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F800GS - RXV Shiver'ed Fork Conversion

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by Gangplank, Jul 25, 2010.

  1. Nick V

    Nick V Who dares, wins.

    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2012
    Oddometer:
    133
    Location:
    Johannesburg, South Africa
    I know. :) The way I did it was a quick bodge that meant I didn't have to have a loose steering lock banging around.

    Basically, I switched on the bike's ignition with the '05 key and lock (still attached to the upper triple clamp), and made sure the transponder key side of things was cool by taping the '07 key to the '07's transponder aerial.

    As far as the bike was concerned, it was being started with the '07's key only. ;)
  2. NCD

    NCD Dirty Hairy Supporter

    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2008
    Oddometer:
    827
    Location:
    NE Ohio
    [​IMG]

    First oil change post-transplant after 18000 miles of all sorts of terrain. Everything looks good inside, and is still one of the best upgrades done to the bike!
  3. Anti

    Anti Νέος

    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2010
    Oddometer:
    36
    Location:
    Cyclades, Greece
    What default settings do you use...? I mean, how many clicks from fully closed for compression & rebound?

    In general, I‘ve noticed that the forks are behaving better with extra weight, than with just only me on the bike......
  4. NCD

    NCD Dirty Hairy Supporter

    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2008
    Oddometer:
    827
    Location:
    NE Ohio
    I don't think my settings matter because I have custom shim stacks set up for my springs, weight, etc....sorry!
    Anti likes this.
  5. Bli55

    Bli55 -

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Oddometer:
    625
    Location:
    Russia, N56 E49.
    Hi all!
    I've got left over a set of stock 45mm X-Challenge forks in very good condition and pretty low miles.
    At all useful for F800GS owners? What is a good price for a fork set?

    [​IMG]

    Top clamping diameter = 54mm
    Bottom = 57mm
  6. sarathmenon

    sarathmenon Armchair Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2012
    Oddometer:
    1,540
    Location:
    SFO Bay Area
    IIRC, those X challenge forks are a straight bolt on to the pre-2013 F800GS. Again, from my memory and buried somewhere in this thread - the internals bolt on without machining needed. I don't know how much you'll get for it - maybe post up in the flea market?
  7. baddrapp

    baddrapp Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2013
    Oddometer:
    173
    Does anyone know the demensions of the top cap?
  8. Antti__84

    Antti__84 n00b

    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2017
    Oddometer:
    7
  9. cbleroy

    cbleroy Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2017
    Oddometer:
    22
    Location:
    Germany
    I'm too on the way to go for this modification on a 2011 trophy...

    This post is not so active anymore.
    Would guys having done this modification still recommend it ?
  10. Reaver

    Reaver How Did I Get Here?

    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2008
    Oddometer:
    19,286
    Location:
    Zona Sur Costa Rica
    HELL YEAH!

    Kicks ass here in the Third World.
  11. cbleroy

    cbleroy Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2017
    Oddometer:
    22
    Location:
    Germany
    Have you done you're modification so far ?
    I am currently progressing from my side (one side done so far...) waiting for a new bottom cap to finish the second.

    Donor fork is a Husky WR250 similar to your first ebay link.

    Here are the parameters I'm starting with :
    - Spring Ohlins 0,6 Ref 08767-60 given for the F800GS ; 480mm long so I reduced it by 2 coils , new k about 0,64
    - Machined damper Rod, L=34mm with holes on the side to let oil passing through
    - 9mm spring compression
    - Oil Motorex 7.5W with 100mm air gap
    - Added 2 shims Diam 23mm e=0,1mm at the base of the compression stack and added 1 shim (Diam 23mm, e=0,1) at the base of the rebound stack
    - I plan to move the fork about 5mm upper in the fork

    With this setup I expect to keep the initial geometry and travel of the F800
  12. MannyM

    MannyM Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2016
    Oddometer:
    22
    HELP!

    This could be an example of a great thread gone by the way of arguing over oil types... Top post on this page is referring to bike keys... Let's get back to the Shiver conversion ?


    ... what am I missing... I am preparing to do this Shiver conversion and I am at a bit of a loss... And I worked in a machine shop every day for 17 years...
    Any info anyone can give me with would be great... Where is the drawing / what are the dimensions required in the bottom of the stock BMW fork foot to accept the Shiver valve?

    I've just found a set of Shiver's and purchased them on ebay.

    I see multiple multiple posts about machining the feet on the BMW OEM forks. To accompany the posts I see photos that show a stepped bore of the feet along side a threaded valve from a Shiver fork... and there are NO threads cut into che machined stock feet??

    upload_2018-1-18_21-49-43.png
    WHAT IS THIS SHOWING??

    If someone says "self taping" I am going to recommend they never ever ride a motorcycle again. :)


    Help please?
    Mike
  13. Reaver

    Reaver How Did I Get Here?

    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2008
    Oddometer:
    19,286
    Location:
    Zona Sur Costa Rica
    Well then, I'll tell you about the non self tappers.

    Photobucket Phukt my thread but here's a pic. The adjuster threads into the damper tube.

    Bottom left of my pic is the red adjuster and the tube that it will thread into. Guess I'll have to Phix this thread too.


    PC150134_zps98f012d9.JPG
  14. Bayner

    Bayner Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2008
    Oddometer:
    2,403
    Location:
    Penticton, BC, Canada
    The compression valve assembly threads into the bottom of the damper rod assembly once that part is inside the fork leg. The 2 screw together and that's what holds the guts into the lower leg. The clearance is already in place for the damper assembly inside the lug. The outside of the lower fork lug needs to be bored to allow the valveing assembly to slide into it, with just enough clearance to be sealed by that o-ring. It will make more sense once you have the donor forks torn down. You can take your measurements from them at that time.
  15. MannyM

    MannyM Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2016
    Oddometer:
    22
    Thanks very much gents- Much appreciated... Yes- the removed photos from the thread make it brutal to follow.

    Although my mechanical and machinist mind struggles a bit with this. That o-ring and rounded (brass) shoulder on the valve are all that generate the hydraulic seal?

    Thanks again. This thread is really really rough to follow with so much talk of spacers and dimensions that walks off in to bickering over sag and settings...

    What do I need to do to make my donor guts play nicely with my OEM tubes? The tuning and settings are mine and I'll play with them after the parts are in place.

    Thanks for responding!!!

    Mike
  16. Bayner

    Bayner Long timer

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    Mar 27, 2008
    Oddometer:
    2,403
    Location:
    Penticton, BC, Canada
    Mostly I think it's sealed by the inner assembly seating against the bottom fork lug. See the smaller ID section of the lower fork leg in your posted photo? That winds up sandwiched between the valve body and the damper assembly. The o-ring locates there and does its thing...
    Really, don't sweat it. Tear the donors down and it becomes obvious.
    MannyM likes this.
  17. MannyM

    MannyM Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2016
    Oddometer:
    22
    Thanks Bayner - I may try to post my progress as I go along to try and help other inmates out.
  18. MannyM

    MannyM Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2016
    Oddometer:
    22

    .... ahhh I see the trees in the forest now (the threaded valve threads up into a female thats not shown!...) ... usually on the internet... when showing a picture of male and female parts side by side... it is customary to show exactly how nicely those parts fit together.... see what I did there???

    Just a quick note before I start my conversion thanking Bayner, Reaver, and the PM from Gangplank, this is what threads are all about. Even when they get long and messy, and the thread topic has spun toward arguing over which type of engine oil "feels best" and why running a radial on the front and a bias ply on the a back only works if the valve stems are torque'd to the spec that someone heard from their dealer...


    On an 7 or 8 year old thread, I've heard from 3 folks willing to help me many years after this thread has gone quiet- thanks very much.
  19. cbleroy

    cbleroy Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2017
    Oddometer:
    22
    Location:
    Germany
    Hi, I just did the conversion, mounted on the bike but not yet tested on the field.

    Here is the drawing I gave to the shop for machining. I asked them to take the inner edge for reference.

    Blue is before the machining, black is after.

    BR


    Usinage pied de fourche.jpg
    Bayner likes this.
  20. cbleroy

    cbleroy Adventurer

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    Oct 2, 2017
    Oddometer:
    22
    Location:
    Germany
    and the result is below:
    pied de fourche.JPG