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Finding Freedom...World Wide Ride

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by BcDano, Jul 19, 2012.

  1. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    The last 80 km seemed to take forever. We stopped a lot for photos. Orvar was bitten in the face by a wasp and it really started to swell. He had to take a Benadryl it was getting so bad. 50 km from our destination we had to stop as Orvar getting drowsy and we were all starved. We broke into the emergency tuna and boiled up some noodles in Trevor's jet boil. Lunch after 5 ADV style.

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-184 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-185 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-192 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-193 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-194 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-195 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-186 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-187 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-188 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-189 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-196 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-198 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
  2. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    The last part we just booked it as the sun was very low. There is a military check point 5 km from the hotel. Murgab town is really in the middle of nowhere.

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-199 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab-35 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-200 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-202 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-201 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-203 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    Murgab looks like something you would see in Star wars. There is of course no wifi and there is power only by generator from 7 am to 11. We pulled into the only hotel in town and got rooms for 30$ including breakfast. We are all bagged and suffering a bit from the altitude as last night were at 2500 m and today at 3600. There are shared cooed showers, which makes things interesting. They have a restaurant here and luckily a local guide translated for us. There is lots of beer but none is cold and so we settled on a bottle on Tajik “Cognac” for 4$. Its for shooting only and was terrible.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Murgab-36 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
  3. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    marior97 likes this.
  4. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    Dan was up early to work on the bikes (clean the chains, tighten all the bits shaken loose this week, and inspect in general). This is when we find 4 inch nail #2 in Sara’s rear tire!!! Unreal no flats in 5 years and 2 in 2 weeks. We plugged it and hoped for the best. We will need to take the tire off and patch /Vulcanize it when we get back to civilization.

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-204 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-211 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-209 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
    marior97 and MaNDan like this.
  5. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
  6. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
  7. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    The road continues to be paved and rise until just before the first pass at Ak Baital (70.9 km). Dan decided to do a little off off road riding and hill climbing to 4644 m. Lucky he did not get stuck in the sand.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Sary-Tash-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-217 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-218 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-221 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Sary-Tash-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-219 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
  8. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    Here the road goes to dirt and rises to the pass at 4655 m.

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-223 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    On the down side of the summit the road gets pretty bad. The washboard is horrible and bone shattering. It was so bad Trevor’s mirror actually broke off while he was riding.

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-224 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-225 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Sary-Tash-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    In fact cars have left the road and created a side road which though muddy in spots is much smoother. There is some deeper gravel to contend with too.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Sary-Tash-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
  9. DavidM1

    DavidM1 Unicorn hunting

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2013
    Oddometer:
    1,832
    Location:
    UK
    Wow, I didn't realise there was so little air at that altitude.
    Saralou likes this.
  10. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    Yes you can really feel it. Mild constant headache and try exerting yourself and you really feel it.
  11. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    A little slide show of the Pamir Highway and Wahkan valley


    marior97 and MaNDan like this.
  12. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    We are headed to the border and no civilization in sight. There is then a section of paved road for about 20 km and a few far scattered homes and yurts. This fence is marking the deputed zone with China and it goes on forever.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Sary-Tash-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Sary-Tash-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-226 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-228 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-229 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-230 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-232 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
    marior97 and SavannahCapt like this.
  13. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    The pavement ends again before the road rises up to the second pass and the washboard combined with the gale force winds made for a challenge for about 10 km.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Sary-Tash-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir-233 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    Finally the road heads up again and the mud surface is smoother and firm.

    [​IMG]Tajik Pamir by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Kyrgy Border-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Kyrgy Border-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Kyrgy Border-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
    marior97, MaNDan and SavannahCapt like this.
  14. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    The approach to the Tajikistan border is huge mud ruts from trucks. It would be a nightmare here in the rain. You stop at the first gate and hand your customs declaration to the agent and then “you can go”. We figured we needed an exit passport stamp so we kept going past the construction site to a small office to get it. Then they raise the gate to “no man’s land”.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Sary-Tash-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Sary-Tash-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Kyrgy Border-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
    marior97, MaNDan and SavannahCapt like this.
  15. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
  16. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    The clay/mud road is firm if a bit rough. There are a number of switchback as well. You go about 20 km to the next border for Krygyzstan. We saw about 15 bikes on a Polish tour headed up the hill at 330 pm. Not sure where they expect to get to this late in the day.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Sary-Tash-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Kyrgy Border-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Sary-Tash-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Kyrgy Border-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajik Kyrgy Border-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Sary-Tash-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Sary-Tash-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
  17. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    Here you stop at passport control and the agent asks for your passport and registration. Very friendly and professional. After this you go 200 m to customs. Here they want the same info and 10$ for customs clearance. Krygyzstan , Kazakstan, and Russia are a customs zone and we are now cleared for all 3 and we have 2 months.

    The road from the border is paved is a bit pot holed and we have just 25 km to Sary-Tash. Some kids had blocked the road with donkeys and clearly wanted a toll to pass, but there were one donkey short of a barricade.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Sary-Tash-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Kyrgy_ by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
  18. SavannahCapt

    SavannahCapt Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,146
    Location:
    SE Georgia
    "one donkey short of a barricade"
    Well it was almost a good plan. :lol2 I can't tell you how many times that has been my problem.:imaposer
    MaNDan and Saralou like this.
  19. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    We rolled into the “town” at about 5 and there arrived to the one hotel in the GPS.

    [​IMG]Kyrgy_-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
    [​IMG]Kyrgy_-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Kyrgy_-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    Hotel is a loose term it is one room with a dais and you supply your own bedding. There is an outhouse and no shower. While Trevor was inside checking it out a couple walked up and asked if he was travelling with Dan and Sara! This is Graham and Katrina Perkins who we have been following as they came west across Asia on their Africa twin. There had seen the bikes come into town from their hostel nearby.

    [​IMG]Tajikistan Sary-Tash-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Kyrgy_-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Kyrgy_-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    We were not keen on either of these 2 options. A guy rolled up in a car and said he was a tour operator and had a house for rent. We followed him out of town, across a cow field to a house with no running water, an outhouse and a single room again. Ah NO.

    We then wound our way father thru the fields and the village back roads to the main highway where we had seen a restaurant and hotel. Very nice family. There had room with no beds, but they sleep on several layers of mats and gave us pillows and duvets. There is of course only outhouses, but they have running water. The owner is the chef and his wife the manager and she speaks English. She arranged for me to have a shower at a friends house about 150 m away. This was a hot steamy tiled room with a cement floor and a drain. There is a huge boiler at one side and a barrel of cold water to mix in for the best pour over shower ever! The price was right too. 15$ each for room, dinner, and breakfast. They also had wifi at least to check in after 4 days off line.

    [​IMG]Kyrgy_-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Kyrgy_-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Kyrgy_-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Kyrgy_-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
  20. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.

    Well I always did say 1 boy 1 brain, 2 boys 1/2 a brain, 3 boys No brains at all :)
    dwj - Donnie and MaNDan like this.