F800GS Valve Adjusting step by step.

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by Camel ADV, Sep 26, 2010.

  1. Karel

    Karel Been here awhile

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    Thanks for posting the instructions. I have done mine last weekend and I think that the worst part was putting all the plastic back on the bike. I am sure that it will be easier next time around.:rofl
    I had to adjust all four intake valves(38,000mi). Bike runs like new again:clap
    #41
  2. Camel ADV

    Camel ADV Long timer Supporter

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    Glad you found it helpful:clap
    #42
  3. A-Wind

    A-Wind Andreas RD07a

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    Disclaimer: I don't owe any GS and I just found/read this out of curiosity.

    First thing that comes to my mind: Why did you remove the cams?

    Can't you just:
    1. remove the C-Clips
    2. remove the followers (to the side) or is there no room???
    3. change the shims

    It sure looks to me that indeed that (1-3) is what BMW intended with the follower/shim design.

    Further, if your clearance is within specs, then STOP !!!
    There is no need to get creative.
    #43
  4. JRWooden

    JRWooden Homeless motorcycle vagabond ... and ... loving it

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    Random $0.02 worth:
    The BMW manual says to remove the cams (if shim replacement is indicated),
    I think that due to the size of the pocket in the followers you can't side them off to the side, but I have not personally tried it.

    Oso did want to adjust clearances so pulled the cams. It is good to note shim replacement is rarely needed if the engine feed a diet of clean air, so no need to pull the cams in most cases - slide the gauges thru and buttton things back up!
    #44
  5. A-Wind

    A-Wind Andreas RD07a

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    Actually looking at these pictures that are posted/provided by the Oso Blanco, there seems to be plenty of room:

    #45
  6. Camel ADV

    Camel ADV Long timer Supporter

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    It maybe possible to do it as you described but it seems like trying to wiggle the follower on to the shaft while keeping the shim in place 4 times per cam is more hassle than removing the cams in the first place.

    As mentioned the BMW manual says take the cams out. Feel free to set the valves on someones F800 and write a how to about it using your method.

    If by "creative" you mean moving them to mid spec, it was done because I was leaving on a 30,000km trip and wanted to the best chance of completing it without having to do a re-shim along the way.
    #46
    Private Rossen likes this.
  7. JRWooden

    JRWooden Homeless motorcycle vagabond ... and ... loving it

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    In the second picture there, the "pockets" look pretty deep and the valve stem might be so deeply "engaged" that it could cause trouble ... but it could work.

    Give it a go, let us know how it works when you do yours!
    #47
  8. A-Wind

    A-Wind Andreas RD07a

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    I'm just trying to help.

    The method what I meant indeed DOES WORK on the 2010 GS1200:
    https://sanjosebmw.smugmug.com/Other/Tech-pictures/10976964_bHf66#767209614_WupU9

    I would avoid taking off the cams unless absolute necessary. It can do more damage than good even if assembled in correct order, because the cam bearing has to be to torqued properly and most people don't have accurate torque wrenches at home.

    As far as valve specs go, let's not forget: unless we are talking about racing, valve specs are understood as a value being set by the manufacturer that have to be met AT the time of service and NOT at all times. In other words, the manufacturer calls for maximum/minimum specs with respect of maximum possible specs changes until the next scheduled service AND the engine being able to run properly and without damage until the next scheduled service.
    #48
  9. xcuzzi

    xcuzzi n00b

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    here's what the numbers look like on the shim/semispheres

    Attached Files:

    #49
  10. Camel ADV

    Camel ADV Long timer Supporter

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    Cool. Work on your delivery.
    #50
  11. Steveize

    Steveize Been here awhile

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    and never kid him while he has a bike torn down like that and ask "up in 5 minutes right?" great write up, sometimes we forget that doing all that, taking pics etc. takes your time and in this day and age someone will be Downer Debby..however you Sir are to be comended for acknowleding that you not only rec'vd much help from these forums, but have something to give back., and very well done.

    Have a great trip, know you probably caused a run on tool supply places and next snowed in weekend many f800's will get torn down. Thanks..
    #51
  12. stephen.stallebrass

    stephen.stallebrass Been here awhile

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    Should this valve check/adjustment be done before or after the oil change? Or does it not matter?
    #52
  13. Camel ADV

    Camel ADV Long timer Supporter

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    Glad you've found it useful. It is a bit more work to do a write up and take pics but there have been several "how to" threads here that have saved me time and money. What goes around comes around.

    As the saying goes "There is more than one way to skin a cat" (not sure why anyone is skinning cats...). Perhaps the procedures put forward by A-Wind are sound and viable. Based on his post I'll assume he is actually a mechanic or at least well versed in the ways of the wrench. I can however do without the "Typical backyard mechanic mistake" type comments. A slight re-wording of the same info would have been received better. Perhaps I need to grow thicker skin for the internet :dunno


    I'm not sure if there's a right or wrong procedure but I always do an oil change after having the engine open in case any dirt or grit got in. The oil change after will hopefully flush it out.
    #53
  14. JRWooden

    JRWooden Homeless motorcycle vagabond ... and ... loving it

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    Thanks Oso for doing this!
    I agree with you ... I don't see any ADVANTAGE to changing the oil first, and while it probably does not matter very much either way, even a very meticulous mechanic could leave some gasket sealer debris or small dirt behind ...

    Like you, I'll be doing the check, button things back up, ride a few miles then change oil and filter.
    #54
  15. stephen.stallebrass

    stephen.stallebrass Been here awhile

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    That's about what I thought. Thanks.
    #55
  16. Camel ADV

    Camel ADV Long timer Supporter

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    Thanks for the PM A-Wind.
    #56
  17. A-Wind

    A-Wind Andreas RD07a

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    Thank you too, we have the same goal.:beer
    #57
  18. TheCowboy

    TheCowboy back in the saddle again

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    WOW, my chain (between the two cam gears) has considerable less tension than the one shown in photo on page one. Is that an issue?

    TheCowboy
    #58
  19. David13

    David13 Been here awhile

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    This looks like a really good thread. I had done my 800 valve check maybe around the time of this original thread, and did not see this thread. That was when I had an 800.
    I did not need to change shims. The valves were right on the money (or very close).
    On the new 1200s I understand it is much easier to change the shims. Without taking out the cams. That's what I heard, But as far as I know, the only way to do it on the 800 is take out the cams.
    On the 1200 up to 09 you have adjustable valves. Easy.
    As to the chain tensioner on the 800; turn it (the engine); it will loosen as it turns. If you are going to change the tensioner spring (there is a new spring out) rotate. You will find a loose spot, where it's easy to change.
    dc
    #59
  20. TheCowboy

    TheCowboy back in the saddle again

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    TDC - what marks on the two camshaft gears am I looking at? where the dash marks allign - where the left cam gear shows E and dash under it and the right cam gear shows I and the dash right under it? I have no book to tell me so I am shooting in the dark here. I am assuming this is TDC but I need to know for sure...

    WOW the gasket is EXPENSIVE!! $86.00.... I was expecting $18.00 like the alternator cover gasket :)

    TheCowboy
    #60