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Finding Freedom...World Wide Ride

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by BcDano, Jul 19, 2012.

  1. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    SmilinJoe, MaNDan and marior97 like this.
  2. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    Today we are headed to or at least towards Sicily depending on how the day goes. We stuck to the coast road, on which we made very quick time and we were at Cabo Vaticano by about 230. So we decided to make a run for the ferry at Villa San Giovanni.


    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2016-05-25 at 21.10.21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


    Getting in and out of the cape was a bit hairy as following the GPS some times can be. We were on some very steep ups and downs with tight hairpins. At times on a very steep hill that you had to yield to traffic crossing! Also we were off road a bit on a track grown in with bamboo, which we had to pull bits out of the crash bars after some bush whacking. Getting out was a bit easier once we found the right tiny steep narrow path and back to the main road.


    [​IMG]To Sicily CC-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]To Sicily CC by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]To Sicily CC-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]To Sicily CC-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]To Sicily CC-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  3. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
  4. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    We arrived to the ferry dock at about 4 and they ferry was just unloading. They are so busy here they are unloading one boat at the same time as loading another so the traffic is crossing. It is a 35 min ride to Messina Sicily. We rolled up and there is a massive sign over the road in English that says BUY YOUR TICKETS HERE!


    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2016-05-25 at 21.18.31 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]To Sicily CC-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]To Sicily CC-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]To Sicily CC-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]To Sicily CC-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]To Sicily CC-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Sicily-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  5. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    Here in Messina we stopped for groceries as we planned to camp tonight. We had first though to just go the 28 Km to the first camp place, but decided to press on. It actually took over 2 hours in traffic to get the 62 km to the campground on the cape and we were an exhausted mess by then.

    [​IMG]To Sicily CC-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]To Sicily CC-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr



    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2016-05-25 at 21.23.54 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


    The traffic is heavy and people are parked all over both sides of the road. The buses are stopping every 2 minutes! I will say the Sicilian drivers are better than the Italians in general and we actually saw driver courtesy a few times today. They do not drive right on your back tire and pass with more care.
    MaNDan and marior97 like this.
  6. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
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  7. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
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  8. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    We planned to take the coast road, but after 3 hours to get 116 km we had had enough and headed for the toll highway. It was not too bad except for the traffic in the towns where you were going 15 km /hr.



    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2016-05-25 at 21.28.55 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    This is almost a continuous set of tunnels of 300-3000 metes with small breaks between. We were a bit worried how much it was going to cost for the 100 km since there was so little traffic, but it was only 4 Euros per bike! At the price of gas here were are even on time saved.


    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2016-05-25 at 21.29.32 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    The price of gas here varies widely even if 2 stations are in the same block. Today we say from 1.39 E to 1.72 (7.27 USD/ gallon). Arriving To Palermo the traffic was actually following the rules of the road (I know novel concept here in Italy).
    dwj - Donnie, SmilinJoe and marior97 like this.
  9. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    So getting into Palermo was a cake walk compared to Naples. The hotel we booked as about a 40 min walk from the historic centre and so we headed out to explore. Here we really appreciated the gothic and baroque buildings.

    [​IMG]Sicily-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Sicily-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Sicily-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Sicily-24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Sicily-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Sicily by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Sicily-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Sicily-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Sicily-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr





    [​IMG]Sicily-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Sicily-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


    [​IMG]Sicily-23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Sicily-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Sicily-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Sicily-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Sicily-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Sicily-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Sicily-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
    SmilinJoe, MaNDan and marior97 like this.
  10. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    Getting out was even less of an issue and we were quickly on the main road west to Trapani. This is a quick 107 km and there was very little traffic. It was non existent getting into Trapani.


    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2016-05-26 at 22.26.58 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    We are headed to the Suzuki dealer here to arrange oil changes and new brake pads for both bikes. In addition the water pump on the 650 has a small leak, which we noted about 10 days ago. Daniel had brought a new one with him since he was worried it would fail on the 800, but its’ poor Lulu with the runny nose. We were told of the shop by our Swedish friend Orvar who had service done on his 1200 2 months ago. The owner created us and was happy to do the work. the only issue is it is some sort of holiday here today on a Thursday and the device shop is closed. He set us up for 830 the next morning. Now it is 1030 am and we have to change plans.


    [​IMG]Trapani Bike Service-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    Bulk wine!! You bring your own container.


    [​IMG]Trapani Bike Service-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  11. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    So its tomorrows route today.

    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2016-05-26 at 22.37.12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr



    We back tracked on the highway over the farm land to get to the foothills.


    [​IMG]Sicily-27 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    We want to visit Corleone!

    [​IMG]Sicily-25 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


    Many of the roads we took are “unmaintained” according to the signs, but its hard to tell the difference since the road surface is pretty bad in parts on the regular roads. We went 20-30 min at a time and never saw another vehicle.

    [​IMG]Sicily-26 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    Then we made a track out to the beach at San Vito lo Cabo. This 253 km loop took 6 hours with stops.

    [​IMG]Sicily-28 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  12. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    Feb 19, 2011
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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
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  13. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    Feb 19, 2011
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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    Leaving the shop at 230 pm it was 37 degrees. We had planned only a short day since we did not know exactly when they would be done. This worked for us as we had a few hours poolside this afternoon. We met a great couple here from Bonn Ulla and Martin also on an 800 GS.

    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2016-05-28 at 20.47.27 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    There was a bit of cloud cover today and we had hoped for cooler weather, but no it was 35-36 most of the 188 km to Catania. It did cool to 28 about 20 km from the coast.

    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2016-05-28 at 20.46.18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  14. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
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  15. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    The drivers here are so un Italian is was a breeze to get into the city. Finding the B&B was a bit more difficult since the GPS coordinates were correct, but there was no sign and the GPS said the street address was one street over. This is at 30 degrees on narrow warrens of roads, many of which are one way and some dead ends. Finally we asked for direction, but that was not help. Ultimately we went back to the first spot and by then the owner was out looking for us!


    [​IMG]To Mainland from Sicily CC by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


    We spent the day walking in the historic centre.This town is definitely a bit gritty. The drivers here have some manners though. There is graffiti on all the buildings in the historic centre. Several of the big landmarks once open to the public are in ruins.



    [​IMG]Catania-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Catania-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Catania-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Catania-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Catania-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Catania-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Catania-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Catania-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Catania by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    There are ruins of a Roman amphitheater buried under the city. They have excavated a small part.

    [​IMG]Catania-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  16. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    That said we had an enjoyable afternoon and some great ice cream with the ladies who had just left one of the many wedding we saw in the city today. For dinner we stopped at a road side Bbq spot for some MEAT! Of course a gelato.

    [​IMG]Catania-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Catania Iphone-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Catania Iphone by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Catania Iphone-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Catania Iphone-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]
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  17. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    Todays plan is just to get to the ferry dock, back to the mainland, and then about 250 km north east. If you take the coast road from Catania to Messina it is 104 km and takes 3 hours, but if you take the toll road for 3.50 E it is 96 km and only take 1 hr 15.

    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2016-06-02 at 16.07.48 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2016-06-02 at 16.07.30 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


    We also decided on a side trip on the loop road up on the Etna Volcano. This is a 48 km loop off our course that adds 1 hr 20 min. There are a ton of guys racing up and down on donor cycles and some of them in packs will come up on you at serious speed.


    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2016-06-02 at 16.08.26 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2016-06-02 at 16.08.45 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  18. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    Up the south side you can see the lava flows and you arrive to the base of the active cone, where you can get the gondola up.

    [​IMG]To Mainland from Sicily CC-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]To Mainland from Sicily CC-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


    On the north side it is treed, but you can see the real cone and the smoke coming out from it from this perspective.

    [​IMG]To Mainland from Sicily CC-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Etna-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Etna-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Etna by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  19. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    Arriving to the dock we only had about a 15 min wait for the next ferry.

    [​IMG]To Mainland from Sicily CC-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]To Mainland from Sicily CC-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]To Mainland from Sicily CC-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    Routing north the only option is to stick to the main highway as even if you enter avoid all highways you are still routed here since on the small roads it would take days. We headed 226 KM north east to Lombardo and finally got some time on the highway pegs.


    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2016-06-02 at 16.10.51 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


    The gas here on the highway is 160 plus and we decided to hyper mile the last 60 km to get off the highway to get gas in the village (still 1.50). The small hotel we booked was in a tiny town, but it did have a hip bar/gelateria with good cones.
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  20. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
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    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    Today we are going to Bari in 304 km to get the ferry to Durrës Albania.


    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2016-06-02 at 16.12.12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Bari CC by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    On the way we had an itinerary of sights to see. The first stop was at Matera. This is a town where until the 1960’s people still lived in the caves here.

    “Matera has gained international fame for its ancient town, the "Sassi di Matera" (meaning "stones of Matera"). The Sassi originated in a prehistoric troglodyte settlement, and these dwellings are thought to be among the first ever human settlements in what is now Italy. The Sassi are habitations dug into the calcareous rock itself, which is characteristic of Basilicata and Apulia. Many of them are really little more than caverns, and in some parts of the Sassi a street lies on top of another group of dwellings. The ancient town grew up on one slope of the rocky ravine created by a river that is now a small stream, and this ravine is known locally as "la Gravina". In the 1950s, the government of Italy used force to relocate most of the population of the Sassi to areas of the developing modern city.

    Until the late 1980s the Sassi was considered an area of poverty, since its dwellings were, and in most cases still are, uninhabitable. The present local administration, however, has become more tourism-oriented, and it has promoted the regeneration of the Sassi with the aid of the Italian government, UNESCO, and Hollywood. Today there are many thriving businesses, pubs, and hotels there.”

    [​IMG]White Cities-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]White Cities-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]White Cities-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]White Cities-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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