Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by Wildman, Jan 30, 2009.
anyone know if the tank will fit with the Scotts dampner?
Well, I had grand aspirations to do the thing myself, or at least part of it myself, but after months of looking at the bag of parts and pieces and going over the instructions a thousand times, I decided to have my local beemer shop do the work. Their mechanic is great, and I figured if anything went wrong (i.e. drilling the tank) they would have to fix it, replace it, or warranty it to some degree.
There were some hiccups along the way, but I was able to pick it up just the other day (it was 9 degrees so riding time was a little limited).
Here's a few shots with the jesse bags on.
A shot from the front.
And one from the back of the saddle.
And the last from the front/side.
Cobblecrazy, your paint turned out awesome, looks killer!
So far I've got 6000km with mine during this trip and am absolutely frickin thrilled with it! Worth every penny.
I was wondering if maybe the new Giant Loop Buckin' Roll might work?
It'll need longer straps of course (pretty easy to pick up at any outdoor store) but it is designed to work with that kind of shape.
Here is the thread:
If anyone with one of these tank is close to Giant Loop HQ in Bend, OR you could try one out. Otherwise I'll be on the lookout for one of these tanks riding around and try it.
Maybe I can catch up to you GNP77 ...not likely but worth a try
(BTW: I put one of my cards in Tim's tank bag one day when I was at Blackfoot)
Hope you two are having a great journey!! Good luck!!
Thanks, yours looks great as well. It was quite a difference the first time I got on it for a ride, but it was a quick adjustment, and I have absolutely no regrets
the tank fits also with the scott steering stabilizer.
I found a bag that works well. It's a bit small but the Oxford Mini Sprint Bag http://www.i-ad.co.za/pSpecial_OL780/Oxford-Mini-Sprint-Tank-bag-2-litres.aspx can be made to work well with some minor changes. I'll try to snap some pics in the next couple days.
It is small but has 2 compartments perfect for phone, Ipod, tire gauge, visor rag, Leatherman, camera etc.
Dave, at the rate we're going, you should have no issues catching up!
I've noticed a few times after filling the aux tank that I get fuel leaking from my left airbox intake tube. The only thing I could think was the the threaded barb fitting for the overflow on the tank was l leaking around the threads, dripping on the intake tube and running down from there.
I haven't had the opportunity to check it out until tonight. What seems to have happened is that the barbed fitting and drain hose contact the intake tube. The pressure caused the hose to split and tear. When the tank is right full and fuel needs to drain, it leaks out of the tear in the tube and onto the air box rather than out the tube and on to the ground.
Where the fitting and hose are rubbing on the airbox:
I'm on the road and have access to limited tools so I tried to heat up screw driver and attempted to clearance the airbox (just dent it basically) but with no success. A blow torch or heat gun may work.
I ended up filing through the fitting and shortening it by about 1/4".
Since there's now only 1 barb instead of 3, I added a hose clamp to secure the drain line.
I'm hoping that shortening the barb 1/4" will put less (or no) pressure on the hose and it won't wear through.
If you get the angle right with a bright flash light, you can (just barely) see the fitting with the tank on. You may want to have a look at your's and see if it's contacting. 17,000km since my install and it just recently wore through.
Good tip Oso, thanks for posting. I had my tank off several times and the first time I noticed the same contact clearance issue. After studying the situation I decided to try removing the fitting and bending it slightly with heat. After that proved an utter failure I shortened the fitting like you did. I observed while it was close to rubbing the air box, it now had a little clearance. I didn't apply a clamp.
Since this I have removed to tank several times for wiring and maintenance. The fix is holding and no split hose. Each time I have found the hose still connected.
It has been 18000 miles since I shortened the fitting. I figured my problem was an isolated issue. I think your fix will be the solution. Now that you have posted this others with the TT tank will now be aware of this issue.
I was a bit surprised to find it contacting. It seems like something they would have, could have caught during R&D. If the boss was cast at a slight angle away from the airbox, even a few degrees, it would clear.
On a side note, I was also surprised at how quick it was to get the tank off and on. I haven't had it off since the original install. I forgot it's only 6 bolts (all the same size hex bit), the 2 quick release fitting and the vent line. I was dreading it a bit but it was less than 5 min to get if off and same back on
glad to hear that!
I agree it is easy to take off and somewhat more difficult to install. The two rear mount bolts always gave me trouble when trying to align the nut between the bracket and air box. I did a little "engineering" and brazed the nuts to the brackets so the tight space issue was solved. Now it works very easy once the tank is aligned correctly. The goal was to be able to remove and replace the tank easily in the field without carrying any unusual tools. With the drain fitting and the rear support brackets modified it is easily serviced, in my opinion as easy as the stock setup.
Bracket, nut, airbox...hmmm mines not setup like that! There are threaded spacers (basically nuts) welded on to the brackets. We are talking about the ones that strap around the frame right?
The front crossmember uses nuts and bolts but as the back side it totally open, it couldn't be easier to nuts threaded. But yeah, the rear 2 mounts are fixed nuts on the brackets. The casting number on the tank was 00014 so it's one of the first tanks made but maybe I got version 2.0 brackets?
The most screwing around comes from the 2 beak bolts. Kinda of a bad spot to get them started straight. When I get home I think I'll ditch them in for some studs and nuts.
I guess I got a bit mixed up, you are right. What I modified was the washer between the tank and the bracket spacer. I brazed the inner washer to the tank rubber steel spacer. Now the washer is always lined up when I insert the rear bolts to the bracket. The washer used to fall away as I aligned the tank.
I like the stud with nut idea for the beak attachment. I will explore that mod, thanks.
I agree the washers can be a hassle. Brazing them on seems like great idea, I'll have to use that one.
The beak bolts always seem like they are going in cross threaded. I haven't had it happen yet though. I thought short studs that are loctited in would work well as the studs pop through the beak holes and keep everything aligned and in place while you get the nuts started.
It's pretty tight in that area but hopefully there's enough space to get a socket for the nut. If you try it, post up some pics.
alright you expert tank installers.... what all do I need to do before I install it? tank comes back from the painter today...
What do I need to do as in other than whats in the instructions?
If so, I'd say the drain fitting shortening for sure. gr8ridn's suggestion of brazing the washers to the spacers seems like a winner.
aight sounds good... been kinda browsing what ya'll have said and am going to do the same just didn't know if there's other little tid bits of