F800GS Valve Adjusting step by step.

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by Camel ADV, Sep 26, 2010.

  1. Ratchdaddy

    Ratchdaddy Been here awhile Supporter

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    ARGGGHHHHHHH!!!!!!! I was already thinking about going back to the old specs because the valve ticking is making me crazy.
  2. Ratchdaddy

    Ratchdaddy Been here awhile Supporter

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    Any chance that you could scan that and send it to me or post it on here?
  3. JRWooden

    JRWooden Homeless motorcycle vagabond ... and ... loving it

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    Staring at all the numbers ... I think going forward I'll try to get the values in the top end or a little past the top end of the "original" range.

    I will certainly post if I can get a thumbs up from a moderator that I'm not going to get ADVRider forum in trouble. The document is NOT marked "BMW confidential" and the mechanic gave me a copy of it without hesitation, but it is marked with "copyright BMW..." I think this would fall into the "fair use" category but I'm no expert....

    So will post with approval?
  4. zaner32

    zaner32 In over my head

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    I just did the valve check using the procedure here and in the electronic manual. All the clearances were at the top of their ranges. Bike has 42,xxx Km. I'm quite interested to see what this tech document is saying for clearances on the 900.

    Thanks Osoblanco on the writeup :D
  5. Ouroboros

    Ouroboros Been here awhile

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    Many thanks to Camel ADV the op. I checked a friends bike for her last night.
    15K miles all in the middle of the specs.
  6. Camel ADV

    Camel ADV Long timer Supporter

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    Glad you found it useful :thumb
  7. JJJZJ

    JJJZJ Been here awhile

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    So I have a 2010 F800gs with 42k on the clock. I am in a position where I am trying to decide if I should upgrade to new or hold onto the 2010 and maintain it.

    Last spring my stator went out in the middle of nowhere UT and caused quite a headache and loss of time before I was back on the road. I really do not want to repeat that again.

    I have my F8, a drz400 I am tired of holding onto and a ~1999/2000 R1100GS my dad gifted me that needs about 700 in engine work to get back to functioning form.

    I reckon I could sell/trade in all 3 and have enough or be close enough to get a new 2014.

    Any thoughts from you guys on maintaining the fleet vs. going for new?

    If going for new, will the accessories(skid plate), rear rack, crash bars, luggage racks, hand guards all bolt to a new 2014? Any idea of the trade in value for a 2010 with 42k?

    If maintaining the 2010, what all should I look at to fix/replace at this bikes age? I was thinking valve check, spark plugs, fuel pump, injectors(maybe), air filter. Anything else?

    Things that have been replaced recently - wheel bearings, chain/sprocket, fuel tank(warranty), rear shock(warranty), stator, front wheel(Woodys)

    Thanks for any and all input. I can do all the work myself, I just prefer to ride instead. :D
  8. Reaver

    Reaver How Did I Get Here?

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    Not really a good spot for this Q......:D

    There are a number of threads on this. This one comes to mind:

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=953864

    Just name a mechanical device that won't fail. The new bikes crack tanks and leak before leaving the showroom. New doesn't guarantee better. If money isn't an issue and you like sitting on a shiny new model then go ahead. If you want to ride and use it off road then learn how to maintain it and address it's weaknesses.

    No bike is "All that".
  9. MikeMike

    MikeMike Long timer

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    Sell all 3.
    Take the money and buy a really good 2001 GS1150.
    Use the money left over to ride it from Prudhoe Bay to Patagonia.
    And then ride it back.
  10. whowardb

    whowardb Adventurer

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    Be aware that the tee connection at the rear underside of the airbox is very fragile. It would have been better if I had disconnected the other (2 throttle body and 1 fuel tank vent) ends of all three hoses.
  11. NCD

    NCD Dirty Hairy Supporter

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    If you remove the seat latch mechanism (4 nuts and some zip ties) you have better access and won't break the tee trying to get the lines off. Then put a little grease on the tee nipples to make it easy next time. You can also put grease on your own nipples too at this point, but that's optional.
  12. UpST8

    UpST8 turnin gas to noise

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    :thumb:poser
  13. JJJZJ

    JJJZJ Been here awhile

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    Haha I have been looking for that post a few up for awhile now....clearly I put it in the wrong thread. Sorry about that

    Anyways in the spirit of contributing, I just checked my valves at 42k for the first time in a while and they were on the low end of the scale, but not bad. Just a .05 bump smaller for each one. So for what its worth, 12k for each check may be overkill. Just some food for thought.
  14. buelrdr29

    buelrdr29 Adventurer

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    In the photo previously posted from the manual it shows a sealing ring to install into the cam shaft. My gasket kit did not come with this seal, and I dont remember seeing on when I took it apart. Is this a part that would have fallen out upon disassembly? I am worried now... maybe I need to pull the cover back off.... bike is a 2009.
  15. kayak1987

    kayak1987 n00b

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    does anyone have the answer for this question?

    And
    Does anyone find something like this when opening the valve cover?
    i'm talking of the color of the inside of the engine red/orange.
    May it be cause of my stator blowed out some days ago?

    [​IMG]
  16. Motoriley

    Motoriley Still riding like crap after all these years.

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    On my bike the little rubber thingy stayed on the camshaft when I pulled the cover.
    That red colour is weird....
  17. nickgindy

    nickgindy KLR Basher

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    Mine did NOT look like that! IMO that doesnt look normal.
  18. javahitman

    javahitman Been here awhile

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    can it be oil related ? not frequent enough change ? or just bad oil which didnt have or lost its cleaning ability ?
  19. kayak1987

    kayak1987 n00b

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    Probably all together
    searching on the internet is much more common than I think specially in the cars engines.

    It seems to be a principle of sludge formation, maybe due to the old oil, old filter (9000km) and high temperature from the stator that burned...

    Anyway in the engine seems to be all ok and at 47.000 km the clearances are inside the limits
  20. Indy Unlimited

    Indy Unlimited Long timer

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    I think your bike ate a KTM :rofl

    Might be some plastic die bleed from something.
    Does not look like a sludge issue to me.
    Try and clean a small area and see if it comes of easily
    I bet it won't come off very easily so then leave it alone and don't worry.