Flywheel removal - crankshaft end play

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by ali eken, Jun 17, 2019.

  1. ali eken

    ali eken n00b

    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2019
    Oddometer:
    5
    Location:
    Samsun
    Measured the crank end-play today with the shim in place. Here is my setup.

    endplay.jpg

    The end-play is under/min with 0.04 mm. Applied considerable force on the flywheel back and forth.

    I also found in my Clymer manual today that there is a wear limit on the thrust washers which is 0.20 mm less than the minimum washer thickness. For example, if a red washer with 2.48-2.53 wears down to 2.28, shop manual suggests a replacement.

    Now having this 0.04 mm end-play with the 0.15 mm shim installed if I go with grinding, the outer thrust washer requires at least 0.2 mm grind which will reduce it down to the min service limit. However, the min limit on the thrust washer probably controls the friction surface of the washer so I will try to have the washer ground on the back surface, if this does not work I need to get the crankshaft out since I don't feel like using that shim in any case.

    Thanks everyone for all the replies.
    ali
    #21
    ME 109 likes this.
  2. robtg

    robtg Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,243
    Location:
    san jose
    You can turn the thrust brg. easily and with accuracy on a lathe with a finish better than the factory. The back needs to be trued up first as it is just a stamping.
    The manual shows .002" variation in the size of the bearing. I can get it within .0002" easily with a better finish. Let me know if you want to know how to hold
    it accuratly in the lathe while machining.
    #22
  3. robtg

    robtg Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,243
    Location:
    san jose
    If your lathe has any end float it is either really worn out or you don't know how to adjust the spindle bearings. The pressure to cut 1 or 2 thousants is
    really nothing with a sharp tool. Have you ever done this before? Doesn't seem like it. The steel backing on them is just a stamping and not very accurate.
    The factory shop manual shows a variation of .002" for each color code.
    #23
  4. ali eken

    ali eken n00b

    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2019
    Oddometer:
    5
    Location:
    Samsun
    Thanks robtg. Unfortunately, I don't have a lathe. I need to take it to a machine shop.

    ali
    #24
  5. kcoralj

    kcoralj Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2016
    Oddometer:
    237
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    Well of course it's worn out, it's 80 years old and who knows what it's been through before I got it.
    I suppose I could tighten up the thrust bearing or preload it with the tailstock and maybe glue the work to a faceplate but it's a hell of a lot easier just to take it to work and surface grind it.
    I determined my lathe wasn't ideal for that type of work when I made a wheel bearing shim.
    #25