F800GS Handlebar replacement

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by oz mal, Nov 8, 2015.

  1. oz mal

    oz mal Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2009
    Oddometer:
    36
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    Hello ADV Riders,
    Has anyone replaced the handlebars on their F800GS?
    What's involved? What happens with the heated grips? Are they re-usable?
    Any advise and pictures would be appreciated.

    Cheers,
    Ozmal.
    #1
  2. Wallrat

    Wallrat Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2011
    Oddometer:
    957
    Location:
    Orange County, Ca
    The problem as I understand it is the controls are thru-bolted. To switch to an aftermarket brand means having to drill a hole into the new bars. I'm no expert on bar design but I imagine the engineers at Pro Taper didn't do strength testing with a hole drilled through their bars. One of those weird German engineering solutions where you swear they did shit just to be different.
    #2
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  3. LavaFrog

    LavaFrog Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2010
    Oddometer:
    79
    Location:
    CalaverasCounty home of the Jumping Frog
    This worked fine when installing risers and ProTaper bars, no bolt to screw the heated grip portion into(at least when I did this a few years back) So make sure you have the bars in the position you want. Then push your bits and pieces on to the bar. Heated grips still work fine, however, when I pushed my accel side its on there snug, and could not readjust easily. Sorry, no during the mod pictures. I actually, made my grips fatter during this change over.
    #3
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  4. Loutre

    Loutre Cosmopolitan Adv Super Moderator

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    #4
  5. ADVwxyz

    ADVwxyz yep

    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2015
    Oddometer:
    636
    Location:
    vancouver
    and


    Hi All,

    I replaced my '15 GSA handle bars with Flexxbars.
    Photo 2016-10-13, 3 39 28 PM.jpg

    Here is the handlebar I removed. Note the through holes on both the left side and the right side.

    Note the handguard attachment points as well on the ends of the bars.

    RS Bottom
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/hbcwcab3b3ii0w1/Photo 2016-10-13, 3 45 09 PM.jpg?dl=0



    RS Top
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/ldpc1hlnai4ywkl/Photo 2016-10-13, 3 46 18 PM.jpg?dl=0


    LS Top/Back
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/evbclzp25ag9cj3/Photo 2016-10-13, 3 45 28 PM.jpg?dl=0


    LS Bottom/Front
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/ga20md3ngpapbv1/Photo 2016-10-13, 3 45 22 PM.jpg?dl=0



    The OEM sweep angle is 19 degrees.

    The Flexxbar I purchased was the 15 degree Super Tenere Adventure FL-1004-15-32.5 which is 32.5" wide, as I wanted a wide bar, with a more natural sweep angle for when standing.

    The OEM 19 degree angle I did not like, nice to sit down but... yea do real miles standing with it and your wrist gets wonky IMO. It is personal preference plus I have had a couple of surgerys on my left elbow, so it had to do with widening my arms to relieve issues inside on the ulna nerve and to have the wrist at an angle more natural to my extreme mountain bike experience.



    The posts from other riders above are accurate- here is more information:

    The left grip is fastened on the '15 GSA by one through bolt. Pull back the inboard Grip lip on the top/back and you will see a screw.
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/wmhnechg39rojab/Photo 2016-10-13, 3 39 42 PM.jpg?dl=0

    On the bottom/front of the bar, do the same, and you will see for the OEM, a nut...

    The right grip is held with only one screw, but this is through bolted from the top, and out the bottom. It screws into a threaded hole on the grip housing itself. Here you see the bottom of that filister screw. That small electrical connection also has to be undone to slide the grip off...
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/cza27mws3ief5f0/File 2016-10-13, 5 21 17 PM.jpeg?dl=0


    Then, you will see some little tiny filister screws to undo- these hold the housing on to itself.
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/1s3e8u1t2yhw8ib/Photo 2016-10-13, 3 40 56 PM.jpg?dl=0


    To remove, you have to pry off a little cover where the wires go into the housing. Using a tiny slot screwdriver, you are able to detach the wiring connectors for the heated grips, lights, and TS on the left, and the other wiring connections on the right. Do not forget which came out of what spot so you can put it back on properly. I suggest taking the time to take pictures or video with your phone before you detach.

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/odgf9ghuqs4t9v3/File 2016-10-13, 5 06 21 PM.jpg?dl=0

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/4vt2z3kssifywo0/File 2016-10-13, 5 06 46 PM.jpg?dl=0


    The left grip, heated coil, and switch/wiring housing slips onto the left handlebar super easy.

    Once that is sorted... remove the through screw(s) or screw and nut on the Left side, and slide the entire grip assembly off the bar.

    Likewise with the right, but there is some tricky stuff there with the throttle that you will need to address... yea... it was that you could not slide the throttle grip off since the throttle cable is limiting the slide right... so you had to loosen your bars and slide the bar left to get the right grip off. There was something else tricky... it had to do with that silver filister screw there by the yellow wire, it had bent at the factory... this picture shows too the three electrical connections of the RS grip...
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/plxpewbxjmcewrh/File 2016-10-13, 5 28 24 PM.jpg?dl=0

    Another thing I remembered is that I did not want to mess with the throttle cable so I taped the whole assembly together before I slid it off the bar so it would keep together and the tension in the throttle assembly would not be messed with... it was a tedious "I could really f this up... moment..."


    So, then, the grips are off, and you can remove the OEM bar.

    Then the next issue is how in the world to drill the holes in the right spot!!!???

    So.... just so you know... this whole project took many evenings over last Christmas since I did not want to rush and screw it up... which I did anyways... but I will get to that...

    So, my bar on the left had the through bolt, to nut under the grip. I do not have a drill press... so I had to hand drill. Since I did not think I could drill straight through and hit the nut, or drill from the other side a second hole and be straight to the other hole... this is what I did: I taped and clamped my Left grip on the bar at the angle I wanted, took a sharp steel picker and scratched on the new bars through the openings on the grip holes for the through bolt. I drilled from each side where I marked. I then tapped with a fine thread the holes and screwed in a screw on each side... so I essentially tossed "through bolt and nut" concept out for the left grip and drilled and tapped two holes.

    The RS is a bit different- you still also need to drill, I cannot recall if I tapped both sides or if I did something custom on the housing. I know I buggered the bottom plastic half of the housing and had to reorder a plastic housing... so yea... some learning there due to these bloody drill holes...

    What you will want to do is order some small "filister" screws since you can lose them, and in my case, one was bent on install from the factory.

    How did I screw up? I got greedy tapping... and rather than backing out the tap every quarter of a turn to remove material... I just kept turning, and twisted and sheared the tap off inside the hole!!!! I could not remove the tap... I had to send the bars back to flexx and they replaced my left grip bar, great customer service there at Fasst!!!! But that set me back a few weeks, but that was when I had my second surgery on the arm so I did not care.

    The cycraprobend handguards were another tedious lesson... on fasstco's website they suggest a BRP bracket but this did not fit the sweep, size of the bars I had, the Super Tenures, so fasstco set me up with another piece in their catalog, the simple looking but effective Kudla Connection.

    http://fasstco.myshopify.com/collections/motorcycle/products/flexx-handlebar-kudla-connection


    Long story short: changing handlebars is tedious, time-consuming, detailed, and risky if you do not have the proper tools, abilities, and time to do it slowly, since you cannot rush it. Too many tiny details to remember, hence taking videos along the entire way before disassembling to ensure that you get it right putting it back together. It was only by having the videos on my phone that I was able to upload to dropbox and show them here on short notice.

    (the good thing having done it is that I know understand how all that stuff is put together...)
    #5
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  6. The Maz

    The Maz Clueless and lost

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2013
    Oddometer:
    571
    Location:
    Medicine Hat , AB
    It is a great write up...
    Thanks....:clap
    #6
    ADVwxyz likes this.
  7. Loutre

    Loutre Cosmopolitan Adv Super Moderator

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2010
    Oddometer:
    14,378
    Location:
    :o)
    got confirmation that those ebay bars aren't from the 8GS. They have the hole in the wrong place
    #7
    ADVwxyz likes this.
  8. oz mal

    oz mal Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2009
    Oddometer:
    36
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    Very comprehensive mate. Thanks.
    #8
  9. dpike

    dpike BeeKeeper Supporter

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2015
    Oddometer:
    2,011
    Location:
    New Jersey
    i'm having trouble finding a comfortable riding position and i think it's primarily due to the sweep, it just doesn't feel natural to me at all.

    how do you like the flexxbars with the 15° sweep ?
    #9
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  10. 2wxplorr

    2wxplorr Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 13, 2016
    Oddometer:
    205
    Location:
    Sonoma, CA
    GoPlaces...great write up! You're making me second guess my desire to put on ProTaper bars but that sweep is too much.

    dpike, I'm looking at the Pro Taper Adventure Mids (not highs), they give a bit more height as well.

    Wallrat...I spoke with Pro Taper this morning and they said there is no issue with drilling holes, they actually supply bars for Harley pre-drilled.
    #10
  11. wolffo

    wolffo mas gasolina!

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2014
    Oddometer:
    59
    Location:
    Lakewood, Colorado
    stock bars on the F800GS are 2" wider than MX Fat bars
    for me its the reach to the bars and the height, they are too low

    I'm in the middle of adding "ATV High" bars and Cycra Pro Bends (but they don't want to fit easily with the levers)

    also, not obvious how to remove the stock grips, I'm going with Pro Grip 714's, fattys

    This is shaping up to be a few evening project at least
    #11
  12. 2wxplorr

    2wxplorr Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 13, 2016
    Oddometer:
    205
    Location:
    Sonoma, CA
    Yeah the cycra's are tricky to get on. I ended up going to the hardware store and buying an extra spacer to use on the clutch side, still was a tight fit but it worked well.
    #12
  13. wolffo

    wolffo mas gasolina!

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2014
    Oddometer:
    59
    Location:
    Lakewood, Colorado
    Cycra now make s $30 "adventure spacer"....sweet...+$110 Cycra CRM package crazy

    I'm now going to try Grip Puppies $20 slip on neoprene grips so I can maintain the original grip/heater coil contacts while increasing the diameter of the grips too

    I'll have about $270 in improving the ergos and reach to the bars...spendy and so stoopid

    Bars, levers, grips, risers, handguards & spacers
    #13
  14. wolffo

    wolffo mas gasolina!

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2014
    Oddometer:
    59
    Location:
    Lakewood, Colorado
    ...and....and...how dumb is it that I have to drill thru my bars?
    #14
  15. doucra

    doucra n00b

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2018
    Oddometer:
    3
    Location:
    Australia
    Has anyone removed the electronic throttle switch from a 2017 GS? I can't find any screws or any information in service manuals???

    They all show the cabled throttle.
    #15