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F800GS Valve Adjusting step by step.

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by Camel ADV, Sep 26, 2010.

  1. dpike

    dpike BeeKeeper Supporter

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    yeah, i did a few dry fits last night and had to clip a couple additional ties to get a little more slack in the main harness and pull out the clutch cable. i was real good initially about marking what i clipped with red electrical tape so i don't forget it but my second go around i was a little less careful and just took the cut and pull approach.
    Canada Mike and Nickhob like this.
  2. erburtt

    erburtt Adventurer

    Joined:
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    Belleville, Ontario
    As a data point, I recently checked my valves; Exhaust clearances were 0.29, 0.28, 0.30, 0.29 and intake clearances were 0.23, 0.23, 0.21, 0.20.

    So everything within the spec, but on the tighter end of the scale. With swapping various shims around I was able to get all but 2 to my desired clearance (0.23 Intake, 0.33 Exhaust). When I called my dealer to order the 2 I needed the parts guy didnt even know what a valve shim was, I get the feeling not many people attempt this on their own. A quick chat with the moto service tech got me an order together. $15 CAD per shim... so I'm glad I was able to swap the others around, also picked up a couple skid plate damper bolts as I have some broken ones, the service tech had one in his toolbox he gifted me, which was lucky as the other was $17 CAD. I reused the valve cover gasket, mine was not leaking and had no signs of hardening, I reassembled with Permatex ultra black on the riders left side. Bike started right up and sounded normal after oil pressure reached the cam chain tensioner

    A couple points for things that made it easier for me or that I learned:
    - Take pictures during disassembly to have a record of cable routing and things like that
    - You'll try to resist the cable tie snipping at first, give in and snip anything that looks or feels like its in the way, that valve cover is a tight fit
    - Clean your bike as best you can before, and clean as you disassemble
    - A headlamp helps with seeing things, I have held a flashlight in my teeth far too many times. A pen flashlight is also handy for looking in tight spots.
    - A rare earth magnet on a stick (mine came out of an old toy kit) will help reach dropped bolts in small places, I had one scare when the cam top plate bolt fell under the cam and I was sure it went down into the crankcase
    - Dissconnect both the throttle and clutch cable and pull out to the handlebar
    - Practice that valve cover replacement a few times for the real deal when you don't want to smear the RTV
    - Put the bike in 5th and use your foot to lever the rear tire around as you cycle to TDC, remove the plugs and the bolt for the crank lock down near the oil cooler to reduce compression and keep it easy to spin
    - Triple check your timing marks and rotate through multiple times to make sure you've got it right
    - A small dab of oil or grease will help those tubes from the airbox reconnect, the ones by the seat were the hardest for me
    - I made my own crank locking bolt, I could see a spot for it to go when I looked in the hole and spun the tire, but I'm not sure how well it actually functions. I was pretty careful not to move anything once I removed the cams and zip tied the chain to the frame.

    Next time I'll probably gather more of the right materials beforehand, I had a bit of running around to do when I realized I was missing a tool or something else, I would also make a point to put some dielectric grease or some other anti corroding/waterproofing product on all electrical connections during reassembly. Now all that's left is to decide which colour I want to plastidip the panels for this coming season (was all matte and satin black last year), I'm thinking BMW racing colours, kind of like a ralley edition R1200
    JRWooden, Effisland and ontrip like this.
  3. JRWooden

    JRWooden Homeless motorcycle vagabond ... and ... loving it

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    Thanks ER!

    Good tips all!

    I plug the oil drain holes with some lint-free rags before I take anything apart as I'm scared to death of dropping something and hearing it rattle it's way down toward the crankcase.........
  4. Zoef zoef

    Zoef zoef Long timer

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    Hi, very good thread and many thanks to the @Camel ADV !
    I`m right in the middle of doing this myself. Now I`m running into an issue when reinstalling the cam plate. A gap of about 5 mm remains and can`t get it any further. Feels like something is jamming, but cannot understand what.
    Anybody got any ideas?
  5. Reaver

    Reaver How Did I Get Here?

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    One of your Cams is trying to open a valve or two. Or the close tolerance fit is a bit out of alignment. Or both.
  6. Zoef zoef

    Zoef zoef Long timer

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    Thank you. The camshafts are aligned with marks towards each other and on edge of head.
    Could you clarify on your second statement, as I`m not quite sure what you mean.
  7. Bill the Bong

    Bill the Bong Supern00ba

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    Just finished mine. 1st adjust ever was at 87000km :D. Al 4 intakes and 1 exhaust were loose. Slightly unexpected. Job went OK. Think maybe 6 hours actual work, but it did take 2 weeks to complete while waiting for the shims to arrive. Living in the sticks...
    bobw, ontrip and Effisland like this.
  8. Effisland

    Effisland Long timer

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    Good to know, I'm at 50k kms and put off doing it over the holidays. Maybe in a couple weeks. The last time I checked clearances at 20k kms I was in a Vancouver back alley and when I went upstairs to take a leak some f%$# made off with my toolkit....

    Did you have any inkling of an issue or performance before the adjustment, and did you notice any improvements afterwards?
  9. Bill the Bong

    Bill the Bong Supern00ba

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    Nope, it was just becoming noticeably more noisy at idle. Sounded like an injector at first, but cleaning that had no effect. I have a manual timing chain adjuster, so that was ruled out.

    Based on my scenario, I think I should have checked at 60 000km. What was impressive is that BMW has some 1/2 step shims in the head that is not shown on the fiche. I think that makes for a head that remains in spec for a long time, as they could do an accurate set-up in the factory.
    Effisland likes this.
  10. JRWooden

    JRWooden Homeless motorcycle vagabond ... and ... loving it

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    The "fiche" shims @ 0.05mm move the clearance a large amount which kind of annoyed me.
    having 1/2 step shims would be nice ... I wonder why they don't have them in the parts catalog?
    With only 0.05mm increments available in the fiche... and using the BMW spec.
    you have to be on the tight end or you'll end up outside the zone by going down one size...

    The same engine when used in the Husky has looser specs.
    I think only because they care less about noise and more about not burning up valves...
    Since these engines mostly seem to use up clearance over time.....

    At one point BMW sent out a tech. note allowing use of the larger clearances but then cancelled it...........



    upload_2019-2-11_12-58-17.png
  11. Private Rossen

    Private Rossen n00b

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    :strum

    Hi Cory! If I got your name correctly... Very educating, I felt that no questions are needed after such thorough write up, however I got some.
    Tried to buy the BMW service manual, but it won't open on my MacBook(bought it from a site that I found in the net, called 'Sentry' I believe).
    Do you have any idea where I could buy a credible copy of the service manual???
    Also, I thought that I'll taper a M8 bolt like you did to lock the crankshaft, but as far as for the shims, gasket, sealing glue ..., M8 bolt as well - did you buy it from BMW???
    Again - (after so many people thanked you) thanks for this post some years later. Looks like Ill be doing the job since in Burbank they charge close to 1000.00 bucks and in Winnetka they only listen how the motor sounds and get money as if it has been inspected/measured. My motor cuts off regularly now after the last 'valve adjustment service'.:strum
    May be it's not so. May be I'm wrong. Idk.
    Hope you're doing well and this message finds you in good moods!:rilla
  12. JRWooden

    JRWooden Homeless motorcycle vagabond ... and ... loving it

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    I can't remember the exact price,
    but the offical BMW 'bolt' for locking the flywheel is very inexpensive for a BMW tool.....................:drink
    Effisland likes this.
  13. Lethal-E

    Lethal-E Adventurer

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    This is a super helpful post. I recently picked up a 2014 F800GSA and it has 16k miles and I just pulled it apart and checked the clearances. I have a couple of questions.

    1. The Haynes manual gives similar clearances to what was recommended in on the original post (intake: .18-.26; exhaust: .27-.35) but there is a printed notice on the airbox of my bike that gives different numbers (intake: .23-.33; exhaust: .30-.41). Which specs should I follow?
    2. My intake clearances are .203, .203, .203, .203 and my exhaust clearances are .203, .229, .229, .229. If I follow Haynes then the intake valves are fine but the exhaust valves will need adjusted. If I follow specs on my airbox then all of them need adjusted. I was thinking with the bike running so great and with such low miles this would be a quick valve check, change the plugs and be done. I'm a bit intimidated to take the next step and do the valve adjustment. Is this something that I need to do NOW or can the bike wait another 12k til the next service?
  14. Private Rossen

    Private Rossen n00b

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    Hey, I’d wait another 12k miles if your bike is running fine. This will give you time to find out about the specs printed on your air box . Stop by a dealership and ask; me myself am in the middle of adjusting (hopefully tomorrow will b able to finish) however my bike isn’t running well AND using the Haynes manual values for valve clearances I’m within spec!!! Only 2 valves are at the tight end, but still in the good range. Your post makes me go ahead and look for printed specs on my air box too, since as I said my bike isn’t running smoothly. I ride 2011 f800 gs and have 53000+ miles.
  15. bmwroadsterca

    bmwroadsterca RadioFlyer

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    As noted in various places here the specs were revised by BMW at one point and then revised again to go back to the original tighter specs. The Haynes manual specs are correct.
    ontrip likes this.
  16. Lethal-E

    Lethal-E Adventurer

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    That's very helpful. Thanks for clarifying!
  17. Lethal-E

    Lethal-E Adventurer

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    I decided to go ahead and finish the job since I had already gotten so far. Hopefully will go back together again. :lol3
    ontrip likes this.
  18. Flopix

    Flopix Been here awhile

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    I need help or advice here, please :)

    Sooooo, for the few last rides I noticed vibrations over 4000 rpm that weren't there before, like very obnoxious vibrations in the pegs and handle bar. The F8 isn't the smoothest of bikes, but it's not that bad and it wasn't like that before.

    I knew the valves were overdue for a check, and I read somewhere that vibrations could be a symptom of valves being too tight.

    So I checked them...

    Exhaust .32, .32, .30, .30
    Intake .28, .29, .28, .28

    Be aware there's some play here as I don't have a feeler gauge with all the thickness values so there's a bit of guessing (like I have .28 and .30 so if .28 goes in easy but .30 doesn't, I guess .29).

    Now... Ok, the intake valves are all out of spec... Exhaust valves look fine to me.

    I'm surprised with my measurements because comparing with the ones I took 2 years ago, they have a bit more play. I thought they were supposed to tighten over time???? I'm confused.

    Also would any of this explain my vibrations? I was expecting something very different. :hmmmmm

    Any advice is appreciated! :D

    (Forgot to mention that my bike has 48000 km, and the last check was @ 27000 km)
  19. bmwroadsterca

    bmwroadsterca RadioFlyer

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    See the specs in post #290. You may want to revisit your conclusions.

    How the gap changes over time is a function of what wears faster - the valve face and valve seat or the cam/lifter mechanism. Wear on one is offset by wear on the other. Typically the valve face and seat are the more rapid resulting in a closing gap though.

    I would not be quick to blame vibration on valve clearances.
  20. Flopix

    Flopix Been here awhile

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    Thanks!

    Isshh, I didn't look at that post originally... I thought they were different engines and didn't bother reading it... Well... I guess I'll have to look elsewhere for my vibration issue then, although I have no clue what could be the cause. It's actually bad to the point where I don't enjoy riding the bike anymore. :(

    Looking at the specs from Husky, should I even bother with the valve adjustment?? The intake valves are a bit outside BMW's specs, but within Husky's.