F750GS / F850GS Oil Change

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by AdamChandler, Feb 2, 2020.

  1. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    Vote4P3dr0 over on 850GS.com posted a great how-to for the oil change on these bikes. Since it's 2020 and we still don't have a service manual, I'm posting it here too so it has its own thread. Full credit to this user who did an amazing job on the write-up:

    BMW Recommended Oil: BMW Motorrad ADVANTEC ULTIMATE Original BMW Engine Oil 5W-40 Synthetic Engine Oil (3 Liters).

    1 x 16mm OEM Copper Crush Ring (BMW Stock # 07 11 9 963 252) Note: Replace Every Oil Change.

    1 x OEM Oil Filter (BMW Stock # 11 42 7 721 779) Note: The Short Oil Filter Is Replaced By A Long Oil Filter During The Running In Check.

    Note: As An Alternative You May Choose To Use Any Engine Oil That Meets The Following Standard: SAE 5W-40 API SL/JASO MA2.

    Step 1: Remove M16x1.5 Drain Plug Using A T50 Torx Socket And Drain The Oil.

    Step 2: Remove Sealing Ring (Copper Crush Ring).

    Step 3: Remove The M10x1 Oil Filler Plug Using A 5mm Hexagon Socket And Drain The Oil. Note: This Plug Is Directly Above The Main Drain Plug And Must Be Removed To Drain All Of The Engine Oil.

    Step 4: Remove The Oil Filter (Long Oil Filter Wrench BM Stock # 11 4 650)

    Note: The Short Oil Filter Is Replaced By A Long Oil Filter During The Running In Check. (Short Oil Filter Wrench BMW Stock # 11 4 661).

    Step 5: Clean The Oil Filter Sealing Face And Lubricate With Clean Engine Oil.

    Step 6: Install New Oil Filter Using Oil Filter Wrench # 11 4 650 (Torque To 11Nm or 8.11 ft-lb).

    Step 7: Install The M10x1 Oil Filler Plug Using A 5mm Hexagon Socket (Torque To 10Nm or 7.37 ft-lb).

    Step 8: Install The M16x1.5 Drain Plug With New Sealing Ring (Copper Crush Ring) Using A T50 Torx Socket (Torque To 25Nm or 18.43 ft-lb).

    Step 9: Remove The Oil Dipstick And Fill The Engine With Engine Oil (Engine Oil Capacity With Filter Change Is Approximately 3.0 Liters. Engine Oil Capacity Without Filter Change Is Approximately 2.7 Liters).

    Step 10: Install The Oil Dipstick And Run Motorcycle For Approximately 30 Seconds To Allow Oil To Circulate Then Turn Off The Motorcycle And Add Remaining Oil. Remove The Oil Dip To Check The Oil In Accordance With The Owner’s Manual.

    Note: (From Owner’s Manual)

    * Only Check The Oil Level After A Longer Journey Or When The Engine Is Warm.

    * Wipe The Area Around The Oil Filler Opening Clean.

    * Allow The Engine To Idle Until The Fan Starts Up, Then Allow It To Idle One Minute Longer.

    * Switch Off The Engine.

    * Make Sure Ground Is Level And Firm And Hold Motorcycle At Operating Temperature Vertically (With Center Stand).

    * Wait Five Minutes To Allow Oil To Drain Into The Oil Pan.

    * Remove Oil Level Dipstick And Clean Measuring Range With A Dry Cloth.

    * Fit The Oil Level Dipstick Onto The Oil Filler Opening, However Do Not Screw It In.

    * Remove The Oil Level Dipstick And Check Oil Level (Oil Level Should Be Between The MIN and MAX Marks). Note: Difference Between MIN and MAX Marks Is 0.5 Liters Of Oil.

    * Re-Install The Oil Dipstick When Complete.

    Here are some torque values:
    [​IMG]

    You can use this kit which has 4 oil filters + tool + washers you'll need: https://www.beemerboneyard.com/11427721779wck.html (don't forget ADVRIDER discount code for 10% off)

    I'm not going to tell you what oil to use :p


    User: Xyzzy on the same thread posted this tip which we used and it worked brilliantly:

    How to remove the oil filter without making a mess.

    1 - Let bike cool off for about an hour.
    2 - Put a sheet of aluminum foil over and around the catalytic converter.
    3 - Scrunch the foil to create a trough.
    4 - Put a catch basin under the foil.
    5 - Poke a hole in the top and bottom of the oil filter with a nail and a hammer.
    6 - Wait overnight and most of the oil will be out of the filter. The little that is left there still won't make a mess because it will just drop onto the aluminum foil.

    Only difference is, we didn't wait overnight just 15 minutes and the oil filter drained into the aluminum foil and down into the reservoir. No oil got on the exhaust or bike.
    #1
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  2. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    I followed that guide last night and it went perfectly. Using the OC619 Mahle oil filter (which works on my R1200GS as well as our F750GS) along with the oil filter tool. I'm using Liqui Moly 5W-40 because that's what I had 3 liters of. but between that, Motul, Rotella and Advantec, use whatever meets the spec & weight

    We put in 2.8L and it showed full on the dipstick, after running the motor for 30 seconds, it showed just above the Low line so we added .2L for a total of 3L and oil level was dead center. Good enough for me!

    [​IMG]
    #2
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  3. SnoDrtRider

    SnoDrtRider I've been lost here before...

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    BTW Service manuals are now available on CD from your dealer BMW # 01 59 983 1848 My dealer quoted me $112.00 and I have one on order he said about two weeks.
    #3
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  4. Der Kaiser

    Der Kaiser Caped Crusader

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    Are the service manuals available for a Mac or can they only be read on a PC? Thanks.
    #4
  5. heatmizr

    heatmizr n00b-tastic

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    Thank You for posting this.
    Bookmarked!
    #5
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  6. mazocar

    mazocar Been here awhile

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    2020 and we are still selling stuff on cds. WHY? they should just come out with a mobile version or a file on a micro sd.
    #6
  7. bobwolff68

    bobwolff68 Adventurer

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    I just did my 6k oil change on my F850GS. Used the repair manual spec and had no troubles. But I was VERY happy to use this technique of poking a couple holes in the old oil filter to let it drain without oil dripping on the CAT. Super happy with a totally clean job. THANKS for the TIP!

    bob
    #7
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  8. ssilliman

    ssilliman Been here awhile Supporter

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    I don't see anything about the upper drain plug?
    I have heard its not necessary but it shows up in the manual to do?
    #8
  9. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    I don't have the service manual, @SnoDrtRider does so can post the photo but yes another it seems .2-.4L of oil was in the 2nd pan so had I not removed the 2nd drain plug, I would have only been draining 80% of the oil.
    #9
  10. bobwolff68

    bobwolff68 Adventurer

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    Yeah - after removing the T50 main drain plug, inside there is a 5mm hex (it is *NOT* a Torx) drain plug for the secondary pan. No big deal to remove if you have gloves on. :doh And when you re-install it, the torque value is only 10Nm. I've heard it should NOT be over-tightened. Given how much oil came out, I would consider the secondary drain a very important item. Otherwise you have a lot of old/dirty oil mixed in.

    bob
    #10
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  11. RL Lemke

    RL Lemke Long timer Supporter

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    Wow! I think this 850GS is a new market for my replacement inner oil plug. Works great on the K1600 and is used around the world.

    The BMW inner oil plug is the same as used across the BMW auto line, with a mere 3mm insertion of the 5mm Allen tool. If some ham fisted service person over-tightens the plug, it is easy to strip the plug.
    #11
  12. ssilliman

    ssilliman Been here awhile Supporter

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    They put some standoffs around the space between so you cant lose the plug like a 1600
    #12
  13. RL Lemke

    RL Lemke Long timer Supporter

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    Not as much losing it, with the shallow 850 sump depth, but making the removal and insertion more reliable, eliminating all risk of stripping that drain plug.

    I'm going to look for someone who wants a free oil plug to test and see if my replacement plug works. My concern is the separation distance between the top of the main oil plug and the bottom of the inner plug. My whole new replacement plug should work great.
    #13
  14. ssilliman

    ssilliman Been here awhile Supporter

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    Nice
    #14