Finding Freedom...World Wide Ride

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by BcDano, Jul 19, 2012.

  1. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,936
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    It is 56 km to Rushon and as we arrived there Trevor had a front flat. Long story short 3 hours in the heat to get out. The first tube had a tiny hole and the patch was good, but we could not set the bead and it did not seem to hold air. This tube out again and no evidence of anther hole or patch leak. New tube in and still could not set the bead. We have never had this issue before with Dan’s 6 flats using our pump. In the end we put it back on the bike and left and so far so good. The Heidenau are so stiff and this may be the issue.

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-91 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    Yet another check point. We found they call ahead since when we arrived before the other 2 the guard asked us where they were.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan khorong-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


    [​IMG]Tajikistan khorong-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


    [​IMG]Tajikistan khorong-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-92 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-93 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-94 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  2. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    Feb 19, 2011
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    3,936
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    We had just 67 km to go to Khorog and arrived about 2. We gassed up with some 95 and then check out the hotels on offer and it is pretty bad. Just out of town is the Pamir lodge frequented by foreigners and we headed there just in time as at 3 pm the town was shutting down and closing the roads to access here for the “Diamond Jubilee”. This is several venues around town open only to residents and there is loudspeakers blaring. They really had guards blocking off the roads. One Swiss couple had to park their car on the back street of the lodge because the guards would not let them drive it 20 meters to the lodge gate. We did walk the 2 km into town and went to the Indian restaurant. Both Orvar and Sara have bad colds and were in bed by 6. The party outside went on until midnight.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan khorong-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-95 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
  3. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,936
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    July 14 Khorog to across the river from Pagol Afganistan
    We were off to a bit of a late start today and finally got out of town at almost 10. The plan was to get at least 150 km or about 1/3 of the way to Murgab on the Wakhan valley road. The direct route is on the 41 for 317 km, which is a paved road and the second highest road in the world (this is a days ride) . The views on the valley road, which is not surfaced for the most part are said to be much better and the route is about 100 km longer and will take at 2-3 days.

    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2017-07-17 at 17.11.12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2017-07-17 at 17.23.35 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2017-07-17 at 17.27.21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
    marior97 likes this.
  4. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,936
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    We were surprised to find the road mostly surfaced headed out of Khorag.. The first 80 km took several hours since we stopped so much for photos and we did have one military check.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Pagol by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-96 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Pagol-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-98 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-103 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-104 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Pagol-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  5. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    Feb 19, 2011
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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
  6. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    Feb 19, 2011
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    3,936
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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    We arrived to Eshkashem/Ishkashim bridge, which is the famed bridge of the afghan market. This is now just an urban legend as there is absolutely no traffic across this bridge and no market on the Afghan side.

    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2017-07-09 at 15.26.20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Pagol-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Pagol-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Pagol-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Pagol-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    Our friend Steve Stewart on the right not to far from here but back in the day!!

    [​IMG]19756771_1201953103266849_7994838002837941334_n by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  7. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,936
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    About 1230 we came upon a “hotel/spa” and restaurant for lunch. Just after we left the lunch spot we hit some more ripio and Dan’s 800 cut out. It restarted and then cut out again. It ran fine in Neutral. Hmmm we hoped it was the battery connection and luckily for us it was. The negative had been shaken loose with the very rough roads of the last few days.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Pagol-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    The road from here was still mostly surface with patches of gravel until about the 150 km mark.
    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-105 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Pagol-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-106 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-107 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Pagol-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-108 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-109 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-110 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-111 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-113 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-114 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-116 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


    Our tax dollars at work!
    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-115 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
  8. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
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    3,936
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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    After the 150 km mark there were long stretches of deeper gravel and one particularly deep sand section that claimed Trevor and Sara.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Pagol-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-118 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-119 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-120 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-121 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-122 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-124 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Pagol-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Pagol-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-125 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-126 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  9. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    Feb 19, 2011
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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    We did keep going as we did not find anywhere to camp with any shelter. Finally at about 4 we came across a homes tay with a walled yard that was across the river from Pagol Afganistan. We could camp here with breakfast for 5$. The toilet in a long drop, but odour free. The “douche” was awesome. They have a huge metal barrel filled with water on a electric burner device and it was glorious. You stood in the tub and poured clean hot water over yourself! The tents and gear set up done it was time to cook our pasta and sauce with mars bars for dessert. The camp is at 3000 m, which is a bit high for us as we were at 2500 m last night and with the head colds Sara and Orvar did suffer. We are glad to be inside the walls as the evening thermal wind is brisk and gusting.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Pagol-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-127 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-128 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-129 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-130 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-131 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
  10. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    Feb 19, 2011
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    3,936
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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    July 15 “Pagol" to Murgab

    Today the plan was to get another 1/3 of the way to Murgab at least. We were up at 6 as we were in bed at asleep at 830. But first some breakfast and we hit the road just before 9.

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-132 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-133 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    The more we think about it the more we think we can make it all the way to Murgab today. Google will not route that way so here is the SPOT map. It is about 300 km and all but the last 130km is unpaved.


    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2017-07-17 at 17.11.53 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  11. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,936
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    It is 30 km more along the river before the road heads north. Almost all of this is unpaved and there are long stretches of deep gravel they have dumped on the road and a fair amount of sand. The rest is terrible wrist breaking wash board.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-134 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-135 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-136 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-137 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
  12. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,936
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    When we head north off the river and the Afghan border the fist section is 6 tight, steep, rocky off camber switchbacks, but then the road surface is mostly firm going up into the mountains. There are just a few short sandy sections to contend with.

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-139 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-138 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-141 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-142 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-143 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
  13. everready

    everready Stuck in Ohio....Ugh!!!

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    Jul 1, 2013
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    Epic!
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  14. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    Feb 19, 2011
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    3,936
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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    We came upon a huge waterfall and there were 8 cyclists and Jo in a truck. We had a nice rest and talked to the other traveler. We gave 2 of the girls some candy bars and food as they had run out of food except pasta and ketchup. (There is nothing for at least 40 km where there is a small village and then nowhere else until you reach Murgab in 200 km).

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-147 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-144 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  15. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    Feb 19, 2011
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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    There continues to be a good gravel road until you drop back into the valley near the next river, where there is a lot of wash board and sand. This makes for slow and bone shaking riding.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-148 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-145 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-146 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-151 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-153 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
  16. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    Feb 19, 2011
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    3,936
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    We did however see some Bactrian camels just across the river in Afghanistan.

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-154 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    At 1230 we arrived to the next turn in the road this is where we meet the cross road to connect back to the 41. This is 100 km from the pavement and passes over 4300m. There is a military camp here at Khargush and a check point to register your passport and GBAO permit. We discussed stopping to cook something, but it was very windy and so we pressed on.

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-155 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-156 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-157 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-158 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-159 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-160 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-160 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
  17. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    Feb 19, 2011
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    3,936
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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    The road rises, but between there rises are plains that are either gravel washboard or sand roads. This is getting to be a very tiring day.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-162 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab-23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-164 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab-24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab-25 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-165 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-166 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
  18. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

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    Feb 19, 2011
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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
  19. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
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    3,936
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    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    We finally used our spare gas to top us up, but Trevor did not have any and the only village we have seen all day is 160 km from Murgab was at 4000m and he drove around and asked for Benzene. While we were waiting for him some local ladies came to talk to us. They asked where we had come from and when we said the Wakhan valley. They said that road is terrible! They then of course offered us tea. There are a lot of very cool looking yurts. Trevor did not have to look very hard for gas as the first guy he asked said i will take you to the gas guy. He siphoned out 4 litres from a big drum for 32 Somoni (3.60$US).

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-181 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-179 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-178 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-180 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-182 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-183 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
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  20. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,936
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    Leaving the mountain again there was another plain about 30 km from the 41. It was very painful washboard and sandy road. Orvar managed to keep upright, but Sara had one spectacular crash in some very deep sand. This unfortunately did torque the lid of her right pannier. We managed to force it back and get the locks closed and the seal signed up, but it will need some professional help. The rest of the box is perfect and there is no problems with the welds or rivets. The last 15 km to the 41 mentally took forever with the washboard and sand.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
    It was awesome to finally hit the paved road after 4 days and this particularly challenging one.

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-174 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]

    It is a paved road, but very bumpy with dips and heaves. We have 130 km to Murgab and we finally arrived there after 6. The views on the way are incredible and you are at 4000 m until the town, which is at 3600. Just after we hit the pavement we met this Korean guy who had ridden across Russia and to Tajikistan. We warned him that his bike was not for the Wakhan Valley road.

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-175 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-176 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-177 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab-29 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab-30 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab-31 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr


    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab-32 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab-34 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr