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Discussion in 'Moto Bellissima: All Other Dualsports' started by motomikedh, Feb 28, 2008.
And here are the pages for the rear suspension.
Use those pages to figure out what parts you need, then start the search. I highly suggest you join, then post on firstname.lastname@example.org
Lots of help available there. Someone in North America might have a used shock they could sell you, as many of us have upgraded to aftermarket shocks. Or, as previously mentioned, you could buy a nice aftermarket shock from Elefantadventurebikes.com
As good as the bike is stock, a good aftermarket shock transforms the bike.
As far as bolts go, again, someone might have a used one to sell you from a parted out bike. Who knows, maybe you’re local casa de tornillos will have what you need, or something you can modify, perhaps with the help of a local machinist or welder.
I rode one of my Elefants from Colorado to Nicaragua twice in the late 1980s/early 1990s, and was able to repair some surprising things along the way with what I was able to source locally and weld/bend/modify to fit.
Best of luck getting it fixed, and let us know how it turns out. I’m happy to help however I can, but unfortunately, I am currently about 5,000 miles from my Elefants, (and their parts supply) and won’t be back there until October.
Send them a note with what you need and they will help you out for sure. The workshop manual is visible when you open an account with information in multiple languages. https://elefantadventurebikes.com/contact-us/
Wow thank you so much guys! This is a huge help.
I just went and took a better look with a calmer head and more light and I think it may just be a straight ahead take out the old shock and put in a new one. You guys tell me.
What I see is the spring itself is curved, not in a straight line. The piston (not sure if thats what you call it) that attaches to the bottom bracket is out of the tube that holds the gas. The bottom part is angled all the way forward, not even close to up and down because its not attached to the other half of the shock anymore. In short, the shock is in 2 pieces. I don't know how it happened, didn't cause some kind of spectacular incident or accident and I rode it like that a few times without realizing.
Is there a how to on shock removal and replacement anywhere for the Elefant? The bolts look nice and rusty/seized, that may be the biggest problem.
The thing that I thought was bad news was just the top roller guide for the chain. I'll deal with it later.
I might have a spring/shock, I will check later.
That would be amazing, thanks! I'm also going to try and see if once I get the old one off if there's a comparable size available down here or some Mexican magic that someone can do that won't cost me an arm and a leg. Even that "basic" one from the website above is like $550 USD, plus shipping and customs and I'm not working right now.
Removal is pretty straightforward. This might be a good time to remove the link arms and swing arm and check all those bearings. They tend to go bad over the years due to water incursion and lack of lube. There has been a lot of traffic regarding parts for this on the Elefant forum I linked to earlier. If just doing the shock, it’s a very quick and easy procedure. I have little doubt that some Mexican mechanic could a similarly-sized shock from something else and find a way to install it if you can’t find a used original. Best to go with something made for the bike though if you can.
Here's another guide to the 900 elefant rear suspension that made the rounds a few years back.
FYI, if you just want to replace with a used oem rear shock, there are a couple on ebay, particularly from Germany.
FWIW, the Cagiva Gran Canyon 900 uses the same rear shock in addition to the elefant…...
Ok, got the shock out. Once I was able to find someone to lend me a scissor jack it was like a 2 minute job. Now to find a replacement shock...anybody got one they want to get rid of?
I don't have a stock one, my bike came with a Bitubo ZXE shock - and I must say, it is pretty awesome! If you have any means to do so, now would be the perfect time to upgrade.
Alternately, you might see if a place like Racetech could fix it with a rod from another bike shock, or find a GC 900 shock on Ebay. Whatever you get, if it is used, you should have it rebuilt.
Yeah I worked shit out so that I'm gonna get that DDL M2 from the elefant website. It's gonna take a while to get here but I'm pretty excited.
In the meantime, I noticed that when I press my rear brake pedal the brake light isn't lighting. It works fine for the front brakes and the rear light works fine.
The rear brake uses a pressure switch that screws into the banjo fitting for the brake line. Pull back the rubber cover from the switch and make sure the wire connectors are still attached and making good contact. It’s not uncommon for those wires to get accidentally disconnected. If that doesn’t fix it, use an ohm meter to check the continuity across the switch when the pedal is pressed and released. If the switch seems ok, the next thing to check would be the other end of the switch harness. I’m assuming that the hydraulics are working ok and the brake master is making pressure. If the switch is bad, you can purchase a generic replacement, just make sure the threads are the same. My recollection is that Cagiva/ Ducati use 1.25mm vs 1.0 mm thread pitch.
Has anyone taken one of the rear brembo's apart at all?
Going by the image below, which is how most of them seem to be setup (unless the rear Nissin is present), the hole under the bleeder-valve seems to have two fluid ports in it, and the hole under the brake line only seems to have one? A mechanic has told me the two fluid ports would ordinarily indicate one is the return port for the brake line? It's difficult to find examples from other bikes which used this particular caliper, I think it might have been used as part of a front-pair on some Ducati monsters in the 90s.
In case you still need an original (used) shock for a not too bad price, there is one on ebay in germany. Would set you back approx. € 160,= including shipping, ex. eventual duties etc.
Aren't the 2 ports just the holes to the 2 bores in the caliper? The brake line only needs one since the fluid would flow via the front bore, through the 2 holes, to the back.
These calipers were never used on Monsters, those had the same 4 pots that were used on SS etc.
Greetings E900 fellow owners.
I recently put on a set of Keihn downdraft 39 FCR on my 94 E900. They perform well but I've got an issue where at higher rpm
the stock mikuni vacuum diaphram pump will cause too much pressure in the front carb causing it to flood the front cylinder, with
all the inherent problems that can cause. It's not the needle valve/seat that lets fuel into the float bowl , those have been replaced.
Have any of you experienced this problem and found a solution for it. Thanks in advance for any replies you may have for me to consider.
I am thinking of putting a Y pipe in with a return to fuel tank or a temporary auxillary tank to test this theory. Thanks, Tom
The fuel level in a full gas tank is above the level of the float bowls. As such, you could bypass the fuel pump entirely to test your theory.
I know this because my fuel pump wasn't working for years, and my Elefant 900 ran fine. I was only going for relatively short rides and always topped off the tank when I returned from the ride. I only found out after doing a top end rebuild after I noticed that I had a broken cylinder stud.....I only had a small amount of fuel in the tank, and the bike would start but subsequently die out. I was perplexed until I finally realized that the fuel pump wasn't working - probably for years.
Watch out for those float valves on the FCR's - when the bike is parked for any length of time they have a nasty tendency to leak and flood the crankcase with gas....BTDT on my 900ss (twice ) and it's not just me. Good practice with FCR's is to have fuel shutoffs and use them. If you don't want to mess with the ones on the tank, buy some in-line shutoffs and install them in the lines. Best of luck.
It's been a long time, but I recall the fuel pumps were notoriously weak. Back in the day someone discovered a fuel pump from a snowmobile I think that worked well and was a low cost replacement. Sadly, I don't recall much more than that.
I don’t have FCR’s on my ‘Fant, but have used them on singles. I assume the o-ring on the outside of the brass needle seat was replaced too? I’ve had those leak and it’s essentially the same thing as a leaky needle/seat combination but harder to find.
That darn O-ring has caused many headaches. Now on my routine replacement list.