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Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by TobyG, Aug 20, 2017.
Got an 06 wiring loom twinspark ABS can check that for you this weekend
Worked more days than I initially wanted, which once again didn't leave all too much time for the bike.
That I'm mostly working on details right now, barely leaving any visible signs of progress, doesn't help.
Either way, the coolant expansion tank (super duper custom piece ) is in place
I got some more titanium bling to put on the bike, this time allowing me to practice my (non-existing, as evidenced by the slack in the wire) safety wiring "skills".
On this occasion I want to mentioned that 7 out of the (currently) 10 titanium fasteners were chosen not only because I could. Including these two, which are M8x37.
I've chose Ti since I didn't want to cut steel bolts (rust and all that) and sure am not going to to trust stainless bolts in such a critical and highly stressed connection.
The biggest part of today was spent working around the (known) issues the header presented.
At this point, I feel it'd be wise to mention that this is a one-of-a-kind header that was originally made for an F650GS equipped with an italian Trofeo rear end, but bone stock apart from that.
Now the first issue was too little clearance between the footpeg bracket and the frame to get enough of an angle to clear the swingarm. That issue was already existing with just the stock swingarm and solved by grinding the rear of the bracket back a little and additionally welding a guide pin for the header onto said bracket.
Not an issue with the stock header or stock footpeg brackets. But nothing is stock on this thing anymore.
Now with wise foresight, and due to the Touratech swingarm being wider than the stock one, still, I had designed my brackets to sit 6mm further out.
Turns out that wasn't enough.
So I did the same thing I did before, grind the bracket back a little on the rear and weld a guide pin on. Got about 1mm of clearance left and right now. Not much, but good enough.
Next issue, recall how I said the header was made for a bike bone stock apart from the rear end?
Well, that includes the engine subframe. Mine, of course, isn't stock though, but raised.
The O2 sensor however, is supposed to go exactly where the subframe bars on my bike go.
I did grab a tiny O2 sensor hoping that might do the trick, but unfortunately I was still shy a couple millimeters, which left me with two possibilities. Either to go ahead and cut the bung out of the header and move it (as well as patching the hole) or modifying the subframe bar in question.
Can't say I fancied welding on a thin, well over a decade old and well used header (even cleaning to prep it ....), hence I cut a V into the subframe bar, welded some sheet metal in and reinforced it. Not pretty, but it'll do.
Still had some sunlight left after that ordeal, especially the footpeg bracket issue took a while to get right, I connected the fuel lines and FPR, just to find out I didn't have enough small hose clamps.
Allow me to point out another small detail, making servicing easier and quicker,
the quick release in the line between the FPR and the injector.
With that in place, the only tools I need to undo the whole rear end are a Torx T45 and a 13mm wrench. Three electrical connectors, the quick release, 4 bolts, two nuts and it's off. Five minutes, tops.
Either way, called it quits at that point.
Almost, that is. Made and welded the mount for the kickstand switch. Didn't break any taps this time around
Man, I like that quick-disconnect subframe.
I say this as the owner of a KTM 690 Enduro which has a slow-disconnect subframe/gas tank.
Hey! It's starting to look like a bike again! And a suhweet one at that!
Look Ma, I made a 690 Katoom owner jealous of that heavy, slow lump of a 650GS that I got
Again, baby steps.
Replaced the bushing on the rear brake lever, since it was weeble wobbling all over the place,
put the rear brake switch on, didn't have the correct size screw (M5x6) before.
Took care of a couple other minor details.
Got the light pod mounted and adjusted, all working fine, just have to route the wiring the way it's supposed to go.
LED low beam, Xenon high beam.
The "original" halogen served the purpose of being seen rather than it actually allowed you to see anything for yourself in the dark,
Finally wired up the turn signal relay and tested the disco lights for proper function.
Wasn't sure they'd still work after cramming all that crap into the (slighty undersized) slot that I'd milled into the speedo mount.
Somehow I though a slot 4.5mm wide would be large enough for seven 3mm LEDs,
it did, of course, turn out that's a bit on the small side, once you account for the peripheral components, namely 7 diodes, 8 resistors and a bunch of wires.
Had to be crammed into this slot (first load of resin already poured when this photo was taken):
It all fit, but just baaaarely. Next time I'd just cut the darn slot larger.
Another 1 1/2 days of just small details and such. Most of which I'm sure I have forgotten about already.
I recall P clamps for the oil return hose, one large part I swapped entirely because of a minor detail (I'd be surprised if anyone spots it)....and some more.
Got some parts from my small parts lathe guy,
namely the proper spacers for the rear wheel, so far I had some parts I machined from aluminium in their place just to check whether I got the numbers right, and footpeg bolts.
Oh, and those springs?
The result of not being able to buy any stainless springs that could be made to work with my footpegs and brackets for a reasonable price and/or in a reasonable quantity.
Turns out making your own (small) springs is quite easy, no fancy tools required at all.
Spring calculators are available online or you get your machinists' handbook and a calculator out.
In other news the footpeg brackets are now finished and painted, again, details. Had to grind one weld down just a little on the edge, but had to test fit the kickstand springs a couple times to get it just right.
Gave the bike a kick right after, random check for crash-worthiness
Now that the rear wheel had the proper spacers and - since it was out - to correct, overhauled sprocket carrier was installed, time to move onto the clutch. The center nut is far easier to install if you can use the wheel to counter the torque.
The trusty ol' Z-Start going back in.
Whoever guesses (or counts) how many tungsten and how many steel balls (27 total) I use wins...
Installed, ready to be buttoned up. Arrow marks the repaired thread (careful with the torque there; the previous owners' fuckup, not mine, I swear!).
Now for some lighter entertainment, the most useless titanium bolt on the entire bike,
I present to you, the banjo for the fuel tank vent/aux tank connection:
But to to soothe those saying I am wasting money on titanium bolts,
here's a weight comparison for two M10 bolts on the front engine mounts I replaced for a mere 18€ (Note: Those are ones that I changed for Ti just because).
Yes, that may have been a waste of money, if for nothing but the bling factor. Don't tell @Wildebeest90210
Love the attention to detail I have been wrestling with the idea of the Titanium bolts myself, as a matter of interest where do you get yours ?
Critical fasteners (e.g. for the brake) only from reputable sources,
e.g. Component Engineering in the UK has a good, high quality selection (and does custom work, too).
As far as silly stuff like that breather banjo is concerned, I may be guilty of ordering right off of Aliexpress.
Turns out I the wire going to the neutral sensor is grounded.
Craptacular. Hopefully an easy fix, not too keen on tearing out the wiring loom over this.
And just a few minutes ago I thought today might be the day to put coolant oil and fuel in to let the bike breathe.
Edit: Scratch that. Got the polarity of one diode wrong.
No harm done, quick soldering job and it's back on track.
Got it! First start in two years!
Apart from one hell of a rattle coming from the timing chain and a slighty weak battery, it all looks good.
Fans come on at 106/107°C on the speedo, sensor is in the left radiator,
and quickly cool it back down until the fans turn off.
Factor in that the bike was at a standstill and it was 30°C in the shade today, that looks promising to me.
To recap, the cooling system got two rads, together slightly larger than stock,
a CNC'd pump impeller and two fans with superior flow rate.
Today once again was mostly time spent on details and of course putting fluids in.
About 1.5L of coolant vs. 1.2L stock and 3.2L of oil vs. 2.3L stock.
I couldn't help but put the clutch and throttle cables on to take it for a quick spin up and down the road...boy did I have a grin on my face
But the rear tire is overdue, being 15+ years old. Plus the front end is (as expected) waaaaay soft.
Tomorrow I'm gonna swap the timing chain tensioner, relatively common part to fail on these engines, so that should sort it out.
Mind you, I didn't really do anything to that engine, so I sure hope that's the cause.
Lest I forget, @Gravel Seeker :
I presume that is what you meant when you said your Trailtech speedo didn't properly display the RPM?
Gonna have to take a closer look to check for possible fixes
Yeah sort of, but it was my Touratech IMO. I have the Trailtech Striker now and it doesn't have a rev counter - I made it this far without one - I'll make it another 15 years.
I don't protest your cooling system is superior, but I have to say I'm very impressed with the larger G650GS fan on a stock first gen. Dakar too. From 106 to 90 only takes a couple of minutes when riding in 30C. (Pushing a little 70-90km/h on twisty single lane back roads).
Oops, had that memorized incorrectly.
Regarding the cooling system, who knows, maybe it isn't and I wasted a bunch of time and material, time (and practical testing) will tell.
I saw someone in the G650X thread cutting holes/ slots in their after market fender to match the stock fender and thought I should do that too with the KTM fender I'm using, but I looked it over and the radiator is so high compared to the rear of the fender I wonder if there's even a point - I mean, is it better to protect the radiator from clogging with road spray or give it a little more air? Maybe better to let the fan move the air and the fender protect the radiator...
I'm going with a vented fender again, after all the radiators do have protection from the rad guards (1.5mm stainless).
Got me a used Acerbis Baja again, just have to trim it a little in the front to fit under the beak.
It's a fast paced day and age - 9 days and counting between updates feels like a life time.
No time for updates - the (past) weekend came close at quick enough a pace.
Will have to post some form of recap of last week.
But the bike is (almost) finished.
Got it through road inspection Friday morning, bolted the remaining parts on right after and loaded the bike up in the van to head out to the Offroad Days.
Unfortunately I ran out of time to laminate the proper rear plastics, so I had to bolt the (mutilated) KTM plastics on.
But the molds are finished, so there's that.
Over the weekend I went from this (don't have a single photo of the assembled bike when it was still showroom clean)
What can I say. Runs good, front suspension is surprisingly not too far off,
forks came off of a (110kg or so?) GasGas 450, I only preloaded the springs that were in with a 15mm spacer and reduced the air gap from 100 to 70mm.
Still dives a bit much under heavy front braking, but other than that, pretty happy with it. For my riding skills anyways.
The rear I'd preloaded a bit much. Lowered the spring preload once over the weekend and fiddled with the clickers a bit,
but needs to have less spring preload still. The rear kicks like a mule once it gets really bumpy, especially so at high speeds.
Cooling works darn well, not once did the fans come on, despite the heat, neither on the slow-ish speed single trails, nor on the high speed flat track or MX track.
Saw about 104/105°C coolant temps max, didn't really pay attention to the oil temps.
Crash-ability seems good, once laid it down after a mis-shift into neutral on a table right before a steep uphill,
another time the engine just misfired and died in a banked turn on the MX track (was low on fuel at that point).
The third time I proper crashed by hitting a rut in a bad spot, sending me straight off of the Enduro track. Oops.
Technically the bike "fell" over once before all that, since I kicked it over to prove a point. Ain't the right Enduro for you if you're afraid of doing that.
even to a "brand new" bike.
There might a scratch or two hidden under the mud, but nothing broke or bent, so I'd say it went as planned.
And boy, was it fun to once again meet a couple friends and to play in the dirt again on the bike after such a long time!
I don't think there's any action photos though, unless the track photographer caught me at some point.
Just for the sake of it,
here's a list of issues revealed by test rides:
-turn signals stopped working altogether
-cannot start the bike in neutral with the kickstand down
-horn lasted less than 20km (you can still hear a very faint *beep*)
-ziptie bases for the rear brake line need to be bolted down, glue didn't hold up
-exhaust bracket could be a bit more sturdy
-header could do with a few slight modifications to allow for better mounting of the bashplate
-front wheel needs to be balanced - never bothered with this on knobbies before, but I reckon moving the rim lock and valve closer together instead of having them opposite of each other didn't do me any good, hence I'll balance them out, will do the same for the rear wheel
-the self amalgamating tape I used to wrap the wiring loom doesn't like heat. In other words, I'll have to re-wrap almost the entire wiring loom with something else.
-I want a manual radiator fan switch...don't really need it, but since I have to remove and re-wrap the loom anyways...
-fuel warning light does come on very early, thereby being useless
That's it, I believe. Some of these have already been addressed, but I'm behind on updates either way.
The harness bit really sucks