Finding Freedom...World Wide Ride

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by BcDano, Jul 19, 2012.

  1. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    Welcome!! Nice to have you with us!!
  2. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    HA yes! He was down fast, but bounced back. "quick healer" his mom always said. We are being more careful to drink not just water with all the sweating we need a coke or too also!
    powderzone likes this.
  3. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    We are like frogs in hot water we are getting acclimatized. 39 seems so nice after 43!!! Off to Kazakhstan dessert this week so back in the 40 s and no trees!!!
  4. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    All of us were a bit baked from the heat and all had a bit of GI upset and so we decided to book a third night. You actually can not be outside between 11 am and 7 pm it is searing.

    Three "dollar" bills?!

    [​IMG]IMG_8922 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    There are a few bikers here Ken from Germany and Michael from Ireland who just finished the Pamir. Also Jen and Pete are here and headed east in their land cruiser. Darius from Poland bought a bike in Oz and is headed home.

    [​IMG]Dushanbe-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Dushanbe-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    Orvar was taking his wheel to swap the tire at the local bike shop and Dan was taking mine since the second plug did not hold. I’m not sure you could expect mush since they were 45 degree mush when we put them in and then had to ride right away from Tashkent and from the Tajik border. The tire shop had un-melted plugs that we hope will work. If not tire off and patch. There are 2 Norwegians here too that are buying scooters to do the Pamir. Now that is adventure.

    [​IMG]IMG_8926 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


    On their recommendation we all took taxi’s down to the city centre to the Taj restaurant for very good Indian food. So far and surprisingly Tajikistan has been the culinary highlight of the trip.

    [​IMG]Dushanbe by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
  5. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    We woke up Sunday morning to find Kyle from Wales and Dave from Scotland who had come off the Pamir and arrived at the hostel at 8 am. Kyle had come on the top road M41 thru Tavildara (very rough) and Dave on the lower thru Kulob with his bike on a truck due to a blown piston.


    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2017-07-06 at 19.17.47 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    Our plan was to leave in the morning by the lower road and ride 249 km to the Afghan border and camp at place called can you believe it “Camping with a view of Afghanistan”.


    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2017-07-23 at 20.29.47 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2017-07-23 at 20.30.11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]IMG_0743 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    We had a bit of a late start and finally after air in tires, gas, minor adjustments…photo session.

    [​IMG]Dushanbe-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
    marior97, powderzone, MaNDan and 3 others like this.
  6. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    Feb 19, 2011
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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    July 10 to “THE” landslide and then back to Kulob


    We left town at 10 am. It was 38 degrees already. The ride south and east is slow going in the heat.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan kulob by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    We have heard from several riders that the police here will hassle you and try to extract bribes. We were pulled over by 2 cops going 50 in a 50. They never had a radar gun out until after they stopped us and then they said we were going 74 (showing us the likely non functional radar gun)! We all laughed and said no way. None spoke any English. They wanted to see our driver’s license and Dan did not hand his over, but only showed it in the wallet (small argument proceeds). We got off took off our helmets and jackets and prepared to wait them out. Mean while a car sped by going over 80 and they did nothing. Orvar and Trevor were behind us with the second cop who had their licenses and kept saying Euro Euro. We just ignored them and actually they gave up fairly easily after 6-7 minutes.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan kulob-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan kulob-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    The road goes thru a few bigger towns and when it hit 43 we stoped of cold drinks, gas, and shade. You turn off to the E008 just after Vahdat at 22 km and head up into the hills where it was a cooler 34.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan kulob-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  7. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    We had a break at the view point over the lake and then unfortunately the road drops back down onto the plain and the heat was up to 39.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan kulob-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan kulob-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    After the town of Kulob you again head up hill and the temperature was a more tolerable 34. We stopped by a spring road side to cool off and the man there told us the road was blocked 4 km up. We decided to go check it out at least as it is 4 plus hours back track to get to the M41. They road deteriorates to used to be paved and then to a good gravel road. After 226 km we pulled up to the military check point that Dave said we would see and the Captain who spoke English came out to talk to us. There was a “catastrophe” at the river yesterday afternoon and 3 separate land slides removed 700 m of the road. They expect a fix in 3-4 weeks! We were lucky as this occurred exactly 24 hours ago and several cars were washed away.

    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2017-07-17 at 17.16.35 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2017-07-17 at 17.16.55 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2017-07-17 at 16.56.50 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan kulob-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan kulob-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan kulob-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan kulob-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
    marior97, MaNDan and SavannahCapt like this.
  8. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    Hmmm now we need to decide what to do. There are no other passable roads to the M41. There is one route, but the local guys we met there in a land rover said they would not do it. On the way back we ran into UK Jen and Pete and we were all retreating 30 km back to Kulob.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan kulob-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    We are very hot and tired and very thirsty. The first hotel we picked they showed up too. It was a bit sketchy and we moved onto a second that was actually very clean, comfortable, and chic. (200/room=22USD). So Orvar went over to tell the UK team and they moved here too. To eat there was a buffet/ al la carte spot across the street, which was as far as we could go in 43 degrees. Next we all cowered in the air con and were all asleep by 9.
  9. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    July 11 back to Vahdat and then to Tavildara 356 km

    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2017-07-17 at 17.18.05 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    We planned a much earlier day today and we were on the road by 7. This was so we could at least be back to Vahdat near Dushanbe to make the turn onto the 41.

    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2017-07-17 at 16.51.48 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    The ride back was much more pleasant at 28-32 than the 43 of yesterday. We also made much better time with only one stop midway.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Tavildara Pamir-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Tavildara Pamir-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
  10. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    In Vahdat we gassed up with 95 and this makes a difference. The 41 out of the city is busy with traffic.

    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2017-07-17 at 16.52.07 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


    Just after leaving town we had our first of three police wave overs. We were going 52 in a 50, but the cop said we were all (he did not even have the gun out when we rode up) going 78! We said no way and after about 5 minutes he let us go. Dan meanwhile made friends with a local.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Tavildara Pamir-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


    Not more than 2 km later we were pulled over because we did not break at the Stop sign on the side of the road. We did not break, because the cop was flagging us over even before we got TO the stop sign. We argued with him in English and he with us in Russian. We pointed out all the cars going by that did not stop and again after 5 minutes he let us go.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Tavildara Pamir-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Tavildara Pamir-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Tavildara Pamir-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
  11. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    marior97, SavannahCapt and MaNDan like this.
  12. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    Feb 19, 2011
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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    At times it is very narrow and with 2 way traffic it can be a bit hairy on tight corners and hills. There are a few minor water crossings and several washed out area. A lot of the surface is very rough.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Tavildara Pamir-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    Then suddenly it will be paved for a stretch!

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Tavildara Pamir-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Tavildara Pamir-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Tavildara Pamir-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
  13. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    Feb 19, 2011
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    The surface is mostly hard packed, but bumpy at times.

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Tavildara Pamir-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    One section the entire road had fallen into the river and the road was diverted into a farmers field.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Tavildara Pamir-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Tavildara Pamir-23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Tavildara Pamir-24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
  14. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    Feb 19, 2011
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    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    Quite a sketchy bridge over a wash out. Its tilted and the metal plates are buckled.



    [​IMG]Tajikistan Tavildara Pamir-25 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


    There was a passport control where the M 41 turns off the main road and goes south at Chumdon after 128 km from Vahdat. We had to show our passport and Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region (GBAO) permit. Our data was entered into a large ledger. It was interesting to see that 75 % of the local came in and Shook the Policeman’s hand with a wad of cash. They did not have their info in the lager then it seems. It was incredible how much cash was changing hands in the 15 minutes we were there.

    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2017-07-26 at 10.46.36 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    The road from here is dirt and gravel thru Childara to Tavildara.

    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2017-07-26 at 10.45.38 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Tavildara Pamir-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Tavildara Pamir-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Tavildara Pamir-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Tavildara Pamir-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Tavildara Pamir-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Tavildara Pamir-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
  15. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    We drew a crowd of kids at the gas station


    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    The wind really picked up with a thermal just as we we're arriving to Tivaldara at 430 and it was whipping the dust. It was difficult to hold the bike up when we parked at the second military check point. Here again you register your passport, but we did not see any payoffs here.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Tavildara Pamir-26 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
    marior97, SavannahCapt and MaNDan like this.
  16. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    Feb 19, 2011
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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    We crossed over the bridge to the town. It is clearly a government local (district capital) as most of the buildings have official plaques and signage.

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-27 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    We followed the GPS to the supposed guest house listed, but no luck. There is “can you believe it in this tiny town” a traffic signal on the single paved road. Here a boy came up and mimicked sleep and said he would take us to the guest house.

    This was in a communist era building and they family was very nice. Getting the bikes into the yard was all ADV. It was over the ditch on a wobbly cement slab, up the stairs, over the metal pipe, and thru the gate.

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-26 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    It is simple rooms with 2 single beds and sketch bedclothes so we opted for our sleeping bags. The shower and toilet were clean, but old school. There was cold water only and bare wires to avoid. That said they made us a dinner of very good soup, fires and weiners! We were all asleep before 10.

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-28 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-30 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-31 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-29 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
  17. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    July 12 Tavildara to “2 spots” past Dekh

    At 6 am canned music and what sound like propaganda started playing over the loudspeakers of the town. We planned to set out early anyway as we had a very long day.

    Orvar had it in hid mind we would make it 321 km to Kurog, but there is no way. I though we might make it to “camping with a beach and shade” just south of Ruson in 254 km. It is 80 KM to Kalaikhum and that took 4 hours.

    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2017-07-23 at 21.40.09 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2017-07-17 at 22.20.24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2017-07-17 at 17.19.03 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-32 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2017-07-17 at 17.09.39 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
    MaNDan likes this.
  18. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    Feb 19, 2011
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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    Leaving town over the bridge again we say the raging river that we would see most of the day. The road surface is firm and pretty good initially and some sections have remnants of pavement and some have remnants of road.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Pamir Dekh by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Pamir Dekh-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-33 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    The 41 does a right hand turn over another bridge, but the road beyond is washed out and the bridge here gone. This was a smaller water crossing then up a steep hill to the first military check point of the day. The guy here was a bit of a jerk and most seem on a bit of a power trip. He insisted we park on the right side of the road where the slope made it very difficult to park.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Pamir Dekh-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Pamir Dekh-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-34 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-36 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Pamir Dekh-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
  19. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    The road goes along the river and there are a few wet sections. As we headed up into the hills the road was more surfaced at times. The cars coming at you are driving mock speed and never slow to pass you and never give was on the “good” track on the road, but always push you into the deeper gravel.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Pamir Dekh-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-38 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Pamir Dekh-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Pamir Dekh-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Pamir Dekh-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Pamir Dekh-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-39 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
  20. DavidM1

    DavidM1 Unicorn hunting

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    Mar 3, 2013
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    1,883
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    I'm seeing хуш омадед everywhere now, but I don't get the right hand message here - нури дида - "see the light".