Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by Camel ADV, Sep 26, 2010.
I would leave it be. Others may have different views.
Thanks again. I agree. Not worth messing around in there. I'll just close it up, replace the spark plugs and try to figure out what's wrong with this thing. My next suspect is the exhaust that I replaced 2 years ago with a Yoshimura, maybe something is rattling in there. I noticed it makes some "new" not so good noises, although I doubt it would make the whole bike vibrate... Still, I'll put back the stock exhaust. Otherwise, I don't know. I had a look on the forum for vibration issues and didn't find much.
Check all the motor mounts.
QUOTE="Flopix, post: 37635962, member: 373095"]Thanks again. I agree. Not worth messing around in there. I'll just close it up, replace the spark plugs and try to figure out what's wrong with this thing. My next suspect is the exhaust that I replaced 2 years ago with a Yoshimura, maybe something is rattling in there. I noticed it makes some "new" not so good noises, although I doubt it would make the whole bike vibrate... Still, I'll put back the stock exhaust. Otherwise, I don't know. I had a look on the forum for vibration issues and didn't find much. [/QUOTE]
Thanks Riley. I did check them visually when this issue started, very quickly though, everything looked fine, but I'll have a second look!
Ok so... This has nothing to do with valves directly, but indirectly yes. Am I the only one having troubles with the throttle cable routing? And also, am I the only one ending up with a crappy running engine every time I lift the air box?? This is very frustrating...
So the "long" story is, last year I had issues with my throttle all summer. It felt weird and not like before. That was after going in to check the valve train. So last weekend I decided to remove the air box to check it. I noted the throttle cable was not correctly routed, and it was stuck under the front of the air box. So I routed it to the side with the clutch cable, with the supplied rubber strap. I put everything back together and started the bike. It runs like sh*t, like on a cylinder and a half, and the throttle is even worse than before, it's "sticky" with rev's going up and down when turning the handle bar, when close to full lock. There's also a weird smell and some smoke coming out of the front. So, I stopped everything. Went back in, everything looked "normal" and is where it's supposed to be. The throttle cable still doesn't look right though.
So, what am I doing wrong? What can explain my engine running like that? What is the correct way to route the throttle cable? Heeeeelppp!!!
EDIT: here'a pic of how my throttle cable is routed:
Not sure what to say to assist but for what it's worth here is a reference photo that I took when I removed the airbox on my wife's F650GS. I didn't have any issues upon reassembly. Can't see how yours differs.
Top photo cable goes through a cable tie, bottom photo cable does not go through cable tie. don't know which one is right but there is a difference
Well, your cable isn't routed with the clutch cable through the cable tie. And looking at the BMW service manual, it shouldn't. Yours is right, it's wrong on my bike. The weird thing is, it was routed correctly before, and something was still wrong with how the throttle felt. It was a bit sticky and revs would go up when the handle bar was in full lock to the left. I had to adjust the play, but then it felt like I had to twist the throttle a bit more to get some power, made the bike feels sluggish. I'll have to double and triple check everything again, and it still doesn't explain how rough my idle was. It felt like a coil pack was not in fully or something but I can't see anything wrong there.
Ok ... I've been drinking .... CV-resistance ya know...
I am a dumbass taking my advice could result in stupid shit happening.
but if you are diving back in there, here are some really random thoughts:
Is there at least a hair of freeplay in the throttle cable at left & right handlebar clock - adjust on cable near grip
Clean throttle bodies with TB cleaner
on mine (2009) IIRC there are three stupid hoses that connect to the bottom of the air box
makre sure the nipples on your box intact and are all three hoses connected.
Clean the idle air control solenoid see:
make sure the rubber boots between air box and TB are not folded back
check the air filter make sure it's not fuckered ... some do not have proper wire mesh reinforcement
While apart .. .see if throttle cam "snaps" back cleanly to idle with cable DISconnected
If so... see if throttle cam "snaps" back cleanly to idle with cable CONnected
I left the bike in the garage with the air box removed. So thanks for the list, I'll go through it... As for the drinking part, I'm applying the same CV-resistance technique...
Going off memory here and it's been awhile, but do you see how there are two cams for the throttle cable to attach to at the throttle bodies? I think you may be on the wrong one, the one that is used for the power restricted versions to limit throttle response and opening. I think you're supposed to be on the smaller cam just to the left on the one you're connected to. Using the wrong one without the right mounting bracket will also screw up the angle the cable comes in at where it's exposed and make for a heavy throttle feel that doesn't return smoothly.
You are absolutely right!!! Here's the diagram from the service manual:
The cable is on the wrong cam! I never noticed there were 2 of them!!
Thanks so much!!
Happy to help. Like I said, it's been a few years since I did mine and since I sold the bike a few months back I couldn't go check it in the garage, but I still had a hunch that was it.
Yes, thanks again, really. Turns out I ran the bike like this last year, for the entire season!
Very well spotted. Stuff like that can be hard to figure out!
I can't even imagine how annoying that would have been. You're going think you're on a completely new bike now. If you have a GS911 or Motoscan, make sure to reset all the adaptations so you're starting fresh.
Unfortunately I don't have access to any of these. I guess the ECU will re-adapt itself after some time...?
Beyond my realm of expertise. It believe it will get there, I just don't know what impact riding it like that would have had and how long it will take to normalize. Maybe time to consider picking one up? If you're doing your own work, it will make trouble shooting so much easier. For example, you'd have found right away that you weren't reaching full throttle and been able to track the issue sooner.
that's really interesting ... the early models only have one cam ... (at least my 2009 USA model only has one cam)
to change the output you apparently had to swap cams....
Much more clever to just re-thread the cable but ... there is a downside...
nice work there @rcb78
Downside you say?
Honestly I don't even know since when the bike is like this. I went to the garage tonight to fix my mistake, and I don't remember installing the throttle on the correct cam, ever. It just felt like I was doing this for the first time. I've checked the valve clearance 2 years ago for the first time. I don't remember if the bike felt any different at that time. I do remember it felt different last year. So... Maybe I did re-install it correctly the first time, and I just don't remember doing it. Then, maybe not.
I wonder how many made the same mistake and never noticed it, or like me convinced themselves it's just in their heads...