Ed's Third Trip to Mexico (this time the Yucatan) and so much more...

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by edstoll, Nov 17, 2018.

  1. edstoll

    edstoll OPD-2019 Supporter

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    Day 44

    Taxco to Zitacuaro

    I tried to build a map to put on here to show today's route but Google maps does not like my routing today. Especially going north of of Taxco. Got tired of fiddling with it so just know today was almost all curvy pavement. Good pavement also.

    Taxco has to be the place where all old Volkswagon Beetles go. I am not exaggerating when I say they represent one third of the cars here. They use them for taxi cabs. Painted white I am sure there are hundreds. They are everywhere all of the time.

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    There are also bunches and bunches of private ones.

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    I count at least 5 in this picture alone.

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    You need a mountain goat to get around the streets. Maybe the bug is just good here.

    These are just from my walking around last night. I had a lot more Volkswagon pics but I thought that was enough to give you the idea.

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    I took off out of town from the south going north west of town. It started climbing immediately.
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    I seen a turn off for the Mirador del Cristo and took it.

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    I wish I would have known about this. I would have been up here at sunrise to watch the sun come over the mountain and illuminate the city.

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    On up the road I went.

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    The road had a few challenges. Nothing bad and not for long.

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    It was pretty. See the little motorcycle?

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    I went through an area where the monarch butterfly winters. All of a sudden there were swarms of them flying in front of me. I stopped at a roadside area right there. There were people with horses saddled up. I don't know what they were trying to tell me but I think they wanted me to give them 300 pesos to ride a horse somewhere. Probably to see butterflies.

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    Travelling on.

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    I was going to overnight in Valle de Bravo. Between the first hotel scaring the hell out of me with it's price and the horrible traffic I went right on through. The rough cobblestone had the traffic pretty much a standstill. I suppose because it was Friday afternoon but just way too many people. I soldered on.

    This place has the hedges trimmed in the shape of animals. There was many more I just took a couple of pictures.

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    Got as high as 12000 feet in elevation. It felt like Estes Park.

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    No pictures but the 15 libre into Zitacuaro is a hoot.


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    The days stats

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  2. Cal

    Cal Long timer

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    Nice day Ed! I have to tell you your report is one of the best I have read for slow travel and interesting places in Mexico, Bravo
  3. edstoll

    edstoll OPD-2019 Supporter

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    Day 45

    Zitacuaro to Quiroga

    This was highway 15 all the way. This turned out to have one of my favorite stretches of road for this whole trip so far.

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    It started gentle.

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    Then I came to this sign. I already knew which way I wanted to go to Morelia based on looking at my GPS but I went ahead and plugged these words into Google translate.

    Corta means "short" mil cumbre means " thousand summits". Ha that's a no brainier.

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    I didn't know it at the time but this road is kind of famous.

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    It deserves any fame it has. Oh my gosh was it fun. I wish I could get pictures of the scenery behind the trees. What an awesome road.

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    See the little motorcycle?

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    I don't know if you can see them or not but there are 4 waterfalls in this picture.

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    It is worthy of a hike back into them. I should have took the time but didn't. Only went a little ways in.

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    Just before Morelia stopped here for lunch. The owner/cook lived in Los Angeles for twenty years before coming back home. Because he could speak good English we had a good conversation. I like this part of the world. Morelia and there abouts a have a lot going for them. A great climate helps also.

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    Morelia seems to be a very pretty town. It also has this massive aqueduct running right through it.

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    Although Morelia would make a great overnight stop and deserves more exploring it is a big city. I am ready to be out of cities for awhile. Another note about Morelia. Earlier in my trip parts of Mexico was having a gas delivery problem. Stations out of gas and the ones that did had very long lines. I hadn't heard of any problems in the last few weeks. I had not fueled yet today because I knew I had plenty to get to Morelia. Imagine my horror when I seen a line about 30 cars deep at a gas station. Then I started seeing stations closed because of no gas. No gas is a real problem for me. I still had probably 75 to 100 miles worth of gas. A big sigh of relief when 20 miles later all is normal. I don't understand.

    Back to the rural areas I prefer.

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    Coming into Quiroga. Not near as big a city. Looks like a good place to overnight and circle the lake tommorow. Also some Archelogy zones nearby.

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    I checked in to Hotel Quiroga very nice hotel for 280 pesos. $15. I spent about 4 hours walking around and people watching. It is hard to keep from eating myself to death. Yum yum yum and I like to eat but I am resisting. Also these Mercados that sell all the crap. How on earth do they make any money? There are lots of merchants all selling the same stuff. It's safe to call it stuff right? One thing I have observed the people in Mexico work awful hard for so very little. How many pharmacies can a town support? How many cell phone suppliers? Who needs all those phone covers? I am not trying to be critical it's just confusing to me. Later on I have a question about banking. I will save that one for now.

    It was another marvelous day. They just keep coming.

    The days stats

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  4. Cal

    Cal Long timer

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    Ed
    Acapulco is full of VW bugs also!
  5. DavidM1

    DavidM1 Unicorn hunting

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    "Aventura" - great! And that's almost your bike in the picture.
  6. NAVIGATOR

    NAVIGATOR Wanderer

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    Quiroga has the best pork carnitas you can eat (many vendors downtown, carts and restaurants), you are near beautiful P√°tzcuaro and Tzitzuntzan where you must visit the Yacatas ruins and the large church-museum just behind the artisans market.

    Safe riding
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  7. edstoll

    edstoll OPD-2019 Supporter

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    Had the pork carnitas. :dukegirl yum.
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  8. edstoll

    edstoll OPD-2019 Supporter

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    Day 46

    Quiroga to Uruapan

    This was a nice Sunday morning to cruise around Lake Patzcuaro and then take in some Archeological cites.
    But first a few more pictures from Quiroga last evening.

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    Started out today sharing the road with a lot of bicycles. I would imagine that is a regular thing on Sunday around the lake.

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    Quite a bit of fog on the lake.

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    I stopped at the Ihuatzio ruins. We have to get @DavidM1 his fix.


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    The stones at this site are all just stacked. Not cut to fit or any mortor that I could see.

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    Like I said all just loosely piled.

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    Some of it is coming down.

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    Besides the caretaker I had the place to myself.
    Moving on down the road and sharing it as we go.

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    This one is done up nice. It is easy to access and has beautiful views from it.

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    Different than any others I've seen.

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    There is a nice museum on site.

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    Even the outside of the museum is nice.

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    Pressing on to the next one.

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    This one the structures are notably smaller. Almost more cozy instead of grand or striking.

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    Under the shelter is the entrance to a tomb. They removed one skeleton and several skulls from it.

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    Entrance to the tomb.

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    Stuck the camera through the bars.

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    This was pretty cool. The roof is built over an area where a ceiling has collapsed into a structure. I didn't see anything anywhere that said what the deal was or what they might have found inside.

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    Looking in under the temporary roof.

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    Further down the road to my overnight stop.

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    That's my room number 8 right beside my motorcycle tucked into the courtyard. Hotel Palacio 250 pesos about $14.

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    Clerk gave me a tip on some local cuisine that a lady makes and serves right at her home. A couple of tables set up in front of her house. Very good.

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    Chores done. Days stats

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  9. DavidM1

    DavidM1 Unicorn hunting

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    Brilliant, thanks Ed. You visited all 3 of the sites there! They look great. In fact that whole region looks very nice.
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  10. Mofrid

    Mofrid Been here awhile

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    Thanks for this great RR.
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  11. edstoll

    edstoll OPD-2019 Supporter

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    Day 47

    Uruapan to Coalcoman

    Today is easy but winding pavement with a few miles of loose rock thrown in. Mostly great smooth pavement though.

    Sometimes I stop at the entrance to a town to photograph their welcome sign. I think this one is Nuevo San Juan Parangaricutiro. I didn't notice the guy up there with a black facemask and holding a rifle. I took the picture got on my bike and then I seen him looking at me. I rode up as usual and he directed me off to the side. All I could see of his face was his eyes. He was telling me something and of course I couldn't understand. I motioned and ask for a moment. I pulled off my helmet and pulled out an earplug. After a few seconds he realized we were not going to be able to communicate he waved me on. I would have been nervous and shaken on my previous trips to Mexico but it doesn't even bother me anymore. It has become normal for me to see all the heavy police presence.


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    I thought the red flowers were pretty.

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    Started out cool in higher elevation.

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    It turned to rock.

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    Sometimes some pretty sporty rock.

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    But it was pretty out there.

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    This is avocado country. On the gravel portion of my ride they were hanging over the fence into the roadway. Drive up avocados.

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    Narrow bridge. Good thing there is not much traffic.

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    As I started to lose elevation the landscape opened up and the temperatures came up.

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    Infant propped up in the middle.

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    It got hot.

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    This truck grabbed my attention.

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    The toddler is helping drive.

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    I had gained back some elevation so it wasn't quite so hot. I decided to call it a day at Coalcoman. Checked into Hotel Bautista. 200 pesos about $10. The cleaning lady said she could do my laundry. Great tacos right on the plaza. I took the time to do some bike adjusting and pigeon watching.

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    I seen a guy tuning up a harp. This might be all right.

    The days stats. Take note of the max speed. I had to put something up @Cal said I was slow.

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  12. edstoll

    edstoll OPD-2019 Supporter

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    Are you calling me slow? :-) Thanks for the complement.
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  13. Cal

    Cal Long timer

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    That one photo shows you are wearing the latest Tour a tech summer gloves, pretty pricey piece of gear for a Honda rider.
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  14. VTbeemer

    VTbeemer Traveler Supporter

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    I think he meant underachiever...

    Terrific Report!!!

    Dan
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  15. edstoll

    edstoll OPD-2019 Supporter

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    I should have put on one of my less stretched out gloves for the picture.
  16. edstoll

    edstoll OPD-2019 Supporter

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    Day 48

    Coalcoman to Manzanilla

    This morning my laundry was suppose to be done by 8 am. At 8:30 I was told about another hour. So I went walking. Coalcoman is a nice small town.

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    Folks of my vintage that grew up in rural areas remember stock racks in pickups. That is how a lot of livestock was transported. I can't remember the last time I seen a stock rack around home. This poor old 3/4 ton GMC has a load. The front end was sitting pretty high. It also had old California license plates.

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    Fido was keeping an eye on things from a high tactical position.

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    I finally got my clothes back at 11 and away I went.
    Here is the first part of today's journey. A++++++++++++

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    It started out innocent enough.

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    But then turned into smooth and curvy with great views on each side.

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    You still need to watch where you are going.

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    This is an A1 plus motorcycle road. It's surface and configuration encourage a sporting pace. It's eye candy scenery encourages a more dawdling pace. Whatever your passion this road is sure to satisfy.

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    Can you see the face on the rock way up there?

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    This is as far as I could zoom.

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    Watch where you are going.

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    Stopped for lunch.

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    Found the ocean.

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    My friends and family are suffering through yet another winter storm. As a show of solidarity I thought I would let everyone at home know I am suffering too. It is blazing hot here. I think it was 86 when I checked into my hotel. When I went to get in the pool the water was a little chilly. Don't worry about me though after a couple of seconds it was tolerable.

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    Oh ya kind of lonely here also. Whoa is me.

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    Days stats.

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  17. LegoBrew

    LegoBrew n00b

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    Cool trip. Thanks for taking the time to share.
  18. edstoll

    edstoll OPD-2019 Supporter

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    Day 49

    Manzanilla to Ciudad Guzman

    Today's route

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    If you ever get the chance to do this route take it. You will be loving life.


    Leaving Manzanilla. It is a port city. They have those huge cranes in the ports to off load those containers stacked way high on huge ships. As I was leaving there was a large dust cloud everywhere. Kind of like following someone on a gravel road only it was everywhere.

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    I was glad to get out of the city and back in the country.

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    Large mining operation on the hill.

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    Stopped at El Salto for a waterfall fix.

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    Here comes the volcano.


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    I went around the volcano to the west. This is not the way I had planned to go but it looked interesting. I am so glad I chose this route. I was presented many views of the volcano and I took a lot of pictures. It is Mexicos most active volcano.

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    They were harvesting by hand. With big corn knives men would cut down the stalk and stack it. They did have a machine for picking up the stacks and putting them on the truck.

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    CD Guzman seems to be a prosperous clean city.

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    Although with 100000 inhabitants they do have traffic.

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    I think I will call it a day right here. I am serious today's route is one to do if you ever get the chance.

    Stats

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  19. DavidM1

    DavidM1 Unicorn hunting

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  20. edstoll

    edstoll OPD-2019 Supporter

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    Thanks for the tip but I am not going that way this round. I went right by there last February and should have stopped then.
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