Form, function and comfort, a Frisco Chopper build

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by n8mandy, Sep 23, 2019.

  1. n8mandy

    n8mandy PadreN8

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    So, I'm going to take this:

    [​IMG]

    Into something like this:
    upload_2019-9-23_22-25-18.jpeg

    These are some of the original Frisco chops, but not exhibiting all of the mods that were often done.

    The Frisco Chop, originated in the Bay Area as a 1%er bike. They had narrow bars for "white lining;" lifted King Sportster or Peanut tanks for more range, having moved the petcock to the back, the filler to the top and and sometimes removing the channel to give those precious extra ounces; raised pegs and mild fork stretches, 2" or 4" over to gain clearance for corning and those sharp hill transitions.

    They were practical, not just about the look in the same way that later Choppers were.
    #1
  2. n8mandy

    n8mandy PadreN8

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    I'll also use it for touring. I'm not hardcore enough to ride it all day as is. I can't take 21 Days* to get to Chicago next year.

    So I will have to add some touring things for long rides that can be take off: windshield, highway pegs, bags, comfortable travel seat, etc...

    *See what I did there :lol3
    #2
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  3. 131unlimited

    131unlimited Been here awhile

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    Going to need to cut and rake the frame for it to look and sit right with 4" over fork tubes. 2" over you can get away with the stock rake.

    Had a '75 sporty with 4" over in front and lowered in the rear. 3.5 gall fatbobs with fabbed up mounts, Wideglide rear fender and a modified mustang seat from a superglide to get more lower back support for the long rides.

    You'll get close to the look your going for, but the new sporty frames just don't have the length, neck rake and overall layout needed to nail the way the old ones sat and rode.
    #3
  4. n8mandy

    n8mandy PadreN8

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    You're right, those do looked more raked out. I'll just be going with 2" over.

    I'd love to see pics.
    #4
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  5. villageidiot

    villageidiot Long timer Supporter

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    Don’t necessarily need 2” over tubes, trackerdie makes a 11” damper rod setup for the 39mm front end that you can then space down if you need depending on the stock damper rod length to get desired lift.

    cheaper than tubes, it’s $75 kit.
    #5
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  6. willis 2000

    willis 2000 neo-quixote

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    Longer damper rods would reduce stanchion overlap, longer tubes would be better.
    #6
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  7. villageidiot

    villageidiot Long timer Supporter

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    there’s PLENTY of stanchion overlap on the sportster and dyna.
    #7
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  8. 131unlimited

    131unlimited Been here awhile

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    Sorry no pics... Pls don't take this as 100% gold as it has been decades since I built my 75 sporty. The Newer sporty frames have a rake around 28 degrees. For 4" over having the rake set to 32 /33 degrees gives a good stance and decent handling for that kind of build. The 75 frame sat at 32 and it worked out really well for me, enough so that when I built my Superglide, I raked it to 33 and went 3" over on that bike as well.
    "Forks by Frank" always did me right for extended fork tubes at a good price. Best of luck with the build!
    #8
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  9. n8mandy

    n8mandy PadreN8

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    iron stock L.jpg

    iron stock Rt.jpg iron stock L.jpg iron stock Rt.jpg

    So here it is basically as I bought it. I just wanted to put in my own pics instead of the cycletrader ones.

    I did add a throttle lock and cramp buster for the trip.

    I titled the build thread "form, function and comfort" because I won't be making an exact replica of a classic Frisco, due to my need for comfort for 400 mile days (I did over 300 taking the "Italian Sportster" my Guzzi V9 out to Cowtown, CA and bringing the Sporty back.)
    #9
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  10. n8mandy

    n8mandy PadreN8

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    I was planning on putting it on a diet today, pulling the headlight eyebrow and the belt guard off. I didn't realize that the eyebrow actually was the bracket to hold on the headlight. I also did not have the big-a$$ torx necessary for taking the belt guard off.

    So, let's play spot the difference between the pics above and these. I was the only weight lost today:

    iron stock solo seat Lt side.jpg Iron stock solo seat R side.jpg
    #10
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  11. thebigman

    thebigman XR's all the way . Big Thumps or V-twins

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    I'll be along for the build .. good luck :thumb
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  12. n8mandy

    n8mandy PadreN8

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    Alright, another lesson learned: DON'T TRUST THE INTERNET.

    Oh, right I already knew that. Actually I should say to myself, "just be more selective with your research dummy, making sure that you are sure that it applies to your bike." Wow, I even talk to myself too much.

    I planned on putting my Biltwell Frisco bars this morning and after looking up info on them, read that the brake lines are long enough with some rerouting. That would be true of Sporty's that don't have the doohickey separating the lower brake line from the upper line.

    [​IMG]

    So this is what I ended up with: frisco fail.jpg

    Yup, exactly the same after I wasted my time removing the stock handlebars. I also could have saved that time if I had just taken a look at the brake line.

    Great, another delay. :doh
    #12
  13. yokesman

    yokesman Long timer

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    seen what a kevlar fanbelt would do to a bmw, taking out all the hoses, radiator. might want to leave the guard on if not only as a deflector.
    #13
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  14. n8mandy

    n8mandy PadreN8

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    How exactly does that work? I've never done any forks work.
    #14
  15. villageidiot

    villageidiot Long timer Supporter

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    forks out of triples, take spring caps loose, pull axle, take out bolts from bottom of fork leg lowers (holds the tip of the damper rods.

    pull forks apart, swap short rods for long rods.

    re assemble with new seals (bushings too if needed)

    refit springs, fill it required oil level.

    run it.


    I’m sure there’s a detailed step by step here somewhere, or on xlforum
    #15
  16. n8mandy

    n8mandy PadreN8

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    Geez, looking back at my question I didn't ask what I was thinking in my head at all. I meant to ask how many inches over would you get. If I'm not mistaken, the stock damper length is 9.5", so switching to 11" would get you 1.5", I was hoping for at least 2".

    Are there any other relatively inexpensive ways to get more. Is it possible to get 3" or even 4" without changing the fork tubes?
    #16
  17. villageidiot

    villageidiot Long timer Supporter

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    It all depends on what dampers you have in your bike. You could have 7” dampers in that thing.

    from the lowest dampers to 11” is significant, just gotta figure out what you’re working with as a baseline.
    #17
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  18. Bt10

    Bt10 Been here awhile

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    Are there upper fork tube cap extensions available?
    #18
  19. villageidiot

    villageidiot Long timer Supporter

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    fuck that noise
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  20. n8mandy

    n8mandy PadreN8

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    why's that?
    #20