Ed's Third Trip to Mexico (this time the Yucatan) and so much more...

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by edstoll, Nov 17, 2018.

  1. bikermd

    bikermd Been here awhile

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    I believe that volcano is El Feugo. I climbed it back in the 70's. There is a national park just outside C. Guzman that takes you up to Nevada de Colima another great mountain in the area (about 14,000ft). Great place. Lived 4 years in Guadalajara and went there often. Enjoy. Don't forget to stop in Tequila. They have another volcano behind the town that used to have a stone road almost to the top. We'd climb the communication tower at the end of the road. Doubt you'd be able to do that now.
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  2. edstoll

    edstoll OPD-2019 Supporter

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    Day 50 starting to wind down

    Ciudad Guzman to Ocotlan

    Today's route.
    Ignore the lables and the red pin they mean nothing. I just put this up so you can see my route which is the blue line.


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    It started out cold and real foggy.

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    It's too bad I wanted to see the lake north of CD Guzman. As soon as I got away from the lake and increased elevation it cleared right up. A pretty day.

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    Thanks to a tip from Sjoerd I have a more obscure route to take. I got off the main highway here.

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    It was loose rock sometimes rutted and rough. It made for a nice change from the roads I have been on lately. 20 miles of it.

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    Crossed the dam of a nice duck pond.

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    Sharing the road but sometimes I had to get insistent that I get a portion of it.

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    This atv with three girls on it and a pickup truck were all I seen on this 20 mile stretch.

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    Sometimes the rocks were big and the ruts deep. But all very doable.

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    Back on pavement when I got to Concepcion de Buenos Aries. This town to me was cleaner and nicer than average. If you are looking for a smaller town to hang out in check this one out.

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    I made a loop around to get on the southeast side of Lake Chapala. I then did a clockwise run around it. The South side is mostly agricultural with some cities here and there. Looks like very fertile crop land and of course there is plenty of water.

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    Picture of the old White road tractor because I like it.

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    This lake was pink. I don't know why.

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    I could look towards the north side of the lake and see how built up it was around Chapala and Ajijic. My GPS at that point says it is about 8 miles straight across the lake. I worked my way around there and the traffic got bad. The restaurant signs started being in English. Very busy very built up. I was going to stop for the night around there. It was a bit much for me. I turned at Walmart and went on to Ocotlan.

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    I checked into Hotel Acurio 340 pesos. I highly recommend it. Very nice especially for the price.

    I bummed around Ocotlan a bit. Nice plaza and a nice Malacon along the river. I even ate at a real restaurant. I had a marvelous salmon dinner and two Coronas for $12.

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  3. edstoll

    edstoll OPD-2019 Supporter

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    Not going to get to Tequila. I screwed up not stopping there last February. When you climbed the volcano could you get to the mouth ?
  4. bikermd

    bikermd Been here awhile

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    The volcano was not active then. It had a very flat top with huge loose boulders and stank of sulfur. Have enjoyed your trip. It brings back very good memories.
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  5. Ol Man

    Ol Man Long timer Supporter

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    Enjoying your report. I like how each town you are in, you show us the nice, colorful city signs.
  6. edstoll

    edstoll OPD-2019 Supporter

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    Day 51

    Ocotlan to Silao

    Today was just some meandering about. I needed to go through Tanhuato to take a couple pictures for a friend at home. He is from here. Pretty town.

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    Otherwise today I just farted around mainly in rural areas generally headed for Guanajuato.

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    I feel sorry for the guys driving these long doubles. Number one the roads would beat you to death. The next thing would be negotiating traffic. I followed and watched this guy thread this thing through a small town around corners. Not for me.

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    Tequila has its own route?

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    Jalisco thanks you for visiting in 6 languages.

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    Now to see what Guanajuato has to offer.

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    Very nice modern Hotel Los Reyes in Silao. 450 pesos

    days stats

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  7. DavidM1

    DavidM1 Unicorn hunting

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    I had a look - the one I found seems to be a circuit to the west of Guadalajara. They must have extended it.
  8. bikermd

    bikermd Been here awhile

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    don't know if you did any night riding. When I lived there if the car coming at you at night turned its lights off briefly you'd better hit the brakes now. They did that so that you could better see the cows in your path. Driving thru the twisties if there was a small pile of stones on the road edge it meant there was an obstacle ahead - could be anything. Weekends the road from Guad to P.V. (Puerto Vallarta) could become one way - friday traffic to PV and sunday the other way back to Guad. It was routine to have a car pull out to pass with full traffic in both directions and everyone would just part - sort of the parting of the red sea. Driving during the monsoon season could get interesting. The water would wash the sand (volcanic rock) out from under the roads and they would collapse when driven over. Saw many a truck on its side with a new hole under a wheel. Having said all this I do wish I was back there. The central high plateau has some of the best weather in the world. I lived behind Tequila Sausa's bottling plant and across the street from the corona brewery back then.
  9. Sjoerd Bakker

    Sjoerd Bakker Long timer

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    Bikermd , the volcano Ed is dealing with is the VOLCAN DE COLIMA.
    You are mistaking it for V. FUEGO
    which is in a totally different country.
    They both have the similar classic comic structure people associate with volcanos
    V Colima does not have visitors access to the top , too dangerous with frequent eruptions
  10. bikermd

    bikermd Been here awhile

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    Volcan del Feugo is in a national forest next to the park that has Nevado de Colima, it too is an old volcano. I have been up both multiple times. you get to both from Ciudad Guzman. El Feugo is the active one that's what the locals call it - its what you call Volcan de Colima. Nevado de Colima is inactive and the taller of the two (14,000). I am using the names the locals call them. Back in the 70's neither was active and while no formal trails to the top of el Feugo was an easy but long climb (about 12000ft). All the mountains in the area are part of the same volcanic complex. The park for Nevado de Colima has a building at about 11,000 ft that climbers etc can use and stay in. There is a small 6 person shelter at about 13000 ft on the other side of the mountain. There are trails up it and climbing is allowed. The road up to Colima has 6 or more inches of dust most of the year at lower elevations and at times are unable to see and must stop and let it clear before going on. Hopefully it is paved by now. Never saw such dust before or since. Have seen VW bugs make it up but we usually used 4wheel drive vehicles.
  11. LogHouseBikers

    LogHouseBikers Been here awhile Supporter

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    Isn't the usual route for tequila... shot glass to lips to stomach to liver? :photog
  12. edstoll

    edstoll OPD-2019 Supporter

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    Day 52

    Silao to San Jose Iturbide
    With stops in
    Guanajuato and San Miguel de Allende

    Last night I walked up to the plaza. It was a long walk but worth it. The weather was beautiful and there were a lot of people there. A man was on the stage strumming a guitar and he was pretty good. Nice voice also. There was already a drum set and another couple of guitars on stage. Pretty soon a couple more guys joined him. I guess he was just playing while he waited on them. Once the three of them were on stage he really stepped it up. They were cranking out American rock and roll . He was singing songs I knew very well but in Spanish. It was strange but very good.
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    Went straight to Guanajuato this morning. The town is interesting. Sandwiched in rugged hills the streets are a maze. Lots of tunnels. I rode through downtown and then rode around a high scenic loop. I could not get a picture worth a darn in any of the tunnels. They were dark.

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    Up on what I think they call the Panoamica.

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    That is a real big mine shaft behind the fence.

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    I went wandering out on rock roads mainly to the east. I was hoping to find a back route to San Miguel Allende but I failed. If I would have pushed on I might have done it but ultimately I retreated. It was still a nice couple hours out in the sticks.

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    I got to this little village.

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    I went under this tunnel.

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    And the streets got real narrow.

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    I was able to put my right pannier up against the wall. He squeezed by just barely compressing my left pannier.

    I wondered around for a bit until I realized all exits out of town in this direction were very primitive. I turned around and caught back up with the same pickup truck. He was having a stand off with a delivery truck. The delivery truck eventually backed back out through the tunnel and we escaped.

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    I continued on looking for a route east. The road on my GPS that goes through was blocked by a gate and a guard. He would not let me through.

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    I talked to a couple different ranchers well I tried to talk. Did the best I could with no language skills. They indicated the only way to San Miguel was back to Guanajuanto. So with my tail between my legs back I went. Next stop was this archeological site.

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    It is a pretty new discovery. I tried to get in but was informed you could only go with a tour and the next one starts in an hour. I tried to get her to let me in to just take a look. I was willing to pay full entry fee but no dice. It kinda soured me so I just left. Too bad I bet it is pretty good.

    Then I came into San Miguel de Allende.

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    Sorry no pictures of the downtown. I was too busy fighting traffic and pedestrians. It is a cool town and all but my God the traffic and congestion. I would rather take a beating. I couldn't wait to get the hell out of there.

    Once I got out of the mess and up the hill I stopped for a few pictures.

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    If I ever go back I am going to park, budget several hours and ride one of these. If they allow you to drink.

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    Nice seeing you SMA but I am moving on.

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    Much better.

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    Entering San Jose Iturbide.

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    This area looks like it has a lot going on industrial wise. I am looking forward to tomorrow. If what I have read is correct I will be on great roads and taking a hike to God's Bridge.

    The days stats.

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  13. Sjoerd Bakker

    Sjoerd Bakker Long timer

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    Bikermd , I stand corrected , thanks for explaining .
    I have been using the name Volcan de Colima as that appears on my 1978 Pemex road atlas map and AAA map and others as official .
    The " Fuego " name is a descriptive and seems to be used in various llocations. That is why I thought you might be referring to the " Fuego " that blew away a bunch of tourists. hiking up a cone in Guatemala within the last year
  14. DavidM1

    DavidM1 Unicorn hunting

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  15. yokesman

    yokesman Long timer

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    Ed looking at one of your pics, your handguards look large. How well do they work n what make? Thanks for the ride report.
  16. edstoll

    edstoll OPD-2019 Supporter

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    Day 53

    SJ Iturbide to Jalpan de Serra

    I was looking forward to today because from what I had read I am in for a treat on highway 120. But first we have to get to highway 120. This is encouraging.

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    The road started climbing and it was glorious. Beautiful expansive views and great roads.

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    I screwed up at Santa Caterina. I took the wrong road heading northeast. I was so wrapped up in the unbelievable roads and views I wasn't paying attention.

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    When the road started to degrade I got suspicious and realized I had run about 30 miles up the wrong road. I contemplated going on but I really wanted to ride 120. Now at the motel lookng at it I probably could have went on to Boquillias. I am glad I turned around though. It wasn't like punishment to ride the thirty miles back on that road.

    Back on track on highway 161.

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    At Penamiller they had the road blocked. No traffic through town for a celebration or something. It was an easy detour.

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    I had yet to meet or see another motorcycle all day. I thought that was strange given the wonderful roads and weather on a Sunday. When I hit highway 120 that all changed. More motorcycles than on any other day of this trip. Speaking of highway 120. If it is not on your must ride list put it on. It belongs at the top of that list in my opinion. I have traveled just shy of 7000 miles in Mexico this trip and it is my favorite. Wow. No picture I took is worthy of this route. And I am not enough of a wordsmith to describe it.

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    Thanks to a tip from @eakins I knew about
    Puente de dios ( God's Bridge). I am glad he gave me the tip. I would have rode right past it otherwise.

    The road out is worth the price of admission.

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    Steep drop and tight switchbacks to get down to the river.

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    Once you are there you hike quite a ways back all along the river. You actually cross the river several times on bridges like this.

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    It's a good hike.

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    This is God's Bridge. It is a natural bridge over the river. Kind of a tunnel.

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    It was Sunday and a lot of people were enjoying it.

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    The rest of the way to Jalpan was just as good.

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    Chores done. Days stats

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  17. edstoll

    edstoll OPD-2019 Supporter

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    Yokesman, the brand is Ediors. I got them off eBay for less than $20 I think. Just search universal brush guards. They make them a couple different sizes these are the larger ones. They do a great job of deflecting wind. They are only plastic though. They are not bark Buster's and they would break if you started slamming them into trees. I dropped the bike last year on concrete. A zero mph drop. It broke the guard but it may have prevented a broken lever I don't know. Here is a picture I messed up today. I saved it just for you so you could see the backside.

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  18. Phlyn' Phil

    Phlyn' Phil Been here awhile

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    That road to Jalpan is something isnt it? from the west dry side and dropping down in to the green side is such a change. All gas and brakes. Dont forget to go to Las Posas and Xilitla if you havent already...
  19. Cal

    Cal Long timer

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    hey Ed still following along, presently in Sonora. Just a comment on the dust particles showing up in your photos. Find a vaccum and put it up against the lens and suck away 2 or 3 times and it may clean the spots right up, it worked for me.
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  20. RedDogAlberta

    RedDogAlberta High Plains Drifter

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    Great stuff!
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