Electronic ignition to points conversion

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by TJ530, Jun 12, 2019.

  1. TJ530

    TJ530 n00b

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    Hi All , looking at converting a 1994 BMW R100GSPD to points ignition and would really appreciate if someone has done a guide to do the job.
    #1
  2. Beemerguru

    Beemerguru Beemerguru...G/S guy

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    First question is why?

    Either get the points-in-a-can that only came out for about 2 years during the points to electronic conversion.

    or

    Install older timing cover, points, condenser, wiring..around 1980 R100 version IIRR.

    Then I'll ask if you have a dual plugged system..then it gets interesting.

    or just install this and go for a long ride

    https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/edl-boigns.htm
    #2
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  3. TJ530

    TJ530 n00b

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    I live out on a rural property and I Like the idea of points.
    Would be going for points in a can with dual ignition coil from memory 3 ohms.
    Was hoping not to have reinvent the wheel so any help is much appreciated, I have the Haynes manual.
    #3
  4. Big Bamboo

    Big Bamboo Aircooled & Sunbaked Supporter

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    No need to change the wiring. Just swap the can to the points version, and run a wire from the condenser on the outside of it to the new coil(s), bypassing the electronic ignition. You could leave the original for backup (or just carry that wire), or if it ever needs to be made stock again. zw15.jpg
    #4
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  5. TJ530

    TJ530 n00b

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    Thanks for the info, I have a lot to learn about the best options.
    #5
  6. nobbylon

    nobbylon Long timer

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    I have Boyer on my 90s, never touched it in 20 years. Can’t say the same for the points variants. Carry another module if you want back up. It’s far easier to change than replacing points and setting them on a dark miserable night anyway!
    #6
  7. toecutta

    toecutta Been here awhile

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    hey TJ

    If the bike is running it may be creating work for you for little reliability improvement? If you are doing this to restore back to original, totally different discussion and i apologise for wasting your time with this post

    Lots of airheads over this way are running a electronic ignition (myself included)... in the last 12 months ive done >45,00km including the last OCR to Mt Dare and recently the GCR with zero problems or concerns. If you were a Nervous Nellie, you could always carry a spare sensor like some do points / condenser on longer trips? if u are on facebook have a look at "Airheads BMW Motorcycle Riders" ask John Olive what he thinks (caveat - he does sell the electronic ignition)

    best of luck
    #7
  8. 190e

    190e Long timer

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    The electronic tacho connects to the same terminal on the coil as the points. If it's a dual output coil then polarity and terminal numbers don't matter but the tacho connection is still on the coil terminal that connects to the points. Diagram is valid for all airheads.


    Ignition Circuit 1979 to 1980 R45 and R65.jpg
    #8
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  9. Niko

    Niko Adventurer

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    I have been looking at the EME ignition setup also, but thought that replacing the coils was part of that conversion. True?
    #9
  10. 190e

    190e Long timer

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    Agree he couldn't retain the 1.5 ohm electronic ignition coil or coils with a points set up. 3 ohms primary resistance is the notional minimum for points although in practice a pair of the original 6 volt points coils in series is nearer 2.4 ohms total so if I was looking for a dual output coil as an alternative I'd be happy to go down to 2.4 ohms but no lower.

    There are ways of getting points to work on the 1.5 ohm electronic coils using a GM HEI or Ford TFI module and people have done it but it's more an option for electronic enthusiasts.
    #10
  11. patrkbukly

    patrkbukly Life at 10,000 feet

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    YEa it's a piece of cake.
    You will never look back.
    I haven't.


    Buy the Green 3 ohm coil and bracket, really easy.
    #11
  12. ccmickelson

    ccmickelson MonoMania Supporter

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    Speaking from a lot of experience with monolevers over several decades and piles of miles, riding in all kinds of conditions (and I'm no doubt cursing myself for saying so) but I've never had a single issue with a factory ignition module, (monolever or otherwise). I can only recall once actually applying fresh heat sink paste to any of them. The only modules I've ever had any issue with are the two "heavy duty" upgrade modules that EME sells and they were both useless malfunctioning crap and both still sitting on a shelf in my shed. YMMV
    #12
  13. Warin

    Warin Retired

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    As per 190e...
    The feed to the tacho comes off the coil .. it is not a special signal and the tacho will work with points - just hook the tacho up to the coil the same way as the electronic system. Easy.
    #13
  14. TJ530

    TJ530 n00b

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    The bike is not going at the moment , some time back I changed the ignition module used the white heatsink past, I think from memory it was an enduralast or somthing like that. Coming home one night it backfired and I got home about 10kms from home. Next day no start , its been in the shed ever since for quite a while. Thanks for the input from everyone.
    #14
  15. Disston

    Disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    Others have made this same change and for much the same reasons I suppose. If you want a points ignition you can have a points ignition.

    The points in a can were 2 years only, 1979 and 1980. Find one of those and the rest is easy.

    The modern gasoline four stroke engine is a marvel but has little resemblance to machines only a few years ago. Now it's computer controlled, catalytic cleaned, fuel injected, dwell controlled, cleaner than ever imagined and more powerful to. That's today. Your '94 machine is not much different than a '79 machine. Or for that mater a 1936 machine. It has a carburetor. It is analog mechanically controlled.

    Good Luck with it. Report back how it works out.
    #15
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  16. sprouty115

    sprouty115 Long timer Supporter

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    @Plaka could you explain what you mean by your comment above? I'm confused because the ignition system I bought from EME has Mottorad Electrik printed on it?
    Screenshot_20190615-081641_Chrome.jpg

    And it also says this:
    Screenshot_20190615-082117_Chrome.jpg
    #16
  17. TJ530

    TJ530 n00b

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    Back on topic, just wondering if anyone can give details about what to expect when fitting and removing a points bean can also any details about working on a points bean can would also be appreciated?
    #17
  18. 190e

    190e Long timer

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    The points bean can is a straight swap. Just wire it as the diagram I posted above. Before you fit it, set the points gap on the bench and lube the cam. There is no felt pad so use a trace of grease directly on the cam. Note that when you set the points gap do it with the outrigger bearing plate in place which is not too difficult on the bench but much harder with the bean can in place especially if you are not familiar with it. The reason for mentioning this is if you set the points with the outrigger plate removed the gap will change when you refit the plate.

    Points.PNG
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  19. Big Bamboo

    Big Bamboo Aircooled & Sunbaked Supporter

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    If you buy a used bean can, it's a good idea to replace the o-ring that seals it to the case.
    #19
  20. TJ530

    TJ530 n00b

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    Just wondering about the wire that connects to the points bean can , how does this happen and is it easy to get to the connection what ever it is?
    #20