Back in the '70s, I used to build model airplanes. There was a series of publications from RCM (Radio Controlled Modeler) called "For What It's Worth" which contained simple ideas and hints/tricks on how to build airplanes (e.g., How to modify clothes pegs for use as small clamps, etc.). In this thread I'd like to draw on your wrenching/garage/trail fix/etc. experience as it applies to trials bikes (or [dirt] bikes in general). I suggest that we don't discuss topics (unless there's confusion and clarification is required). Rather, just make a post and others can determine "What It's Worth". >>> Mods to help save a GG rear fender <<< To reduce the chance of breaking the rear fender of my '08 TXT, I did the following: - I used a Dremel/grinding tool to remove the lip on the underside of the fender which normally engages the seat "body". - I replaced the metal fastener which secures the fender to the seat body with a nylon fastener. These fastness break/shear very easily. - Rather than use two separate small tie-wraps to secure the fender to the seat body I use one large tie-wrap between the same two holes so that I make use of the thicker/stronger part of the fender. I found that when I used just the outer edge of the fender the material would rip. And now only one tie-wrap has to break rather than two in order to save the fender. I actually use two low-strength tie-wraps "in series" to build a long/low-strength tie-wrap. The basic idea is to have a system whose pieces will break before the fender. >>> How to keep your shift lever from falling off your GG <<< The shift shaft on my '08 TXT300 is not notched to retain the lever clamping bolt. As a result, the lever can fall off if the bolt backs out. And it's too easy to over-tighten the (steel) bolt and strip the threads in the (aluminum) lever in order to get things tight. So to avoid this I've had good success with using Loctite 680 "Retaining Compound". It's an anaerobic (I think that's what it's called) "glue" which is normally used to hold loose bearings, etc. But it works well to hold the shift lever in place. Like most products of this type, a little heat is usually required when it's time to disassemble. >>> Increase grip/friction on your clutch and brake levers <<< I wrap my levers in waterproof hockey stick grip tape to increase the friction between my gloves and the levers. >>> Cutting the perfect hole in your grips for bar-ends <<< Just mount your grips and then (gently) use a hammer to pound on the grip end; the bar end will eventually cut/weaken the grip and the plug will drop-out leaving the perfectly sized hole. >>> Making it easier to re-use paper gaskets <<< I use another Loctite product - an assembly compound called "Anti-Seize" - so that I can more easily remove - and hopefully reuse - gaskets like those used on the clutch cover and flywheel cover. The compound is like a metallic grease and helps to keep the gaskets from sticking to the surfaces being sealed. Note: The compound seems to spread everywhere even when applying the thinnest of layers, so best to wear disposable "surgeon" gloves. Anti-Seize is also what I use when reassembling the bolts in the cylinder and head due to the possibility of a head o-ring leak and the chance of coolant seeping into the threads and making bolt removal "stressful". >>> Use skid plate foam to minimize crud build-up between the skid plate and case <<< I wedge a small chunk of skid plate foam (obtained from the local dirt bike shop) between the engine case and skid plate immediately below the header/engine junction; the foam keeps the mud that's thrown from the front wheel from flowing under the engine between it and the skid plate. I think the engine should then run a bit cooler. >>> Use plumber's Teflon tape to prevent weeping on the gas tank outlet <<< On my GGs the gas petcock threads onto the tank outlet and is sealed by an o-ring. I've always had limited success with the o-ring alone. But I do get a good final seal if in addition to the o-ring I use plumber's Teflon tape on the threads of the tank. So far the Teflon does not appear to be affected by the gas.