Final drive spline grease

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by BMottorrad, Jun 3, 2019.

  1. BMottorrad

    BMottorrad Ex-Rocketman

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    Haven't posted in some years. Bike's been on some great adventures and doing oil changes every spring is pretty straight forward.

    I thought I'd finally look at final drive after 26000 miles. Drained the oil. Still bright pink. Spline was dry.

    After searching, it seems a few in the UK uses castrol alloy molub. I tried getting liqui moly but my GS dealer in canada says they use Bel Ray. So I got a tub. Its a marine grade waterproof multipurpose grease. Ratings are good. I'll give it a go.
    #1
  2. Jim-Mer

    Jim-Mer Slowing Down

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    Honda M77 is a specially designed grease for use on splines similar to those on our BMWs.
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  3. lewisjr1

    lewisjr1 Long timer Supporter

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    Any grease is better than no grease, and many have used marine grade grease with success.
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  4. BMottorrad

    BMottorrad Ex-Rocketman

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    I didnt have time to order grease online and if my dealer uses it then it's good for me.
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  5. Steptoe

    Steptoe steptoe

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    Do we get a prize for guessing the model of bike ?
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  6. LAFS

    LAFS Long timer

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    No prize.

    However the splines on whatever bike dont care if you use synthetic or dino grease, just that you use some grease unlike BMW and it's assembly line.
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  7. Steptoe

    Steptoe steptoe

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    1100/1150 driveshaft splines rarely if ever need greasing. In 30 years of working on BMW's I've never had a driveshaft from those models with worn splines (que all the tales of woe from 1100/1150 owners who've had splines wear out :D), just lucky or not a problem to worry about ?

    The 1200 splines are a different kettle of fish.. I get a few a year with worn splines. mainly to water ingress due the appalling quality of the rubber gaiters used on the 1200 swingarm and paralever.

    You need a grease specifically for splines, not an anti-seize grease.
    BMW use Staburags NBU30 PTM.
    Honda do an equivalent, Honda Moly 60/M-77 assembly paste/grease.
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  8. LAFS

    LAFS Long timer

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    Funny as I thought the 1100/1150 series were really sensitive to lube of the splines. I am pretty sure it is called out for in maintenance for the bike while never a mention for the 1200.

    Yes I have a jar of NBU30 PTM and is what I use for the shifter linkage and various other lube areas.
    #8
  9. lewisjr1

    lewisjr1 Long timer Supporter

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    This post may have meandered a bit - like that never happens!

    OP referred to splines at the FD. See post # 1. Then I made a generic comment (or so I thought) about "any grease..." And then we shifted to transmission & clutch splines.

    Ah-hah! The first can't possibly hurt, but also isn't gen. considered necessary. And the last is gen. considered nec., and could possibly hurt if not performed.

    Clear as mud, er grease, right? Bottom line on 11X0 bikes, clean & lightly grease the splines at the transmission shaft whenever the clutch is accessed - which admittedly isn't often for most owners.

    On the car side of the business, not that it always transfers, Sachs markets a grease expressly for this purpose. I can't imagine that they actually produce it, but the tube bears their label. BMW's way old (80's maybe) ver. of this stuff was called GL 261, but there were complaints about it lasting in high heat conditions. As I worked on Beemers in the deep south, we had some concern - mostly about having to reperform work without getting paid for it. That's how I became aware of the Sachs product (though not until the late 90s or early-aughts). Plenty (hundreds) of compatible products exist.

    For those esp. anal-retentive, and who among us isn't about one thing or the other, it's possible to apply a dry film powdered paste that's similar to dry gun lubes. I'm not sure what the shear or tech. spec. would be, but the stuff is out there. On top of that, whatever grease might be desired can be lathered (not really, a little dab'll do ya). Double the protection, at more than double the time & cost, but it's belt & suspenders. That's always a good look!

    drylube_brush.jpg

    The underlying clutch spline issue on 1150s is also addressed, though I do not know how well, by Motobins' clutch friction plate with extended splines. When my time comes, and surely it will, I'll almost certainly try one of these. Now I need to go find some wood to knock on.

    Euro Motoelectrics offers a single (ish) use tube for cheap enough... https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/lube477.htm

    As does BBY... https://www.beemerboneyard.com/endura477splb.html

    And Anton explains the larger risk factors with these 1150 clutch splines... http://largiader.com/articles/oilspline/
    #9
  10. maxjett

    maxjett Ride with Rocko Supporter

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    Did he misspell Starbucks?
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  11. Lead Wrist

    Lead Wrist More Gelände less Straße

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    No :lol3

    51Deau3KDuL.jpg
    #11
  12. BMottorrad

    BMottorrad Ex-Rocketman

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    1. I posted in the GS forum. So you can figure it’s a GS. But to be specific it’s a 1200 Gsa. 2010. 27000 miles.

    2. The splines were bone dry and not corroded so I’m not overly concerned with brand of grease. Bel ray is waterproof. I don’t ford rivers so I’m good.
    #12
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  13. lewisjr1

    lewisjr1 Long timer Supporter

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    If you neither ford nor fjord your GSA, then that Bel Ray is entirely sufficient. Probably by a factor of five or ten, in fact. A thin coating is all that it takes on both sets of teeth.

    And if anyone has video of a GS actually fjording, please do share!
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  14. BMottorrad

    BMottorrad Ex-Rocketman

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    Aye, it’s going on it’s annual 5000km trip next month. Back to Monterey for the Laguna seca world superbike event. As many B roads and switchbacks we can find. My mates on an s1000RR.
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  15. usgser

    usgser Long timer

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    +1
    Any grease is better than none. For shaft splines I'd recommend a moly 'paste' not grease. Honda Moly60 Paste used to be theindustry accepted standard but don't think it's avail anymore? Don't remember what brand I use currently. Beauty of moly paste over grease is that you don't need much. Just a thin coating and it doesn't migrate and get flung off like grease so maint/application intervals are extended.
    #15
  16. b_rubenstein

    b_rubenstein Been here awhile

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    MSDS for Loctitle Moly Paste: https://www1.mscdirect.com/MSDS/MSDS00014/00270256-20190227.PDF There was a reference to it on some BMW forum. It's what I used for the splines on my 2017 1200GS , which BTW had a painted shaft drive and no signs of any rust or corrosion. NBU 30 is what used on the mating surface of the boot with the swing arm & FD.
    #16
  17. LAFS

    LAFS Long timer

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    I assure you NBU 30 is in fact a assembly lube. It is used by BMW when they dont forget. It is also what is around the rubber boot.
    #17
  18. Lead Wrist

    Lead Wrist More Gelände less Straße

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    Don't take it personally... Recently, there's slew of posts which are in G-Spot forum and yet are in no way shape or form related to any of current of previous MY GSs... :D

    And, it is helpful to include MY (Model Year) of GS you have so you get better and direct response rather than sifting through the irrelevant posts applicable for different GS platforms but rather useless to you...

    :thumb
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  19. BMottorrad

    BMottorrad Ex-Rocketman

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    I just finished oil and grease on final drive. I think I messed up. Does the final drive drain have an o-ing and crush washer? I have crush washer wondering why it's on the floor.
    #19
  20. BMottorrad

    BMottorrad Ex-Rocketman

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    I found out what it is. 1559797259599.jpg
    #20