Several folks have asked for this... so I took a few pics yesterday when I serviced the XR forks. These same instructions will work for upside down forks (like the WP's on KTM's) with a couple of small caveats, which I'll get to at the end. I accept no blame for my terminology. Start by loosening the upper triple clamp pinch bolts and breaking the fork caps free while the fork is securely held by the lower triple clamp. I don't have a picture of this, as I dont' torque my fork caps tightly enough to require doing so... but if you haven't done the job before, start here. In any case, once you have broken the fork caps free, drop the forks out of the triples and loosen the top caps until the slider drops away, like this: Now, with the slider down just a bit, compress the fork spring and put a wrench on the nut atop the damping rod. On the XR, it's a 17mm. Your goal here is to spin the topcap (silver) off the top of the damping rod (darker). To that end, put a wrench on the topcap, and pull against the wrench on the damping rod, and you should be there... With the topcap off, you can now pull the spring out (along with any washers or spacers- on the XR, there is a loose washer that sits atop the spring). Set it all aside. Push the damping rod into the forks, and the oil pressure beneath will force out the adjusting rod (made that term up! but the purpose of this rod is to put pressure on the rebound stack at the bottom of the damping rod, depending on how far the external adjustment is screwed in...) Pull these two parts out and set aside. Now you're ready to drain. Simply turning the fork upside down will get rid of most of the oil volume, but not the oil you most wish to swap out, which is trapped in the damper chamber. To get rid of it all, you'll have to pump the damper rod, turn things right way up and then upside down again, etc. You know you're done when the damper rod falls down into the fork without slowing as it enters oil... Again, even if the oil in the main chamber looks pretty good, it doesn't get exchanged much with the oil in the depths of the damping stack. It's worth the time and effort to get every last bit out. If it's really dirty, consider flushing it with some brake parts cleaner, but make sure you let it dry long enough that none of the cleaner remains to contaminate the new fluid.