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Discussion in 'Dakar champion (950/990)' started by Gixxer2go, May 16, 2005.
H2Winds kit works awesome on my bike!
off road and on.
The real reason the FB kit is to rich...... is because he tunes on a dyno which cannot simulate riding on the road...... he dose not get the load on the engine than one gets when riding...... this effects the jetting by making it to rich under load...... 53 times I pulled the CVcarbes, 18 with the FCR's
Well i have a little different scenerio, i contacted H2W and head supplied me with a hybrid H2W/FP kit as i am on a SM and doing sport street riding and Track days.
That being stated the i am running bigger mains that stock with no pre-filter installed and to be honest with you i am still a little lean in the mid-range (4t slot form top on needle)
I have no bog anywhere and no surge. I can rip the throttle and she responds perfect with wheel in the air.
Heres a question for you guys, the shims that are on the needle adjust the needle but is there any need to have them fitted?
If I want to run the 3rd position with a FP needle is there any reason to even put the shims in as it I have one under it then its not truly at 3rd position but slightly shimmed up and there isn't alot of room on the top of the clip for the shims so might as well leave them out?
If you look at the carb break down in the manual they show the shims in the exploded view but in the strip down info they don't show any so in theory even the factory doesn't say you need them in there.
what do you believe would be the benefit of removing them? yes you are correct, with the thin shim under the clip it is effectively no longer a true #3 position but slightly more, roughly a half clip position difference.
reasons that I would leave them in the positions that they typically are found:
1. reduction of wear of the slide with the thin shim under the clip
2. thick shim on top increases the preload of the retention spring and also keeps the spring from getting caught up in the clip.
3. benefits of the points 1,2 IMO outweigh the potential benefits of removing them for??? reduction of mass??? or??
4. I will have to look, but I believe that the large shim on top also offers a bit of a bore location effect too.... to help keep the needle in line with the slide
Sounds fair enough reasons, I just hadn't seen anything explaining it one way or the other.
With the HDW kit fitted will it benefit a 950 SE with changing to the 950sm slide springs which are lighter thus resulting in the slide lifting faster.
And drilling the slides to 3mm really help with the pick up.
can somebody put a picture of the 950 air screw ajustment ,and other ajustments, and identify them, please.
More info at http://www.ktm950.info/
Well, I did what Pyndon did and I put my jet specs at 165 front 170 rear float height at 3 mm needle position 3rd clip and from fully closed the 1 1/2 turns out on the air jet and a 45 pilot jet. Now when I turn the key on I get fuel coming out of the carburator on the right side on the hose that comes down on the bottom of the bike. I don't know why the fuel is overflowing every time I turn the key on. I checked the float height, I checked the jets, I checked anything I could see, but I can't figure out why the fuel is overflowing in the garage on the floor. Anyone have any ideas?
Sounds like you forgot to reattach the hose from the fuel pump to the carb "Y" that feeds the carbs. Turn key on, fuel pump primes and out spews fuel into the bottom of the air box. Have a look and let us know. Otherwise the float cover on one of the carbs isnt on properly - seal is seated incorrectly.
one of the vent lines was pinched against the side air box and that was it. I put it back together after taking the tanks off 17 times and trying to get this jetting stuff figured out. Now it seems to run perfectly. We'll see on my next adventure ride. Thanks for your information.
Does anyone know why my '06 950 seems to pulsate from 3000-4500 rpm? It's not a real smooth linear ride like some of my bikes I've had. Does that mean it's too rich or too lean? Which jet would I adjust to get that area smooth?
leannnnnnnn Raise the needle please.
Hey Head2Wind or anyone else who can tell me, I've installed my FP kit to your recommendations to start (from post 732) but had a question on the #70 IAJ, in the KTM parts list they show the #50 as a different part number to the other 2 but I see in the options for the other 2 have a #70, is this the jet you use to replace the #50 or is it different?
Thanks for the suggestions,
Sounds like could be float height, seems to be missed alot. Does it get better or worse hot?
Procedure from the factory pro tuning instructions. AFTER finding best main and clip position.
I lowered my float .5mm to richen that bogg out. As the spec is only3mm more than .5mm change seems extream. IIRC the factory setting can be off on either carb causing some imballance.
There was some concern from the fourm that I was too rich. Seat of the pants I like it rich but my milage sucks compaired to buddys HW2 kit.. His lacks punch. If I were worried about gas milage I ride a KLR.
I've fitted the FP kit along Headwinds recommended setup, as in..
#45 LSJ-in the FP kit --this is a good starting point, you may find that the #42 coupled with a #85 ACVjet swapping out the #80 ACVjet has proved viable also.
#70 IAJ-NOT in the FP kit but a key alteration to make it run better with the #45 LSJ.
#165 front main-typically in the FP kit
#168 rear main-typically NOT in the FP kit.
#3 or #2 needle clip, start with the #3 then go from there.
1.75-2.0 IMS turns out
3.5mm float height- stock is 3.0mm, 3.5 will lean the idle/off idle slightly and also improve the float systems ability to maintain proper fuel level during repeated heavy impacts.... ie woops, big washes or studder bumps.
The only difference is I don't have the #70 IAJ yet but otherwise its as above, tested rode the bike and first thing I noticed was throttle adjustment wasn't right so have adjusted that and think its pretty close to right, its pulls strongly right through the rev range and wants to pull the front up alot more than before.
I do have one issues and not 100% whats causing it, the engine braking is strange, if you rev it and close the throttle the revs drop to about 4-4.5k than seem to hold there so when you coming into a corner you have to brake harder as the engine is pushing for a few seconds then drops, is this the IAJ being the factory #50?
I made sure not to kink any vent hose etc so don't think its vacuum pressure holding it open but not sure whats causing it, If anyone else has had after jetting how did you tune it out?
Pulling the carb's to make adjustments doesn't worry me as I want to get it right but I'd prefer to no have to do it too many time if I can help as its hot in the garage
Tried the above setup and then dropped the mains to 160f/165r (H2W suggestion as we have higher octane here) and now feels better from 5k, leaner and crisper too redline than before but now worse off the line at sub 4k rev's and still no engine braking under 4k.
Riding down a hill offroad I was having to hold it back on the brakes as it won't drop below @4K, checked the balance again after changing the main jets with the hose, board and fluid trick and seems fine but have noted that the rear slide is fluttering, if you crank the balance out of balance it stops?
I backed off the tension on the choke just incase that was causing the engine to rev high under decellaration but can't see anything else that could be causing it, I am getting some #70 IAJ from H2W, all the vent hoses are fine and the carbs are fitted correctly, not SAS etc and ran fine with the factory setup with raised needles so not sure whats causing the issues as it should be setup fine or atleast pretty close, so any suggestions would be appreciated.
2 turns out IMS
factory air jets
FP needle with thin shim under on 3rd clip
floats @3.1/3.2mm front and rear
throttle cables adjusted
choke adjusted right off,
all SAS etc removed
Hello all! If any cares to help me get a start point on a 07 950 SM I'd sure appreciate it! I've not found a site that offers any kit believably close for this bike. Now that I'm here and U'ns seem to know your stuff!!! 1200 miles, Stock everything, all the junk still on, nothin been molested except a pair of slip on mufflers ( Erion C/F) *made it start & Idle better. Runs fine "WOT" to the rev limiter in second, but the surging has got to go that is in the middle on cruise. Idles fine, does fast like a tard should.