlan.

    I started out the day by retrieving my motorcycle and checking out of the Airbnb. I went straight to the nearby archaeological zone Monte Alben.

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    This one is nice. It is easy to get to and they have done a good job making it accessable. I even seen accommodations for wheelchairs. The interpretive boards had English on them also.

    Once again I took a ton of pictures. Here are a few.

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    The whole site has a commanding view of the valleys all around it. No doubt that's why it was built here. Location location location.

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    It also has a very good museum. Lots of artifacts.

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    I wonder what the cause of death was on this person.

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    The ride back down the hill to highway 175 was worth the price of admission.

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    As I went south it took awhile before I began to get out of town and into the curvy road. The problem was everyone else was there also.

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    At first blush I thought this guy was flipping me off.

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    I stopped early in Miahuetlan at the excellent Hotel Diamante Plaza $300 peso about $16 dollars.

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    While walking to supper I seen more street art.

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    Tomorrow begins the real twisty roads.

    The days stats.

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  6. kmaries139

    kmaries139 n00b

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2018
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    8
    Location:
    Arkansas
    Finally caught up again, Padre! It looks like you had a phenomenal week!! I love the pictures- much better than the computer screens I stare at “working” every day! How was the boat ride? Smoother than the ride to Yelapa? I’m glad you met up with some locals and found some beautiful spots! Lookin good! Love, Sis
    edstoll likes this.
  7. Markaso del Norte

    Markaso del Norte Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 4, 2012
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    47
    Location:
    Victoria BC Canada
    Thank you for the great report. I'm really enjoying your photos, and following along on your epic adventure. So many great places to visit, man I need to head south soon!
    edstoll likes this.
  8. edstoll

    edstoll OPD-2019 Supporter

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2004
    Oddometer:
    578
    Location:
    Iowa
    Day 37
    Miahuatlan to Huatulco

    I had heard about the roads in this area and was looking forward to today. This is a portion of what I rode today to give you an idea.

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    It was wonderful. Always curving. Varies degrees of camber and radius. Mostly smooth and wonderful with great scenery and vistas. I started out at 5000 feet elevation and got as high as 9000 feet. It was plenty cool but I didn't put in the jacket liner or heavy gloves because I knew directly I would be coming down to the ocean and it would be hot. The first part of the day I was thankful when I was on the sunny side of a mountain. By afternoon I was thankful when I was in the shady side. When I was up high the unmistakable scent of the pine trees made me think of Colorado.

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    If it wasn't too early for lunch I would have stopped and tried the gringo burger.

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    For a couple miles it wasn't too good. They were putting new tar and rock on one side. I don't know if you can see it but that car is putting up a rooster tail of tar and gravel. It was sticking to everything. I was able to ride on the far left side of the road avoiding most of it. Thankfully I never met anyone coming my way.

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    Soon enough I was through it and back to fun and games.

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    Nice little town in a beautiful area.

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    Took the back way out of town.

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    It got a little challenging but not too bad.

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    Back on the highway. Watch where you're going.

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    One at a time.

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    There's the ocean.

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    Watch where you're going.

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    There has been a lot of money spent around here. It is built up pretty good.

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    I dropped my luggage at the hotel and rode around to the various bays and beaches.

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    I don't know if you can see them but there are two green birds there that were talking to me.

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    I think some of these beaches you have to be in a club. Or maybe just the restaurant I don't know.

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    This was a public beach. Almost deserted.

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    Great fine sand.

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    I don't think this was a game I think these guys were doing physical training.

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    It was starting to get late when I got to this beach. It looks like a good one for surfers. I ordered up some fish tacos and watched them surf. Some of them seem to be pretty good at it.

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    I headed back to hotel Monte Flora for the night. I walked up to the park to see what was going on. I found a hair dresser open. She cut my hair for $50 pesos that's less than three bucks. I know I don't have much hair but that's still less than a third of what my barber charges. I can't wait to tell him about it. She was much nicer looking than him also.

    I was tired when I got back to the room and the wifi was bad so I put off my chores for a day. Now I'm catching up.

    Days stats.

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  9. Sjoerd Bakker

    Sjoerd Bakker Long timer

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
    2,975
    'G 'night Ed .Have good warm tropical snooze . Now do you get why I recommended two days for the ride from Oaxaca to the coast ? You did and still that got you tired .Keep it fun , slow it down , doodle around en route , spread a long ride over two days(or + ?) snoop around all the villages , don't drive yourself to get a certain distance done for the day and you will be less likely to get tired. Getting tired leads to poor reflexes and it reduces your enjoyment . ( so does touring a drug lab and sampling the wares - and THEN riding !:muutt)
    By the way , I never said one should never repeat ride a route- Recently I suggested another person " do laps" on Mex 2 at La Rumorosa, and I have told others on ADV that if one finds a particularly delicious bit of road to turn around and ride back and forth a few times. Doing theentire Mex 175 round trip in one day qualifies but that is a bit extreme and could really get you pooped.
    :lol3
    edstoll likes this.
  10. FKNBUM

    FKNBUM Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2007
    Oddometer:
    107
    Location:
    ex-Alaskan anchored down in Anchorage
    Excellent report and photos! Did you just pass through Mazunte? We are on Royal Enfields (black) and saw a bike like your's pass by. Ride 175 if you want tourist free twisties. It's even better than 130 between P. Escondido and Oax.
    edstoll likes this.
  11. edstoll

    edstoll OPD-2019 Supporter

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2004
    Oddometer:
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    Iowa
    Yes sir that was probably me. I sat beside the road right there for awhile.
  12. edstoll

    edstoll OPD-2019 Supporter

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2004
    Oddometer:
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    Iowa
    Okay I think I got day 37 fixed up. Now to do today and I will be caught up. Today was interesting.
  13. edstoll

    edstoll OPD-2019 Supporter

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2004
    Oddometer:
    578
    Location:
    Iowa
    Day 38.

    Huatulco to Puerto Escondito

    Today I was looking forward with anticipation to seeing Zipolite. To those who don't know Zipolite is a nude beach. That's something you don't see everyday. I would be going right by so I thought I would check it out for the novelty. I stopped for a fine breakfast of coffee roll and milk at Oxxo. As I was sitting on a curb dining I looked up and seen this billboard.

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    How could it be that I would be coming through on the same weekend as thier festival? Oh well it is what it is. More on Zipolite in a bit.


    I took off south from the highway down a sandy road to get to a beach I thought might be pretty secluded. The sand was not deep because they grade it. You can tell by the windrows of sand on the shoulders. I learned today that my 16 inch front wheel combined with a shinko 705 is not the most confidence inspiring in sand. No drops but it was fun in places.

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    I thought way back here it would just be me and the beach.
    I rode the 8 or 9 miles back to it to find it is very built up. About 50 restaurants.

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    Not many visitors though.

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    I took this picture to try to decipher it later. I think it has something to do with condoms.

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    I was probably just too early for all the people. Or maybe they are all at Zipolite. Actually on the ride back out I was meeting tour busses.
    I stopped to look at big bird on the way out.

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    I wonder if my wife knows this is what I am thinking about when I tell her we will go south for the winter.

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    Back on the highway.

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    Watch where you are going.

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    Sticky pavement.

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    I found a gem of a spot to hang out. West of Puerto Angel but still east of Zipolite find this lighthouse.

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    To help you out this Y intersection is only about 100 yards south of 175. Veer right at this Y. That will get you to the tower.

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    At the tower take this path.

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    It is a short hike but technical. Watch your footing. A slip would be disastrous.

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    You will be treated to a beautiful view and the sounds of the crashing ocean far below you. People obviously go out there but I am relatively certain you would be out there all by yourself most of the time.

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    Okay now for Zipolite. It lives up to it's reputation. It has a hippy vibe but there is a whole range of people there. Clothing is certainly optional. Just like I have heard as a general rule the ones who are wearing clothes could probably get by without and the ones that aren't probably should dress. I would estimate about 30 - 40% were undressed or mostly so. As I was leaving there was a traffic jam. Being on a motorcycle I have the privilege of filtering to the front. It turns out the traffic jamb was caused by a large group of nude bicyclists. The police were providing an escort. It is amazing what a person can see around here. I know you want pictures. Sorry. You can see it for yourself when you come take a liberating swim yourself or after you find that lighthouse I just told you about.



    Not far on down the road is San Agustin. Very nice town seemed very family friendly. Probably a great place to spend some time in the winter. Not to big the town just felt right.

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    The sea turtle center is there.

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    On down the road I took off again towards the ocean on a dirt / sand road.

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    I went until I got stuck in sand. I only had about 100 yards left to the beach so I walked the last of it.

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    I was the only one there.

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    I made it to Puerto Escondito and Hotel Martina's. Excellent hotel in the centro for 490 pesos. $25. I cranked up the air-conditioning and caught up on my chores.


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    The days stats

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  14. edstoll

    edstoll OPD-2019 Supporter

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2004
    Oddometer:
    578
    Location:
    Iowa
    1549245298213210532593.jpg Day 39 is going to have to wait. Hotel WiFi in Juquila just won't cut it. I hate getting behind.
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  15. waverunner800

    waverunner800 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2013
    Oddometer:
    24
    Ed--We continue to track your progress on Spot Tracker, and continue to zoom into street level and see a little of what you're seeing. We know it's not live, but any time we catch a motorcycle in the picture, we claim it's you (you'd be surprised at some of the bikes you've been on). Noticed some of your route today did not have street level capability though (the road between 131 and 200). I bet that was a fun ride. I hope someday I have the time to take a trip like you're on now...
    edstoll likes this.
  16. edstoll

    edstoll OPD-2019 Supporter

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2004
    Oddometer:
    578
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    Iowa
    Yes Doug I doubt the little Google mapping cars went down that road. Yes it was fun. Report coming.
  17. edstoll

    edstoll OPD-2019 Supporter

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2004
    Oddometer:
    578
    Location:
    Iowa
    Day 39.

    Puerto Escondido to Santa Catarina Juquila

    The day started with a visit from Brian. He is on a tour of Mexico also and we had been following each other's ride reports. When we both ended up in Puerto Escondido I sent him a message to meet up for breakfast. He left his posh resort to eat breakfast with me in my lowly hotel resturant.
    His ride report is here. https://advrider.com/f/threads/brians-first-ride-report-mexico-2019.1359708/.

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    It was good to meet up with another motorcycle traveller and have a conversation in English.

    I rode around to a few of the beaches and bays.

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    Something you see regularly in Mexico. This guy is juggling in front of cars stopped at a stoplight. Just before it turns green he works his way along the cars for tips.

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    Beaches smeaches bays smays time to get out of town.
    Puerto Escondido pretty good town but let's head for the hills.

    I was going to go west on Mexico 200 but it was hot as blazes and going north looked more interesting.

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    The road varied from rock like this.

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    To exquisite pavement like this.

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    Some rougher but very grippy asphalt.

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    Oh and the scenery was gorgeous also.

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    I rode into the town of Juquila.

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    The streets are very narrow. The town is built on a rugged mountain so some of the streets are steep. I mean real steep. First gear on the throttle leaning over the bars steep. No pictures of that for you I was busy. I found Hotel Juquila.

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    It is right across the street from the police station where the nice police officer flagged me down to let me know I was going the wrong direction. I stopped there for the night I needed to check this town out because it seemed different.

    The Virgin de Juquila is a statue that survived a fire in 1633. It was moved to a santuary that was built for it and thousands of people from abroad make a pilgramage her to see it. Look it up if you are interested.

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    There were people entering the Santuary, dropping to their knees and walking on their knees up to the statue.

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    In the markets here there was some of the normal junk but there was a lot of venders selling religious items and copies of the Virgen de Juquila.

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    Chicken quesadilla with mole sauce.

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    I couldn't do my ride report so I walked around a little more.

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    Why they would have this noisy screeching bird in the hotel I don't know. I would rather they had decent internet. It was another great day. I'm still pinching myself.

    The days stats

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  18. steved57

    steved57 Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2007
    Oddometer:
    767
    Location:
    East Texas
    Wow what a fabulous ride report and great pics
    Thanks for all the effort put forth - I've read it since the beginning and am really enjoying your trip
    edstoll likes this.
  19. dano619

    dano619 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2011
    Oddometer:
    850
    Location:
    sunny san diego
    Really like your report.....and your travel mileage!
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  20. edstoll

    edstoll OPD-2019 Supporter

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2004
    Oddometer:
    578
    Location:
    Iowa
    Day 40

    Juquila to Santa Maria Zacatepic.

    First I want to put up a couple more pictures of Juquila. The first to give you an idea of how steep some of the streets are. You kind of have to walk sideways down hill.


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    This is the main road through when not going downtown.

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    Here is today's route. Ignore the red flag it doesn't mean anything.

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    Started out paved. Watch where you are going.

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    Beautiful ride.

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    Watch where you are going.

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    After San Miguel Panixtlahuaca it turned to dirt. It was early in the day and I had plenty of fuel no problem.

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    Sometimes it had a rocky surface.

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    This cow was watching me from above. She's probably thinking "look at that stupid gringo down there".

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    It was a really good ride.

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    I was glad to see this bridge. I could see on the GPS I would be crossing a river. I was hoping it wouldn't be some kind of water crossing.

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    Sharing the road.

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    Watch where you are going.

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    I eventually made it back to pavement. You still need to be on your toes because you never know when someone is going to be in your lane.

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    They were nice enough to get over before they got to me.

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    I took this picture over the front wheel to try and show how these tight twisty roads are getting me to the edge of the tires.

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    Watch where you are going.

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    Highway 200.

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    A couple of big BMW GS came by me. I sped up to see how fast they were going. 85. That was a little too sporty for me.

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    Turned north on Mexico 125. It was a nice ride.

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    125 so far has been very worthy.

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    With two days of ride report to do I decided it was late enough in the day to stop at Santa Maria Zacatepic.

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    Another great day.

    Statistics

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