This is a bit of a guide that can be used for any fork. I was going to add pics, but i think anyone reading this will be able to understand what I am trying to explain. It is a bit involved and requires a bit of double handling, but the results could be certainly worth while. I have done this with my bikes, and I think it works well. To start off with, check fork tubes for straightness then re-assemble forks only with bushes in place, no seals or dust seal. For USD forks, can put dust seal and oil seal on inner tube, don't locate them home at this time. Check for any excess play in fork bushes by trying to move legs around. It is not a common practice, and i haven't used it, but people have shimmed the slide bush with shim stock or feeler gauges. Start very thin, 0.001" or 0.025mm thin. Can try it, there has been success with this in the past, but is a fine line. You don't want to have so little bush/tube clearance that it causes binding. Install fork internals, minus spring and put fork cap on as though it was a final assemble. Put a fork in triple clamps and tighten to spec, a lot of debate goes into what the right specs for clamps are, I don't care what you use, I just know what i use. I start with left fork first. Put other fork in, clamp should have enough grab too hold in place. There are 2 things we are trying too achieve here. Check for fork bind and axle bind. First, adjust the height of last installed fork leg, so the axle spins freely inside its own clamp area. If axle is bent, no amount of aligning will fix, ensure it is straight. When axle is spinning freely, torque up triple clamp bolts to spec. There may be the slightest height difference at top of clamps between the fork legs, this is less important than ensuring axle is properly aligned. Nip up a clamp bolt on axle to hold in place. Move forks through stoke a couple of times to feel for binding if none your probably all good. Next, push fork legs up through travel to the top and release. They should lower under they're own weight, if not we may have a binding issue. Process of elimination, start with lower clamp bolt torque. Loosen lower bolts off totally and try again. If this sorts it, then we know bolts are too tight. I have largely always used stock specs, but you may find you need to drop bolt torque down considerably. I leave the numbers you choose up to you. This info here really only relevant to USD forks, but next bit useful for all types. Got bolt torque sorted, tube alignment may be the issue. Two things that can effect, triple clamp alignment and bent tubes. Bent tubes is fairly unlikely. Fork tubes are made very well, but still could be defects during manufacture that could cause binding. You may need to loosen off top triple clamp and stem nut and re-install fork legs to ensure it is all straight. You can use a flat/ straight edge across the fork tubes to check for alignment, if the flat edge rocks on a diagonal axis, it is out of whack. If clamps and forks are aligned, loosen off triple clamps for one fork tube and rotate 90 degrees, continue with the drop test and rotation of tube until they lower by themselves. At the end of this you will need to leave some marks so you can align everything up. Permanent marker or paint pen will do. Leave some marks on triple clamps and fork tubes. Now you can remove forks, disassemble again if required and install seals if they're not on inner tube already, ( USD forks), add springs and oil, then reinstall. Go through the motions for the axle alignment again, but if you put marks on everything, it should be pretty right. Last step is to install front wheel. Most every bike has an axle clamp. Usually on right leg, sometimes both. Install front wheel, axle, brake calipers. Torque axle or axle nut to spec, and if there is a clamp on the left leg, tighten also. Take bike off stand, make sure you have pumped brakes if needed and hold front brake on and push down on forks a few times. This ensures fork is sitting where it wants to naturally, then tighten the right side clamp. If axle was aligned properly earlier, it will be pretty close, but do this step regardless. This may seem a bit involved, but after installing new bushes or seals, it may just be worth it. Modern forks are pretty well made, most of this just might be a time waste, unless you do it, you won't know. Hopefully it helps someone.