Finding Freedom...World Wide Ride

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by BcDano, Jul 19, 2012.

  1. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    Daniels bike on the way to Rosario cut out a few times. Now this is very disconcerting on our way south to isolated territory. Well on the way in from the race it was worse in the heat. He diagnosed the fuel pump as the issue, which is a known problem with the 800 GS. Well today we are to leave Rosario and since yesterday was Sunday we still have no fuel pump. We really did not want to go to BMW and pay a fortune if they had the part at all. We stopped at the Fussetti Honda dealership 2 blocks from our hotel to ask advice. Daniel knew a Bosh pump would work. Germán was super helpful and even programmed the GPS with the intersection of the auto parts dealership for us. He also offered to install the pump for us if we could get it.



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    DSC00358 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

    Today it is hot and in the 15 blocks to the parts place Dan’s bike died 6 times, so now we were really desperate. Arriving at 1230 at Bolita Auto Supply, but they were closed for siesta, but luckily George was still inside. He came out to ask us what we needed. Dan explained we needed a Bosh pump or bomba. By just looking at the part number we had he said he had just what we needed a Delphe universal pump with all the extra bits and for a very reasonable price. What a nice family!

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    DSC00339 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

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    Now back to HONDA!!! Germán quickly and very carefully repaired the bike. The screen had come off the pump so it was sucking in dirt. He did this on his lunch hour and then felt bad he had to charge us for the 1- hour service minimum (380 Pesos) . We were so thankful to him!!! These are honest guys here who are really willing to help you out.

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    DSC00347 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

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    By 2 pm we were done, but it was now 37 degrees and we were sweating in our suits. We drove on the secondary roads to the south and west and ended up in at 126 km in Melincue for the night and opted for a casino hotel with good air con, secure parking and a restaurant.

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  2. QCRider

    QCRider Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2012
    Oddometer:
    105
    Location:
    Costa Rica
    Hi Sara,

    I'm really enjoying all the pictures, either you have a magic camera, or you have a fine eye for composition! :deal Just curious, are you using the NEX most of the time, or the Olympus?

    How did Dan like his new Dually during the night ride? I just put a set on my GSA (amber color), but I haven't been able to really test it yet. I'm on the side line for now with a broken bone in my right hand. Nothing too major, but need to be patient. I'm hoping to be back in the saddle in time for the GS Challenge coming up at the end of the month here in CR. :clap (nb: don't tell my doc, but I'm planning to do it regardless :evil )

    I hope that the new fuel pump will fix the issues on Dan's bike. Ironically, BMW just issued a recall for fuel pump but on 1200s & 1600s - no 800s in the list from what I can see.

    Safe travels!
  3. dougwi

    dougwi n00b

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2011
    Oddometer:
    9
    Location:
    Toronto, Ontario
    Hey Guys,
    I am interested in what you tend to pack in the tubes you have on your back racks. What size of tubes are they? They look useful.
    Enjoying the report.
    Doug
  4. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    Day to day on the road we use the Sony cybershot AVCHD. in good light it equals the NEX 7. if we are out to see sights we take both usually.

    The new lights are awesome! Now very few oncoming vehicles pull out into our lane in the daytime. They were great at night in the rally, but we try never to drive at night otherwise.

    The pump was a easy cheap fix we were lucky.

    I hope you heal fast. tape it up maybe?

    Cheers

    sp
  5. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    Daniel made them from 6 1/2 inch PVC pipe and well caps. We have a plummer friend who gave us the parts so free tool tubes are always a great thing. Dan has 2 bike covers in his and I have extra tie downs and both of our rapid fire heated jackets. The well caps lock and are totally watertight. The other nice thing is they keep the Ortlib bags from falling off the back with out needing to really crank down on the rock straps.

    Sara
  6. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    The morning was 35 already when we left and headed south towards San Raphael. We made our way to the half waypoint at 470 km at Villa Mercedes where we found a small hotel near the highway exit. We had stopped at a truck stop for a huge grilled lunch so ended up with just a sandwich at the gas station for dinner.

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    Screen Shot 2014-01-11 at 6.13.40 PM by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

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    malangue mercedes 30 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

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    On the way to San raphael we took the 144 to the south of San Luis, but turned back after the sign said no gas for 250 km. This was lucky as we met Enrique and Paulina from Brazil and Sophie from Germany at the gas station.

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    Screen Shot 2014-01-11 at 6.17.47 PM by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

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    san raphael 5 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

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    Arriving in San Raphael after 371 km we found a hotel just off the main park with a great parking lot and very quiet rooms.

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    san raphael 15 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

    There is also a great hot dog place on the corner with VERY cold beer.

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    san raphael 8 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

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    We did a bit of a walk around town to see if we could find a cambio office with guys outside making blackmarket exchange. We found the office, but no “hombres”. Asking the manager of the hotel was the best idea. He directed us just around the corner to the “Doctor’s office” and he called ahead to say we were coming. This guy is doing big business in buying USD$. He gave us 10.3 to 1! We were very happy and like the IKEA ad Dan came out and said, “Start the car”.

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    san raphael 17 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr
  7. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    Leaving town there was evidence of the recent Dakar visit. We headed south to find the famed Ruta 40. But with the late start today we ended up just going 187 km in Malargue and finding a small hotel just off the highway exit.

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    Screen Shot 2014-01-11 at 6.19.11 PM
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    chol malal 1
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    Now the challenge begins for the RUTA 40. We just had 333km to get to Chos Malal right….

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    Screen Shot 2014-01-11 at 6.20.58 PM
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    The wind here is legendary and there were some pretty strong gusts at times. In typical new to the 40 fashion Dan stopped at the sign to get a photo, I stopped behind him and was promptly blow over by a gust of wind. Dan got off his bike to help me get mine up and while doing that his bike was blow off the stand. Ahh lesson learned. No stopping on the roadside.


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    chol malal 4
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    The road south from here has a bit of construction, but there are two large sections that are not yet paved or maintained. Most of this is good dirt or gravel road, but there are a few parts with deep gravel and sand. For Daniel this is no challenge, but for me it was a mental and physical one. I managed with “more gas and speed”, but was glad to finally see pavement again. Luckily in the worst parts of the road we had little wind.


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    chol malal 11
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    The wind did finally break enough for a photo op.

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    I stopped feeling sorry for myself when we saw a ton of these guys! The one pushing his bike in the deep gravel was my hero.


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    junin de los andes 7
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    We finally pulled into Chos Malal after only 333 km at 730 pm tired and sore. There is one restaurant in town and it was not open today. Luckily the grocery store was still open.
  8. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    Lining up for gas in the morning we noted the sign that says they don’t sell you gas unless you re wearing a helmet.

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    chol malal 34 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


    What a difference a day makes. Today it was 420 km of good paved road and almost no wind. The scenery was much nicer and we could stop for pictures of the Volcan Lanin.


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    just joking!

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    Arriving in Zapala at the half way mark we found the great La Imperial bakery café next the gas station.



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    junin de los andes 8 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

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    There were some police checks, but only 1 stopped us to record our passport numbers.

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    junin de los andes 2 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

    Driving into Junin de Los Andes we see gas and got gas, which is the rule down here and added our sticker to the collection.

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    junin de los andes 31 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr
  9. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    The drive on the 7 lakes route is a must do! They have actually renamed the old highway 231 going from Junin de los Andes to Bariloche via Villa la Angostura the ruta 40 to make it look like more of the 40 is paved (signs say ruta 40 ex ruta 231).

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    The 235 km is paved except about 25 km of very good gravel road in the middle, but with all the stops (and Saturday summer traffic) it takes about 5 hours.

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    san carlos de bariloche 3
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    On the way to Bariloche there are a couple of towns that make you think you are in Sun Valley, Idaho.

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    san carlos de bariloche 4
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    The drive around the lake into San Carlos de Bariloche is stunning. This is a tourist town, where there is a chocolate shop in every block. We had a couple of down days here to rest up on the way south.

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    san carlos de bariloche 13
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    Walking along the lakeshore we came across the teleferico so took a ride up.

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    We had the best ice cream we have ever eaten here in Rapanui in Bariloche. This is the line up at midnight.

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  10. decodent

    decodent CyberGypsy

    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,421
    Location:
    Marin County, CA & Ketchum, ID
    The area with all the lakes looks a lot like the area around Nelson, B.C. And you're right about Sun Valley - I lived there for 20 years, and that town you showed has a similar feel to it.

    Wow, so when are you planning to complete the ride? Seems like you're getting close to the end of your journey.

    As always, appreciating your thorough documenting of the trip!
  11. romafras

    romafras world traveler

    Joined:
    May 10, 2009
    Oddometer:
    227
    Great meeting you in El Calafate. Keep us posted on your progress.
    Cheers.
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  12. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    We will be in Ushuaia Jan 26! But that is the end of the north in NA to south in SA, but not the end of the adventure. We will head north up the Caretera Austral in Chile. We have to see Peru and Bolivia and Brazil still in SA!


    Sara
  13. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    Yes and Likewise. We have sketchy internet here in El Chelten, but I will forward the info to Mateo. Funny I got your blog post in my email shortly after we met you at the gas station. Thanks for the picture! We have you down to contact before we head north again to pump you for info. Cheers.

    Sara & Daniel
  14. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    The day started with almost no line at the gas station unlike yesterday, a bit cool at 13 degrees, but sunny.

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    san carlos de bariloche 52 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

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    san carlos de bariloche 53 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

    There was almost no wind today and when there was it was 80% at our back!!! We kept south until Esquel and got gas again with almost no line. The old ruta 40 goes south from here but reports of very bad road conditions there kept us south on the “ruta 40” to Gobernador Costa, Chubut Province at 444 km where there was finally a hotel and a very long line for gas.

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    Setting out early we were braced for wind and gravel today. About 100 km south there is about 5 km of gravel that is a bit deeper in spots, but no real issue. The Desvio near Rio Mayo is good road but can be tricky when the wind is gusting, the gravel is deeper, and there is oncoming traffic. We were glad to see it was only about 40 km and not the entire 135 we had left to get to Perito Moreno.

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    We met these three Argentinean guys on the gravel driving with street tires!

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    DSC00442 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

    The last 60 km the wind was WOW strong. It was pressing our helmets so hard on one side it was painful. The shelter at the gas station was just enough to keep the bikes from being blown over on the stands. Luckily the hotel had 1 room left and a courtyard to store the bikes. Walking down the street to the laundry was even a challenge.
  15. sarelp

    sarelp Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2008
    Oddometer:
    138
    Location:
    Southern Indiana
    Very nice report !! Enjoy your trip, it's very cold up here in the states.
  16. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    Thanks. We met some Germans today who turned back from Ushuaia at Punta Arenas about 350 km away because of the cold. We are glad we splurged on heated jackets.


    Sara
  17. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    We have had a 2 -year friendship with Clive from Toronto, but we have yet to meet outside of skype. He is one of those guys who knows everyone. He has been very helpful with places to stay and his friend in Argentina brokered the almost impossible to get mandatory bike insurance for us. He of course has a connection in Ushuaia who is a biker who will store our bikes for 2 weeks. He is headed north to la Falda from Ushuaia so the only place we can meet him before he heads out of South America is to go east to the 3 on a bit of a detour.

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    On the way to Fitz Roy we had a nice sunny day with the wind at our backs. We spotted several herds of Vicuna (a wild relative of the llama) and several flocks of flightless Rhea. We also came across a few gauchos out on the range.

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    Dan trying to get the picture involves some off roading.

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    They have the funniest sign here stating the obvious. At the bottom of every hill the sign says hill and at the top “you guessed it” it says down hill!

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    Since we left on our adventure on June 22, 2012 everyday people have been asking us where we are going. When we say Ushuaia the reply is always “ Wow that is a very long way”’ but today at the YPF when I answered the gas attendants question his reply was “ you are almost there!”

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    Arriving in Fitz Roy after 310 km we did find the 2 places to stay listed on base camp and opted for the one on the north side of town as it looked better and was a block from the only restaurant in town. Clive had a lot longer ride from El Califate and finally showed up at 7 pm. After a good dinner, lots of great stories, and 3 bottles of wine we did not get and early start in the morning.

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  18. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    Heading south on the 3 we again had almost no gusting wind issues. There were more problems with drivers passing too close on our left so you get sucked over towards them when the wind is blocked. There were again tons of Vicuna and Rhea on the side of the road. It’s funny on the isolated parts of the 40 we saw no wildlife, but here they are everywhere.

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    Screen Shot 2014-01-16 at 5.25.24 PM by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

    The next town south is Puerto San Julian, which has been visited by Magellan in 1520, Drake in 1578, and Darwin on the Beagle with Captain Fit Roy in 1834. It is a huge natural harbor. It was strategic in the 1982 Falkland’s war as it is one of the nearest points of land to the islands and was used as a base by the Argentine Air Force. On the waterfront there is a replica of Magellan’s ship the Victoria, which was the first to circumnavigate the earth.

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    Screen Shot 2014-01-16 at 5.27.51 PM by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

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    Now for a good Argentinean steak for lunch.

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    DSC00472 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

    Having a siesta late in the afternoon we heard a bike start up outside. Dan says “ that’s an 800!” He looked out and sure enough it was a bike from Ontario. Daniel went outside to say hi. As he walked up to the guy he said “ Hi Dan”! Daniel was looking very confused when Wei replied, “ I know Sara”. It is so funny how you meet people by pure chance. Wei had been to two places already where there were no rooms, and he drove further into town and ended up meeting us! If you want great advice on where to eat and what to order check out his blog.


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    DSC00473 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr
  19. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    We were making for El Calafate and decided with the wind getting stronger today we would go on the paved road and not the 230 km of gravel of the highway 9. The first stage was to go south to Rio Gallegos.

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    rio gellagos 1 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

    There are several spots on the way where you can see flamingos and other birds. The wind was again not too bad today, strong but not gusting. There were a few sprinkles of rain as well. We were very thankful for our heated jackets today, as the temperature was 10 degrees.

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    The big thing of the day however was seeing the first road sign to Ushuaia!


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    We saw a ton of bikes today, but not as many as at the first gas station in town. The rain really started by 4, but we were tucked into a small hotel by then.

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    rio gellagos 7 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr
  20. Saralou

    Saralou Worldwide Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,932
    Location:
    July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
    Getting up the next morning the wind was already stronger than yesterday. The first 80 km west it was strong, but not gusting. Most of the way it was manageable. There was only the last 45 km to El Calafate where it was very strong, but with minimal gusting.


    [​IMG]Screen Shot 2016-03-18 at 11.17.27 PM by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

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    el calefate 4
    by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

    They have these silly wind blown palm tree signs here. Like Wei said, “ There are not even trees here let alone palm trees!”


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    el calefate 2
    by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

    Stopping halfway at the only gas station where there was a pretty long line, but at least there was gas unlike when Trevor was here.


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    el calafate 2
    by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


    There was again a lot of bike today heading east and south to Ushuaia.


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    by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


    There is an amazing view spot of the glacial Lake Argentinio on the way into the city.


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    by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

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    by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

    We have a great view from our place as well.

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    by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

    On the way into town for lunch we stopped for gas and I spotted a KTM with a British Colombia plate. It was actually Roberto and his friend Mateo from Italy. I have actually followed their blog as well.

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    el calafate 12
    by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


    http://mototravellers.com/first-segment-of-our-trip-around-the-world/


    We had diner at a place recommended by Wei and enjoyed some great lamb and steak Daniel’s favorite Argentinean wine.

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    el calafate 19
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    by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

    One of the things we have been looking forward to since we left home was seeing the glacier at Perito Moreno. It is a 80 km drive from town along several lakes and snow topped mountains.


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    by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

    You hit the gate to the national park about 30 km before the glacier.

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    by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

    There are several view spots along the way, but save your battery in the cold for the viewing decks.

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    by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

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    by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

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    by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


    The glacier is 5 km wide at the end and 14 km long.


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    by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

    We did not have a great day with clouds and some rain, but it was still spectacular. The cracking of the ice preceded large pieces falling off. With huge booms when they hit the water.

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    by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

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    by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

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    by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


    On the way back we headed to the port at Punta Bandera to check it out. WOW was there some wind there! You could barely stand up.


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    by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

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    by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr